[TominJapan]

The following "warranty card" is valid for Japanese market only.
This product does not have warranty abroad.

So desu ne.

 

[b0bb]

Thanks yes I know, but I bought in Japan where I do not live anymore just going thee for business trips nowadays and I know they'll tell me I blew it up....
Looked around, was thinking of replacing the fuse with a twin clip or a fuseholder.
Anyone has the precise fuse reference ? would a 5x20mm fuse with 1.5A/125v fast blow be the one to choose ? knowing that the orginal one is smaller.

The fuse in my picture is an Eaton-Bussmann BK/GMA 1.5R 250V 1.5A Fast Blow 5mmx20mm
 
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BK%2FGMA-1.5-R/283-2834-ND/1023965

 

[Chris J]

Thanks yes I know, but I bought in Japan where I do not live anymore just going thee for business trips nowadays and I know they'll tell me I blew it up....
Looked around, was thinking of replacing the fuse with a twin clip or a fuseholder.
Anyone has the precise fuse reference ? would a 5x20mm fuse with 1.5A/125v fast blow be the one to choose ? knowing that the orginal one is smaller.

Problem is:
The fuse blew because?
Of what?

One thing about replacing a fuse, if the fuse blows again, sometimes you can create even more damage.

 

[miceblue]

Well......the good news is that I got the real leather earpads on.


The bad news is that I really f-ed up putting on the pads on the left side because I had forgotten that you can remove the earcup from the headband assembly and that would have made the process over 9000% easier, and I probably wouldn't have screwed up putting the adhesive on.

: (


Moral of the story, wait for my YouTube video and DO NOT follow what I do in the middle of it.

 

[rx79ez08]

Changing the headpad for Lambda is about the messiest thing you can do. The black sticky goo they called adhesive is stuff made for nightmare.....

 

[TominJapan]

Many thanks this is what I guessed, I found out what the orginal fuse is, it is a Japanese NSF ECR fuse, 1.5A 125V 4.6x16mm . Already ordered a new PSU and 250V1.5A 5x20mm fuses and a fuseholder.

Is it Ok to cut off the pigtails close to the fuse but keep the existing pigtails in place and then Solder the fuseholder on the pigtails of the blown fuse.I really want to avoid to solder on the PCB itself....

Some people seem to experience fuse problems when ordering online from Japan. Can fuses simply break for mechanical reasons during shipping? For me it's just the wire inside the fuse that was disrupted..

 

[Chris J]

Some people seem to experience fuse problems when ordering online from Japan. Can fuses simply break for mechanical reasons during shipping? For me it's just the wire inside the fuse that was disrupted..

Yes, it's possible.
I've seen it happen.

 

[miceblue]

Changing the headpad for Lambda is about the messiest thing you can do. The black sticky goo they called adhesive is stuff made for nightmare.....

I know right? I was like "I thought there was supposed to be tape holding this together....what is this scary black voodoo stuff?"




I still can't believe I screwed up on camera... T_T

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqsEQIsiGPk[/video]

 

[DrForBin]

hello,
 
@miceblue, thanks for posting this. know it was a bummer to realize the screw-up, but you've saved a lot of folks a lot of grief.
 
thanks!!!

 

[Stax-i-nox]

Looking for info on the "Golden" Series STA-12S.....what is the difference between that model and a normal 12S?  Thanks

 

[mechgamer123]

Sweet. I got in a pair of SR-Lambda Spirits this week with the SRM-XH amp for less than $300 shipped from Japan. Not bad at all for the price! I'm not sure whether I like the 202 or spirit better but they sound really similar. The spirits don't sound quite as "musical" in the midrange as the original lambda SB as I'd hope they would but they do still sound pretty good. If anyone else can pick up a set of these for cheap, they're definitely worth the money as an intro set of 'stats!

 

[bikeaudioguy]

I am in need of some help and guidance from veteran Stax users.I recently acquired a SR-5/ SRD-6SB set. I have been wanting a Stax set since way back when the store at worked at used to sell them, about 25 years ago!
 
These are wonderful on good recordings. Many of the magic qualities I remember such as speed, detail and transparency. I was told they had seen little use. They do seem to be working quite well in that they come up to full volume in only a few seconds and the channel balance seems spot on. However on quite a few recordings I notice a mid range harshness. It is a raspy distortion in the upper female vocal range. I never hear it on good instrumental jazz or classical recordings, male vocals or even older female vocal recordings. It is particularly prevalent in modern pop recordings.
 
Questions:
 
Could it be the phones are fine and only revealing existing flaws? It seem a bit too widespread and pronounced for that but stranger things have happened.
 
Maybe they are just exaggerating slight problems due to some resonance or other issue?
 
Perhaps there is a real problem. If so, is it likely the phones or the box?
 
How do I take the SR-5 apart without damaging them to inspect the elements for problems?
 
Anything worth checking on the SRD-6SB? Could it be having problems providing the proper bias.
 
Sorry to hit you with so many questions bit they should be easy for someone with a it of experience with these models.
 
FYI I am driving them on a Bryston 3B-ST/Emotiva DA-2 set up with my Squeezebox Touch or Yamaha CDX-1120 as source. I also tried them with other systems with similar results though the sound was of course better with the better gear.
 
Thanks for looking

 

[sweep1057]

I use the SRD6SB with SR Gamma's. Whilst Stax do generally expose flaws in cabling, earth connections, poor recordings, to name but a few; the SRD6SB and attached Stax need to be left connected to an amp that is left on 24/7 to get the best from them. Maybe this is stating the obvious, but new to reading Stax threads myself I've not seen this mentioned very often.
The SRD6SB's 'self biased' aspect means it takes it's bias voltage from the sound signal. You may have to run them with a blast of music for a while before settling down to listen to something, otherwise after an hour or so at moderate levels they may start to quiet down and need another "'boot up the box'" as it were.
I wouldn't advise taking your SR5's apart to inspect elements IMHO this usually creates more problems ."If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"  I wouldn't open up the SRD6SB either, unnless someone else has before you!

 

[padam]

  I am in need of some help and guidance from veteran Stax users.I recently acquired a SR-5/ SRD-6SB set. I have been wanting a Stax set since way back when the store at worked at used to sell them, about 25 years ago!
 
These are wonderful on good recordings. Many of the magic qualities I remember such as speed, detail and transparency. I was told they had seen little use. They do seem to be working quite well in that they come up to full volume in only a few seconds and the channel balance seems spot on. However on quite a few recordings I notice a mid range harshness. It is a raspy distortion in the upper female vocal range. I never hear it on good instrumental jazz or classical recordings, male vocals or even older female vocal recordings. It is particularly prevalent in modern pop recordings.
 
Questions:
 
Could it be the phones are fine and only revealing existing flaws? It seem a bit too widespread and pronounced for that but stranger things have happened.
 
Maybe they are just exaggerating slight problems due to some resonance or other issue?
 
Perhaps there is a real problem. If so, is it likely the phones or the box?
 
How do I take the SR-5 apart without damaging them to inspect the elements for problems?
 
Anything worth checking on the SRD-6SB? Could it be having problems providing the proper bias.
 
Sorry to hit you with so many questions bit they should be easy for someone with a it of experience with these models.
 
FYI I am driving them on a Bryston 3B-ST/Emotiva DA-2 set up with my Squeezebox Touch or Yamaha CDX-1120 as source. I also tried them with other systems with similar results though the sound was of course better with the better gear.
 
Thanks for looking

 
Unfortunately that may be a sign of diaphragm damage which is very common, but it is hard to tell.
You can just reverse the channels (via software or with the interconnect cable) and if you hear the distortion on the other side, then the headphones are fine.
There are also some free test material to test frequency response etc. that you can use before any disassembly. Buf if the drivers are damaged they can be very hard to fix.

 

[bikeaudioguy]

Thanks for the replies. I have read about the SB needing to be on for long periods of time. I have also read that if they come up to full volume in a few seconds as mine do they will not benefit from any more time switched on. I can't say I notice a big difference when run for a long time. I would like to try an non SB to see if they behave differently with it.
 
Reversing the channels is an interesting idea but unfortunately the problem seems even on both sides. Not a great surprise given vocals are usually mixed in mono.