[Cidious]

Thnx for your response.
 
In the mean time I have replaced all the 4 power supply capacitors with Panasonic FR 470uf 35V and the other two with the opamp for 2 Panasonic Pureism 470uf 25V capacitors. The Purism capacitors are supposed be good too and they are a little less wide and taller. So they just fit. If I don't like the sound after burn in, I'm going to try the Elna's anyway.
 
I have replaced the input EPCOS 1.5uf MKP caps with Mundorf Mlytic MKP 2.2uf caps.
 
I have replaced all the Wima FKP2 caps with ERO 1830 MKP caps, and the 2 little ones with the opamp for 2 polystyrene LCR caps. I also have some ERO 1830 MKP caps for this positions so if I don't like the LCR's i'm going to swap them too for ERO's.
 
The 60VA Block transformer is on the way to replace the 40VA one.
 
Replaced the cables with Mogami Neglex dual core cables shielded per RCA connector.
 
When the 60VA transformer arrives I will give this girl a spin.

 

[Cidious]

The Next project will be a Beyerdynamic A1 clone. Because of the convenient 2 switchable inputs. I can do A/B comparison with different kind of DAC easily.

 

[Cidious]

I am still modifying the Jay's Audio Lehmann clone. I keep the X melodius the same for now so I can compare my improvements since they sounded really similar. 

What I did:

• Replaced transformer. Original 40VA BLOCK to 60VA BLOCK (just fits. Maximum size without any concessions or modifications to case) Also braided the cables for less interference like the original Lehmanns.
• Replaced input capacitors EPCOS MKP 654 1.5uf 250V with Mundorf MCap MKP 2.2uf 250V (Like Lehmann BCL SE version)
• Replaced all Wima FKP4 22nf 63V  caps for ERO MKP 1830 22nf 63V caps.
• Replaced 2 Wima FKP4 100pf 100v 630V caps with LCR 100pf 150V polystyrene caps. (als have some ERO MKP 1830 for these to try)
• Replaced 4 Nippon LZX 470uf 25V caps for Panasonic FR 470uf 35V caps
• Replaced 2 other (opamp) Nippon LZX 470uf 25V caps with Panasonic Pureism 470uf 25V caps
• Replaced cabling with Mogami Neglex 2549 cables. Soldered with silver solder onto motherboard
• Replaced opamp with dual discrete opamp OPA111VM with class A mod with 2 x 2.7K resistors. (Still working on a better adapter with less components and soldered.)

This is what it looks like now.



Replaced the 40VA (already bigger than 30VA original) BLOCK transformer with a 60VA BLOCK. BLOCK is a german quality brand. I had to import the BLOCK from Europe to China. I didn't want Chines junk)





Nice braid


Mundorf MCap MKP 2.2uf 250V (ugly ****ers but sound good) and ERO 1830 MKP 22nf caps



Panasonic Pureism 470uf 25V caps with the opamp. I also have Elna SILMIC II's but they are really big and I wanted something that fits nicely so I figured the Panasonic Pureism could be worth a try. Have not run with the Elna's yet so I can't give you a comparisson right now.



Left are the LCR polystyrene caps. Will do A/B comparison with ERO 1830 MKP caps.




Mogami Neglex 2549 (dual core instead of the quad core) cabling. Very well shielded cable. Soldered them to the board like its supposed to be.



Opamps (2x OPA111VM mono discrete) with Class A bias, 2x 2.7K resistors. Still testing.






Thats one sexy machine






Even love the blue light!




I am still making modifications. To do list:

• Shielded Schurter AC switch/fuse housing on the way right now.
• Creating new opamp adapter with less fragile connections.
• Compare LCR 100pf caps with ERO 1830 100pf caps
• Compare Panasonic Pureism 470uf caps with Elna SILMIC II caps

And I am still wondering if I should increase the capacity of the two big blue Vishay caps since I upped the capacity of the transformer by a substantial amount.. Maybe people here could give me some guidance about what to do. If I would replace the two blue Vishay's I would replace them with the Mundorf Mlytic 6800uf caps or 4700uf caps if the capacity is already sufficient. I also kept the 470uf caps at the same capacity. Maybe they need to be a bit larger now. I'm not sure.

Also I see that the TS has bypassed 'iput caps'. Not sure what he exactly means by that but if we take a look at the original Lehmann BCL SE, we can see that Lehmann removed the Wima FKP4 caps before the Mundorf MCaps. So maybe this could be an interesting mod to do too. I could bypass them with some good copper wire. Als the ones in between the Pureism caps are left out on the SE version.







Tell me what you think and tip me if you have any tips for me to make this project even better.

 

[Laybar]

some pictures of my project, I am very satisfied with my work.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Cidious]

That is a CLEAN looking project mate! Really nicely done! Can you tell us more about the chosen parts and the progress? I recognize quite some parts but a description would be nice!
 
PRO BUILD! PROPS!

 

[Laybar]

Therefore, the resistance AUDIO NOTE, electrolytic capacitors MUNDORF, ELNA SILMIC II, polyester capacitors AMTRANS AMCH, WIMA RED, polypropylene capacitors OBBLIGATO GOLD, CLARITYCAP ESA, potentiometer NOBLE, PCBs made by me, TALEMA encapsulated toroidal transformer and EMI filter network SCHAFFNER.

 

[Cidious]

Therefore, the resistance AUDIO NOTE, electrolytic capacitors MUNDORF, ELNA SILMIC II, polyester capacitors AMTRANS AMCH, WIMA RED, polypropylene capacitors OBBLIGATO GOLD, CLARITYCAP ESA, potentiometer NOBLE, PCBs made by me, TALEMA encapsulated toroidal transformer and EMI filter network SCHAFFNER.

Pretty exclusive component choice and and a respectable job on the pcb!

What are the specs of the transformer if I may ask? It looks a bit small but I think your case and pcb are quite big.

Why have you chosen to use ELNA Silmic II in the power circuit? Their specs are not the best available for the power section. Panasonic FC, FM OR FR would beat them there.. interesting choice though. Can you explain more about your component choices?

 

[Laybar]

the transformer and the model RS0030P1-2-015K 30VA 2 x 15V, accept tips to improve my amp.​ 

 

[Cidious]

  the transformer and the model RS0030P1-2-015K 30VA 2 x 15V, accept tips to improve my amp.​ 

Ok here we go,
 
I think your transformer can have an upgrade. In my opinion it's not sufficient enough to drive the Lehmann to its glory. I used a 40VA BLOCK which is a really high quality transformer from Germany and I upgraded it to a 60VA BLOCK now. I can tell you, you can hear the difference! I also used a 40VA Talema, the bigger brother of yours in between and I can tell you with confidence the 40VA BLOCK was the better one there too. Upgrading the transformer gives it more headroom. This resulted in more punch and a faster and fuller sound in my case. Probably it can do the same for you. Don't think to light of the power supply. This is most of your sound. It can make the difference between a dull and boring sound and a really lively and punchy sound. Bigger IS better in this case. It's the heart of your machine pumping the blood through its veins. 
 
Also I think you can better change the 4 ELNA SILMIC II's for Panasonic FR or FM or even FC will probably be better for the power circuit. The ELNA's are VERY good caps for the signal circuit but I find them a bit slow and muffling in the power circuit. The Panasonic's give me a more open sound. I also just tried the ELNA SILMIC's in the signal path replacing my Panasonic Pureisms and I haven't decided yet which ones I like best. Need to do some more A/B-ing. 
 
And one little thing that is maybe just my preference.. But I would not use that connector for the transformer on your pcb. This is not a really solid connectiong and clean power is almost the most important factor in the whole device. I myself used these:
 

They are brass copper inside and tinned on the outside. You can solder the feet in the motherboard and the connection will be more solid. Lehmann uses the same system in the original model. I auditioned the difference between soldering the wires directly and using these and heard NO difference between the two methods.
 
The rest of your build looks really solid bro! Very nice and clean. I am almost tempted to create my own PCB too and start from scratch with a custom case and selected components. But I am first trying to get the best out of my clone first also for knowledge which components are preferred. I have unlimited access to components here in China for dirt cheap prices.
 
I still have a BLOCK 40VA lying around but I am located in China atm so probably that would no make much sense. You can order the BLOCK transformers from www.rs-components.com. I ordered my 60VA from there because on Taobao.com I could only find 40VA and 80VA which would be to big for my case.
 
what capacities are you using for your caps? 

 

[Laybar]

I always thought of Talema 50VA, and I'll try to change capacitors ELNA Silmic II with panasonic. (470uf 35V everyone​)

 

[Cidious]

Don't change the ELNA SILMIC's around the opamp. They are doing a fine job over their. I found out that using Panasonic's here in this spot makes the sound more flat and less musical. The ELNA's are warmer and more dynamic. But you could change the 4 ELNA's for Panasonic FR's (they are the newest series and highest rated ones) at the power supply. If not available my next choice would be Panasonic FM and then FC. The FC are most widely available and very cheap and still very decent capacitors.
 
But what kind of capacity are you using for the Mundorfs and the other caps?

 

[mikaelmark]

  Don't change the ELNA SILMIC's around the opamp. They are doing a fine job over their. I found out that using Panasonic's here in this spot makes the sound more flat and less musical. The ELNA's are warmer and more dynamic. But you could change the 4 ELNA's for Panasonic FR's (they are the newest series and highest rated ones) at the power supply. If not available my next choice would be Panasonic FM and then FC. The FC are most widely available and very cheap and still very decent capacitors.
 
But what kind of capacity are you using for the Mundorfs and the other caps?

Nice work you have done too, Cidious!
 
As for the transformer connections, remember that soldering is always the best! Ok, just a bit trickier if then decided to swap it than using cable lugs to with push connection or terminal block connectors with screws (also remeber those connectors mostly use standard steel/iron for the path).
 
Also, I see you did a good looking job with the Mogami wire between the RCA´s and PCB using heat shrink - but in my projects I use to solder the signal wire directly to the thread (see picture below) for better signal path as the small tap included and intended for soldering is magnetic and I suppose it´s made of gold plated steel while the RCA chassi use to be made of non magnetic gold plated copper (much better for signal path).
 
As for the 4 caps in the power supply, do you think Nichocon KZ Muse is a good choise or are maybe those similar as Elna Silmic II as they also are intended for use in signal path? I have those 1000uF 50V KZ in my LC´s and have not tried to swap them with anything else. http://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/pdfs/e-kz.pdf
 

 

[Cidious]

  Nice work you have done too, Cidious!
 
As for the transformer connections, remember that soldering is always the best! Ok, just a bit trickier if then decided to swap it than using cable lugs to with push connection or terminal block connectors with screws (also remeber those connectors mostly use standard steel/iron for the path).
 
Also, I see you did a good looking job with the Mogami wire between the RCA´s and PCB using heat shrink - but in my projects I use to solder the signal wire directly to the thread (see picture below) for better signal path as the small tap included and intended for soldering is magnetic and I suppose it´s made of gold plated steel while the RCA chassi use to be made of non magnetic gold plated copper (much better for signal path).
 
As for the 4 caps in the power supply, do you think Nichocon KZ Muse is a good choise or are maybe those similar as Elna Silmic II as they also are intended for use in signal path? I have those 1000uF 50V KZ in my LC´s and have not tried to swap them with anything else. http://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/pdfs/e-kz.pdf
 

 
 

I had seen your solution. Of course there are always better ways of doing something for one purpose, but sometimes it will hinder another purpose. I think your aim is for maximum performance and you want to make sure all parameters are in check that every percent is checked and not working against the end result which is the best audio possible. 
 
As where I am more of a rationalist when it comes to audio. Yes I like to work in the margins too but I have to admit.. replacing the signal wires with Mogami wires was probably overkill anyway haha. But I like to keep my builds clean and PRO. I wanted to use the SILMIC II's for the opamp position but they are SO big that I wanted another solution where the caps could still stand where they belonged and I made an concession and replaced them with the Pureism's which sound nice too btw.
 
You builds look really techy. And I am VERY curious to give them a run. But if I would build like you I would loose control of my project haha and if I'd have any problem anywhere I would get lost in troubleshooting because I get lost with all the stray components Don't get me wrong I really like you way of building. It's daring and ingenious!
 
Talking about the caps. I think the Muses are very good caps too. I just know that for power supply implementations the Panasonics are hard to beat when you look at their specs and price. Very low ESR and high ripple current. Beating most other caps. I first used them in my Aune T1 after trying a couple of other caps and also ELNA for audio and liked the Panasonics the best. They sound open, detailed and very fast. When I used them in the signal path things got bad. They flattened out the sound and made it cold. This is where I find the ELNA SILMIC IIs to be REALLY pleasing. They create dynamics, warmt and musicallity. Tried the same ELNA's in the power path and my sound got sloppy and slow somehow. 
 
 
Apart from this I am looking for my next upgrade and I am stuck on if I should upgrade the Vishay BC's for Mundorf Mlytic caps or not. They cost about $50 per pair.. that's not a cheap upgrade.. The Vishay BC's are already quite good. 
 
I am also looking into removing the small input bypass caps like in the BCL SE. But I am not sure if this is a smart idea and how to implement this upgrade properly with bypassing with a wire or not.

 

[mikaelmark]

  I had seen your solution. Of course there are always better ways of doing something for one purpose, but sometimes it will hinder another purpose. I think your aim is for maximum performance and you want to make sure all parameters are in check that every percent is checked and not working against the end result which is the best audio possible. 
 
As where I am more of a rationalist when it comes to audio. Yes I like to work in the margins too but I have to admit.. replacing the signal wires with Mogami wires was probably overkill anyway haha. But I like to keep my builds clean and PRO. I wanted to use the SILMIC II's for the opamp position but they are SO big that I wanted another solution where the caps could still stand where they belonged and I made an concession and replaced them with the Pureism's which sound nice too btw.
 
You builds look really techy. And I am VERY curious to give them a run. But if I would build like you I would loose control of my project haha and if I'd have any problem anywhere I would get lost in troubleshooting because I get lost with all the stray components Don't get me wrong I really like you way of building. It's daring and ingenious!
 
Talking about the caps. I think the Muses are very good caps too. I just know that for power supply implementations the Panasonics are hard to beat when you look at their specs and price. Very low ESR and high ripple current. Beating most other caps. I first used them in my Aune T1 after trying a couple of other caps and also ELNA for audio and liked the Panasonics the best. They sound open, detailed and very fast. When I used them in the signal path things got bad. They flattened out the sound and made it cold. This is where I find the ELNA SILMIC IIs to be REALLY pleasing. They create dynamics, warmt and musicallity. Tried the same ELNA's in the power path and my sound got sloppy and slow somehow. 
 
 
Apart from this I am looking for my next upgrade and I am stuck on if I should upgrade the Vishay BC's for Mundorf Mlytic caps or not. They cost about $50 per pair.. that's not a cheap upgrade.. The Vishay BC's are already quite good. 
 
I am also looking into removing the small input bypass caps like in the BCL SE. But I am not sure if this is a smart idea and how to implement this upgrade properly with bypassing with a wire or not.

Thank´s for your impressions!
 
So, maybe I´m gonna replace my KZ Muse in my amp´s. I see the favor ones the Panasonic FC, FM and FR (with lower ESR).
 
Any suggestion about who of this will be best?

 

[Cidious]

From Panasonic the FRs is their latest top-end line with the best specs. Not all sizes are available but 470uf 35V is well available. The Panasonic FMs come next. Still very good specs but not as good as the FRs for the power path (read practically the same but marginally lesser specs). Slightly higher ESR and slightly lower ripple current. Not a big difference though! And then comes the FC line. Solid capacitors and VERY cheap and available in all types and capacities. Lowest specs of the 3 but still better than most other brands for the power supply in terms of ESR and ripple current. And the best thing about the Panasonic caps is that they are all small. Easy to fit in mostly any circuit. 
 
https://industrial.panasonic.com/cdbs/www-data/pdf/ABA0000/ABA0000C65.pdf (Panasonic FR)
https://industrial.panasonic.com/cdbs/www-data/pdf/ABA0000/ABA0000C63.pdf (Panasonic FM)
https://industrial.panasonic.com/cdbs/www-data/pdf/ABA0000/ABA0000C59.pdf (Panasonic FC)
 
http://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/pdfs/e-ukz.pdf (Nichicon KZ Muse)
 
http://www.elna.co.jp/en/capacitor/alumi/catalog/pdf/rfs_e.pdf (Elna SILMIC II)
 
 
It is a funny thing that Nichicon doens't give performance specs for its KZ line.. May indicate that there is something lacking..
 
Of course numbers don't say it all, but it's a good indicator.
 
Oh and BTW what voltage marking do your KZ's have? I found that the higher the voltage specs the higher the performance numbers are with the Panasonic caps at least. The 35V model has better specs than the 25V model. The same with the Mundorf Mlytics, the 63V version has considerably better specs than the 40v version of the 4700uf caps for example.