bcowen
Headphoneus Supremus
Alright, give me a few minutes and I will have a couple options for you.
This gives me a nice break up from working on the 124 amp and my transformer winder.
Thanks! Greatly appreciated!
Alright, give me a few minutes and I will have a couple options for you.
This gives me a nice break up from working on the 124 amp and my transformer winder.
Thanks! Greatly appreciated!
John informs me that this amp has way too much gain for you. Please understand that using a CCS on the 6SN7 is going to significantly RAISE the gain. This amp will basically have an input sensitivity of half a volt peak to peak or less than 0.25v rms.
I would probably add in a voltage divider on the input to the amp to lower the volume. At this point the ccs is really only helping with noise and cross talk. The big improvement to be made is the output capacitor. I believe the stock output cap is only 30uf. This is way too small. I would bump it up to 100uf at least. In the schematic below I have 300uf and the phase shift still isn't all that great. As you can see its 15 degrees off at 20hz. With the stock cap in the simulation it is closer to 50 degrees off.
Just an additional note about that volume pot.snip
I think what I need to do next is get the volume pot swapped out and see if that helps with the gain issue. I have an Alps to put in, and it probably goes without saying that the pot that's in there isn't much to speak of in a $200 retail amp.
Just an additional note about that volume pot.
You already have a 200KΩ pot (according to the schematic) and changing it to a lower Ω one isn't going to help.
And finding a higher value pot might help but you really should to go with the voltage divider that Tjj mentioned in his previous post.
And while a better quality pot is a good idea, the voltage divider will lower the input signal level so the pot will be usable in it's sweet spot (9-3)…
And it would be WAY easier to implement since it only involves 2 resistors, or you could add a stereo pot and 'dial in' the amount of signal attenuation and then just leave it alone.
The other 'option' would be to lower the overall gain of the amp, which is a MUCH more involved process and kinda asks the question of why, based on the complexity of trying to improve a $200 amp.
Just a passing thought or 2.
JJ
Take one for the team!200k? Do you mean 100k x 2? If so, cool. If not, you're confusing me (which isn't hard).
Changing the volume pot will require a little more, um, balls than I originally thought. What's in there has an 8 pin connection so I can't use the existing circuit board as the Alps has 6 pins and the spacing wouldn't line up even if the pin assignment did. I'll have to don my big boy pants and solder the wires directly to the Alps pins. And I'm a bit mystified with the readings I get on the existing pot. Pins 1, 3 and 4 are wiper, signal, and ground, but I can't figure out exactly what pin 2 is doing. Referenced off of any of the other 3 pins, it reads the same at 47k full CCW rotation, and 49.5k at full CW rotation. I haven't pulled the 'assembly' out yet, so maybe it will become obvious when I can better see the board traces.
But tell me about this voltage divider thing. Sounds like a great solution. Easy enough to explain here? I have a box full of resistors, and only $200 at risk. LOL!
200k? Do you mean 100k x 2? If so, cool. If not, you're confusing me (which isn't hard).
Changing the volume pot will require a little more, um, balls than I originally thought. What's in there has an 8 pin connection so I can't use the existing circuit board as the Alps has 6 pins and the spacing wouldn't line up even if the pin assignment did. I'll have to don my big boy pants and solder the wires directly to the Alps pins. And I'm a bit mystified with the readings I get on the existing pot. Pins 1, 3 and 4 are wiper, signal, and ground, but I can't figure out exactly what pin 2 is doing. Referenced off of any of the other 3 pins, it reads the same at 47k full CCW rotation, and 49.5k at full CW rotation. I haven't pulled the 'assembly' out yet, so maybe it will become obvious when I can better see the board traces.
But tell me about this voltage divider thing. Sounds like a great solution. Easy enough to explain here? I have a box full of resistors, and only $200 at risk. LOL!
@bcowen if it ain't broke don't fix it!A voltage divider is just two resistors in series. You put your audio input at the top and you take your output from the middle of the two resistors. Two resistors of the same value (say 50K) will reduce your volume by half.
Its basically a fixed value potentiometer. If you google voltage divider, you will find some really nice write ups about the science of the device.
-------------
Pin 2 might be a second ground for shielding?
I honestly wouldn't screw with any of this. I would put humpty dumpty back together and sell it off while you can still get most of your money back. You just don't have the space in the chassis to fix the problems plaguing this design.
Just build yourself a better amp. If you are willing to solder and get your hands dirty, then why not? If you tell me what you want, I can even put together a schematic for you.
@bcowen if it ain't broke don't fix it!
Well, D'Oh…200k? Do you mean 100k x 2? If so, cool. If not, you're confusing me (which isn't hard).
Changing the volume pot will require a little more, um, balls than I originally thought. What's in there has an 8 pin connection so I can't use the existing circuit board as the Alps has 6 pins and the spacing wouldn't line up even if the pin assignment did. I'll have to don my big boy pants and solder the wires directly to the Alps pins. And I'm a bit mystified with the readings I get on the existing pot. Pins 1, 3 and 4 are wiper, signal, and ground, but I can't figure out exactly what pin 2 is doing. Referenced off of any of the other 3 pins, it reads the same at 47k full CCW rotation, and 49.5k at full CW rotation. I haven't pulled the 'assembly' out yet, so maybe it will become obvious when I can better see the board traces.
But tell me about this voltage divider thing. Sounds like a great solution. Easy enough to explain here? I have a box full of resistors, and only $200 at risk. LOL!
Well, D'Oh…
It is a 100KΩ pot (my bad) not a 200KΩ one.
And my guess for that 4th connection on the pot connector board is, it’s a ground connection to the body of the pot itself.
And changing out the pot would (or could) be a pia, but then it might just slip right on in too.
But it will take a fair amount of 'practical experience' to determine either way.
And if you don't mind making an example of a true Frankenstein amp and loosing any and all resale value, heh it could be a learning experience in DIY with indeterminate net results.
But then those are the chances and challenges of 'customizing' audio gear.
Of course if you REALLY want to dive into the DIY swimming pool take Tjj's offer and take this opportunity to dive headfirst into the deep end.
Or you could start out 'easier' by going with one of Nelson Pass's starving student amps or go full tilt and build on from scratch.
I mean ya gotta start somewhere, right?
hahahahahahahahahahahahaha.
JJ
Ya know…More like if it is so broken that even if you fix it it still won't be worth much, don't fix it.
Gimme a few minutes, and I will show you what an OTL can be like.
Im gonna have to get back to that later. Like so many other things I do, I started looking into it and figured out I came up with kind of a neat circuit. I need to test it before I put it up online and risk having someone electrocute themselves.
ps this is not medical advice, this is not a cure for what ails anyone, nor should anyone stick their fingers in the wall socket, just because…
hahahahahahahahahaha