[PTom]

Hi nippon, thanks for the information! Very helpful. I'm planning on buying the pre-assembled lovely cube. I think you are right my "intention is to ask if I can buy the same "high-end" product for less money". The preassembled LC is $250 which is much cheaper than the BCL and if their performance is similar I'd rather  buy the LC.
 
I am also looking at the matrix m stage since I heard this is very similar to the BCL too. Any thoughts?

 

[PTom]

Also I was just wondering why there isn't a product page for the LC?

 

[nippon]

The prices of the Premium Lovely Cube and the Matrix M-Stage are nearly equal. A pre-assembled Kit + case + transformer looks like a good deal. But i would ask the seller if the parts are chosen ones and where is the advantage between that deal and the Premium version. It's pretty difficult to say which offer is better

 

[mikaelmark]

Yes, there are a homepage for the LC, just google at: alicemagicbox
 
Stephen, alias lasercollection at ebay, having this page. You can see every component and photos of the PCB.
 
I´m a bit worried my BYV27-200 Ultrafast 25 ns will generate noise, and has been recommended to solder a film capacitor at 100 nfn in parallel for each diods. I´ve read that i may be a good idea to also have a resistor in parallel.
 
Is there someone who has tried this, or have some thoughts?
 
Found this page: http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/snubber.pdf
 
 
Best regards: Mikael Markstrom

 

[mikaelmark]

  Yes, there are a homepage for the LC, just google at: alicemagicbox
 
Stephen, alias lasercollection at ebay, having this page. You can see every component and photos of the PCB.
 
I´m a bit worried my BYV27-200 Ultrafast 25 ns will generate noise, and has been recommended to solder a film capacitor at 100 nf in parallel for each diods. I´ve read that i may be a good idea to also have a resistor in parallel.
 
Is there someone who has tried this, or have some thoughts?
 
Found this page: http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/snubber.pdf
 
 
Best regards: Mikael Markstrom

 

[cls]

I started looking into a "serious" headphone amp for my desktop and not mobile use
 
After reading various post I went and just bought this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121151033353
124€ ~171 USD
 incl. Shipping
 
I HAVE to try that.
 
I currently only own
PA2V2 from canada www.electric-avenues.com
Cmoy Amp by Zigis Audio Lab with both OPA2134 or LM4562 to switch (but I only use the OPA2134)

 

[nippon]

Hi
I bought my clone kit also from "along". I'm very interested how his amp sounds. The build quality looks good and the price is competitive.
Would be very nice if you post your feedback here.
 
kind regards
nippon

 

[Amictus]

I own a Lovely Cube (pre-assembled) and am finding it very good, for the price, with my HD800s. It puts some muscle (and ambient hall sound) into the mix in a way that none of my tube-rolling with my Schiit Lyr has quite equalled. In some ways, of course, (smoothness, control, clarity), the Schiit is way ahead. This has caused me to wonder if anyone has compared it to the Lehmann Black Cube directly? Forgive me for not having gone through the 75 pages of this thread before asking the question... I really like the sound of the Lovely Cube. It is a tremendous bargain.

 

[Amictus]

  I own a Lovely Cube (pre-assembled) and am finding it very good, for the price, with my HD800s. It puts some muscle (and ambient hall sound) into the mix in a way that none of my tube-rolling with my Schiit Lyr has quite equalled. In some ways, of course, (smoothness, control, clarity), the Schiit is way ahead. This has caused me to wonder if anyone has compared it to the Lehmann Black Cube directly? Forgive me for not having gone through the 75 pages of this thread before asking the question... I really like the sound of the Lovely Cube. It is a tremendous bargain.

Alas, no comments on the direct comparison between the Lovely Cube and its German godfather, the Lehmann Black Cube Linear (not to mention the Linear SE)... Sad face. PMs welcome on the subject.
 
I have to say that I seriously misjudged the Lovely Cube. I saw it as something temporary until I could afford something better. Well, I have discovered that it has been liberated by the acquisition of the Schiit Gungnir DAC and it's amazing synergy with the Sennheiser HD800s. I am now upgrading the power cables and the interconnect and the Lovely Cube just steps up at every improvement. It may come at a modest price, but it has enormous upgrade potential in terms of the equipment that it is paired with. Remarkable.
 
I'm still curious about the Lehmann products, though. Anyone?

 

[nippon]

I have read a nice quote in a magazine:
"Enjoy spending less money for a clone - get annoyed for a long time.
Get shortly frustrated while spending a pretty penny for an original - become satisfied for a lifetime"
 
The realitiy is somewhere inbetween

 

[mikaelmark]

I´m building my own clone to Lovely Cube with PRP9372 resistors, Audyn Plus or True Copper as coupling caps, Dale ladder volume switch, 4 pcs Nichicon KZ Muse 1000 uF and 2 pcs Elna Silmic II 470 uF, ST/ Fairchild LM317/ LM337, Russian FT-1 teflon as bypass/ voltage to ground, BYV27-200 with 0,1uF caps, THS4032/ OPA627 in Class A and 2 pcs MLytic AG 10000uF. Also, I want to use CDIL BD139/140-25 as they have higher hfe - but they´re so hard to get.
 
Do someone think it will be fine using 2 pcs 22000uF with only 25 Volt (they get 20 Volt from they circuit)? And is 22000uF way to high? Howeverhey, they will fit on the PCB. Or maybe it´s best to go ahead with 10000uF 40 Volt?
 
PS: I want to acquire this post in memory of my cat Tussan I´m using in my avatar, that died yesterday - should have been 20 years in a couple of weeks. R.I.P.
 
 
Best regards: Mikael Markstrom

 

[mikaelmark]

  I´m building my own clone to Lovely Cube with PRP9372 resistors, Audyn Plus or True Copper as coupling caps, Dale ladder volume switch, 4 pcs Nichicon KZ Muse 1000 uF and 2 pcs Elna Silmic II 470 uF, ST/ Fairchild LM317/ LM337, Russian FT-1 teflon as bypass/ voltage to ground, 100pF Styroflex polystyrene, BYV27-200 with 0,1uF caps, THS4032/ OPA627 in Class A and 2 pcs MLytic AG 10000uF. Also, I want to use CDIL BD139/140-25 as they have higher hfe - but they´re so hard to get.
 
Do someone think it will be fine using 2 pcs 22000uF with only 25 Volt (they get 20 Volt from they circuit)? And is 22000uF way to high? Howeverhey, they will fit on the PCB. Or maybe it´s best to go ahead with 10000uF 40 Volt?
 
PS: I want to dedicate this post in memory of my cat Tussan I´m using in my avatar, that died yesterday - should have been 20 years in a couple of weeks. R.I.P.
 
 
Best regards: Mikael Markstrom

 

[cls]

I got my Lehman BLC Clone from eBay Seller along1986090
Shipped by DHL Express it arrived within 6 Days (!!!)
I paid 124€ for this unitl
 
I took some pictures to show the actuall inside parts.
 

• It has the Opamp OPA2134
• Lots of WIMA brand capacitors
• NOVER LA Audio Grade Power Capacitor 10000µF 35Volt
• Siemens capacitor for Coupling
• and a Black Epoxy / Steel shielded transformator

 
I was curious since the whole thing is NOT grounded, the ground Wire on the 220V intake is not connected to the PSU the Cable is left blank?
But there is a GND wire on the PSU outlet connected to the PCB.
I did bridge the 230V directly with the PCB with a small cord show in the pictures.
 
I kind a have a "ground" noise, teseted with my Samsung Galaxy S4 > USB OTG  > UD110 MK. II DAC > Beyerdynamik DT990 
 
I want to make sure to get as close as possible to the "original" thing by Modding and upgrading.
 
Do you have anysuggestions?
 

 

[francisdemarte]

Unplug all  your sources. Do you still have ground noise with just the power and headphones plugged in? Try another electrical socket also.

 

[Danielsc]

  I´m building my own clone to Lovely Cube with PRP9372 resistors, Audyn Plus or True Copper as coupling caps, Dale ladder volume switch, 4 pcs Nichicon KZ Muse 1000 uF and 2 pcs Elna Silmic II 470 uF, ST/ Fairchild LM317/ LM337, Russian FT-1 teflon as bypass/ voltage to ground, BYV27-200 with 0,1uF caps, THS4032/ OPA627 in Class A and 2 pcs MLytic AG 10000uF. Also, I want to use CDIL BD139/140-25 as they have higher hfe - but they´re so hard to get.
 
Do someone think it will be fine using 2 pcs 22000uF with only 25 Volt (they get 20 Volt from they circuit)? And is 22000uF way to high? Howeverhey, they will fit on the PCB. Or maybe it´s best to go ahead with 10000uF 40 Volt?
 
PS: I want to acquire this post in memory of my cat Tussan I´m using in my avatar, that died yesterday - should have been 20 years in a couple of weeks. R.I.P.
 
 
Best regards: Mikael Markstrom

Hello Mikael,
 
I'm impressed with the choice of components you made. They are at 85% the same I selected.. I selected them after a lot (really a lot) of tests, between several components.
For my part, If we do not talk about the identity of the Opamp, the biggest upgrade seemed to me, to have choosen the PRP résistors..
But, I wanted to know if you did test components, to select the one you write, or did you get advice from somebody?
I also did make the step to mount an external power supply, (see post 1042 on page 70). It helps a lot and gave very good dynamics..
 
And, very impressive too, is the fact you chose nearly the same DAC to mount, than I did.
 
After some months I did not change anything, I'm now ready to build a.. Balanced project, with twoo PCB's, with all the selected components, with separate PSU..
 
Unfortunately, I can not help you about the Big 10000 caps.. My choice, when I needed them, was to use Mlytic AG 4700µf 40 volts.. And they never went warm.
I use them on the separate PCU pcb, now.
 
And, sincerly, I'm really sorry about your cat.. Nearly 20 years is very high..
 
Regards.
 
Daniel