You could use an HDMI matrix or splitter which may be simpler and more reliable. However depending on what your AVR supports you may want to manually construct a combined EDID that works best with your devices, and that can be a bit daunting for a first timer.
Smyth Research Realiser A16
This is what I do... I only use my A16 as an audio input device... Don't really want to complicate things by using the Realiser as a HDMI switch.
phoenixdogfan
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I'm the same way. All my switching is done with my LG C1, which fills the bill perfectly. The only input to the A16 is for the HDMI EArc from the C1. I used to also input USB from the PC, but then I switched to Windows 11, and for some reason Smyth's usb driver will not load on it.
You won't get any DTS variant that way on any LG CX, C1 and C2 year models but if you don't care about that it's no big deal. Some of them also botch multichannel PCM though. eARC is great in theory but in practice it's a bad idea to leave the TV in control of anything audio related. Sadly that's the state of eARC today.
How could it become complicated to use Realiser A16 as a switch? Apart from scrolling through all available inputs to the desired one in the main menu, would there be anything else?
@GeorgeA... I just prefer to have my A16 as plug and play as possible. So, by keeping my machine on the global setting of HDMI 1 helps with potential handshake issues... Just trying to eliminate any potential errors or issues before they get to the Realiser. K.I.S.S. method.
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Got it. Thanks. Long live KISS principle!
nvm 
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I've spoken to three friends about this over the weekend...
1st... It is important that you have the Volume limiter enabled. This will automatically lower the volume of the Realiser when the A16 senses clipping/distortion.
2nd... In my experience, the Volume limiter only engages when the LFE signal is to strong for the overall mix... Usually when LFE+10 is enabled... And or when Auro strength is set to the higher values.
Because the HPEQ functions between ~ 500hz and 12khz... The HPEQ has little to no bearing on how the volume limiter functions. Once the Volume limiter settles on a volume with no clipping... You should no longer hear distortion in your headphones... But you may want more volume... So.
If you're like me and want to use LFE+10 and Auro strength at 16... you can counteract the volume limiter by adding an headphone amp or DAC/Amp combo to your chain. This allows you the option of maxing out your headphone amp while using your A16 as a preamp... I NEVER experience clipping or distortion.
There are many inexpensive amp and DAC/amp (JDS, Schiit, Fiio, etc) combos available that will give you better control over your A16 listening experience.
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I will be finally hooking up my A16 and testing it out. I can not wait to have the best surround sound headphone experience ever.
What is the best budget amp / dac to use with the A16?
None? Just use the A16
Not sure there are any best options... But there are lots of options.
I can not wait to try out your custom PRIRs
mrmac
Head-Fier
I’d say it depends on your headphones and how much the need to drive them fully. As it’s been said the A16 is ok for easier to drive headphones. It even has a balanced mode to increase power.
As been discussed above. If you want to listen at high levels, a separate amp is a good idea. Heaps of good once from topping the that have all the power…
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