[M3NTAL]

I've been playing my 5K as a USB DAC/Amp running performance + high gain + balanced. It looks like that got it running so hot that the battery bulged. Guess it's time for another. I don't think there are any new devices with such flexibility unless I picked up an Android DAP. Anyone have a recommendation which way to go?

Is there a battery replacement for this? I don't mind the plastic looking all deformed if the battery is safe to use.

 

[xSDMx]

I've been playing my 5K as a USB DAC/Amp running performance + high gain + balanced. It looks like that got it running so hot that the battery bulged. Guess it's time for another. I don't think there are any new devices with such flexibility unless I picked up an Android DAP. Anyone have a recommendation which way to go?

Is there a battery replacement for this? I don't mind the plastic looking all deformed if the battery is safe to use.

I use my 5K powered on almost 24/7 as a USB DAC. Set the battery charge limit to 80% in the settings. I don't have this issue.

 

[M3NTAL]

I use my 5K powered on almost 24/7 as a USB DAC. Set the battery charge limit to 80% in the settings. I don't have this issue.

I do have it set to 80% - I just think it was the batteries time to go.

 

[DeJaVu]

Is there a battery replacement for this? I don't mind the plastic looking all deformed if the battery is safe to use.

Not safe to use, as if it gets punctured it will catch on fire.
5k uses 4.35v li-ion(3.8v nominal) battery, and its pretty simple to replace if you can solder, just two joints.
Ill give you the right size of the battery so you can look for a replacement when i get home. Screws on the bottom are t5 security torx.

 

[M3NTAL]

I went ahead and ordered a new replacement. I'll try to open mine up tonight if I have a small enough bit for it. See if it was the battery or just the case melting

 

[DeJaVu]

See if it was the battery or just the case melting

If its bulging up then most probably its the battery.

I'll try to open mine up tonight if I have a small enough bit for it.

Heres a set with the needed bit
Or if you want to look for an alternative, besides "T5 security torx" you can search for "T5 hollow" or "T5H".
If you already have a regular T5 torx bit, you can break of the pin in the middle of the screw pretty easily by using a very small flathead SL1.0(what i did) shove it on the side and turn till one breaks, the pin, or your bit if its of the play-doh variety . And use the regular torx after youre successful.
Crack the case open at the bottom where the screws are with a plectrum or a fingernail, and it will lift up like car hood. While lifting it it might lift the board with it, to prevent warping or cracking the board or damaging the 3.5mm port in the process(as 3.5mm port will be still lodged in its slot) take a toothpick or something small and non conductive and push down on the bottom of the casing of the type c port and push the board so it stays down, after that you just pull up carefully till the top clips pop.

Battery dimensions are - 6.8mm thick, 21mm wide and 34mm long. You can also use the search term "682134 Li-ion battery". The housing has a potential of accepting 24mm wide battery(682434) in case you cant find the exact one or maybe you find one with larger capacity, though some plastic would need to be shaved from the housing.

Edit: Just watch out not to get a 4.2v battery as it will be constantly overcharged and not last long(though could also work if you limit charging to 80%), those are marked 3.6-3.7v nominal. If its marked 3.8-3.85v nominal then its the 4.35v one.

 

[Safeinthemountains]

If its bulging up then most probably its the battery.


Heres a set with the needed bit
Or if you want to look for an alternative, besides "T5 security torx" you can search for "T5 hollow" or "T5H".
If you already have a regular T5 torx bit, you can break of the pin in the middle of the screw pretty easily by using a very small flathead SL1.0(what i did) shove it on the side and turn till one breaks, the pin, or your bit if its of the play-doh variety . And use the regular torx after youre successful.
Crack the case open at the bottom where the screws are with a plectrum or a fingernail, and it will lift up like car hood. While lifting it it might lift the board with it, to prevent warping or cracking the board or damaging the 3.5mm port in the process(as 3.5mm port will be still lodged in its slot) take a toothpick or something small and non conductive and push down on the bottom of the casing of the type c port and push the board so it stays down, after that you just pull up carefully till the top clips pop.

Battery dimensions are - 6.8mm thick, 21mm wide and 34mm long. You can also use the search term "682134 Li-ion battery". The housing has a potential of accepting 24mm wide battery(682434) in case you cant find the exact one or maybe you find one with larger capacity, though some plastic would need to be shaved from the housing.

Edit: Just watch out not to get a 4.2v battery as it will be constantly overcharged and not last long(though could also work if you limit charging to 80%), those are marked 3.6-3.7v nominal. If its marked 3.8-3.85v nominal then its the 4.35v one.

Wow, I'm not the one who asked for all of these info, but thank you a lot for all the investigations you made on the battery and how to open...
If the 5K doesn't become crazy like the two ES100 I had, it will be really useful to know all of this, especially the voltage; I didn't know there were 3.8V Li-ions... but I noticed on the app that the highest voltage was quite unusual

 

[DeJaVu]

Wow, I'm not the one who asked for all of these info, but thank you a lot for all the investigations you made on the battery and how to open...
If the 5K doesn't become crazy like the two ES100 I had, it will be really useful to know all of this, especially the voltage; I didn't know there were 3.8V Li-ions... but I noticed on the app that the highest voltage was quite unusual

No trouble.
Have a faulty 5K on hand and was curious so i went for it(not that i needed to replace a battery), as i know id also appreciate such information. Its basically the easiest one to have the battery replaced, compared to the rest of the bunch that use glue on the cases.
Those 3.8v(4.35v charged) batteries are basically the better choice for a battery operated device as they can achieve higher energy density because of the higher operating voltages(lower current draw as a result) through-out the whole discharge cycle.

 

[Mario S]

When I connect qudelix to my phone(galaxy s21 ultra) via cable it force reboots my phone after couple of seconds. Any ideas what's causing it?

 

[ExTubeGamer]

This new Hybrid filter is so good. Really improves the sound! The Q5K is now becoming my favorite playback device for IEMs.

 

[jasonb]

This new Hybrid filter is so good. Really improves the sound! The Q5K is now becoming my favorite playback device for IEMs.

I think the Hybrid filter sounds a bit aggressive. I like Minimum phase-fast roll off.

 

[DBaldock9]

Does anyone know why the Android app is v2.2.3, and the Chrome extension is v2.2.4?
The app says the F/W version on my Q5K is v2.2.3.
I can't figure out what the Chrome extension does, or how to interact with it.

 

[mt877]

Does anyone know why the Android app is v2.2.3, and the Chrome extension is v2.2.4?
The app says the F/W version on my Q5K is v2.2.3.
I can't figure out what the Chrome extension does, or how to interact with it.

Did the Chrome extension auto-update to v2.2.4? Mine is still v2.2.3 and no update for the Chrome extension available. It should not make a difference, but I'm on a Mac.

I believe the firmware and Chrome extension must be the same version (v2.2.3) to be able to connect to the Q5K. You click the "Connect Device" button.

EDIT: I visited the Chrome Web Store and the version shown is v2.2.4, but the extension didn't auto-update for me, so I'm still at v2.2.3. I still believe the Q5K and Chrome extension need to be the same version (Q5K=v2.2.4 & Chrome Ext=v2.2.4) to be able to connect.

After connecting the button changes to "Connected" status. To disconnect, click the "Connected" button and the status changes to "Connect Device"

After connecting, you can click the items on the left side (Input, Volume....) to control the Q5K.

EDIT: During the last update it took Qudelix a few days to release the new version Android app. Then you had to update the Android app which then performed the update on the Q5K.

 

[DBaldock9]

Thanks!
When I entered the chrome-extension: URL shown in your image - I was able to see the extension UI. Clicking "Connect", and I was able to update my Q5K to v2.2.4.

 

[mt877]

Thanks!
When I entered the chrome-extension: URL shown in your image - I was able to see the extension UI. Clicking "Connect", and I was able to update my Q5K to v2.2.4.

Nice! I think I'll uninstall the v2.2.3 Chrome extension and install the v2.2.4 version from the Chrome Web Store. I should be able to update my Q5K to v2.2.4 as well then.

EDIT: As soon as I launched the Chrome Qudelix extension the Q5K connected and the v2.2.4 firmware update message popped up. Update completed immediately.

Here's the chrome extension url for those that want to copy and paste to launch if needed: chrome-extension://phaodiidhofhdmfkjiacigibgikhfafn/index.html