Shanling M0 Pro - Ultra-Portable Hi-Fi Player, Now With Balanced Output!

[Astrogoth]

There is no need for soldering to replace the volume wheel. So if you are capable to do basic device disassembly, it can be done.

Please note that currently spare parts are offered by our official Store, not Linsoul anymore.



No update on that.

Can you post a link to that part on your web site please?

 

[Shanling]

Can you post a link to that part on your web site please?

Spare parts purchase is done through our Store Team:

https://store.shanling.com/Shanling-Replacement-Parts-pd522655858.html

 

[Astrogoth]

Spare parts purchase is done through our Store Team:

https://store.shanling.com/Shanling-Replacement-Parts-pd522655858.html

So no link. I see.

 

[Record]

There is no need for soldering to replace the volume wheel. So if you are capable to do basic device disassembly, it can be done. Please note that currently spare parts are offered by our official Store, not Linsoul anymore.

Good to hear! Actually, I was able to find just one disassembly video at YouTube. For the non-Pro version and it clearly shows the volume unit thankfully attached by just a 4 pin ribbon cable and not soldered. The start of the disassembly involves using a suction cup to pull away the display. I assume it's the same for the M0 Pro.
Here's the video and then a person commenting about their repair: Разбираем плеер Shanling M0 Teardown (2019) - Gadget Repair
Commenter at the video page: "I had the same prob, shanling was pretty much bricked without the wheel so I popped it open, and the wheel connector was just floating next to it, it's like a press fit connector over some chip so it doesn't look very stable. I slapped some hot glue by the sides to try and keep it in place." (2022)

Side info: The battery in that unit shows as: 523041HV 3.8V 630mAh 2.39Wh 180522

Before ordering a replacement volume potentiometer unit I may first try opening the player and seeing if readjusting the ribbon cable may help as that has helped me in the past with other devices. For example a phone button, charging port or display.

 

[Record]

Spare parts purchase is done through our Store Team:

https://store.shanling.com/Shanling-Replacement-Parts-pd522655858.html

For other users, that page is just a general page not listing any individual parts for sale but instead the requirement to contact Shanling by email at shop@shanling.com to request a certain part and pay a universal $30 rate.

 

[Record]

You could try to create a script for that.

With all the new players on the market and change of focus, I doubt shanling will launch any new firmware updates for this.

Thanks for the tip. Any ideas to get me started? I'm not a heavy programmer but may be able to get it done if not too difficult. Thanks!
I wish I could just edit the firmware myself. Something like opening a file in a text editor and simply adding .m4b as a recognizable extension.
Or of course if Shanling would just do at least one more firmware update with this easy adjustment.

 

[Astrogoth]

Shanling Rep, can you at least post a YouTube video showing how to fix the volume pot issue IN ENGLISH not Russian. I do not have a suction cup strong enough to disassemble the M0 Pro.

 

[endgame4]

Shanling Rep, can you at least post a YouTube video showing how to fix the volume pot issue IN ENGLISH not Russian. I do not have a suction cup strong enough to disassemble the M0 Pro.

I have not tried it on the M0 Pro but on a regular M0 (and Q1) it is very easy. I used a little suction cup from a phone repair kit. My suction cup looks too small but pulling the screen requires very little force. The plastic latches that keep the screen attached are tiny.

 

[Astrogoth]

I have not tried it on the M0 Pro but on a regular M0 (and Q1) it is very easy. I used a little suction cup from a phone repair kit. My suction cup looks too small but pulling the screen requires very little force. The plastic latches that keep the screen attached are tiny.

Do you have to remove the main board to get to where the volume pot's ribbon cable is loose?

 

[endgame4]

Do you have to remove the main board to get to where the volume pot's ribbon cable is loose?

Sorry, I do not remember if it is on the top or bottom of the mainboard. And it might be different on the M0 Pro.

 

[Astrogoth]

Sorry, I do not remember if it is on the top or bottom of the mainboard. And it might be different on the M0 Pro.

It's on the bottom just like in the Russian video. The two screws holding the main board down are NOT micro Phillips. Maybe micro Torx but I can't be sure. They're that small. Forget the suction cup idea. I pried it apart using an industrial razor blade for cutting carpets. Just pried it up in one corner and the whole thing just poped up. Without the right screwdriver there is no way to access the volume ribbon cable and reseat it. The two screws hold the board down tight. Sitting here pondering the problem.

 

[Shanling]

Shanling Rep, can you at least post a YouTube video showing how to fix the volume pot issue IN ENGLISH not Russian. I do not have a suction cup strong enough to disassemble the M0 Pro.

We have a video showing this replacement process, but it's for internal use for our distributors.

But you can send us email at info@shanling.com and link will be provided.

There is nothing special about the screws used, basic Phillips 1.5 is all you need.

 

[Record]

Volume wheel issue & partial player disassembly.

Example CAUSE of an unresponsive volume wheel mentioned below.

It's a coincidence that you guys are talking about disassembly because I dug into it right after posting that YouTube video that I found during a search.

I composed the entire message below before reading the recent replies.

For Astrogoth, read my post here if you have time but to quickly answer you. It is NOT required to remove the main board. The M0 Pro uses a snap connector, not a slotted connector to connect the assembly to the main board. I mention below a brief summary of the disassembly. See the bold "Volume wheel potentiometer/power button replacement procedure" below. In the 2 photos that I've attached, I fully removed the unit without ever unscrewing the main board (you can see in the first photo that the assembly is lifted out of its small aluminum box housing and yet the board is still screwed in place). And yes, a strong quality suction cup is required unless you have a dedicated super slim metal pry tool sold for phone repair purposes. I use those and it would have worked too but they were at my other location. It took quite a substantial pull and multiple adhesions of the cup to finally pull the display outward.
Like I said below I have a bunch of photos of the opened player and it uses all standard phillips screws to hold the board in place if you're interested in removing it such as for the battery replacement. But again, it is NOT required for replacing the volume wheel assembly.

This is an introduction message before I plan to hopefully make a separate dedicated thread with photos showing a partial disassembly and the experience with the internals of the volume wheel. I will post the link here in this thread. I did not remove the PCB from the player although that is easily done by removing a few screws and a couple of connectors.
For now, I have included 2 photos of the volume wheel potentiometer and power button assembly. In the second photo you can see how the 3 pins did not have enough solder in my opinion and 1 was not fully attached to the contact pad.

So for anyone who cares and is interested in one of these two things or both, the player is not that difficult to disassemble. I used a quality 30mm sucton cup from a hardware store (used on glass and mirrors) on the display and slowly pulled the display away as it is held in places by a few barbed tabs that hook into the body. Thankfully it was not required to remove the factory screen protector and quite amazingly it did not pull away from the suction. It's obviously important to have strong suction so use a quality cup.


Volume wheel potentiometer/power button replacement procedure:

1. All you have to do is use a quality suction cup to pull the display away or a dedicated super slim and durable sheet metal pry tool shim used for cellphone repair.
2. Pull out the volume wheel which is designed to be pulled out with a decent force. Can often be done if you have enough fingernails and a good grip.
3. Use a small set of pliers to unscrew the brass nut holding the volume wheel potentiometer housing to the body and also creating a ground.
4. Then the key step is to use fine point tweezers to pull out the small black shaft pin otherwise the assembly can not be lifted out and away from the player!
5. Then use a toothpick to lift the ribbon cable board connector free from the main board.
6. Use that same toothpick to easily pry out the volume pot and power button assembly out of its small aluminum box housing and away from the player.
7. Then do the process in reverse for installing the new replacement assembly. Zero screwdrivers required.


Volume wheel potentiometer issue:

In my case I realized when pressing on the area of the 3 pins that connect the pot to the ribbon cable and the player then responding with volume adjustment, that one or two of the pins where not fully attached to their contacts. Then inspection under magnification clearly showed that they did not have enough solder. I also noticed that the pot was not fully flat against the ribbon cable. It seems like a quality pot but the manufacturer of this pot assembly needs to get better with the placement and soldering.
I did not have access to my soldering iron so I tried superglue to hold the ribbon cable closer to the pot. It didn't help and ended up making things worse. I also thought that I ruined the power button function because it was non-responive with the player still open but I then discovered that it needs to be reassembled in order to be grounded to the aluminum body.

During the second repair attempt when I had a soldering iron, re-soldering the pins didn't work but only because I had already ruined things with the superglue attempt and handling the delicate ribbon cable assembly too roughly.
I even disassembled the tiny pot itself and sure enough there was superglue on the 10+ contacts of the tiny wheel. But at that point I already broke one of the edge traces of the cable! Attempting to scrape the trace and bridge solder it didn't help. It was just time to reassemble and buy a new volume wheel pot/power button assembly. But during the repeated attempts to get the assembly back into its tiny aluminum box housing the narrow ribbon cable with the board connected just completely broke away! So now I don't have the use of the power button either!
I can still use the player. I have to connect it to USB for 1 second to power it on and use it ok. For powering it off I have enabled Auto Shutdown in the Idle section of the System, set for 5 minutes (1 minute is too short if needing to pause a track).
I only mention my partcular experience of ultimately things to show how things can spiral out of control if someone rushes into things. I should have skipped the super glue attempt, waited to get my soldering iron and worked delicately with the assembly allowing only a few times to handle it.

After saying all of that! For other people with the same issue. In general I believe the repair is not that difficult and most people can handle it if they get a replacement pot as Shanling offers.

In the thread which I hope to create, I will explain the disassembly and reassembly process because for the volume wheel components there are some steps that need to be followed in order, in regards to the center pin for example.
I have a bunch of photos to go through and decide which ones to post. I got to see other things inside obviously. Could clearly see the 2 ESS chips, a Realtek chip and a Giga chip. There is also an interesting push button switch on the board itself by one of the corners and I have no idea what this is. In that thread I'll point it out and ask Shanling. Maybe it's for diagnosing as there seem to be 4 Jtag contacts there too.

I am also trying to source a different place to buy this assembly due to the somewhat tedious ordering process and price of it with Shanling. I also want to buy a few as spares because I plan to buy more of these players and this is one of the main points of failure. I assume that Shanling did not manufacture it, but maybe they did.

I know. I tend to write too much but at least the info is there. For those who are interested, they can take the time to read.

Alright. I hope this helps so far. The many photos I took help a lot and I really hope to get them up eventually. I don't often check head-fi and only come here occassionally so just give me some time for the separate thread and if you have any questions.

 

[Record]

Shanling, does Shanling itself manufacturer this potentiometer/power button assembly or do you source it from a different manufacturer?

 

[FranticPhil]

Volume wheel issue & partial player disassembly.

Example CAUSE of an unresponsive volume wheel mentioned below.

It's a coincidence that you guys are talking about disassembly because I dug into it right after posting that YouTube video that I found during a search.

I composed the entire message below before reading the recent replies.

For Astrogoth, read my post here if you have time but to quickly answer you. It is NOT required to remove the main board. The M0 Pro uses a snap connector, not a slotted connector to connect the assembly to the main board. I mention below a brief summary of the disassembly. See the bold "Volume wheel potentiometer/power button replacement procedure" below. In the 2 photos that I've attached, I fully removed the unit without ever unscrewing the main board (you can see in the first photo that the assembly is lifted out of its small aluminum box housing and yet the board is still screwed in place). And yes, a strong quality suction cup is required unless you have a dedicated super slim metal pry tool sold for phone repair purposes. I use those and it would have worked too but they were at my other location. It took quite a substantial pull and multiple adhesions of the cup to finally pull the display outward.
Like I said below I have a bunch of photos of the opened player and it uses all standard phillips screws to hold the board in place if you're interested in removing it such as for the battery replacement. But again, it is NOT required for replacing the volume wheel assembly.

This is an introduction message before I plan to hopefully make a separate dedicated thread with photos showing a partial disassembly and the experience with the internals of the volume wheel. I will post the link here in this thread. I did not remove the PCB from the player although that is easily done by removing a few screws and a couple of connectors.
For now, I have included 2 photos of the volume wheel potentiometer and power button assembly. In the second photo you can see how the 3 pins did not have enough solder in my opinion and 1 was not fully attached to the contact pad.

So for anyone who cares and is interested in one of these two things or both, the player is not that difficult to disassemble. I used a quality 30mm sucton cup from a hardware store (used on glass and mirrors) on the display and slowly pulled the display away as it is held in places by a few barbed tabs that hook into the body. Thankfully it was not required to remove the factory screen protector and quite amazingly it did not pull away from the suction. It's obviously important to have strong suction so use a quality cup.


Volume wheel potentiometer/power button replacement procedure:

1. All you have to do is use a quality suction cup to pull the display away or a dedicated super slim and durable sheet metal pry tool shim used for cellphone repair.
2. Pull out the volume wheel which is designed to be pulled out with a decent force. Can often be done if you have enough fingernails and a good grip.
3. Use a small set of pliers to unscrew the brass nut holding the volume wheel potentiometer housing to the body and also creating a ground.
4. Then the key step is to use fine point tweezers to pull out the small black shaft pin otherwise the assembly can not be lifted out and away from the player!
5. Then use a toothpick to lift the ribbon cable board connector free from the main board.
6. Use that same toothpick to easily pry out the volume pot and power button assembly out of its small aluminum box housing and away from the player.
7. Then do the process in reverse for installing the new replacement assembly. Zero screwdrivers required.


Volume wheel potentiometer issue:

In my case I realized when pressing on the area of the 3 pins that connect the pot to the ribbon cable and the player then responding with volume adjustment, that one or two of the pins where not fully attached to their contacts. Then inspection under magnification clearly showed that they did not have enough solder. I also noticed that the pot was not fully flat against the ribbon cable. It seems like a quality pot but the manufacturer of this pot assembly needs to get better with the placement and soldering.
I did not have access to my soldering iron so I tried superglue to hold the ribbon cable closer to the pot. It didn't help and ended up making things worse. I also thought that I ruined the power button function because it was non-responive with the player still open but I then discovered that it needs to be reassembled in order to be grounded to the aluminum body.

During the second repair attempt when I had a soldering iron, re-soldering the pins didn't work but only because I had already ruined things with the superglue attempt and handling the delicate ribbon cable assembly too roughly.
I even disassembled the tiny pot itself and sure enough there was superglue on the 10+ contacts of the tiny wheel. But at that point I already broke one of the edge traces of the cable! Attempting to scrape the trace and bridge solder it didn't help. It was just time to reassemble and buy a new volume wheel pot/power button assembly. But during the repeated attempts to get the assembly back into its tiny aluminum box housing the narrow ribbon cable with the board connected just completely broke away! So now I don't have the use of the power button either!
I can still use the player. I have to connect it to USB for 1 second to power it on and use it ok. For powering it off I have enabled Auto Shutdown in the Idle section of the System, set for 5 minutes (1 minute is too short if needing to pause a track).
I only mention my partcular experience of ultimately things to show how things can spiral out of control if someone rushes into things. I should have skipped the super glue attempt, waited to get my soldering iron and worked delicately with the assembly allowing only a few times to handle it.

After saying all of that! For other people with the same issue. In general I believe the repair is not that difficult and most people can handle it if they get a replacement pot as Shanling offers.

In the thread which I hope to create, I will explain the disassembly and reassembly process because for the volume wheel components there are some steps that need to be followed in order, in regards to the center pin for example.
I have a bunch of photos to go through and decide which ones to post. I got to see other things inside obviously. Could clearly see the 2 ESS chips, a Realtek chip and a Giga chip. There is also an interesting push button switch on the board itself by one of the corners and I have no idea what this is. In that thread I'll point it out and ask Shanling. Maybe it's for diagnosing as there seem to be 4 Jtag contacts there too.

I am also trying to source a different place to buy this assembly due to the somewhat tedious ordering process and price of it with Shanling. I also want to buy a few as spares because I plan to buy more of these players and this is one of the main points of failure. I assume that Shanling did not manufacture it, but maybe they did.

I know. I tend to write too much but at least the info is there. For those who are interested, they can take the time to read.

Alright. I hope this helps so far. The many photos I took help a lot and I really hope to get them up eventually. I don't often check head-fi and only come here occassionally so just give me some time for the separate thread and if you have any questions.

I do not have any issues with my player but I applaud you for this post. May it help other fellow music lovers Kudos!