[zolkis]

  I just purchased a pair of domestic 007Mk2 from Justin, and from what I understand the only difference between the import 007-A Mkll is the color, not the sound signsture as long as their both from the current years being '15 and up? 

 
OK, so we can assume that all current versions (black 007 Mk2 and silver 007A) have the same driver and sound the same. It makes sense .

 

[joseph69]

  OK, so we can assume that all current versions (black 007 Mk2 and silver 007A) have the same driver and sound the same. It makes sense .

I hope so. 

 

 

 

[CalvinW]

What are the differences between the 323s and the new 353x beside the addition of balanced input?

 

[zolkis]

  What are the differences between the 323s and the new 353x beside the addition of balanced input?

 
My listening impression is the 353x sounds slightly better even from single-ended inputs.

 

[zolkis]

I have bought some gear from a local person, and it turned out the gentleman has a Stax SR-Omega and lives near... Imagine the joy...
 
My first impression was that everything was done just right. Very comfortable, but the ear pads are shallow and very well designed. I was staring in doubt: I arrived to the same conclusion with my pad mods, that I want pads go in the direction of being more shallow and keeping distance like the HD800 pads do. The SR-Omega pads are just like that, therefore in my book it steals the crown both from the HD800 and the 009 pads. 
 
The arcs were a bit disappointing, but the overall solution is likely better than with the 007, since they seem to ring less. I have read the SR-Omega were a bit fragile, but I didn't have that impression when holding it in my hands. It's very well built.
 
The sound... easily the best Stax that I have ever heard. Surely I liked it more than the 009. The owner has had two 009's over time and they were defeated. Unfortunately I didn't have my 007 with me, but the Omega 1 reminds me more to my modded 007 Mk1 than to the 009.
Based on memory and first impression, the SR-Omega seems to be  the most natural and best sounding Stax headphone. Everything sounded musical,  right and in place, sound stage was wonderful as well. It's pity it is near unobtainable, and if yes, the price is prohibitive.
 
Hopefully I will be able to do a more proper comparison some time (maybe 1-2 months) later, when my amp is ready and he gets his new amp as well. Things are coming together... I secretly hope (and now have some cues) that my modded 007 Mk1 gets quite close to the SR-Omega, actually.

 

[3X0]

Interestingly the SR-Omega earpads are vinyl and thus considerably stiffer than the 007/009 pads of any variety.
 
I spent about 40 hours comparing the 009 and Omega closely (across both the Carbon and T2) and I felt the latter was audibly superior in tone, bass, imaging and resolution.
 
The 009 sounds more "clear" but this appears to be an issue of hyperclarity/tone as its resolution is certainly inferior.

 

[elrod]

   
OK, so we can assume that all current versions (black 007 Mk2 and silver 007A) have the same driver and sound the same. It makes sense .

I thought what was just as important in the SN. I was under the impression that the SZ2 prefix used the same driver as the Omega II MK1, and the SZ3 is the new driver which is more forward. Seems most of the newer MK2's have the SZ3 while the 007A's are still using SZ2...

 

[JimL11]

  Looking for some feedback about ECC99 tubes rolling in Stax SRM 600LE amp or any other, modified Stax amps that can use them.
 
From what I could find, there is only few available, which are:
 
JJ Tesla normal
JJ Tesla gold pins
NOS 6N6P Russian made
 
E182CC - but I am not sure if this tube can be used, however, they do mention it online.
 
Any thoughts?
 
THX

As a general rule, the only totally safe tube rolling is substituting the same type tube from a different manufacturer.  Another general rule is that a competent designer designs his circuit for the specified tube type - this means that substituting a different tube type is likely to give suboptimal results, unless the designer specifically states otherwise.  For "similar" tubes you have to look at the tube specifications.  In the case of an electrostatic amp such as the 600LE you need to have a high plate voltage specification.  The 6N6P and E182CC have a specified max plate voltage of 300 volts.  The ECC99 has a maximum plate voltage spec of 400 volts, a significant difference.  The 6N6P and E182CC may be usable substitutes in other situations, but not for stat amps, where the standing voltage likely exceeds 300 volts.  In other words, in plain English, there is NO safe substitute for the ECC99 in this particular situation.  DO NOT put  6N6P or E182CC tubes in your 600LE unless you hate your amp and want to blow it up, and incidentally lose all warranty coverage by putting in the wrong tube.

 

[Sorrodje]

Is the SRM600LE a worthy upgrade from the SRM-T1 ? 

 

[Blackmore]

Thanks very much for your reply, I suspected this. Also, was bit surprised that there are none of the equivalent NOS ECC99 out there, say like 12AU7 or 6SN7.
 
Quote:

  As a general rule, the only totally safe tube rolling is substituting the same type tube from a different manufacturer.  Another general rule is that a competent designer designs his circuit for the specified tube type - this means that substituting a different tube type is likely to give suboptimal results, unless the designer specifically states otherwise.  For "similar" tubes you have to look at the tube specifications.  In the case of an electrostatic amp such as the 600LE you need to have a high plate voltage specification.  The 6N6P and E182CC have a specified max plate voltage of 300 volts.  The ECC99 has a maximum plate voltage spec of 400 volts, a significant difference.  The 6N6P and E182CC may be usable substitutes in other situations, but not for stat amps, where the standing voltage likely exceeds 300 volts.  In other words, in plain English, there is NO safe substitute for the ECC99 in this particular situation.  DO NOT put  6N6P or E182CC tubes in your 600LE unless you hate your amp and want to blow it up, and incidentally lose all warranty coverage by putting in the wrong tube.

 

[JimL11]

  Is the SRM600LE a worthy upgrade from the SRM-T1 ? 

No idea in terms of sound, but from what I understand, it is basically the same design, except with the 6CG7/6FQ7 output tubes of the T1 replaced with ECC99 tubes, and lower value plate resistors so running at a higher output current,but basically the same circuit, similar passive power supply, etc. So, I would expect somewhat more power but  not a significant upgrade in sound quality. However, according to spritzer, there have been reliability problems with the 600 - apparently the output resistors tend to fail.
 
In my opinion a better upgrade would be to substitute cascode constant current sources for the output resistors. That would take the design close to the KGST, lacking only the regulated power supply

 

[Mach3]

Anyone here had any experience with the SR-207 vs the SR-007 all version and the SR-009.
What I'm after is impression comparing the three. Like bass, mids, treble, clarity, soundstage. Would be much appreciated.
I currently own both the SR-207 and the SR-L300. I have modded the SR-207 heavily and it hands down destroy my HD800 with the SDR mod & Anax 3.0.
3D imaging/clarity, deep and not coloured impactful bass. I was so stock on the detail retrieval of the SR-207 compared to my HD800 which is a rare one with no 6Khz spike.
Being the basic system as stated by Stax I wonder how much more better is the SR-00X considering it like 5-10x the cost of the SR-207 which is now discontinue.

 

[zolkis]

Anyone here had any experience with the SR-207 vs the SR-007 all version and the SR-009.
What I'm after is impression comparing the three. Like bass, mids, treble, clarity, soundstage. Would be much appreciated.
I currently own both the SR-207 and the SR-L300. I have modded the SR-207 heavily and it hands down destroy my HD800 with the SDR mod & Anax 3.0.
3D imaging/clarity, deep and not coloured impactful bass. I was so stock on the detail retrieval of the SR-207 compared to my HD800 which is a rare one with no 6Khz spike.
Being the basic system as stated by Stax I wonder how much more better is the SR-00X considering it like 5-10x the cost of the SR-207 which is now discontinue.

Well, it's long. I'd say just be happy with the (modded) 207, and try to listen to yourself to the others when you have the chance. Until such opportunity, just enjoy life .
For me the 007 Mk1 was well justified in every area (sound stage, tone, balance, bass, treble, mids, dynamics, everything), especially after mods (BTW I need to update the mods thread).
The 009 is also quite much better than the 207, even the L700, especially on good amps.
Now whether is it worth is a totally subjective thing, only you can answer that, based on your own impressions.

 

[Tinkerer]

Anyone here had any experience with the SR-207 vs the SR-007 all version and the SR-009.
What I'm after is impression comparing the three. Like bass, mids, treble, clarity, soundstage. Would be much appreciated.
I currently own both the SR-207 and the SR-L300. I have modded the SR-207 heavily and it hands down destroy my HD800 with the SDR mod & Anax 3.0.
3D imaging/clarity, deep and not coloured impactful bass. I was so stock on the detail retrieval of the SR-207 compared to my HD800 which is a rare one with no 6Khz spike.
Being the basic system as stated by Stax I wonder how much more better is the SR-00X considering it like 5-10x the cost of the SR-207 which is now discontinue.

I had a 207 and my 007 Mk I at the same time, and gave them the Highlander treatment like I always do with my primary headphones. I liked the 207 a lot. Very neutral for a lambda. Good flat bass if you can get it sealed right. The 007 Mk I had a very similar sound signature and also beat it in every category. You can hear a lot more details. About as close to a straight upgrade as you can get IMO.

The only adjustment I had to make to the 007 Mk I was give it a 5db boost below 60ish hz because of the shelf you can see in the measurements. So you don't have the dead flat bass of the 207 without that EQ. The bass is more impactful than the 207 however.

 

[Mach3]

Well, it's long. I'd say just be happy with the (modded) 207, and try to listen to yourself to the others when you have the chance. Until such opportunity, just enjoy life

.
For me the 007 Mk1 was well justified in every area (sound stage, tone, balance, bass, treble, mids, dynamics, everything), especially after mods (BTW I need to update the mods thread).
The 009 is also quite much better than the 207, even the L700, especially on good amps.
Now whether is it worth is a totally subjective thing, only you can answer that, based on your own impressions.

 
Thanks for your impression. On a scale of 1 to 10 for detail retrieval, what would you say it is for your 007 Mk1 compared to the 009 and the 207 if you don't mind me asking? 

I had a 207 and my 007 Mk I at the same time, and gave them the Highlander treatment like I always do with my primary headphones. I liked the 207 a lot. Very neutral for a lambda. Good flat bass if you can get it sealed right. The 007 Mk I had a very similar sound signature and also beat it in every category. You can hear a lot more details. About as close to a straight upgrade as you can get IMO.

The only adjustment I had to make to the 007 Mk I was give it a 5db boost below 60ish hz because of the shelf you can see in the measurements. So you don't have the dead flat bass of the 207 without that EQ. The bass is more impactful than the 207 however.

 
Much appreciated for your response. Sorry for asking, but what do you mean regarding the highlander treatment. Also on a 1 to 10 for detail retrieval, what would you say it is for your 007 Mk1 compared to the 207.