The "Lovely Cube" Headphone Amp (Lehmann Black Cube Linear Clone)
Jan 5, 2015 at 9:47 PM Post #1,203 of 1,624
[...]

Last night i solved the puzzle at last. I have checked all the usual suspects, including the suggestions above every thing was OK. I changed my 627 op amps for another pair. Same thing. Then i changed to a genuine opa2134 in dil package. Dead silent! As it turns out the opamp adapter functioning as an antenna and my  R-core transformer induced hum right in the feedback loop. I verified this by adding a "class a bias socket" and thing got really hummy. I have ruled out this before because i tried different shields and positions of the transformer with absolutely no difference. 

[...]


I wonder if a LME49720HA (in metal TO-99 can) opamp would have helped with shielding.
http://cdn.head-fi.org/e/e6/152x174px-e68c8761_LME49720HA-TO99.jpg
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lme49720.pdf

I use one with a TO-99 to 8-pin DIP adapter...
http://cimarrontechnology.com/to-99to8-pindipadapterpn020601-1.aspx

...class "A" biased with a TO-5 type heatsink for an extra margin of cooling.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aavid-Thermalloy/323005B00000G/?qs=HN%252bHT2FsGBlAuCmslBIVag%3D%3D
 
Jan 6, 2015 at 10:07 AM Post #1,204 of 1,624
So, now I´m almost finished with my two amps. It tooked some weeks to build them from skratch, but it was a joy. I only used high grade compontents, such as Elna Silmic II, Nichicon KZ Muse, Mundorf, Wima, OPA627AU, PRP9372, Polystyrenes, BYV27-200 with bypassing caps, Audyn True Copper with Teflon bypass caps, Dale 24 step volume attenuator etc.
 
As I´ve built two amps, maybe someone want to buy one of them!?
 
Just tell me if you´re interested or PM me.
 
I also have s spare of most of the parts as it was cheaper per unit to buy bigger quantities, so I can also sell those if someone is interested.
 
 
/ Mikael Markstrom
 



 
Jan 14, 2015 at 9:04 PM Post #1,205 of 1,624
Can anyone comment on the quality of the DAC chipset used in the Lovely Cube Premium AD available for sale assembled at http://www.alicemagicbox.com/lasercollection/lovelycubepremiumad.html?
 
The website lists the chipset as ES9023. I'm trying to decide between the Audio-GD NFB-11.32 and the Lovely Cube to drive a pair of Senn HD 650, and I'm wondering what kind of disparity in DAC quality there is between the two. The NFB-11 uses the ES9018. Initially I thought the 9023 must trump the 9018. Higher model number means better right? But then I've seen reports that the 9018 is actually a much higher quality chipset. So I'm just wondering if there really is that much of a difference, or if the 9018 is just more expensive without really being any better.
 
Jan 15, 2015 at 2:15 PM Post #1,206 of 1,624
She's alive!

Finally completed my LC kit with the following component swaps and modifications:

1) Installed a Hammond (1182M15) 80VA Torroidal Transformer [barely fits] (w/500mA slo-blo fuse).
http://www.hammondmfg.com/1182.htm

2) Replaced C305 & C306 4700μF 50V capacitors with genuine United Chemi-Con (16M6799).

3) Replaced LM317T/LM337T (Q301 & Q302) with genuine Fairchild regulators (58K8936/58K8937).

4) Replaced LM317T/LM337T R2 1KΩ resistors (R306 & R308 [R308 on schematic is mislabled] ) with two parallel Zener diodes (18C6023) in each position for lower resistance and safety.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/501046/the-lovely-cube-headphone-amp-lehmann-black-cube-linear-clone/870#post_7930416
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/3pin_reg_notes1.html

5) Replaced the LM317T/LM337T Cadj capacitors, C308 & C311, with genuine Sprague 10μF tantalums (30C8841).

6) Replaced C103, C104, C203, C204, C313, C314, 470μF 25V capacitors with genuine Panasonic FC (80K8337).

7) Replaced C101,C102 & C201, C202, 1.5μF 200Vdc and 0.022 μF 600Vdc input caps, with SoniCap Gen I (cheap & good enough).
http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/gen-sonicap-15-uf-200vdc-p-417
http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/gen-sonicap-0022-uf-600vdc-p-404

8) Replaced opamp with genuine Texas Instruments LM4562HA with TO-99 to 8-pin DIP Adapter and TO-99 heatsink.
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm4562.pdf

Worked perfectly on the first smoke test - and sounds great!

Thanks go out to the many "BlaBlaBla" posts earlier in this thread for sharing his technical knowledge, experiments, troubleshooting and suggested upgrades. Kudos!
 
Jan 16, 2015 at 6:08 PM Post #1,210 of 1,624
  Forgot to share this in previous post:
I have reworked the schematic with correct part naming (much easier to work with)
 

 
Thanks! I've updated the first post with the correct schematics.
 
Jan 17, 2015 at 3:43 PM Post #1,212 of 1,624
All lies! I need picture proof!


Your post was my bad luck!

Today, I was going to take pictures. But, when I turned on the amp the 500mA mains slo-blo fuse blew. Replaced, and immediately blew the second one to. I don't have time to troubleshoot until next week. Any suggestions?

She was working fine for a total of about 3 hours.
Damn.
 
Jan 24, 2015 at 11:52 AM Post #1,213 of 1,624
One thing I tas noticed it that many people using the attached sockets with screws for connection of the wires in their amps - those sockets is the first thing I throw in the trash bin. Many are telling they use expensive Mogami wires, and then assembled them in the amp with plain steel sockets - the chain is not better then the weakest link!! It´s very preferable to solder the wires directly to the board. And for the difference in wiring, I don´t think there will be a huge difference between for example Mogami and standard ogygen free copper wires when using them so short in the amp.
 
Another thing I struggling with for the moment, is to find high quality 1/4 inch/ 6,35 mm headphone sockets for soldering. I have bought several different types, but no one will be gold plated, and one person claimed his headphone sockets were made of copper, but when I get them, they were not goldy or copper. Just shiny blank so I´m not sure if they´re just steel or nickel. Or maybe they are made of copper, but are nickel or chrome plated.
They are not magnetical, so at least that´s good.
 
How important is it to use gold plated headphone connectors? I know gold plating are used to minimize the risk of oxidation.
 
And do someone know where to buy gold plated stereo headphone sockets? I´ve found gold plated mono sockets, but they need to be stereo.
 
 
/ Mikael Markstrom
 
Jan 24, 2015 at 3:38 PM Post #1,214 of 1,624
And do someone know where to buy gold plated stereo headphone sockets? I´ve found gold plated mono sockets, but they need to be stereo.


I think gold plated jacks are cheap - no brainer.

The gold plated jacks that came with my LC "deluxe' kit (deluxe kit no longer available) look like these:

Neutrik NRJ6HF-1-AU http://www.neutrik.us/en-us/plugs-jacks/slim-jacks/nrj6hf-1-au

In stock at Mouser:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NRJ6HF-1-AU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV218T9lEUjXAMEGr3NewsmE%3d

Mounting hardware must be ordered separately:
NRJ-NUT-B (black plastic)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/REAN-Neutrik/NRJ-NUT-B/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt%2fyfy0dIxWU3AAL6z7x4Ur
NRJ-NUT-MK (metal knurled)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NRJ-NUT-MK/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujZed****6FBPxlzcU%2fmwJCCmOJKMSfQcc%3d
NRJ-NUT-MS (metal)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NRJ-NUT-MS/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujZed****6FBEfQiNgjNWY4S3DlgOz5xpIxeFS12gEZHQ%3d%3d
NRJ-NUT-R (red plastic)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NRJ-NUT-R/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujZed****6FBDcoj1wQT3%252b0eSZ3usZUCC4%3d
NRJ-WB (black washer)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/REAN-Neutrik/NRJ-WB/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuur7c7MCGU2IptMe4770rm
 
Jan 25, 2015 at 6:56 AM Post #1,215 of 1,624
Thank´s for your teply, Tribbs!
 
It´s a shame I can´t found those gold Neutrik here in West europe, shipping from Mouser is about $25.
 
It seem´s the shiny connectors that´s not gold plated is made of bronze with tin and selenium(?) plating:
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-GENUINE-JACK-PHONE-CONNECTOR-NEUTRIK-NYS216-1-4-6-35mm-STEREO-/280870616292?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_186&hash=item4165317ce4
 
 
/ Mikael Markstrom
 

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