[Yethal]

 

  I use mine with optical Modi and
There is one other key advantage of using optical over usb. The optical version plugs into the PC's soundcard so the soundcard's DSP can be used (i.e for gaming) With the USB version You're stuck with whatever the windows driver can provide.

Very good point, with respect to gaming. I was assuming the OP was talking about music.
 
Keep in mind, however, it is still possible to apply processing to the USB output (VST/AU plug-ins with Mac players like Audirvana+ that provide EQ, as an example).

True, however hardware based processing cannot be applied to USB DACs unfortunately as there are no soundcards with USB outputs (unfortunately), also electromagnetic interference from motherboards is not carried over TOSlink.

 

[Krutsch]

  True, however hardware based processing cannot be applied to USB DACs unfortunately as there are no soundcards with USB outputs (unfortunately), also electromagnetic interference from motherboards is not carried over TOSlink.

Ah... that's because when you are using a USB DAC, you are bypassing the sound card. And, yes, TOSLINK provides some isolation from the negative effects of EMI/RFI and electrical noise inherent with computers.

 

[Yethal]

 

  True, however hardware based processing cannot be applied to USB DACs unfortunately as there are no soundcards with USB outputs (unfortunately), also electromagnetic interference from motherboards is not carried over TOSlink.

Ah... that's because when you are using a USB DAC, you are bypassing the sound card. And, yes, TOSLINK provides some isolation from the negative effects of EMI/RFI and electrical noise inherent with computers.

What I meant is there are no PCI Express cards with USB out ports that would allow the user to process the sound with the card's DSP and then output it through the USB port to an external DAC. Not sure how viable that option would be but I'd like to see cards like this in the near future.

 

[Bansaku]

They are smooth, as you observe. That, for me, is their great strength though. I like listening to sparse and slow music on them late at night. They are luxurious and warm yet still engaging and detailed. It's a unique and beautiful sound signature. They can kick and dance though, especially when powered with a good amp.

 
Speaking of good amps, I have my Black Friday storey to share. I have always recommended using the HD598 with a solid state receiver to get the most out of them. I have also recommended the Audioengine D1 as a damn good match. Combining the two (optical-->D1-->RCA-->Yamaha-->direct stereo), the HD598 sound fantastic; 6/5 stars in my books. The overall sound is more full, lush, and weighted. Likewise, a decent aftermarket modern sound card (such as the Xonar DG) is also a good match, power-wise. At 50 Ohms, the HD598 are not difficult to drive as long as the output is greater than a smartphone/tablet.
 
In comes Black Friday and my incredible find on the Teac UD-H01 for only $160, the same cost as my beloved D1. I purchased the unit with hope of it providing enough power for my beyerdynamic T 70. Ok, I bought it because Teac had the T 70s pictured with the UD-H01 on their website. BTW, it does, wonderfully, with power to spare; They grew a pair of beyerballs. Anyway, since the purchase I have been exclusively using the UD-H01 with my T 70s until last night. My RL nerd friends were calling me to jump on WoW so I decided to take a music break and do some social gaming. Off comes the T 70 and on goes the HD598. This was the first time I had used the two together. Upon launch, all I could say was WOW! No pun intended there, but really, Holy Smokes!
 
I am not the type to over-hype. Everything I say is completely objective in nature. Needless to say, I love the HD598 and always like to point out the fact that they are #5 in over-ears for a reason. I will also say that the D1 is fantastic, and would still highly recommend it for anyone, especially if pairing with the HD598. What the UD-H01 brought to the table is in a completely different league. Dual Burr-Brown DACs aside, the power and finesse of the headphone amplifier is nothing short of amazing!
 
Timbre/texture, focus, soundstage, transparency, transients, midrange purity, and treble smoothness vastly improved. However the BASS, oh the BASS...I am not sure what black magic is in play here, but the increase in both quantity and quality of the bass response is almost indescribable. If the HD650 has more bass, NO THANKS. I am not embellishing my words here, but doing an A/B comparison of the DT 770 Pro 250 against the HD598 using the UD-H01, straight, bit-perftc, the HD598 is the clear winner in both bass quantity and quality. The HD598 not only slams harder, but has almost equal amounts of sub-bass, without any bloat or bleed. Dead serious here. I have said before that sub-bass is present in the HD598, and really good, but it is what I would describe as typical 'open back' sub-bass. Not anymore. The sheer weight and boom-bloom literally shakes the cups, sending reverberations down to your core, yet speed and texture remain. It tickles the ears with bass happiness. The absolute force and finesse hits your eardrums like Bruce Lee's 1-inch punch.
 
All in all, the upgrade is worth every penny. I could go on and on (even more) on how bloody amazing the HD598 sound now. To my ears they sound like a completely different headphone. The moral of my storey here is that I have re-enforced me saying the HD598 are (still) the epitome of 'crap-in, crap-out'.
 

  What I meant is there are no PCI Express cards with USB out ports that would allow the user to process the sound with the card's DSP and then output it through the USB port to an external DAC. Not sure how viable that option would be but I'd like to see cards like this in the near future.

Maybe I am reading too much into this Toslink vs USB debate, but there is some incomplete information here that I would like to clarify. (not picking on you Lethal, just using your quote as a lead in).
 
Toslink (optical) out provides zero noise or jitter. There is no outside interference and the only way the signal could be effected is either by damage to the cable or the signal strength of the transceiver (which can be overcome by using a booster). It is the most purest form of transmitting 1s and 0s and in most cases preferable. That is why it was a big deal when Schit added Toslink to their updated products. This is why I purchased the Audioengine D1 (and later HD-H01).
 
Any hardware processing from your sound cards DSP or software plugins (AU/VST) will be carried over through optical. Any software processing will likewise be carried over USB. It is somewhat correct in saying that normally the sound card's hardware DSP will not be carried over though USB, though it can be done with 'bridge' software, at a cost of CPU power. Basically you output the sound card into another that 'captures' the sound and re-routes it. Not ideal but possible.
 

 

 

[Krutsch]

  Toslink (optical) out provides zero noise or jitter. There is no outside interference and the only way the signal could be effected is either by damage to the cable or the signal strength of the transceiver (which can be overcome by using a booster). It is the most purest form of transmitting 1s and 0s and in most cases preferable. That is why it was a big deal when Schit added Toslink to their updated products. This is why I purchased the Audioengine D1 (and later HD-H01).
 

 
I believe, in general, that the cable itself behaves as you describe, but that's not what is generally discussed with respect to jitter and S/PDIF output.
 
S/PDIF relies on the clock of the device transmitting (light pulses w/ TOSLINK or analog square waves with coaxial), from which the jitter "problem" emanates (in quotes, because it's debated whether the effect is audible, even though its effect is very measurable with instruments).
 
With async USB, the clock is within the receiving device and, if properly constructed, provides greater timing accuracy for conversion.
 
Also, it is generally accepted that coax digital is superior to TOSLINK, because of the speed of the voltage rise and fall times which delineate the corresponding pulse code modulation represented by the analog signal carried by S/PDIF; which, again, provides greater resistance to jitter. I am not an electrical engineer, but this is how it was explained to me by someone who is an EE.
 
All that crap aside... I stand by my original statement to the OP: USB is preferred simply because it doesn't require an additional power supply (wall wart) to power the DAC. 

 

[Bansaku]

 
All that crap aside... I stand by my original statement to the OP: USB is preferred simply because it doesn't require an additional power supply (wall wart) to power the DAC. 

 
Not going to dispute your reasoning because not only do I agree, it is a hot topic of debate on other forums. I am just going off my experiences with my equipment. The actual quality of the equipment plays more of a factor than the numbers on paper do, as stated with " if constructed properly'. Perhaps I worded things wrong, and after re-reading should not have used 'jitter', rather potential interference that can create unwanted effects and delay. Let me try this again. 
 
When it comes to USB, regardless of async, the actual weak point in the chain is the very nature of USB itself; it is a computer interface integrated into a system, therefore all the other factors of that system come into play. Example, quality of the PSU, SATA cables connecting the HDs, fans that may draw power from the mobo, PCI cards, or other devices on the USB bus. Then we go into the quality factor of the build itself. On a lot of cheap laptop PCs the spin of the HDs can be heard (as clicks or static) even the best USB DAC. Not so much on a Macbook Pro. When it comes to Toslink there is no 'computer' interference that would effect the signal. The sound is on it's own bus, connected directly to the CPU. There will never be any system noise/interference. The only weak point in the chain would be the receiver/transceiver on how well it does PCM encoding/decoding, or the cable itself. Again, it comes down to quality of components.
 
To alleviate any problems with USB, a few steps are necessary. I do know (from reading other Hi-fi forums) that when using USB, it is preferred/recommended that one uses a powered hub that is connected on it's own, to it's own USB bus. Even manufacturers of USB DACs recommend this. Often higher end USB DACs do include an option for external power and not bus fed. In all honesty, that is how I use both my D1 and UD-H01. This kind of defeats your logic of not needing a power supply, in terms of convenience; Although internal PSUs can cause interference, but again, it comes down to quality. On the software side I set my player to Exclusive Access/Direct mode and Integer mode to 1. I also disable all unnecessary system processes. With Toslink, all this is unnecessary, both Windows and OS X; less links in the chain.
 
Anyway, I hope you see the point I was trying to make. Yes, I kind of over simplified things, but I am just trying to make it more digestible for those with limited technical knowledge. USB problems, Toslink not so much.
 

 
 
Edit: Forgot to mention USB DAC controller chips and their driver problems. Don't get me started, especially with Windows. With Toslink, no drivers needed. No drivers = no headache.

 

[Spiderman]

Does anyone else have pretty bad ear pain when using these headphones? My outer ears always hurt after I use them for an extended period of time I like the sound just wondering if you can get bigger pads or something. 

 

[MegaMushroom]

  Does anyone else have pretty bad ear pain when using these headphones? My outer ears always hurt after I use them for an extended period of time I like the sound just wondering if you can get bigger pads or something. 

 
Oddly enough I hear about this issue every so often.  I have no clue what to tell you.  I don't realize just how comfy these things are for me until I take em off... or forget to take em off.  I don't suppose your ears rub up against any of the inner parts? 

 

[Spiderman]

I think my ears might be too big for these its odd I have never had an issue with other headphones on ear or over, I think it presses slightly on the cartilage on the top of my ear but after a while when I take them off I get some pretty bad pain. 

 

[domoaligato]

  I think my ears might be too big for these its odd I have never had an issue with other headphones on ear or over, I think it presses slightly on the cartilage on the top of my ear but after a while when I take them off I get some pretty bad pain. 

 
I am new to this community but I was curious if measuring your ears might help to understand this better?
I was also thinking about this wondering if maybe the headphones need to be higher on your head so that your ears fit better in the cups?

 

[Olop]

Hi, need some advice from you guys. I'm actually considering AD900X and HD598. I'll be using it to listen to songs and not gaming. 
Assuming I have a amp, which one is a better choice?

 

[Koolpep]

  Hi, need some advice from you guys. I'm actually considering AD900X and HD598. I'll be using it to listen to songs and not gaming. 
Assuming I have a amp, which one is a better choice?

Not the right thread to ask. You are ion the HD598 thread so the answer will be HD598 for sure!!
 
Add more info: Music genres you want to listen to, etc. 
 
Cheers,
K

 

[Olop]

Not the right thread to ask. You are ion the HD598 thread so the answer will be HD598 for sure!!

Add more info: Music genres you want to listen to, etc. 

Cheers,
K

Thanks. Mostly I'll listen to pop songs, bass heavy or not doesn't really matter to me. I guess soundstage and mids being forward is more important to me.

 

[amigomatt]

HD598 it is then. Truly astonishing soundstage and detailed yet smooth forward mids.

 

[nVme]

Hello,
 
I have just recently bought the HD598 and did not know there was a twist-and-lock mechanism for the cable.  I yanked at it hard a couple of times before I gave up and searched up that it had a twist-and-lock.  The lock still seems to be intact in the headphone and was wondering how I would know if I damaged the headphones (everything appears to be fine and still working) as well as the potential areas that could be damaged from a stupid act like this.
 
Thanks in advance !