[EddieE]

nickchen,
I did them two at a time but ended up doing them all - I was voicing them for use with jumbos straight onto the unit - how many did you and noXter find worked best with the distancers?

 

[nickchen]

To be honest, we also did all at once. The idea of approaching stepwize came later. Nevertheless, sounds great, much better than a usual MS1K.

 
Won't take long before my Pro gets modded. I remember well the bass of the GS1000 and how I thought "I wish I had that kind of bass in my Pro". Hopefully, I don't get the GS1K's awful mids as well...

 

[EddieE]

Quote:

To be honest, we also did all at once. The idea of approaching stepwize came later. Nevertheless, sounds great, much better than a usual MS1K.

 
Won't take long before my Pro gets modded. I remember well the bass of the GS1000 and how I thought "I wish I had that kind of bass in my Pro". Hopefully, I don't get the GS1K's awful mids as well...

100% agree - it's odd I never thought of combining the two mods but the results have been fantastic.
 
I still have my same old problem with the aesthetics of the MS1000 though...
 
Looking forward to hearing how the Pro/Ultimate hole punching goes!

 

[nickchen]

Quote:

 
I still have my same old problem with the aesthetics of the MS1000 though...
 

You got something wrong there, HPs aren't built for looks, and the trend goes towards mirror-less listening places anyway

 

 

[EddieE]

 
[size=x-small]Haha! I guess I'm shallow but I like my headphones to look as good as they sound. [/size]
[size=x-small]Looking at the sprawling "headphone-porn" threads you find on every audio forum I don't think I'm alone![/size]

 
Quote:

You got something wrong there, HPs aren't built for looks, and the trend goes towards mirror-less listening places anyway

 

 

[luvs2squizz]

But how do you glue them back together?

 

[zero7525]

NICE! I can't believe that you have recabled an sr 60. It looks amazing too. In the long run, I would recable and woody my sr 225. That would cure my urge to upgrade for a while.

 

[Bilavideo]

Woodies are next.  I'm retooling to create some woody shells.  The only catch is that I don't want to use the plastic cages the drivers are housed in.  I'd rather connect them as directly as possible to the wood.  When I go that route, I'm going to use matching metal grills fore and aft.
 
In the meantime, I've got another item for my wish list.  I contacted onlinemetals.com for a price on an aluminum housing 40mm in diameter and 50mm deep.  We'll see how that goes.
 

 
 
For now, the latest upgrade is to swap out the comfies for jumbos, which I've borrowed from my PS1000s.  This is a nice choice for acoustic material but is overkill with electronica, especially after upgrading to silver in the cabling.  The silver already brings out a wealth of details that blow my mind.  With the silver, the jumbos are not necessary to capture that HF detail, which keeps surprising me.  One thing I CAN say about the combination of full driver venting and silver: These cans still have tremendous kick, even with jumbos.  The HF2 has kick with bowls but doesn't quite make it to jumbos with that kick intact.  Nothing short of the GS1000 does - but these do.

 

[Bilavideo]

GOING BUTTONLESS
 
As a follow-up to the issue of a slight sibilance with the jumbos, I traced the issue to the back button and the plastic rear grill.  Intent on at least removing the button for now, the button resisted arrest so I nuked the whole grill.  This leaves the SR60s backless - for now - but the jumbo sibilance is gone, giving new meaning to the phrase, "Don't make me go back there."

I'm currently shopping for more airflow-friendly grill replacements.  Lowe's wasn't much help.  Tomorrow, I'll scout out Home Depot.  For now, I think I'll just enjoy Dizzy Gillespie's "Man from Monterey."

 

[ThermL]

I was pretty pleased with some charcoal black screen replacement patches I got from home depot, I think they look quite good.
 
 

 
However, next time I think about it I might look for em' in silver, the grills just feel more right with the silver than the charcoal black. I think this McMaster part number is what i'm looking for so next time I need to order off of them i'll give this a try. Part# 85385T847

It's a stainless steel woven mesh much like the kind you see on some of the higher end grados 

 

[baka1969]

Oh man! I keep eyeballing my poor innocent 225i. I have ten thumbs, two left hands and the dexterity of an elephant trying to text message. I'd almost certainly destroy something.


The one question I do have is, wouldn't the steam used to open the rear housing damage the driver or wires in any way? I'd really like to woody mine and add a nice headband. Maybe Blu-Tack the back of the driver. A recable is out of the question.


Keep up the good work!

 

[EddieE]

Quote:

Oh man! I keep eyeballing my poor innocent 225i. I have ten thumbs, two left hands and the dexterity of an elephant trying to text message. I'd almost certainly destroy something.


The one question I do have is, wouldn't the steam used to open the rear housing damage the driver or wires in any way? I'd really like to woody mine and add a nice headband. Maybe Blu-Tack the back of the driver. A recable is out of the question.


Keep up the good work!

 
[size=x-small]No not at all. I was scared of this for a long time but think logically about how many Grado owners have opened theirs in the past and nothing bad has happened. I'm glad I went for it, the second you open your phones and start fiddling around they really become yours in a way a receipt for purchase cannot achieve.[/size]
 
[size=x-small]It's easy, it works, and it will not damage your phones I promise you![/size]

 

[Yoga Flame]

Or you could buy a nice used SR60 for practice first... 

 

[Yoga Flame]

Quote:

But how do you glue them back together?

Blu-tack is great for that. Or just use your favorite plastics glue if you want it to be permanent. Grado uses hot glue/melt, I believe.

 

[MarcusP]

Which is safer?
Hairdryer from the sides or......... using the steam?