[pham]

There're 4 headphones and a new kid on the block... that can drive 'em all.

 

[Whitigir]

So much Dope!

 

[JayKay47]

There're 4 headphones and a new kid on the block... that can drive 'em all.

Sweet baby Jesus!!!

 

[Clean6eR]

hi,

i have a SRM-Xh which i plugged the wrong polarity into and now no sound comes out,

its a green pcb "PB-201 08438-00210" (no fuse or protection diode to replace that im aware of)

it has the red led on the front of the unit working but the two internal red LED's are not lit up.

i found the posts by "Tus-Chan" on the old thread who has the same issue and kevin gilmore and defqon offered help.

i followed that help and ordered two new mosfets (2sk940) and one new regulator (3524) also recapped the whole board.

i got the parts one after another, so i recapped it all to start and tested (no change) then i switched the mosfets out (both of them) no change and finally today just switched out the regulator and hoped it would all fire up, but alas it has not changed in anyway.

can anybody help me?

 

[Tinkerer]

Buy a parts tester and desolder and check the fets. That will tell you what's good or not. If you already replaced the mosfets and the thing is still not lighting up, you might have toasted some of the jfets too. Check the voltage on the bias supply while you're at it. If the amp is working but you aren't charging the diaphragm, you won't be getting any sound either.

Actually, you might just want to do a full rebuild for fun. I remember a bunch of the resistors being carbon film in there. Probably not more than $25 in parts to replace everything but the connectors and the transformer.

 

[aldavey]

Hi, I am in a similar boat. I have 007mk2 SZ3 that are only a few months old (USA warranty purchased from Yama originally) with channel imbalance/distortion in one ear. Does anyone know the email to reach out to stax japan to get the process rolling for a repair? I don't mind shipping them to japan if it will get them fixed!

Thanks in advance!

According to Stax website there is no direct email address for Stax Japan. They ask that you route any enquiry through your dealer or local distributor. Same for me here in Tokyo. I am sending my 009s back through the shop from where they were purchased. So not much help I'm afraid.

 

[XLR8]

You'd think that quality control with there top of the line model would be paramount but I guess wrong.
No issue with my lambdas..

Touch wood.

 

[Clean6eR]

Buy a parts tester and desolder and check the fets. That will tell you what's good or not. If you already replaced the mosfets and the thing is still not lighting up, you might have toasted some of the jfets too. Check the voltage on the bias supply while you're at it. If the amp is working but you aren't charging the diaphragm, you won't be getting any sound either.

Actually, you might just want to do a full rebuild for fun. I remember a bunch of the resistors being carbon film in there. Probably not more than $25 in parts to replace everything but the connectors and the transformer.

Parts tester? I got a bench dmm.
Im no pro with electronics but ill try pulling and testing the fets.

Is it true that beige resistors are carbon and blue metal? if so ill switch out any beige ones, and try to figure out if the ones in the signal path are matched well and change them out if i can find better pairs.
would it matter if they are carbo n or metal in the power section of the board?

this thing cost me 50 quid, what are they worth when working? i tend to buy .1% resistors at about 80p-£1 each, so want to know if its worth sinking money into and how much.(got a 006t in the post)

thank you for your help!!!

 

[erik701]

There're 4 headphones and a new kid on the block... that can drive 'em all.

What's the transport/player in the top left corner? Btw nice Zonda Cinque model

 

[XLR8]

There're 4 headphones and a new kid on the block... that can drive 'em all.

I bet he'll be upgrading in 6 months.

 

[statfi]

I love my BHSE + 009, but I find that hard to understand too. I've heard the HE-1 and I'd trade my setup for it in a heartbeat.

Could you add some characterization of the comparison, like Ali-Pacha did? I.e., why would you trade your setup (which is the same as mine)?
I am wondering how big the gap between the HE-1 and the stock 009s is, compared to the change in sound with and without rubber bands to increase the clamping force on the 009s.

 

[VandyMan]

Could you add some characterization of the comparison, like Ali-Pacha did? I.e., why would you trade your setup (which is the same as mine)?
I am wondering how big the gap between the HE-1 and the stock 009s is, compared to the change in sound with and without rubber bands to increase the clamping force on the 009s.

I posted more details in another topic awhile back. I'll see if I can find it. Been too long to go by memory. I strongly recommend trying to hear the HE-1 for yourself. It is a worthwhile experience even if you have no plans to buy.

 

[Ali-Pacha]

Strange thing to increase the clamping force on the 009s as pads are a bit soft and thin (and not very angled) compared to 007. When I hear the effect on shrinking the cavity between eardrum and driver for the same driver (for instance from Sigma Pro to Lambda Signature), I would rather go the other way to get the more spacious feeling you may have with Sennheiser's stats, including HE-1. And also deal with the slight brightness / too fast character of 009, which is definitely accentuated when driver is closer to the ear.

Try the HE-1 and make your own mind. I think it's that simple

Ali

 

[bmichels]

What's the transport/player in the top left corner? Btw nice Zonda Cinque model

it is a Boulder 2120 DAC/Renderer ($60,000). I wish @pham could tell us a little bit about this TOL gear.

 

[Tinkerer]

Parts tester? I got a bench dmm.
Im no pro with electronics but ill try pulling and testing the fets.

Is it true that beige resistors are carbon and blue metal? if so ill switch out any beige ones, and try to figure out if the ones in the signal path are matched well and change them out if i can find better pairs.
would it matter if they are carbo n or metal in the power section of the board?

this thing cost me 50 quid, what are they worth when working? i tend to buy .1% resistors at about 80p-£1 each, so want to know if its worth sinking money into and how much.(got a 006t in the post)

thank you for your help!!!

Yeah, blue are metal film. Don't bother with .1%. 1% is just fine at a fraction of the cost. Just use CMF60 Dale series. The reason you want good metal film over others is it tends to be more precise in terms of value and drifts less as it ages. The amps are worth between $100 and $200 depending on the market