Sony Z1R....listening impressions only
Feb 22, 2019 at 5:49 PM Post #2,626 of 9,634
What would be interesting too was if you tried the Sony/Kimber and could tell a difference from stock.
I'm open to trying, but I honestly think the difference will be so small, and the time to change cables out too great to objectively distinguish.
I have some DIY solid state amps, and changing out things like OPAMPs, makes an immediate noticeable difference.

Maybe if a could A<>B cables w/ <1 second delay I could hear a difference, but when it takes me ~30 seconds I'm left w/ what I think it sounded like, and I honestly couldn't tell any difference.

But a $3 OPAMP changes the character of the sound.

If you don't mind me asking, what's the source for the threaded Z1R/Z7 locking connectors? And, what's your opinion on their quality?
I link all parts here: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/diy-cable-gallery.71148/page-1040#post-14768560
  1. 3.5mm plugs (Pearstone Locking 1/8" TRS Connector): https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=email&A=details&Q=&sku=823882&is=REG
Quality is good, but not as good as stock; screwing in is smooth, but insertion isn't 100% smooth.
If I were to score: Stock = 100%, Pearstone = 92%.
 
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Feb 22, 2019 at 6:17 PM Post #2,627 of 9,634
Feb 22, 2019 at 6:45 PM Post #2,628 of 9,634
I'm open to trying, but I honestly think the difference will be so small, and the time to change cables out too great to objectively distinguish.
I have some DIY solid state amps, and changing out things like OPAMPs, makes an immediate noticeable difference.

Maybe if a could A<>B cables w/ <1 second delay I could hear a difference, but when it takes me ~30 seconds I'm left w/ what I think it sounded like, and I honestly couldn't tell any difference.

But a $3 OPAMP changes the character of the sound.


I link all parts here: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/diy-cable-gallery.71148/page-1040#post-14768560
  1. 3.5mm plugs (Pearstone Locking 1/8" TRS Connector): https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=email&A=details&Q=&sku=823882&is=REG
Quality is good, but not as good as stock; screwing in is smooth, but insertion isn't 100% smooth.
If I were to score: Stock = 100%, Pearstone = 92%.


It’s a fairly big sound difference. Personally I am totally happy as I would not even have pursued the cable option if they weren’t handed to me for free. It just was not part of my goals at the time. Stock cables have bright intense highs and muddy lower midrange and bass. The Kimber smooths out the highs, adds midrange detail and separation. The lower soundstage is expanded out and filled with more detail and sculpture.

It may be a 10-20% change but it’s right where it’s needed; so it’s priceless. Some folks are simply not cable believers. But........you don’t have to be a believer to try one. Just get one and try, if it doesn’t seem to work send it back. That in itself is worth the effort.

It is normal here, you have 50% of the thread who believe in cables and 1/2 that do not.

DAB0D3A9-096F-4C75-B7B7-F656F1621F02.png


Just picked up the MMCX to 4.4mm Kimber for $117 at Stereo Singapore.
https://www.stereo.com.sg/

When you think about it $117 for an aftermarket cable is not that expensive.

https://www.stereo.com.sg/catalogsearch/result/?q=Sony+MUC+
 
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Feb 22, 2019 at 11:13 PM Post #2,629 of 9,634
I'm open to trying, but I honestly think the difference will be so small, and the time to change cables out too great to objectively distinguish.
I have some DIY solid state amps, and changing out things like OPAMPs, makes an immediate noticeable difference.

Maybe if a could A<>B cables w/ <1 second delay I could hear a difference, but when it takes me ~30 seconds I'm left w/ what I think it sounded like, and I honestly couldn't tell any difference.

But a $3 OPAMP changes the character of the sound.


I link all parts here: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/diy-cable-gallery.71148/page-1040#post-14768560
  1. 3.5mm plugs (Pearstone Locking 1/8" TRS Connector): https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=email&A=details&Q=&sku=823882&is=REG
Quality is good, but not as good as stock; screwing in is smooth, but insertion isn't 100% smooth.
If I were to score: Stock = 100%, Pearstone = 92%.

Here is the Kimber. You could always return it if it didn’t blow you away!
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-MUC-B20SB1-SONY-Headphone-cable/dp/B01LRR04F0
 
Feb 22, 2019 at 11:55 PM Post #2,630 of 9,634
My beloved cat cranked volume on amp for a whole day. do you think they are damaged now or probably okay? I hear no problems. Since that amp can drive them wide open with almost zero distortion. You think they may have been damaged or I would hear it. For instance enough voltage into Grado's they just blow, dead. I hear no issue, so probably indeed no issue? Or may have been harmed in the long run?

You can get custom cable made on Ebay better than Axios for like $225-$325. Big difference. Better solid silver OCC and 16 pairs of conductors. do not remember who I bought from but it is better than axios silver. A few folks on ebay will build you whatever will fit in the connectors. Usually 16 pairs max solid 20AWG if they are very skilled. Not even a stiff cable. Mine was outstanding construction but have long since forgot who it was. It even has the screw down connectors. Solid silver of course and 99.999% silver solder too. Sorry I bought axios and MUC now. Mine has double non microphonic techflex and real carbon fiber splitter. Was only about $300 6' if I remember correctly. Only issue is my amp on them has cold solder joint on balanced DIN but I will fix it no problem. Long gone Cullen GCHA amp was the best I have heard with these. I use Darkstar sometimes but too powerful even with switch down get distortion. I feel solid state is this cans friend though.
 
Feb 23, 2019 at 7:59 AM Post #2,631 of 9,634
It’s a fairly big sound difference. Personally I am totally happy as I would not even have pursued the cable option if they weren’t handed to me for free. It just was not part of my goals at the time. Stock cables have bright intense highs and muddy lower midrange and bass. The Kimber smooths out the highs, adds midrange detail and separation. The lower soundstage is expanded out and filled with more detail and sculpture.

It may be a 10-20% change but it’s right where it’s needed; so it’s priceless. Some folks are simply not cable believers. But........you don’t have to be a believer to try one. Just get one and try, if it doesn’t seem to work send it back. That in itself is worth the effort.

It is normal here, you have 50% of the thread who believe in cables and 1/2 that do not.



Just picked up the MMCX to 4.4mm Kimber for $117 at Stereo Singapore.
https://www.stereo.com.sg/

When you think about it $117 for an aftermarket cable is not that expensive.

https://www.stereo.com.sg/catalogsearch/result/?q=Sony+MUC+
and 50 % of those would not respond or who say nothing. i like the 50% cable price option.
the new price vs aftermarket only makes 50/50 trial more likely to occur.haha
 
Feb 23, 2019 at 8:08 AM Post #2,632 of 9,634
i did hear a difference using the unbalanced stock cables versus the balanced on the z1rs and the z7s, using the ta 1z ofcourse and that amazing volumecontrol in 0.5 db steps. using volume as the comparison for changes is more revealingthan time domain switching/sampling. or the dreadfull audiomemory us humans evolved. the more space between the sounds the balanced cables offer is often resolution enough.
 
Feb 23, 2019 at 9:24 PM Post #2,634 of 9,634
My zirs and z7s always sounded dark running in balanced mode from the sony amp/dacs.
when I compared them to my new stax 009s they were night and day.
stax are very bright, until I connected my new srm t8000 and its xlr balanced inputs.
now the stax 009s sound much darker and fuller like the z1r/z7s. what have I done?
 
Feb 23, 2019 at 9:48 PM Post #2,635 of 9,634
My zirs and z7s always sounded dark running in balanced mode from the sony amp/dacs.
when I compared them to my new stax 009s they were night and day.
stax are very bright, until I connected my new srm t8000 and its xlr balanced inputs.
now the stax 009s sound much darker and fuller like the z1r/z7s. what have I done?

I have no clue. Not to brag but I’ve heard a pretty good selection of Stax gear. I thought that the tone was a result of the science behind electrostatic sound reproduction. Sounds like it would be cool to hear. I know the Z1R are slighly dark, but Iike it. Everything I have done with source and headphone cables has made the end result not as muddy; and I have actually finished up I think. As far as I’m concerned the Mythical Unicorn has been found; at least for awhile?

Though a smooth dark Stax responce sounds like heaven, especially if there is detail and soundstage. Maybe you found final perfect audio truth? If such a thing exists? Lol

Sorry off topic.
 
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Feb 23, 2019 at 9:53 PM Post #2,636 of 9,634
But you have balanced choices going out the front of the TA. 3.5mm X two to XLR in. 4.4mm to an XLR X 2 adapter. And finally the XLR4 with a splitter........right?
933E3ABF-EA04-4F94-979A-101822BAC2B0.jpeg



Sorry off topic.
 
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Feb 23, 2019 at 10:03 PM Post #2,637 of 9,634
But you have balanced choices going out the front of the TA. 3.5mm X two to XLR in. 4.4mm to an XLR X 2 adapter. And finally the XLR4 with a splitter........right?


Sorry off topic.
off topic extension: my last setup for the day is not using the TA at all. just the Tascam w balanced output.
I had used the TA into the Tascam monitor. I did not experiment yet with the TAs front connectors.
that is with the srm t8000. I did use the SE only for the srm D10 and it was ok,
 
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Feb 23, 2019 at 10:13 PM Post #2,640 of 9,634
I have a RTA 1/3 octave that is fully balanced. once I hook that up I can see the spectrum of the source and then measure with the cal. mic. the rta does sweeps as well.
of course the low end wont register without the dummy 'head' but the mid highs will-- way off topic.
 
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