Separate names with a comma.
there is just the KGSSHV, then there is the KGSSHV Carbon
Exactly ! But then again, Each Carbon or Kgsshv is different to one another, uniquely crafted by the DIY community. The person taste is also unique. My bet is to ask all questions for the owner/seller about the sound before anything. ....then again, the Carbon is a better amp
I have a newbie Stax energizer Q to all you Stax guys out there! I decided to dive in to the Stax electrostatic water recently, as I've always used Quad electrostatic loud speakers. So now I have vintage Stax ear speakers in nice condition - SR-X (perfect, unused!) and SR-Lambda I also have 2 SRD energizers, the 6 in self-biasing form and the mains version of the 7.
My Q. is this: The 7's label describes it as 100v, .1W, 50-60Hz, whereas I've seen other 7s labels described as 100v - 240v. So do you guys think that all 7 series SRD energizers are suitable for use with European voltages, or are there some that are 100v only (for the Japanese market)? Or, to put it in a nutshell, do you think I can use my SRD-7 without a transformer, here in the Bristol, UK (given that, for the time being anyway, we're still part of Europe and hence use mains at a nominal 230 volts)?
The bass on the 009 and carbon is just too beautiful. I never witness such beautiful bass before. There is 0 distortion with excellent dynamic, punches, slams, and body, balances, speed ! Damn!
I closed up my Capacitors opening a bit more
I have an L700. The only amp I've paired it with is the 006tS. It's a little bass shy but it sounds so good I have no reason to upgrade. Though others on these forums have said that the L700 scales well with higher end non Stax amps.
noice, looks like the Ferrari of amplifiers. One day, one day i'll have the sr-009.
I believe those PSU caps play a big role in the final voicing of the amp no?
It depends, but the final voicing should be about every little Parts in there, resistors ? Capacitors ? Connectors, Wirings....etc...etc. most importantly is the current tuning
Yes current it definitely a big player, what current is yours running at? kevin gilmore stated on headase that past 25ma, there is no audible difference. That was with his circlotron though
I am running 17-18mA as I prefer the tonality to be closer to T2 (16mA)
Bass on 009 is for me the best you can get from an estat so far.
007's bass (mk1) is flabbier, not as massive nor extended, and I've the feeling those headphones cheat most of people somehow because of the overall darker signature (yeah, 009 are brighter, because of the 1-2 khz region mostly...but definitely with more bass to my ears).
007 mk2 bass is more or less the same as mk1, with a hump on low-mids and shortened subs because of the port (closed port = mk1 bass)
Orpheus clones bass is more symphonic / atmospheric, but not as tight / impactful and lacks a hair of extension.
Properly driven HE60 have very tight bass, but lack volume and extension
I surely lack Omega 1's knowledge
For what it's worth, I'm talking out of an Yggy (Moffat Bass ) + BHSE with Mesa Boogie tubes, maybe not the most refined EL34 out there but likely the most proficient in the bass area.
My Singxer SU-1 audio bridge came in, and i'm now using the I2s input into my dac. Detail, separation, and soundstage vastly improved.
Let it be known that optical spdif is vastly inferior to i2s. I will be trying the coax and AES inputs later, for now i just need to listen...
Lol, one way to stop Stax Fart is...to wear Glasses
I don't believe in any Digital interface to tinker and take a toll on my system chain....I do believe in pure quality DAC, Amp, Cables and interconnects. Anything that has to do with timer, jitter, etc....is the job of the DAC and the way it was implemented.
I sound crazy, but instead of spending 300-400 for an interface or filters or Conditioners....I will and I do spend 300-400$ on powercord, then USB cables, and then XLR cables . Stay the purest to the sources and the system, no additional funny monkey and bananas
To each their own snake oil
Although, I2s is far and away a better protocol over short distances. The master clock and audio signal are not multiplexed as with coax, optical or AES/EBU. They each have separate lines with I2s, resulting a purer reproduction of the audio signal.
Not to mention I2s requires no transmitter and receiver on either endlike with other inputs. Data is fed directly from bridge converter to dac. End result is much less jitter, and you can hear it! At the very least it is very obvious in my system.
The sr-007 now feel like they are being driven with power and panache. complex passages sound really resolved now, and the observable effect is that the music somehow sounds slower, because you are easily able to hear everything clearly within its own space. Very interesting
Recently just bought Lambda Signature from Japan,didn't notice it come with XLR 6pin.
Anyone know how to make it work on STAX 5Piin(Pro) Amp?
I wonder why on earth anyone would reterminate it that way. Cheapest easiest fix would likely just be a new ribbon cable. It's only 40 pounds for a new cable from electromod.uk. If it's a Signature, then it should already be a pro anyhow.