[rgs9200m]

Shunyata Triton here.

 

[peterb123]

  You mean, even with internally soldering job ? This kind of thing ( http://www.head-fi.org/t/679447/stax-727-voltage-conversion-100-to-117-help ) would be inoperative right now ?
The external selector thing began around 15 years ago, I guess, to prevent from grey market. You may even see some SRM-T1 without voltage selector.
 
Ali

I bought a 353X from Japan recently. The power supply section is similar to the 323 - no switch, meaning fixed to 100V input, and cutted wires on the transformer, so hardly possible to change voltage by soldering.
 
Peter

 

[edstrelow]

  Does anyone try/use AC noise isolation transformer for your stax rig?
Does it affect sound quality IYO?
I tried over 20 ferrite clamps for my stax AC power lines. wow it remove hardness and sound so smooth...
 
Thank you

I found that the Audioprism and PS Audio plug-in line filters were more effective than ferrite clamps. They are  more expensive at about $30-50 each, and you want 3 or more, but still a lot cheaper than regenerators and the like.

 

[martin778]

  Where do you buy something like that?

 
Mostly second hand stuff websites, estate sales etc.
I'm not trying to say that PS Audio is selling snake oil, since they don't, I had their DAC's and they were pretty good.
For me a lot of non-audiophile gear just gives more bang for buck.

 

[Crashem]

 
Yes that will work on your amp and DAC. I only got the bigger P10 because my power amp for my speakers is a monster.
 
To clarify, the P3, P5 and P10 are amplifiers, in that they take the AC and take it back to DC, clean it and then regenerate it out to perfect AC 230V or what ever your voltage is.
 
Other devices that are not doing that, i.e. passive filters may or may not help, but will never have the impact of regeneration of the mains. In some cases the mid to budget filters can make things worse and throttle the power and actually add problems.
 
Also look at the plugs and IEC connectors and use hifi fuses. Also run a dedicated ring main back to the consumer unit so you have no fridges of AC on that line. It is hassle, but I did it and it was better for it. Cost peanuts for the 45 amp cable and wall plug. Then all my system powers off the P10. You can set the P3/P5/P10 to reboot after a power cut or not. You can control it over the web or via a remote. You can set the voltage the Sine Wave (Sine or Multiwave). I use Multiwave which sounds better, and has the effect of putting bigger capacitors in your DAC / Amplifiers.
 
To prove this is not snake oil, I get the best sound at any time of day. Before I got a good sound at 2am but not during the day (quite rough). And the soundstage is wider and the treble smoother. Plus it is more dynamic and the bass is stronger. I can feel the frames on my 009s vibrate more at the same volume as without it, so yes, it is a fact.

 
Just want to say I agree with Astrostar. The rational behine why the PS Audio Regen products work make sense to me.  We reproduce your power so that it is within tight specs so you can better ignore the stuff up the chain.  I have them for both my headphone setup and HT setup and I recognize it made a difference.  With passive and active power filtering solutions, it is hard for me to judge where real effects end and snake oil begins.  A couple/few caveats:
 
1) It reproduces your power.  So if your power was clean and consistent before, the PS Audio stuff won't make as much a difference.  Obviously, if your power is inconsistent and dirty, it will make a huge difference.
2) I believe the current PS Audio line does not do any filtering. As such, if you have noise coming from one piece of equipment, I think it can cause problems.  This may be why a few are reporting better performance with their older models with filtering.
3) Some have argued that they have heard reduced dynamics from their AMPs.  I haven't personally noticed this effect.  But these same people often will argue AMPs should be plugged directly into wall socket with minimal filtering.

 

[DolphinG]

 
I bought a 353X from Japan recently. The power supply section is similar to the 323 - no switch, meaning fixed to 100V input, and cutted wires on the transformer, so hardly possible to change voltage by soldering.
 
Peter

 
Thanks! That's the information that I was finding.
I must stop thinking about 353X and keep on using my 727A.

 

[astrostar59]

   
Thanks! That's the information that I was finding.
I must stop thinking about 353X and keep on using my 727A.

You know Paradoxper is selling his awesome KGSShv. Would blow a Stax amp away for sure. I have the same amp from the same builder.

 

[Dres]

After using my srm717 for years, on a hot humid day when powering down I noticed arcing and minor smoke from near Q34. After powering down for several days I tested it again, the amp seems to be working correctly but powering on or off will reproduce the arcing. A close inspection noticed the fault between the two traces (see the attached picture). Is there are safe way to fix this?
 

 

[astrostar59]

  After using my srm717 for years, on a hot humid day when powering down I noticed arcing and minor smoke from near Q34. After powering down for several days I tested it again, the amp seems to be working correctly but powering on or off will reproduce the arcing. A close inspection noticed the fault between the two traces (see the attached picture). Is there are safe way to fix this?
 

 

 

  After using my srm717 for years, on a hot humid day when powering down I noticed arcing and minor smoke from near Q34. After powering down for several days I tested it again, the amp seems to be working correctly but powering on or off will reproduce the arcing. A close inspection noticed the fault between the two traces (see the attached picture). Is there are safe way to fix this?
 

 

Hmm, looks odd. Normally Stax amps are really reliable especially the non tube versions. It looks like a blob of solder has been dropped on the traces and gone black. Can you get a scalpel blade and carefully scrape that debris off? If you can get the resin section between those tracers metal free it should be A OK. Only do this after a good few hours of power down., The caps scan hold lethal charges.  If you are not confident take it to a repair shop. Actually you might be better posting this to Spritzer over at the other forum, he will know more than me. It might be a part failure causing an overload?

 

[labrat]

[
Del

 

[martin778]

Agreed, also do not use the amp until you get this fixed. It can only get worse.

 

[soren_brix]

 
 
Photo shows my P10 plus the smaller Linear power supply just powering my Mac Mini and external Clock.

Hi Pokemonn
I have never tried ferrite clamps? I think are are sometimes used on power leads coming out of wall wart supplies.
 
 
I do however use a PS Audio P10 Mains Regenerator which may be the same thing you are talking about (AC noise isolation transformer)
It is a big transformer that takes my 230V -258V AC 50Hz and regenerates it back out as clean 230V AC Multi Wave 50hz. I get a big increase in sound quality from this unit. Mt mains is quite noisy, it reads 2.5% at least distortion and can be 230V up to 258V depending on the time of day and demand (other houses). I get 230V bang on output and 0.1% distortion now.
 
So YES a mains regenerator can make a BIG difference. I put all my system through it, my DAC, Mac MINI and power supply, KGSSHv and my (Speaker amp) Plinius Power Amplifier, so everything gets an upgrade. It is not cheap but is worth it IMO. I would say passive filters, distribution boxes and other gizmos don't do so much. To get rid of the AC noise you need to regenerate from scratch.

I wonder if you have compared with/without the conditioner when all equipment has been proper grounded and maybe a common mode filter on each as well?

 

[soren_brix]

 
Use a sharp knife and scrape away all black material until you have a clean, green surface.
Clean with some detergent fluid made for this, or just use alcohol.
Apply some lacquer to cover up the exposed area.
You can get proper lacquer from any knowable shop doing this sort of business.
Do not let this develop!
It might get very much worse if you don't stop it!

 

  After using my srm717 for years, on a hot humid day when powering down I noticed arcing and minor smoke from near Q34. After powering down for several days I tested it again, the amp seems to be working correctly but powering on or off will reproduce the arcing. A close inspection noticed the fault between the two traces (see the attached picture). Is there are safe way to fix this?
 

 

To add to the advice from Labrat: the pcb looks pretty dusty ... you might consider cleaning your entire pcb as arcing can be caused by contamination...I use this one from Kontakt Chemie.
The spray can has a brush attached that work pretty well. Please make sure that the PCB/components are all dry before powering up again.
Clean isopropanol/isopropyl alcohol will also do the trick.

 

[walakalulu]

Most regenerators are designed for source loads only and will work well with headlamps but not many high current power amps although some offer a bypass for high current gear.

 

[astrostar59]

Most regenerators are designed for source loads only and will work well with headlamps but not many high current power amps although some offer a bypass for high current gear.

It depends on the power rating of the amp and the regenerator max output in amps. Some Krell and similar class A power amps need more than 6 amps. My Plinius Class A power amp needs 700 watts at 230V so that = 3 amps. Remember class A amps are running flat out all the time and are very energy inefficient. Many amplifiers today are actually Class A/B or even class D which is amazingly efficient.
 
The rest of my gear needs less than 1 amp. I have not had a problem with the regenerator strangling my Power amp. My P10 is 6.25 amps rating.
 
I would say the BHSE / KGSShv needs less than 1 amp supply, DACs less. In fact my KGSShv off-board 450V draws 65 Watts so only 0.3 amps. As long as you keep around 50% load on the regenerator you should be fine. Beyond the amp rating, your gear is calling for pure clean power, as much as possible. This is what affects the sound I have found to a large degree. 
 
Power supplies in DAC and amplifiers are complex beast that have a tough job to do, removing mains hash and regulating the supply to the circuits downstream. Pre-amplifiers and DAC are super sensitive to noise and mains hash. This is why IMO DACs designed to ruin on a (well designed) battery system can sound so good.