SR60-Mod
Jun 17, 2011 at 10:17 PM Post #4,534 of 5,004


Quote:
hmm no posts from bilavideo in awhile. I was expecting him to be a bit more active as he is a teacher and his school finished last week. I hope all is well.



he sent my my cups last week and arrived this monday, at home, im not home until 2 weeks more. and I know from at least 1 other mmeber that got his too. so he has most def been shipping stuff.
 
Jun 18, 2011 at 8:41 AM Post #4,539 of 5,004
I've been wondering, what with the spate of mushroom-style cups, has anyone ever tried building a cup emulating the dimensions of the GS1000 (which seems to have a shorter top/smaller-diameter hole)?
 
Jun 18, 2011 at 10:03 AM Post #4,540 of 5,004


Quote:
has anyone ever tried building a cup emulating the dimensions of the GS1000 (which seems to have a shorter top/smaller-diameter hole)?


Yes, Bilavideo has.  His latest incarnations of cups - which he posted a few pictures of his cups using different wood materials can be viewed 3 or 4 pages back in this thread.
 
In regards to the question of desoldering the Grado wires before liberating the drivers, I should have clarified my comments a bit better.  In most cases, it will depend on the type and design of the wooden cup that you'll be moving to.  Some of the cup designers have worked around the issue of wires and allow you to assemble the cups via 2 pieces during your modification process.  When it comes to the Cabillas cups, they have a distinct hole drilled into the housing that you'll need to feed your wires through.  By doing this, the wires have to be desoldered and then fed through the wood cups and then resoldered to the drivers.  Also, that is where one would put on some cable ties around the wires on the inside of the cups to prevent the wires from being pulled from the cup housing and wrecking the soldered connection to the driver.
 
 
Jun 18, 2011 at 10:34 AM Post #4,542 of 5,004
 
 
Quote:
So I decided that I need to do something with my Mahogany cups.

They are slowly coming together, I really like the finish of Mahogany it looks really classy :) I prefer the matte finish.

Nice cups sir.  Mahogany is my absolute favorite as well.  Very attractive on top of being a good sonic wood.  Not the easiest wood to work with though.  
 
Jun 18, 2011 at 11:56 AM Post #4,543 of 5,004


Quote:
So I decided that I need to do something with my Mahogany cups.
They are slowly coming together, I really like the finish of Mahogany it looks really classy :) I prefer the matte finish.


I like your cups Mouse. I recently got to spend a week with some Mahogany cups. I had the use of an MS Pro for a week and really enjoyed and appreciated the signature.
 
 
 
Jun 18, 2011 at 1:36 PM Post #4,544 of 5,004


Quote:
What do you guys use to desolder? 


I used to have some braided copper string from Radio Shack that I used to use.  I'd heat up the solder and then "wick" the solder away from the connection with the copper braid.  However, they no longer carry that product in their stores - but, only on the Web.  So, the other night, I bought a de-soldering bulb.  The idea is to heat up the solder, then use the bulb to suction the solder away from the connection.  The bulb didn't work as well as I liked.
 
Fortunately, I was just heating up the solder to disconnect the wires, then reconnect the wires.  So, I just softened the solder, removed the wires.  Then, when it came time to reconnect them, I just reheated the old solder and attached the wires.
 
Jun 18, 2011 at 1:40 PM Post #4,545 of 5,004
What do you guys use to desolder? the last mod i make i cutted off the cable and solder the new one upon the already existing bubbles


To prevent contamination. The existing bubble will have oxidation on the surface and this can contaminate your joint and possibly the connection if you re-use it by simply reheating it. It's better practice to remove and clean, but that's not to say it "can't" be done...

 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top