I agree that Rob makes a good case for SE, especially in the case of HPs. All that extra circuitry is just more tricky to match up. Just the same, there seems to be a fair number of people that claim better staging and other sound benefits from balanced. I've never had the opertunity to A/B the two. But, I'm wondering if balanced might be a bit of an overkill for the 846.
Shure SE846 Impressions Thread
- Thread starter jelt2359
- Start date
phthora
Headphoneus Supremus
I find that for IEMs, balanced tends to make a difference less often and often less of a difference overall. With the 846, I can certainly hear the positive difference that it makes to the refinement of sound (things like soundstage, imaging, and separation, even bass resolution), but the change in FR, while small, is a change in the wrong direction, IMO. I could see preferring SE over balanced because of that. In fact, I prefer using SE on the Black Label over balanced on the DP-X1 for the Shures.
Balanced certainly presents more engineering challenges and I would certainly never assume that balanced amp B is better than single-ended amp C, but I can generally hear and appreciate the difference between the balanced and single-ended amps that I am familiar with, and I prefer balanced, all other things being equal.
JaZZ
Headphoneus Supremus
I wouldn't consider an output impedance of 1 ohm critical myself, but higher impedances may very well affect sound quality – like documented by yourself with the first link. The effect of the filters is quite a bit different and not suitable to compensate impedance related issues. However, thanks for mentioning the (supposedly) effective output impedances of the DP-X1 as 0.5 and 1 Ω, not 16 and 32 Ω.
Now you're reacting rather unobjective and unnecessarily emotionally. In my book plakat is absolutely right in warning against high(er) output impedances with the SE846. Also, balanced drive is a disputed topic. In the case of the Onkyo DP-X1 and other similar designs it seems logical that balanced drive has an advantage that also pays off sonically – given the double DAC configuration and the consequent balanced topography. In other cases balanced designs may not automatically be sonically superior; well-made single-ended DACs without the balanced-drive option may in fact be absolutely equal – if not superior, if you believe Rob Watts.
You're reading the wrong things into the specs. 16 and 32 Ω are the recommended minimum impedances of the attached headphones, not the output impedances – as already mentioned by pthora.
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Outside of going the custom route I couldn't find another high-end iem that offered high levels of noise isolation and comfort, in an almost flush form factor. I use them in the gym, in bed, and under a helmet on my motorbike and they excel in all of these situations. Particularly in the case of on the bike anything bigger would be seriously uncomfortable, and the noise isolation means I don't have to crank the volume any louder than what I would normally listen at.
MichaelYYZ
Head-Fier
I would like to provide some information about a DIY repair that I performed to the case of one of my SE846 IEMs.
Some while ago, while actually travelling on a plane, I noticed that a small part from the right IEM's housing was missing. It was right at the seam between the two halves of the housing, most likely being due to a manufacturing process which had weakened that portion of the housing. Since I had bought the SE846 in February 2014, they were already out of warranty. Indeed, I contacted Shure and they confirmed that they could not help since the IEMs were not repairable.
I was mostly worried that, in the area where the small piece of plastic was missing, there was also a small through hole through which debris could find its way inside the IEM. So, I decided to try to repair it myself.
After researching various glues and fillers, I narrowed down the options to either clear silicone sealant or 'liquid' plastic. I decided to try the latter because of its more similar nature to the acrylic material of the IEM's housing.
The ‘liquid plastic’ I used is a compound called Bondic (https://notaglue.com), which hardens when illuminated with a blue light (similar to dental fillings). It took me approximately one hour of careful, delicate, under-magnifying-glass work. Please refer to the attached photos which show the before (3 photos) and after (2 photos) conditions.
I am posting this information here in case anyone would need DIY advice for similar situations.
My SE846 IEMs work really well and I am very happy with them.
Some while ago, while actually travelling on a plane, I noticed that a small part from the right IEM's housing was missing. It was right at the seam between the two halves of the housing, most likely being due to a manufacturing process which had weakened that portion of the housing. Since I had bought the SE846 in February 2014, they were already out of warranty. Indeed, I contacted Shure and they confirmed that they could not help since the IEMs were not repairable.
I was mostly worried that, in the area where the small piece of plastic was missing, there was also a small through hole through which debris could find its way inside the IEM. So, I decided to try to repair it myself.
After researching various glues and fillers, I narrowed down the options to either clear silicone sealant or 'liquid' plastic. I decided to try the latter because of its more similar nature to the acrylic material of the IEM's housing.
The ‘liquid plastic’ I used is a compound called Bondic (https://notaglue.com), which hardens when illuminated with a blue light (similar to dental fillings). It took me approximately one hour of careful, delicate, under-magnifying-glass work. Please refer to the attached photos which show the before (3 photos) and after (2 photos) conditions.
I am posting this information here in case anyone would need DIY advice for similar situations.
My SE846 IEMs work really well and I am very happy with them.
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Great work! I can barely even see the repair. Awesome advert for notaglueI would like to provide some information about a DIY repair that I performed to the case of one of my SE846 IEMs.
Some while ago, while actually travelling on a plane, I noticed that a small part from the right IEM's housing was missing. It was right at the seam between the two halves of the housing, most likely being due to a manufacturing process which had weakened that portion of the housing. Since I had bought the SE846 in February 2014, they were already out of warranty. Indeed, I contacted Shure and they confirmed that they could not help since the IEMs were not repairable.
I was mostly worried that, in the area where the small piece of plastic was missing, there was also a small through hole through which debris could find its way inside the IEM. So, I decided to try to repair it myself.
After researching various glues and fillers, I narrowed down the options to either clear silicone sealant or 'liquid' plastic. I decided to try the latter because of its more similar nature to the acrylic material of the IEM's housing.
The ‘liquid plastic’ I used is a compound called Bondic (https://notaglue.com), which hardens when illuminated with a blue light (similar to dental fillings). It took me approximately one hour of careful, delicate, under-magnifying-glass work. Please refer to the attached photos which show the before (3 photos) and after (2 photos) conditions.
I am posting this information here in case anyone would need DIY advice for similar situations.
My SE846 IEMs work really well and I am very happy with them.
Must go buy some...
joshnor713
Headphoneus Supremus
Wow, I actually noticed this on my SE846 as well (both earpieces), purchased about the same time as you, and was wondering what to do. It's rather disheartening, because I wasn't too critical on the use of plastic in the beginning, and thought "It doesn't feel premium, but should at least stand the test of time". Guess I was wrong. The seam in the back is a weak point in the design. Shure should stop using plastic. This being the case, I just can't buy another Shure IEM in the future unless they up their earpiece material.
Anyhow, thanks for sharing your solution! I was thinking about using epoxy but may have to try this instead.
MichaelYYZ
Head-Fier
Remember, the key words for doing such repair are careful, delicate, patience. And work using a good quality, powerful magnifying glass.
I also did the following:
The dimensions of the groove in my IEM were approximately 1.2 mm wide by 10.5 mm long.
The durability of the method is still to be determined...but for now I am very happy with the outcome.
I also did the following:
- Did prior tests of the Bondic compound to see how it should be handled, placed and cured.
- Used a small Exacto knife to remove any traces of old adhesive and roughen the exposed surfaces.
- Masked the IEM case with thin, clear Scotch tape along the edges of the groove (to avoid contaminating the case surface with Bondic compound).
- Applied Bondic compound in two subsequent layers and cured each layer before applying the next.
- Put a drop of Bondic compound on a flat plate and used a fine needle to place little amounts of the compound in the groove.
- After the application of each layer, waited a couple of minutes for the compound to settle on its own, before using the blue LED for curing.
- Removed the Scotch tape and gently polished the repair area with a clean microfibre cloth (like those used for eyeglasses).
The dimensions of the groove in my IEM were approximately 1.2 mm wide by 10.5 mm long.
The durability of the method is still to be determined...but for now I am very happy with the outcome.
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@MichaelYYZ That is such a meticulous process that personally I doubt I'd have the patience, or still of hand, to carry out without creating a Franken846.
I'd happily pay £100 for them to be fixed by someone like yourself were they to succumb to damage. There's got to be a business niche there to be filled!
I'd happily pay £100 for them to be fixed by someone like yourself were they to succumb to damage. There's got to be a business niche there to be filled!
cyclops214
100+ Head-Fier
Has anyone ever been shocked In the ear While wearing the SE 846 It just happened to me Two days in a row Yesterday and just now It felt like A little bit of electricity Shot through the tube on the left ear Gave me a little shock Scared the crap out of me I am using Spin fit CP 240 Medium Tips I've had this pair for almost a year And yesterday and today is the first time I've been shocked Well wearing them It was kind a like when you touch Your tongue To a 9 V battery I'm guessing the electricity shot straight through the tube. Just wondering if anyone has had this experience? Or just me.
dafos58
100+ Head-Fier
I also use the SE846 with CP240 tips for a long time, but until now didn't have this experience. Let's hope this will never hapen agian for you, it's not something to get happy about.
Maybe you have a shorting or power problem with whatever source to which you were listening.
joshnor713
Headphoneus Supremus
Great pic. What tips and cable you using?
@joshnor713 Cheers! The tips are Sony (hybrids?), using the bore adaptor that comes with the Spinfit CP240. Cable's the **** 8 core silver plated, which looks like it was made for the 846!
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