[silvesnake]

So over on the 1More H1707 thread, a fellow member shared a cool 2.5mm-to-MMCX adapter he made:

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/1more-h1707-triple-driver-over-ear.849824/page-64#post-14974674

This allows mmcx cables to be used on the 1More H1707 triple driver headphone, instead of the mediocre stock cable:

So using his instructions, I made my own 2.5mm-to-MMCX adapter:


Except that I took mine one step further:

Surprisingly, the TRN BT20 drives the H1707 really well! It's a headphone intended for portable devices, so it's easy to drive from low power devices (although to get the most out of the ceramic piezo tweeter, it does definitely benefit from amping).

Anyways, I LOVE the total wireless freedom

I also made a new H1707 cable out of a KZ 8-core flat braided SPC upgrade cable:


If you're interested in the other mods I've done to my H1707:​

• Foam mod: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/1more-h1707-triple-driver-over-ear.849824/page-15#post-14221717​
• Grille mod: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/1more-h1707-triple-driver-over-ear.849824/page-18#post-14247416​
• Aftermarket Pad Rolling: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/1more-h1707-triple-driver-over-ear.849824/page-18#post-14247702​

Hi

I was just curious to ask whether the cable change shown in your mod had any noticeable effects on sound signature of triple drivers compared to the stock cable and I am also very interested to know whether silver cable used, does it reduce the quantity of mid bass/bass as I want to reduce the bass quantity of my triple drivers by changing stock cable.

So over on the 1More H1707 thread, a fellow member shared a cool 2.5mm-to-MMCX adapter he made:

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/1more-h1707-triple-driver-over-ear.849824/page-64#post-14974674

This allows mmcx cables to be used on the 1More H1707 triple driver headphone, instead of the mediocre stock cable:

So using his instructions, I made my own 2.5mm-to-MMCX adapter:


Except that I took mine one step further:

Surprisingly, the TRN BT20 drives the H1707 really well! It's a headphone intended for portable devices, so it's easy to drive from low power devices (although to get the most out of the ceramic piezo tweeter, it does definitely benefit from amping).

Anyways, I LOVE the total wireless freedom

I also made a new H1707 cable out of a KZ 8-core flat braided SPC upgrade cable:


If you're interested in the other mods I've done to my H1707:​

• Foam mod: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/1more-h1707-triple-driver-over-ear.849824/page-15#post-14221717​
• Grille mod: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/1more-h1707-triple-driver-over-ear.849824/page-18#post-14247416​
• Aftermarket Pad Rolling: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/1more-h1707-triple-driver-over-ear.849824/page-18#post-14247702​
• Headband mod: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/1more-h1707-triple-driver-over-ear.849824/page-22#post-14249451​
• Final Aftermarket Pad Mod (ie the best pad option): https://www.head-fi.org/threads/1more-h1707-triple-driver-over-ear.849824/page-27#post-14271670​

Hi

I was just curious to ask whether the cable change shown in your mod had any noticeable effects on sound signature of triple drivers compared to the stock cable and I am also very interested to know whether silver cable used, does it reduce the quantity of mid bass/bass as I want to reduce the bass quantity of my triple drivers by changing stock cable.

 

[Slater]

Hi

I was just curious to ask whether the cable change shown in your mod had any noticeable effects on sound signature of triple drivers compared to the stock cable and I am also very interested to know whether silver cable used, does it reduce the quantity of mid bass/bass as I want to reduce the bass quantity of my triple drivers by changing stock cable.

No, not really.

If you want to reduce bass quantity, you have 3 options. All 3 options will make a much more noticeable difference than a different cable ever will.

1. EQ

2. Change the ear pads to a velour pad or larger volume pad (such as HM5).

3. If you don’t want to change the pads, you can also reduce the bass by covering a portion of the vent on the center of the driver’s magnet using tape. I’d start with covering 1/2 of the vent hole and seeing how you like it. If you want more reduction, cover the hole 2/3 of the way with tape.

 

[silvesnake]

No, not really.

If you want to reduce bass quantity, you have 3 options. All 3 options will make a much more noticeable difference than a different cable ever will.

1. EQ

2. Change the ear pads to a velour pad or larger volume pad (such as HM5).

3. If you don’t want to change the pads, you can also reduce the bass by covering a portion of the vent on the center of the driver’s magnet using tape. I’d start with covering 1/2 of the vent hole and seeing how you like it. If you want more reduction, cover the hole 2/3 of the way with tape.

Thanks

 

[Roderick]

I finished a restoration/modification project of Denon ah-d7100 today.

I started out with this

No clamping force left on the headband, no earpads , no cables, one driver malfunctioning and overall condition of a rottweiler's chewtoy.

I was lucky enough to buy a used mint condition Denon ah-d600 soon after I got the D7100. I've heard rumors that drivers are the same. Turns out all other parts are identical too, as I was hoping.

Here are the drivers

I won't go into detail about the dissasemby. It's just removing a lot of screws. These were not made to be taken apart by user so back plate with denon logo needs to be removed with brute force. That unfortunately leaves some scratches to the plate when one tries to pry it open.

There is a difference in damping material inside.

Cups removed from the headband. They're beautifull but unfortunately had major scratches on the parts that are visible.

I tried fixing the scratches by sanding them and applying couple layers of spray on varnish. Unfortunately because I did not have matching color varnish it made the cups look even worse. I decided to completely sand of the old one which took a while because I had to do it by hand with a piece of sandpaper.

After I was done I applied a layer of mahogany shade varnish by brush and two layers of clear spray on varnish. It Turner out pretty cool. It has kind of an amber tone now and wood grain is clearly visible. I think I like it better than original which covered a lot of the grain. One could have actually mistaken them for plastic on a quick glance.

After that there was only re-assembly using d600 headband, pads, cables and drivers. I kept the part that states the model number.

So this is it.

Other than the scratches on the side plate it turned out better than I had anticipated

 

[HungryPanda]

I finished a restoration/modification project of Denon ah-d7100 today.

Great job, they look great.

 

[Slater]

Great job, they look great.

Agreed, those turned out amazing! I bet they sound as good as they look

 

[Roderick]

Thanks! Those do sound good indeed. D7100 got a bad reputation originally because:
1) Beats hate was at it's strongest back then and replacing classic Denon design with something that resembles beats was a bad call
2) msrp of $1500 was way too high. People were allready angry with Sennheiser and Beyerdynamic pushing the boundries with HD800 and T1.
3) everyone knew that fostex made old Denon drivers so new(unknown?) manufacturer was a good reason to be sceptical.
4) they were not that good. Thinking back as crazy as it sounds HD800 was a bargain. It's a milestone headphone. D7100 and T1, not so much.

Sure, they don't sound like $1500 should but they're definately not bad. Only actual downside is occasionally harsh treble. I particularly like how open these sound despite being fully closed unlike old Denon or Fostex. To my memory these are better than D5000 and about on par with th-x00.

There are some simple mods that could be tried (damping material, vents on cup and magnet) but I did none as I am selling these so new owner can try stock sound of d7100. I'm selling allmost all of my headphones, so it's not just the Denons. I did not glue the side plates though so future modding will be easier for me or someone else.

 

[frank2908]

GOOD LAWD, what a PITA to refurb this thing . Mind you, i knew this coming into the game of buying "vintage" but this is a bit more work than usual than pad swap and headband swap and disinfecting frame. The thin cloth shown collects ear wax, so it needs to be removed or replaced.
Now good luck getting the OEM part. Its basically a thin cloth with band that stays in place tight. I needed tweezers and mini scissors to take it off like a surgeon. The pads were removed for a cleaning, but they fell apart and turned into dust . The headband is held into place with screws 3 on each side, and easy to get out, a bit of a pain to get back on. But hey its washed and clean




WoW what a surprise, Beyerdynamic pads fit. I put some dt440 pads for the time being. I even tried the stax 007 pads for "fun" and they fit. That is good to know. However, they are on another set and im not sure yet whether these deserve such luxury Beyer pads is 1/3 of the Stax ones.
Im happy knowing Beyers fit, and probably can go sheepskin, so I don't know how much pad rolling I will need. It doesn't change the sound too much because of its open nature, but the leather traps some more of the bass. Speaking of bass....




They use some bass lens system like the Ma900 or should I say the MA900 uses similar system to its grandpa. It basically concentrates the "BASS" which i presume is 60-150 area. There is no 60hz and below.
I used some black foam from KOSS foam pads for ksc75 and cut rum off so its flat and closed up the driver since i cut off the permeable thin cloth. It tamed the treble a bit. Speaking of treble...


GOOD GOD! My ears! These sound like utter shyte from PC. Harsh, bassless, and just a mess.
This is a weird can because i thought it was rated at 12 ohms, so i didn;t know what to do with it.
It plugs into almost anything, but works like a high impedance headphone. It has some voodoo resistor or circuitry and I couldn't really understand it, but it plays better with amps on high gain, and for some reason works on my 2 channel vintage receiver,
Mt DT48 5 ohm is the same way, and i'm like meh w/e

Anyway with A5 High Gain, they play fine, and with the JVC


Even my dt880 250ohm is not friendly with this old dog amp. But the Sony is. I read some people used f1 with OTL so i dont know what to think. My understanding of impedence has been shaken by the dt48 5 ohm, and these 12 ohm Sony Pony

As much as I want to do a driver swap, they sound pretty good! Made in Japan, and apparently designed by the same Sony dude who designed some of the late 80s and early 90s gems so its not dung level transducer, Very decent with Classical and Acoustic/Vocal combo, and some Live music though not all. To give a quick and dirty comparison, it does not beat a dt880 on SQ in ANY department. However, it does in sound stage which doesn't have the blobs effect nor hardcore left right stereo imaging but rather 3D, and I mean real 3D.

Also, this bass lens, though not super complicated, seems to be a lot of trial and error should I go with a driver swap, I'd have to make my own bass lens, or it probably would sound like tin cans.

Is there a bass lens engineer within me??? Only time will tell.

Recommended? Nah, unless you really want to get into the nitty gritty of stupidity.

I dont know how far you got with this, but 1 way i can think of is use micropore or other similar tape to cover the open area. Its thin, so some air can escape, but still retain enough bass. Just make sure you get a seal, so you can control better the tuning. Add more than 1 layer if more bass is required

 

[SHAMuuu]

I dont know how far you got with this, but 1 way i can think of is use micropore or other similar tape to cover the open area. Its thin, so some air can escape, but still retain enough bass. Just make sure you get a seal, so you can control better the tuning. Add more than 1 layer if more bass is required

Thank you. That sounds like a good idea to tinker with. I will consider that for further tuning.

 

[Nayparm]

Balance modded my Beoplay H6

These already have dual entry but the stock cable plugs in either side (bizzare) anyhow removed the cup link cable and cut off the cable holder clips only had to rewire one side.
Using earmax cables for 4.4mm, 2.5mm and 3.5mm

FYI please don't ask me to do any more dap/headphone mods etc, I've had a warning from Head-Fi, apparently I should do everyones mods for free. I already only charge cost for parts and shipping. My time was pretty much peanuts for the time it takes. They have also been looking at my personal ebay. So from now on no more mods, except my own and I may just delete my account

 

[gimmeheadroom]

Can somebody recommend some removable double-faced tape? I found a 3M part number but it is not available here. If I have to buy it from the UK it is going to cost around 160 euros for two rolls. Insanity...

I want to mod a pair of headphones to use a head-pad from another set but I don't want to have to destroy the headphones when the pad needs to be replaced. Thanks.

 

[murder3kz]

Just curious, do you know if the drivers between these two headphones are exactly the same? Including magnet strength?

 

[Cruelhand Luke]

Spadger cd990. The open back version of the Yoga 990 (AKA Brainwaivz, Fisher, Monoprice HR5)
(I hate the name and the logo...it's meaningless and mars the look of the headphone.
This is mostly stock...I forgot to take a picture before I removed the cloth inside the cup. It didn't do anything acoustically, it just made the cups look closed.

 

[Cruelhand Luke]

I damped the inside with blutack and silly putty just to reduce extraneous vibration in the plastic cups. I had success with similar mods on a set of HM5 a while back. It seemed to clean up the sound, treble is clean and clear, a little bright without being harsh, mids are forward and just shy of being in your face like a Grado, bass improved quite a bit...it's not quite as good as the X2 or the Argons...but, it's not far behind.
I tried to almost over do it with the damping...my thinking was, I already liked the sound, so I would tweak it, and if it got worse in some respect I would pull it back. With this much damping, the bass got a little bloated with the Braniwavz Hybrids...so I switched to a generic knockoff version that I like. It has a little softer memory foam and the pleather is fenestrated ...the combination usually gives a more open less bassy sound than the HM5 version.

 

[Cruelhand Luke]

I sanded the finish off the grills, painted the outer ring black to get rid of that stupid white hummingbird logo