[OscarPaz]

I've tried to describe the issue and a "workaround" here and here.

Thanks @MaxSong, missed that one! When I tried to play Spotify Premium for the first time, I only heard some kind of static noise, not music at all! However, a quick search also led me to that GitHub repo with instructions on how to set up PulseAudio for BTR3-like devices. The solution is not ideal, though.

But... I went ahead and installed PipeWire and now it all works well automagically! No need to configure anything to resample original signal up/down to 48kHz. (I'm also on Manjaro, btw).

Spotify, for instance, just plays naturally thru the BTR3K connected via USB. And regarding sound quality, now we are talking!, much better. Still capped at 48kHz/16bit, and not sure why @FiiO took this route for USB connection since the AK4377A seems to support up to 192kHz/32bit (master mode) or 384kHz/32bit (slave mode)... perhaps just because of battery life? But well, usually not very important for most recordings.

I checked my device and I'm on firmware v1.2, so would need to update it too. Unfortunately, I would need of a Windows PC for that task... not nice!

 

[BenF]

I couldn't resist...

 

[OscarPaz]

I couldn't resist...

Update the thread title.

 

[Rocker678]

HUGE PROBLEM!! Guys im so disappointed.... basically my left earphone is making a weird metallic/electric sound in the bass frequencies... i dont know what to do. Did the same thing happen to anyone? Help me, im desperate... Thank you. I bought them 4 months ago... they are new, they never fell, i dont know what happened.

 

[BenF]

... And regarding sound quality, now we are talking!, much better.

So how do you feel about BTR3K+Pro 82 compared to your other sources now?

...Still capped at 48kHz/16bit, and not sure why @FiiO took this route for USB connection since the AK4377A seems to support up to 192kHz/32bit (master mode) or 384kHz/32bit (slave mode)... perhaps just because of battery life? But well, usually not very important for most recordings.

BTR3K is using the built-in USB interface of CSR8675, while BTR5 is using a separate XMOS USB interface - it requires more space and is more expensive - hence the omission from the smaller and cheaper BTR3K.

 

[jasswolf]

I couldn't resist...

Ok so they are 50mm drivers... so this is related to the HyperX Cloud Flight?

Initial sound impressions? They seem to have the kind of pads that are generally recommend for a pad swap on the Flight as well (microfibre vs the stock fake leather).

 

[BenF]

Ok so they are 50mm drivers... so this is related to the HyperX Cloud Flight?

They may be related, but different. Although Cloud Flight/CloudX Flight/Cloud Flight S are all 50mm and 32ohm, none of them are 96dB/mW.
Looks more like a 50mm variant of Pro 82/GM200 driver, which is very encouraging.
The 53mm driver in FLIT/RISE didn't sound too good.

Initial sound impressions? They seem to have the kind of pads that are generally recommend for a pad swap on the Flight as well (microfibre vs the stock fake leather).

Definite improvement over FLIT.
You'll have to wait until they burn-in over the weekend for more details.

 

[OscarPaz]

So how do you feel about BTR3K+Pro 82 compared to your other sources now?

Busy week, will post impressions soon. I can anticipate some “good” findings…

Edit: Also, I got the balanced cable from AE.

 

[BenF]

HUGE PROBLEM!! Guys im so disappointed.... basically my left earphone is making a weird metallic/electric sound in the bass frequencies... i dont know what to do. Did the same thing happen to anyone? Help me, im desperate... Thank you. I bought them 4 months ago... they are new, they never fell, i dont know what happened.

Is this your second one? You got the first one on December 10th.

Driver can't just change for no reason, it had to be subjected to an outside force - either mechanical or electrical.
Sometime an electrical spike can go from your electrical outlet through DAC/Amp and damage the headphones.
Or it could just be a result of bad amp design, as previously happened with some old Schiit amps.

Can you measure input resistance of both channels? If the left channel is much lower than the right one, this could be a sign of electrical damage. Not that there is anything you can do about it...

Luckily, you can use the 4$ coupon in the first post to purchase the genuine Pro 82 v2 replacement.

 

[Rocker678]

Is this your second one? You got the first one on December 10th.

Driver can't just change for no reason, it had to be subjected to an outside force - either mechanical or electrical.
Sometime an electrical spike can go from your electrical outlet through DAC/Amp and damage the headphones.
Or it could just be a result of bad amp design, as previously happened with some old Schiit amps.

Can you measure input resistance of both channels? If the left channel is much lower than the right one, this could be a sign of electrical damage. Not that there is anything you can do about it...

Luckily, you can use the 4$ coupon in the first post to purchase the genuine Pro 82 v2 replacement.

How do i measure input resistance? Which is the genuine Pro 82 v2 replacement? However, im using it with two different dac/amp and the problem seems to be in both devices, so i dont really know what to say. No its always the pair that i bought on december, yes i meant 6 months ago, not 4, my bad. As amp/dac i'm using the Lusya SA9023A + ES9018K2M, the sound is more like a vibration, a metallic vibration.

​

 

[BenF]

How do i measure input resistance?

You have to use a multimeter to measure resistance between ground and each channel.

Also check that there is no short circuit between the two channels.

Which is the genuine Pro 82 v2 replacement?

It's the proper Pro 82 v2, sold by the TakstarAudio store - link in the first post. Many other stores sell v0.9/v1.

As amp/dac i'm using the Lusya SA9023A + ES9018K2M, the sound is more like a vibration, a metallic vibration.

Another possibility is that some dust/hair got into the driver.

 

[Rocker678]

How do i measure input resistance? Which is the genuine Pro 82 v2 replacement? However, im using it with two different dac/amp and the problem seems to be in both devices, so i dont really know what to say. No its always the pair that i bought on december, yes i meant 6 months ago, not 4, my bad.

You have to use a multimeter to measure resistance between ground and each channel.

Also check that there is no short circuit between the two channels.



It's the proper Pro 82 v2, sold by the TakstarAudio store - link in the first post. Many other stores sell v0.9/v1.


Another possibility is that some dust/hair got into the driver.

Yes, TakstarAudio store, thats the one i bought, i knew thanks to this forum that the version that i had to buy was the one from TakstarAudio store, the v2. So the pair is the right one. Hair or dust? Uhm, should i disassemble the headphones and look inside? So i have to buy a multimeter/tester, right? EDIT: Ok i have done the test with the multimeter and everything is good, as i said its more like a vibration, as if the driver vibrates, i dont know why.

 

[BenF]

Boom

 

[BenF]

Wow, I have just noticed that we have crossed 4000 posts on the previous page!
This thread is still running full speed after 4 years - that's one hell of a staying power!

 

[peskypesky]

Wow, I have just noticed that we have crossed 4000 posts on the previous page!
This thread is still running full speed after 4 years - that's one hell of a staying power!

well, as far as I know, there are no better headphones under $100, so it should just keep getting longer!