The Stax Thread III
Jun 23, 2016 at 2:37 PM Post #9,106 of 25,560
   
Yes, with a bit of stretch. But it has slightly smaller internal volume than the 009 pads, smaller opening and higher, and changes the loading of the driver.
The 009 pads do work on the 007, but I would not put the 007 pads on the 009. IMHO the 009 pads are the best pads ever made for a Stax, and in general is one of the best pads available.
Also, it has perfect tuning for the 009. I have experimented a lot with various pad mods for the 009, and they have much less effect than on the 007 for instance.
Only if you cannot get 009 pad replacement you should try fitting the 007 pads on the 009.

Don't the 007 pads have that flat section for ear alignment, unlike the 009s?
 
Also I think the 007s are thicker at one end than the 009s, though the 009s are thicker at one end as well, just not as much.
 
I wonder wether Stax have designed this for sonic reasons?
 
Jun 23, 2016 at 4:20 PM Post #9,107 of 25,560
Don't the 007 pads have that flat section for ear alignment, unlike the 009s?

They do.
 
Also I think the 007s are thicker at one end than the 009s, though the 009s are thicker at one end as well, just not as much.

Thicker both in front and back.
 
I wonder wether Stax have designed this for sonic reasons?

Of course they did. They tend to do things with good sonic reasons :). And they designed the 009 pads for (updated) sonic reasons as well, discarding the spring idea, making the opening larger, and the pads flatter. In my experience with pads, these all change the sound in the same direction that I also like: more open, clearer, more spacious, more transparent. 
 
As far as pads go, IMHO the best designs are the HD800, then a big gap, then the 009, then come the rest. The Audeze pads I consider particularly bad sounding designs: too dark, too thick, too constrained. I wonder how an LCD3 would sound with the 009 pads...
 
Jun 23, 2016 at 11:55 PM Post #9,109 of 25,560
When installed, the 009 pads flaps are between 2 metallic disks that are held together by 6 screws and press the pad's leather flap between them. Between the outer metallic plate and the pads inner surface are the grills.

For disassembling the pads, first you need to get the cloth grill screen out. It has a reinforcement ring on the outer perimeter, and the cloth is tensioned on that. Just put your finger under the pad until you feel the edge of the grill, then bend you finger to bend the grill, until it comes out. It will bend in about 90 degrees but it's quite flexible and you can restore it later, many times.

When the grill is out, you see the metallic grid. You can try the headphones without the cloth grill. It will sound more open and more clear in the treble, but quantity will be too much.

With a finger slightly lift and pull away the pads. That will reveal the screws that hold the metallic disks together. Loosen the screws so that the disks come 2-4 mm apart.

Now put your finger under the pad, and pull it out until the circular flap comes out from between the two disks. Do that on the circumference and the pad is off.

After the pad is off, and you want to experiment with different pads, secure the screws again temporarily so that the 2 disks are not loose any more. For testing, it is enough to change the pads and then just press them against the driver and carefully put it on your head. It does sound slightly different when the pad is fully assembled, but it's really close and much better for testing than to assemble/disassemble the pads so many times.

To assemble, do the reverse steps: loosen the screws again so that the disks are 3-4 mm apart, then insert the pads's flap into the gap, going through the circumference. After it's on, pay attention to the orientation of the pads, and the position of the masking plastic strips in the bottom of the drivers where the opening for the cable is (you will see on the spot what I am talking about). After everything is in position, secure the screws, starting with one but don't tighten it yet, then secure the opposite side, and so on, jump always to the other side, just like when you are assembling a car wheel. This is to get the pressure even.

After the pad is on, reinsert the grill cloth. This is the most tricky part :). I usually lift the pads with one hand, and push one edge of the grill in place. Then I bend the grill and push the edge which is about 90-120 degrees from the previous spot. The remaining edge is badly bent by this time, but don't be afraid of just pushing it into place. It slides smoothly on the metallic grill to go under the pads. After it's pushed in, go around the circumference of the grill and even out the plastic reinforcement.
 
Jun 24, 2016 at 2:01 AM Post #9,110 of 25,560
Of course, if your Stax dealer changes the pads for free (charging only the price of pads), which I think the practice is, then the procedure above is not needed to be done by you -- unless you want to experiment with pad mods, which I don't recommend in the case of the 009. AFAIK you can only obtain a pad from a Stax dealer.
 
Jun 28, 2016 at 2:23 AM Post #9,114 of 25,560
I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this, but it seems like one of the only places to do so. Are the below Summit-Fi STAX headphones worth buying over something like the HD650? My friend and I went to an audio meet a couple of years ago and took turns listening to the SR-407 and SR-507. We were both impressed, but I definitely heard the "plastic" timbre people talk about. I've also heard claims of cheap components used in the amp units.
 
Anyway, I'm considering eventually buying either a Valhalla 2 and HD650 setup or a SR-407 and SRM-323S setup, but I'm afraid that I'll get the STAX and be disappointed with their ability to play a wide variety of music well. Are the claims that others have made true or just hate for STAX in general?
 
I'd appreciate any input if you guys don't mind.
 
Jun 28, 2016 at 4:54 AM Post #9,115 of 25,560
They definitely are. The STAX is the superior choice. But I would give the base set a try before committing to a 407 and larger amp. As is often the case with headphones, the more expensive options are not always the superior ones. It's a matter of taste.
 
Ironically, the 207 is the most balanced of the *07 series even though it's the cheapest. And you can always get some 507 pads if you want the top tier comfort and seal. Other older lambdas of note are stuff like the LNS, 404 (which you can convert to 404LE with 507 pads), original normal bias lambda, and a couple others not including derivatives like the sigma series or the closed series.
 
Other than the 323 which is a fine amp, the base unit 252 amp that comes in the 207 set is actually a good little amp as well, and can be improved markedly with a good diy power supply for cheap. Other nice common STAX amps include the old 717, 727 after feedback mod, T1 and SRM-1 if properly maintained, and even the ancient 10S/12S if you add in a modern probias board and socket. Then there's the fun of the pure DIY stuff that's a whole new level.
 
But basically, if you have experience with headphones, you know the drill. Listen, listen some more, listen with something you are intimately familiar with and compare. Then pick what you like best.
 
Jun 28, 2016 at 7:25 AM Post #9,116 of 25,560
  I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this, but it seems like one of the only places to do so. Are the below Summit-Fi STAX headphones worth buying over something like the HD650? My friend and I went to an audio meet a couple of years ago and took turns listening to the SR-407 and SR-507. We were both impressed, but I definitely heard the "plastic" timbre people talk about. I've also heard claims of cheap components used in the amp units.
 
Anyway, I'm considering eventually buying either a Valhalla 2 and HD650 setup or a SR-407 and SRM-323S setup, but I'm afraid that I'll get the STAX and be disappointed with their ability to play a wide variety of music well. Are the claims that others have made true or just hate for STAX in general?
 
I'd appreciate any input if you guys don't mind.

I think the 'issue' with the lower Stax models is they are at a low price point but are still very transparent (accurate in the higher registers), and if used with a similar budget source can reveal the weakness in that source especially a digital front end. IMO any of the Stax headphones are begging for a mid tier DAC as a starting point or it will not go well. Many other headphones (not all) can colour the sound and hide things, but with Stax headphones that is not going to happen.
 
I would say try and get a used 717 or a used 727 and mod it, and use a decent (smooth) DAC and you will should be happy with any of the '07 range and may want to then move up to the 007A and different amps. It depends if you get the Stax sound and get the bug. I did, and many on here as well. Good luck.
 
Jun 28, 2016 at 9:48 AM Post #9,118 of 25,560
  I think the 'issue' with the lower Stax models is they are at a low price point but are still very transparent (accurate in the higher registers), and if used with a similar budget source can reveal the weakness in that source especially a digital front end. IMO any of the Stax headphones are begging for a mid tier DAC as a starting point or it will not go well. Many other headphones (not all) can colour the sound and hide things, but with Stax headphones that is not going to happen.

 I agree with you. I just got my Yggy DAC. with my SR-009 I can't stop listening to music... its magic!
 
Jun 28, 2016 at 5:20 PM Post #9,120 of 25,560
  am I weird if I like the lambdas more than the omegas so far?

 
The airbow sr-sc-11 and 404le are really great sounding headphones. I could see how on a more budget oriented setup one would prefer the lambda's. You have to like the 007 for comfort though or you really are weird.
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