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SR60-Mod
Mar 27, 2011 at 10:48 PM Post #2,567 of 5,004
 
wje said:
Bilavideo,
 
That would be me.  I have a pair of virgin SR325 Grados.  These are not the "i" model.
Click to expand...

 
PM me.  I have some experimental liners you can use to woody up what you have.  I'd be interested in your objective impressions.  The HF2 takes the wood to the very end of the shell, leaving almost none of the aluminum exposed.  I'd like to hear your impressions of a wooden liner that doesn't uses a slightly different set of proportions so that the wood isn't overpowering the aluminum.
 
Mar 28, 2011 at 12:03 AM Post #2,569 of 5,004


Quote:
bilavideo said:
 
 
PM me.  I have some experimental liners you can use to woody up what you have.  I'd be interested in your objective impressions.  The HF2 takes the wood to the very end of the shell, leaving almost none of the aluminum exposed.  I'd like to hear your impressions of a wooden liner that doesn't uses a slightly different set of proportions so that the wood isn't overpowering the aluminum.
Click to expand...

 
Got it.  I've responded to your PM.  It will be very interesting to see how this all pans out.  While the 325s are nice to look at, I'm finding the "factory" sound a bit less than stellar at the moment.  Well, at least in comparison to modified Grados, that is. 
 
 
 
Mar 28, 2011 at 1:47 AM Post #2,572 of 5,004


Quote:
sml1226 said:
So does that pop out just like the "partial liberation" on any of the other models? Looks like it should.
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Nope, check out these pics:
 
First, you have to pry around the rim with a screwdriver or similar shaped object, and it will separate from the clips like so:
 

 
However, the top is still attached the the bulge coming out the side of the cup that you saw in the original pic (the bulge is what was attached to the headband, I just broke it off). I couldn't figure out where the clips were holding that bulge on, so I just snapped the front plate off of the bulge part, and you're left with the driver glued to the front plate, like so:

 
You're also left with an empty housing, which looks like this:

 
Then you just have to detach the driver from the front plate and you end up with this:

 
They say the drivers are the same as the SR-60 drivers, but I think they might use SR60 drivers that might have some cosmetic defect, or are just more careless with the iGrado drivers than the SR-60. If you look at the back of my driver, in the pic below, you will see that they did a poor soldering job; they were careless with the soldering iron and melted some of the plastic near the solder pads. I think the drivers sound fine, but I haven't had a chance to put them in some real housings yet, so only time will tell.

 
Hope this was helpful for some of you.
 
Mar 28, 2011 at 2:05 AM Post #2,573 of 5,004
Thanks for all the advice on the pads. I'm going to give the bowls a shot and see how it sounds.
smily_headphones1.gif

 
 
Mar 28, 2011 at 2:06 AM Post #2,574 of 5,004
That was a pretty clean extraction.  If you want to get the plastic assembly  apart a little more easily, you might take a screwdriver and unscrew the screw holding it together.  It's in that big knobby area you ended up breaking off.  I can remember how hard it was for me to get the whole thing apart until I realized there was a screw in there.
 
Mar 28, 2011 at 2:15 AM Post #2,575 of 5,004
hmmm why are some grado drivers have grey/silver backplates? mine, SR80i, have black... and my diaphragm is foggy white, not clear... its like s***n...
 
Mar 28, 2011 at 2:35 AM Post #2,576 of 5,004


Quote:
bilavideo said:
Have you got a buzzing yet?  Vented drivers, particularly on plastic Grados, get a buzzing during heavy bass.  It gets worse when you move to aluminum shells, where the effect is even more distressing.  It's the center of the driver, where the magnet and voice coil sit, getting hammered by drivers that now have plenty of airflow.  I fixed my issues by slapping on plenty of Dynamat.  I doubled down on the stuff and got sweet relief. 
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Well, I'll be using Dynamat on them when I get my package from you, but right now I'm using Blu-Tack and covering the entire back. But here's the thing, the left phone sounds just awesome (I can't even imagine how good they'll sound once I get them woodied up!) but the right is just distorted to the point of being close to unlistenable...and just now when I was trying to figure out what was wrong, it went totally silent. I played with the cable to no effect. Then, I just gave it a bit of a tap, and it kicked back in, but it's still distorted. What is going on here? I can't see any problems...obviously I can't see the driver perfectly since they aren't liberated, but I can't peek any problems, and I don't know how they would happen anyway.
 
Man, this sucks! I've got a new amp/DAC coming as well as wooden shells from Bill and this is happening! :frowning2: Does anyone have any clues? Mods that have been done are: quarter modded HD414 pads, removed the white cloth, 10 holes vented, Blu-Tack on driver back, grills replaced with aluminum mesh and the crappy silver paint taken off for a nice all flat black look.
 
I think it's gotta be the paint removal. It was keeping the bass tight, obviously.
 
Mar 28, 2011 at 2:38 AM Post #2,577 of 5,004
The silver paint of the driver was removed? Why?
 
Mar 28, 2011 at 2:43 AM Post #2,578 of 5,004


Quote:
bilavideo said:
That was a pretty clean extraction.  If you want to get the plastic assembly  apart a little more easily, you might take a screwdriver and unscrew the screw holding it together.  It's in that big knobby area you ended up breaking off.  I can remember how hard it was for me to get the whole thing apart until I realized there was a screw in there.
Click to expand...



Thanks Bill, it was super easy to get them out, even without the screw tip haha. How did you get access to the screw? Do you just have to pop off some cover on that knobby area? It looks like I was too eager to get them out and didn't fully think through the process!
 
Mar 28, 2011 at 2:50 AM Post #2,579 of 5,004


Quote:
melvins said:
The silver paint of the driver was removed? Why?
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Haha, no, no. The silver on the outside of the cups, and the 'L' and 'R'. It was coming off already and looked like trash. I was kidding when I said I thought it had an effect on the sound.
 
 
Mar 28, 2011 at 2:56 AM Post #2,580 of 5,004
ohhh. Gotcha. You must have touched the driver, or something must be stuck in the shell it sounds like. 
 
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