SR60-Mod
Oct 31, 2010 at 11:09 PM Post #376 of 5,004
Just tried that, doesn't work. When I suck at the diaphragm there is a crinkle, and it sounds as if the crease is straightened out by the sucking, but once I release the pressure there is another crinkle which sounds as if it just creased back again. Oh what is the hairdryer meant to do, by the way?
 
Nov 1, 2010 at 3:30 PM Post #377 of 5,004
Nightslayer....here's a link: http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/showproj.php?file=grado_prj.htm (hope I've added it right). If you scroll down to the part about fixing a rattling driver it explains a bit about hairdryer usage. Can't remember exactly where I read about the sucking method (sorry) but since it didn't work I could only suggest one more thing before opening up the driver and trying Bilavideo's suggestions.
 
Remove the foam pad and remove the driver assembly from the forks. Have someone hold the driver with both their hands but only so they don't cover either the front grill area or the back vent. Now you slap the driver with both palms at the same time on the front grill and back vent surface. Do this gently at first and then listen, then try again a little harder (but don't do so hard you risk breaking something). The idea is to apply a strong air pressure wave from your palms on both the front and back of the diaphragm at the same time in an attempt to realign things. I don't no if it will work for you. If not I regret I don't have any other suggestions except to take the driver apart.   
 
 
Nov 1, 2010 at 8:10 PM Post #378 of 5,004
Just don't do this naked or with the cord wrapped tightly around - well, we all know what happened to David Caradine.  I guess he never did get his driver uncrinkled before experiencing the ultimate drop-out.  The real question is, would you rather be found wearing a PS1000 or a RS1?
 
Nov 1, 2010 at 10:37 PM Post #379 of 5,004
^LOL
smily_headphones1.gif

 
Nov 2, 2010 at 3:24 PM Post #380 of 5,004
 
"The official word from Grado, and the unofficial word from the Grado surrogates on Headfi, is that each driver in the Grado lineup is different. What they mean by "different" is some kind of state secret. Having taken apart the iGrado, the SR60, the SR60i, the SR80, the SR80i, the SR225, SR225i, the SR325i and the SR325is, I can't give you any meaningful difference between them. The mylar is the same shape and thickness; the magnet is the same size and weight; the frame is the same plastic, with the same felt. If there's a difference, it's in the grill cloth, any doping used on the driver (none of which I ever noticed), the materials of the shell, the use or non-use of damping on the magnet back, the type of cushion used and the amount (and quality) of the wire used in the cable."
 
I talked to the guys over at grado many months ago about getting drivers for a project I was doing (I needed something like 30 drivers, and no I wasn't making speakers) And they closely guard there secrets or that is the place they have there drivers made(exact location) for obvious reasons.
 
However I have two opinions about this first: drivers on the SR line are exactly the same and they are all run through quality control and the best ones are selected for the higher level cans and are matched tighter and the ones that don't quite make the cut get the SR 60s and 80s 120s Etc.
 
Second Drivers used on more expensive lines (RS GS PS) are different from the manufacture because they are given a much tighter requirement for these. I would be interested to know how many ps 1000 drivers dont make the cut and are rejects.
 
There is a similar quality control system in use at the Rameriz Guitar Workshop: All the guitars are assembled and strung up without inlay or rosettes and finish and they are played by allot of local musicians in the assembly line and they are given a rating on something like a 1 - 10, Tens and 11s go on to be Ramerez 1As and better and 8s and 9s concert classicals 7s make good student models or good guitars to put electronics in and 5 and lower sell for less than 1500 dollars lower than a 3 gets reprocessed. With this system you pay more and get more VS a guy that lays out 14,0000.00USD for a guitar that is a total bummer and not as good as a 4000.00 dollar one of the same brand. Or spending all the time to make a great looking guitar that sounds like a 200, dollar one.
 
I am guessing this is a similar system used by grado for the SR line with the aforementioned exception of changing cables and other parts etc. this would also make it really easy for them to step up there sound like the did for the SR60i and the like, along with bigger cables and some better pads to make a SR120i or higher.
 
I MIGHT BE TOTALLY WRONG ABOUT THIS BUT I DOUBT IT.           
 
Nov 2, 2010 at 5:36 PM Post #381 of 5,004
^ That is pretty much EXACTLY my theory as well. I've never been brave enough to say it for fear of flames, but it makes perfect sense.
 
The main differences are around the drivers - number of holes in the felt on the back of the driver - distance of driver to baffle (further away on RS1 and the 1000s), materials surrounding the driver, damping on the magnet plate, cable used, pads used...
 
After that it is just a "rating" of the drivers. If a driver is absolutely perfect - it's a high end Grado. If it's less than perfect it gets graded as anything from 325 right to the bottom.
 
Just a theory of course...
 
Nov 2, 2010 at 7:22 PM Post #382 of 5,004
OK I just want to quote the website with the last 2 comments in mind
I will take out the awards and just list the things that stand out to me. 
 
[size=medium] Variations Between Grado Headphone Models 
 
 Prestige Series
[/size]
[size=medium] SR60i: This headphone has gained “LEGENDARY” status. The SR60 has received rave reviews from around the world and is the most commonly recommended headphone on the market today. The SR60 was the Stereophile’s “PRODUCT OF THE YEAR” in two categories, “The Accessory of Year” and the more prestigious “Budget Component of Year”.
Sound: good bass, excellent resolution, very smooth sound.
  
SR80i: This headphone has all the attributes of the SR60 with improved response.  
Sound: more open sound stage, improved bass response.
  
SR125i: This headphone is receiving the praise that has been reserved for products that cost two to three times the price. 
.
Sound: bass, midrange and treble are all more open.  De-stressing of the diaphragm increases inner detail. Theses headphones have balance and character similar to the RS1i headphones.
  
SR225i: This headphone has closer matched drivers and an improved rear screen that increases airflow by 50%.
Sound:
Closer driver tolerances helps enlarged the sound stage while the more open rear screen helps free the headphones of colorations. The SR225i offers excellent value for the dollar like all Grado headphones.
  
SR325is: 
Sound: The SR325is embodies all the sound benefits of the Signature series, clean open highs, smooth well defined midrange and bass that will rock. The SR325is is an excellent value yielding performance that one would have to spend 3-4 times their price in competing headphones.
  
[/size]
[size=medium] IF you read the Variations between models on there site they tell you what they are doing. More money = better gear.  but it really looks like the basic guts of an sr60 are the same as a 125 at least and the only difference is a real person test them some way and matches them.[/size]
[size=medium]  [/size]
[size=medium] I would be interested to see how the " De-stressed diaphragm" is done.  [/size]
[size=medium]  [/size]
[size=medium]  [/size]
[size=medium]  [/size]
[size=medium] I AM SURE THAT THERE'S ANOTHER SUPER SECRET THING THAT THEY DO TO THERE HIGHER LINE THAT IS SO SIMPLE AND CHEAP TO DO THEY WILL NEVER TELL YOU![/size]
[size=medium]  [/size]
[size=medium] It probably involves alien seeding or human sacrifice and would be hard to replicate. In-fact the Grado people must read this thread and laugh at us. Or they just have higher standards for the divers and they test them to see if they will give you a better range of frequency response.  [/size]
[size=medium]
gs1000.gif
[/size]
[size=medium] THE LEGEND OF THE $60 PS1000 LIVES ON .....IF ONLY IN OUR HEARTS FOR NOW.  [/size]
 
Nov 4, 2010 at 12:40 AM Post #384 of 5,004
Great thread. Just read through the whole thing. Have been looking on Etsy for someone who can turn some wood cups for me. Lots of people make tea light candle holders that are very similar in size and shape: http://www.etsy.com/listing/34920604/woodturned-tea-light-and-holder
 
I just need some decent measurements to send to one of these craftsmen to see if they can do it. Anyone have good measurements? The Headwize ones are a bit confusing. 
 
Nov 4, 2010 at 8:49 AM Post #385 of 5,004
[size=x-small]Headfier Ch4rAss posted up some very precise dimensions with a diagram for an "i" style cups on the Post Your Grado Mods page. [/size]
 
 
[size=x-small][/size]
 
[size=x-small]If you wanted more traditional Grado cups, just remove the top section.[/size]
 
Nov 15, 2010 at 10:04 AM Post #388 of 5,004
I am utterly stumped. I went for a three-day camp, came back from the camp and put on my headphones, and the first thing I noticed was. Wait the sound sounds.. full. Then I realize OHMYGAWD THE BASS. THE BASS IS ACTUALLY THERE. And now I'm wondering why my resoldering of the connections and blowing on the vents and sucking on the vents never worked, but leaving it alone for three days somehow did. Here's to hoping nothing happens to the sound now :)
 
Nov 15, 2010 at 10:13 AM Post #389 of 5,004
The mind is a powerful thing.
 
Quote:
I am utterly stumped. I went for a three-day camp, came back from the camp and put on my headphones, and the first thing I noticed was. Wait the sound sounds.. full. Then I realize OHMYGAWD THE BASS. THE BASS IS ACTUALLY THERE. And now I'm wondering why my resoldering of the connections and blowing on the vents and sucking on the vents never worked, but leaving it alone for three days somehow did. Here's to hoping nothing happens to the sound now :)



 
Nov 15, 2010 at 10:20 AM Post #390 of 5,004


Quote:
The mind is a powerful thing.
 
Quote:
I am utterly stumped. I went for a three-day camp, came back from the camp and put on my headphones, and the first thing I noticed was. Wait the sound sounds.. full. Then I realize OHMYGAWD THE BASS. THE BASS IS ACTUALLY THERE. And now I'm wondering why my resoldering of the connections and blowing on the vents and sucking on the vents never worked, but leaving it alone for three days somehow did. Here's to hoping nothing happens to the sound now :)


 

Eh I'm insulted. If you could see my previous posts you should be able to tell that it goes way beyond placebo, really.
 
 

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