SR60-Mod
Jun 28, 2011 at 5:01 AM Post #4,878 of 5,004


Quote:
when I solder? or when i heat it to take the cups apart? cuz the soldering isn't even on the driver itself right?
 

 
Oh it's just common sense, just be quick about your soldering, don't just park the iron in the solder puddle and boil it for no reason. The solder is on a contact pad on the back of the driver, just touch it and pull slightly and once it's hot enough the stock wiring will lift off once the solder is melted. Then you you can use the soldering wick to soak up any solder. There are some really handy tutorials for how to do soldering perfectly. The first time I learned to solder it was actually building an arcade joystick which involves like 2 hours of soldering. It's pretty easy and it's actually kind of fun!
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4&feature=related
 
Feel free to PM me with any questions man, I'd be glad to help you!
 
 
 
Jun 28, 2011 at 5:28 AM Post #4,880 of 5,004


Quote:
I am sorry, they are not in sale.
 
 


Cabillas, perdona mi Portuñol
eek.gif

 
La pregunta de Radio és quanto han custado (antes de hagotar)
 
 
 
Jun 28, 2011 at 7:28 AM Post #4,883 of 5,004
Cabillas, is it just the aluminium you're sold out of? I'd be interested in a pair of those wooden inners if you're selling separately
 
Jun 28, 2011 at 8:01 AM Post #4,885 of 5,004


Quote:
cabillas, could you tell me when you get them back in stock? i'd be very interested.
thanks

Judging from what I've seen on the spanish forum, it works on a group-buy basis. But Cabillas will chime in for sure.
 
 
 
 
Jun 28, 2011 at 8:47 AM Post #4,886 of 5,004
Hello all,
  I have found an alternative to Dynamat for a fraction of the price. They are both made from butyl rubber with the exact same consistancy. I have used the stuff on my Grado's with much success. It's called Handitak and could be found vitually everywhere in the adhesives section or school supply section of most stores. You probably could get fancy and layer it with foil if needed. Alone, Handitak gives a lot of mass to the spider to shore up any vibrations. Here is a link-
 
http://www.amazon.com/SUPER-HT2-48-Handi-Tak-Reusable-Adhesive/dp/B00009V3VQ
 
 
Happy modding
 
Jun 28, 2011 at 9:23 AM Post #4,887 of 5,004


Quote:
Hello all,
  I have found an alternative to Dynamat for a fraction of the price. They are both made from butyl rubber with the exact same consistancy. I have used the stuff on my Grado's with much success. It's called Handitak and could be found vitually everywhere in the adhesives section or school supply section of most stores. You probably could get fancy and layer it with foil if needed. Alone, Handitak gives a lot of mass to the spider to shore up any vibrations. Here is a link-
 
http://www.amazon.com/SUPER-HT2-48-Handi-Tak-Reusable-Adhesive/dp/B00009V3VQ
 
 
Happy modding



That's a nice option - especially for those who are having trouble locating Dynamat in their areas.  For me, though, I like the stealth look of the dark cavity of the insides of the cups - so, I'm a bit partial to using the black Dynamat material.  Good find, though.
 
 
Jun 28, 2011 at 9:31 AM Post #4,888 of 5,004


Quote:
 
the putting a bubble of solder on the cables first -or- the solder upon an old solder bubble?


uhm, both... That is not really how you are supposed to solder. I don't really like the looks of your solder joints at all James.
 


Quote:
So then what happens to the white part? are the wires actually underneath the white? or is the white just a spacer?

 
 
You don't touch it :)


Quote:
yup, and do not overheat the driver.
 


+1 which you will not do... if you don't mess around and go really slow, just make your moves as quick as you can while remaining accurate and you will be fine.
 
 
Quote:
 
Oh it's just common sense, just be quick about your soldering, don't just park the iron in the solder puddle and boil it for no reason. The solder is on a contact pad on the back of the driver, just touch it and pull slightly and once it's hot enough the stock wiring will lift off once the solder is melted. Then you you can use the soldering wick to soak up any solder. There are some really handy tutorials for how to do soldering perfectly. The first time I learned to solder it was actually building an arcade joystick which involves like 2 hours of soldering. It's pretty easy and it's actually kind of fun!
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4&feature=related
 
Feel free to PM me with any questions man, I'd be glad to help you!
 
 



Yup, what he said.. no boiling solder :)

 
 
Jun 28, 2011 at 9:37 AM Post #4,889 of 5,004
Tell ya what guys... After some more time last night and this morning. I really think I prefer my bloodwood sr80i's to the mspros. I can't really make sense of it. I think the mspros sound better when I'm A/Bing back in forth.. but the slightly more laid back sr80i's appeal more to me when I listen to half an album and then switch.. They just play with my whole library better than the mspros. (which are still great headphones, I wouldn't have a problem recommending them). 
 
It might be my source... It is known to be a more harsh source, so that could explain my willingness to lose a slight bit of detail for the smoothness that my bloodwoodies provide... I'm not sure if I should pin the difference in sound on the bigger cups, or the drivers. I don't really know short of taking apart the mspros, Which i won't be doing :)
 
Jun 28, 2011 at 9:59 AM Post #4,890 of 5,004
 
Quote:
I keep on PMing Bila but he doesn't respond.
He's probably never going to give me back my SR-225 headphones.
 
OK, I can see where Bill running into issue with cutting cups could be a problem - based on the demand and the issues he's experienced - along with time as there's only so much in one day.  However, keeping a man's set of SR-225 headphones for such a period of time?  That's just HORRIBLE
mad.gif


 

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