Senn HD800 Ultimate, "Maxx" Mod

[Maxx134]

In this thread, we will progress from an hd800, to an HD800S, to extra mods, and finally discussion of my latest mods, the HD800M, & HD800SM...


..
What I would consider real improvements are covered here.
Topics like 6k resonance/diffuse sound, and real driver Changes at end of thread, to increase driver performance.

I had pioneered the resonance damping with the HD800 and now moved onto driver modification to increase performance further, posted later in this thread:
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/senn-hd800-ultimate-s-mod.879024/post-15489022

There are recent mods from others which implement a "clean" solution of compression for the damping aspect, but IMO I have tried and found that "compression" type damping to be both ineffective and/or unreliable. With age they are highly dependent on the torque setting of each screw. That is why my mods don't use them.


************************


Onto the public mod:

This is the "public" mod. It is the base for my, latest private mod, which is a complicated step over these resonance fixes & other tunning mods.

I labeled it 800M & SM for the 800S version. This gets crazy with the lettering I know.
It gets worse with the 8XX version.

*******†********

This first steps is an HD800 to an 800S mod, not a SDR mod.

SDR is popular because it is easy, but remains only a tonality mod.
It does not correct the driver resonace or diffuse sound. It only tones Frequency down.
Tonality changes mods are not improvement mods. They are bandaid compromises.

In contrast, my mods are made as true solutions:

Preface:
The public mod was called Ult "S" mod because I added my own center insert choice, which makes it very close to a 800S.

I will post some performance evidence first,
then followed by the procedures, and discoveries made alone the way...


HD800 to an HD800S mod:

Here is a initial comparison to an SDR mod, to show the difference in more upper FR (air), and more lows:

Stock also has more elevation than SDR, above 10khz.
This is why many internal mods kill the trebles and ambiance air of the soundstage.

Both mods were previously impossible to have without the 6k ringing(diffuse sound), but my mod goes further to eliminate the "diffuse" nature.

More differences:
CSD:
30db down.

Notice that all decay is faster than .5ms (!),
all way down to 1k..
No 6kringing like stock and even 800S...
Clean CSD, unmatched by any HD800 or HD800S elsewhere (in regards to FR & decay).

Here is a screenshot of the best fabled never released annax mod:
pic

At 50db down a slight 1-2ms decay in trebles, (arguably the cleanest ever made)

Now here is mine 50db down:

(click to expand as looks too big to post large)
At a deep 50db down,
Fast decay of .05-1ms in WHOLE trebles range!
This is proof of no ringing(!)
This is unmatced by any modded HD800, or HD800S... ever before...

Ringing:
Here is a plain stock HD800, with actual ringing around 2.5k area, in CSD at 47db down. You can see the ripple peaks:

Here is this "Ult S" mod with zero ripples at same area, same 47db down:

Distortion:

Notice that the harmonics below noise floor,
And also to see is unique is the horizontal linearity of the harmonics.

In this one, the ambient noise was too high, so the white line (THD) reflects that,
and I removed the bass as debatable points because of the noise, but it was a gradual incline with the bass.
So the Bass measurements were too skewed because of the dam ambient noise so I will try update in future post.

One important point to note to make,
This was first HD800 has ever had a linear distortion (no spike) in the trebles range,
and also stay below the noise floor... ever..(that I know ), unlike the D800, or HD800S.

Hear is my Impulse response:

First, It should be noted that this impulse, being the HD800, should be viewed already as a notably clean and noise free impulse response..
Small signal wiggles before the main peak, would reveals system distortion,
of which there are none here.

The main signal is the large first peak.
*There is Less negative overshoot than an 800 or 800S.
*The lack of a strong second upward spike after the initial transient is very important,
and is less than other HD800 or 800S...
This is said to indicates a more coherent sound, and superior imaging.

*The tighter rise & fall of the lines being tighter to the red line ( in this Mod), compared to stock,
is also indicative to cleaner response.
All below the 20 mark is already very good, especially if before 500ms.

*The smaller signals after the initial up and downward spikes,
are the ringing/reflection amplitudes of the enclosure,
of which is also better than the HD800 or HD800S.


About this mod:
Initially, there wasn't any mod available to make an HD800 sound similar, (but better) to an 800S...

This mod WILL give you similar bass, without the added blurry harmonics of the 800S(!).

This mod WILL preserve the treble "air" and signature Senn trebles, that other mods either kill off(rug liners & creatology foams) ..

This mod does supercedes the "Super Dupont" mod, as that one flattens, tames, and even dulls out the upper trebles...In order to subdue the 6k resonance, as it does so in tunnig aspect, not correction of the source of the problem. It was the best attept with tunning.

This mod CAN also be applied to the "Super Dupont" mod, in order to reduce ringing and keep that "SDR" signature of a tame HD800, if desired. Later on in thread I posted alternative inserts.

So this mod eliminates the resonance problem WITHOUT killing, or neutralizing the trebles.
It was a year long project that me and another member @ Olegausa finished years ago.

EDIT:
Some more measurements...

Comparisons of this mod to another HD800SD with StephanAudio hardwired:


This is a "clarity" tab in REW.

Next:

This is the "distortion" tab in REW showing the red line (2nd harmonic) distortion go up around treble region, which is one indicator of the HD800 treble resonance this mod solves...
Notice this mod on right side devoid of such elevated distortion.

Next:

This is the "Filtered IR" tab in REW.
Here we see in numerical value, the "clarity C50 & C80" results.

As you can see, the C80 measurement is the one to look at.

On a plain or SDR moded HD800, expect to see 19-20 or lower.

This mod's "C80 clarity" at 56, is more than double of the original HD800, even with a center driver mod like SDR.

 

[Maxx134]

Ok ready?

STANDARD WARNING BEFORE PROCEED..
THIS THREAD CONTAINS INFO THAT WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY (bla bla Of course).

AND MAY BE DIFFICULT FOR YOU TO REVERT, AND POSSIBLY DAMAGE YOUR HD800 IF NOT DONE CORRECTLY ...( if your a klux, which your not, and even if you were that wont stop you, right?)

USE MATERIALS/PROCEEDURE AS SUGGESTED FOR SUCCESS!

ONLY REASON I POST THIS STANDARD CRAP IS SO I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE AS YOU HAVE BEEN FOREWARNED..
NOW ONTO THE MODS....

This mod will retain and preserve "presence" and treble air without fatigue,
as the resonance is Eliminated!!!
All while the upper trebles range is preserved without the inherent dips of the 800 or 800S.

Once completed, you will now have now a more focused solid sound with more lazer sharp focus & imaging than stock iterations.

It will not kill Soundstage, which is the major issue with using material running.
Specifically, many other HD800 mods( by the inherent usage of special rug liners, fillers, or other materials)...

By covering up or filling up the inside, they all have the side effect of killing the spaciousness and soundstaging,
That approach, is more accurately described, as "absorbtion".

So,
Instead of absorbtion, we go to the root of the resonance problem,
to solve it with dampening, not absorbtion.
Sound damping, and sound absorbtion are two very very different things.

That way, we preserve more of the HD800 Soundstage, by keeping interior dimensions untouched and spacious,
and also keeping the upper frequency range preserved,
which is responsible for treble "presence" and "air"...

It is also already proven that the HD800 driver Frequency Response is actually smooth, when tested apart & outside from its enclosure.

This aludes to the obvious problem of the enclosure.
So the solution was damping.
Just like the HD650 was later proven to improve with dampening.


*****************

List of all modifications:

Sonic Mods:

*1-"BASS Pressure/COUPLING SEAL" MOD.
specific material to slow down the bass pressure from escaping pads
sub-bass seal and Impact preservation, inserted to the inside of ear pads.

*2-rear grill Anti-reflection mod,
This is accomplished by using specific deflective material by grill.
Yes those mesh metal screens in rear affect sound,
but you don't have to take them off (novice approaches) or make a larger elaborate/expensive closed chamber (Jar approach).
No grill removal is necessary, with my approach, and this solves listener fatique from rear reflections.

*3- Rear dampening Anti-resonance mod.
(done after first 2)
This is a specific resonance killing material,
on specific areas in back of driver.***
Not any will do!

*4- Metal ring replacement Mod.
(Done Only after 1-3).
The driver edge metal ring was designed for ineffective damping thru both clamping and metal weight. It is removed, and replacement with a cut damping ring.

This mod uses equal and opposing mass, which is the Anti-Resonance Mod.
This damping does not rely on compression, which all others do.
Even stock units have a sorbothane-like gasket substitute under the driver, which was supposed to be snug and slightly compressed by the metal ring. The problem is that the foam under the metal ring gives way and flattens, eliminating any compression of the metal ring.


*5- The 800"S" Resonator Mod insert.
This is a hot item, get it while still in production.
Sennheiser foam .


Supplemental Mods:
*6- Internal wiring replacement mod.
Replacement here is like a magnifying glass effect.
Care must be taken in replacement wire selection,
as this WILL affect the headphone signature tonality,
from sweet to dark, but not in a FR way. In a cable sense way.

My advice is to NEVER replace, unless you're sure.
That the internal wire has both an actual tiny resistance and sonic aspect.
Stock internal wiring preserve sweeter sense, so recommendations at end.

*7-installation of mini XLR connectors..

END OF MOD categorys
***************************


One more note before Mods:
IMHO the SD mod insertion, is the most neutral version.
It is actually the most Excellent for neutrality.

Compared to this "S" mod, the SD mod is a more tame (less lively) sound.

So Mod number 5, is for those that prefer the 800S type signature,
for a more " full ",lively or engaging sound.

For those that like their more linear "SD" Mod signature,
you can still implement all other mods listed here,
to elevate your SD mod to a clearer, higher level.
As the "SD" mod only adresses the Frequency Response signature (6k & trebles elevation).

Actuall Mods Next..

 

[Maxx134]

Now onto the Mods:
To DO IN ORDER, VERY IMPORTANT.

Sonic Mods:
*1-subbass mod.
*2-rear grill anti-reflection mod,
using micro liner by grill
*3- Rear dampening Anti-resonance mod.
(do after 2)
*4- Metal ring replacement Mod.
(Do Only after 1-3).
*5- The 800"S" Resonator Mod.

Supplemental Mods:
*6- Internal wiring replacement mod.
*7--installation of mini XLR connectors.


Disclaimer,
These mods not for the faint-hearted.
Try at your own risk and it helps if your have some competence in modding and patience.

*************************************************************
EDIT:
This whole pad mod has been updated, to instead, to using the Dekoni ferenstrated lambskin pads, combined with a Specific silicone seal, extracted from a cheaper but nice non-senheiser replacement pad, which is mentioned further in the thread.
Here is pic of the required silicone (plastic) seal:




So continue to the below method, only if you are using stock pads:

1- First off,
is the "BASS Pressure/COUPLING SEAL" MOD
Take about an 8" long & 1" wide "rubber tape", and fold in half.
*Pic*

*pic*

*pic*
Insert into pads, working your way around the inside,
keeping the rubber flat,
without crushing the tape into a roll:

*pic*

*pic*

Sonic results are an increase in the bass "seal", providing a more palpable presence of the subsonics, not noted in measurements, and so the air pressure/ bass feel of impact escapes less thru the foam pads.

This mod is easily reversable.
The tape has no adhesive, and only sticks to itself when folded in two,
Which matches the with of interior pad flap.

When tucked nicely inside, it gives a gentle lift to the pads.
It prevents the older pads "sag" & collapse, and keeps the "new pad" feel and lift, for better soundStage as well.

Once settled they feel normal.
It gives a more solid coupling to face,
so less bass impact is dissapated out of the cloth pads.

Next steps involve pulling off the pads and opening unit, which is why we did this one first.

******************


2nd- REAR GRILL ANTI-RELECTION MOD.
Next mods involve the dismantle of the unit, and while not hard at all, still I will assume you already know how to do this.
Pull off pads,
Unscrew the ring but be careful as the rear plastic assembly will come off,
so hold unit together and gently remove plastic rear which house the rear grill.
Carfully slide out rear grill & plastic while holding driver unit to its base.

You will be using a micro sized "shelf liner" by the grill.
It is easily attainable at stores.
Cut shapes of thin shelf liner
*pic*

Insert by grill and leave rear of unit open for next mod...
Make sure the "liner" looks like this:

This will erradicate listening fatigue due to reflection of Upper frequencies.

This is both absorbtion and but more fine knit for dispertion (instead of the metal reflection) without killing soundstage and clearing depth.
This is suggested also to improve all 800 mods.


******************


3rd- the Rear Dampening, Anti-resonance mod:
This most important mod will require the most skill and competence, or just patience.
This is THE mod to improve the SD mod as well.

The specific choice and layout of materials is very important.
We will be using Only
"DYNAMAT EXTREME"...(!)

VERY VERY IMPORTANT IS THE SPECIFIC USAGE OF THE "EXTREME" VERSION OF DYNAMAT ONLY...
Do not use normal dynamat, or other brands, which are noted to be thinner.
Do not believe claims of better materials either, as that is not key.

We specifically need the thickest possible, for a specific reason which is "mass loading".

The objective here is to "mass load" the rear area of the driver coupling to the basket...
This application of the physical vibrational control of the structure, which will shift and eliminate the structure's resonance problem.

This is not "absorbtion" of existing sound. This is vibration attenuation thru deadening AND Mass loading.
This is accomplished with use on both sides of driver, sandwhiched with both rear and front mod next mod 4.
Changes to the mass loading affects the vibration of the structure,
and thus the resonant frequency of the structure vibration.
That means the shift & elimination of the resonant frequency is a measure of the density of the structure.

Killing structural resonance will control the problem itself,
rather than to bandage it up thru sound "absorbtion",
like the existing HD800 mods of past.

Anyways,
First, we get some specifically cut pieces of DYNAMAT EXTREME!
Make sure it is "Extreme" version, and keep the silver on the outside.
The silver part of this material is necessary for "vibration attenuation" thru change of layer density(usage of different layers).

*pic*

The basket frame is generally a difficult area to dampen,
So here are the specific locations (critical) for this mod:
Don't waste your time to do this halfway, or by using another material, or another location.

First off,
At The Back of driver inside area,
apply dynamat extreme in these sections:
*pic*

*pic*

Once done, set aside and position rear grill mod2 over it, to get ready for closing with next mod...


*************


4- Driver side damping, ring mod.
We replace the metal ring with a same shape ring using dynamat extreme (!):
*pic*

NO METAL RING...
The ring was nothing more than a "washer" used to hold the driver in place.
It was an obstruction to access the area needed to dampen the souce of vibration to the structure.

This DYNAMAT ring is of an equal location and position, of the rear Dynamat location on other side,
for driver damping on both yet opposite opposite sides of the driver.

This is the specific methodology used, to dampen resonance, and stop the 6k ringing...

This ring is integral to, and is the missing link to the puzzle that was needed for optimal vibration reduction...

Control on BOTH sides to neutralize the structure,
NOT ONE SIDE, as done with past metal ring mods...
You cant clap your hands with one hand right?
You need two..
Same rules apply when dealing with forces (vibrations).
Doing this ring only mod is alone, without rear mod, does NOT work (like clapping with one hand),
and metal ring removal is nothing more than placibo without the DYNAMAT EXTREME on BOTH SIDES.

What should also be noted, is the angle of the damping. Physics for results.
The smaller back-side center of dynamat "ring" shape, combined with the larger frontal dynamat "ring" shape, are is a position to be in a linear line to the basket angle..

This resulting positional "angle" is both the purpose, and what makes it effective to dampen the basket..
A Specific choice rather than over doing "blindly" or excessively damping the headphone with dynamat.

*pic*

All previous mods must be done and position in place before placing these sticky rings on.

Once front is covered, you won't be able to find the screw hole!

No problem,
just shine a light from the backside, and see how the four screw holes line up exactly with the frame:

*pic* later as its on my phone.

So you wont miss any hole location when putting screw back thru dynamat...
**edit 2022:
Instead of RUBBER CUT pieces, for washers to hold driver in secured, I refined the procedure to use flat metal washers and repurposed foam from the original ring, in this later post:
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/senn-hd800-ultimate-maxx-mod.879024/post-16569836

*pic*

..


Driver section of mod compete.


This mods which increase focus, is a bit of a "double edged sword"...

Because the stock HD800 no longer has the diffused trebles to extend a bit of false "soundstage diffuse air" ..

So with increased focus, layering & separation,
comes less of the extended false diffused air type soundstaging, and replaces it with more depth and accuracy,
For a noticably more palpable and greater experience.

This whole mod is also reversable if ever need.
Only messy, as you would have to clean up the dynamat.

I highly doubt anyone would want to reverse this mod after listening to the lazer pinpoint imaging and clearer textures though...

All mods up to this point can be used on "SDR" modded headphones.

Completing the initial mods, would be with the earpad mods, later in this thread:
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/senn-hd800-ultimate-maxx-mod.879024/post-16545288




**** **** ****



5- The 800 "S" resonator mod:

Edit**
Another unkown topic, is about the center hole.
Why a center hole?
Why not just cover it up?
Because it will sound closed..(!)

While true, the resonator in the 800S brings more lower spectrum, it is (in my opinion, from my research) was originally intended to be a relief of the internal air chamber pressure (where your ear is).

Placing a "resonator" there covers the excape of pressure, so it mutes low level transients, because the driver membrane is thin.

This effect is most notable in the 820, but only with side by side comparison with the 800.

On the 800S, the effect leads to more distortion, or a "fullness" in lower spectrum, along with greater bass from less escaping air pressure...
So there was a balance to strike, and the 800S was the result. Very nice change, but not as "clean" sounding as the original.

Regardless,
This part of mod will give a very similar sonic character and signature of an HD800S.(!)
Use ONLY these specific Sennheiser "ear-tips"!

*pic*

Make sure the serial number is same.
No other material will do.

Cut the rounded edges off,
to necessary depth (of an SDmod), and then Insert these tips :
*pic*

Easyest part of the mod.
Install same as you would an SD mod.
Please refer to the SD thread for installation.
Here is pic with SD on left, and "S" mod on right:

Get them, fresh from DIRECT SOURCE.

OR these other sources, while you still can..

So if the Main source dries up, Look here also:

HERE

AND HERE

AND HERE ALSO.

Done. Main mods done.
Enjoy.


The following steps below, are additional mods not necessary.

*****************************


Optional Mods:


6- INTERNAL WIRING MOD:
Replacement of micro stock wiring CAN give you positive results, "IF" done wisely.

That means replacement with known good sounding wire...
NO SILVER PLATED, OR MIX PLATED WIRE...

Lets take a look at the super tiny size of this wire(!)
*Pic* ( update later)

OMG broken pin,
And 100 AWG! (kiddn)
It is neither OCC, nor good enough guage.
It will ALWASY present an "impedance" to your system...
And I mean that LITERALLY! !

0.1 OHM RESISTANCE MEASURED ON EACH wire, not including connectors !!!

While that amount may seem small, it does matter here.

From my testing, not only the wiring, but BOTH the wire AND the stock connectors have influence on the HD800 drivers..

Remember, we are dealing with on of the most resolving dynamic driver currently,
So everything makes a difference when you're dealing with the HD800 and why cable changes can be heard with the 800.

The easiest suggestion would be to install cable hardwired into driver and eliminate the connector...

I did this at first, but the drawback, is missing the option to upgrade to other cables,
So instead I choose the mini XLR sockets in step 7.

Seems that stock wire was thin for a reason.
Choosing here, steers the difference between sweet or dark "qualities" in the headphone.
Qualities that pertain to cable preferences.
If you ever thought wires make a difference,
At this location magnifys it.

This is one recommendation of only wire to use:
Neotech Stranded AG/GD in PE 24ga:
Neotech AG/GD-24 is a stranded, 99% UP-OCC Silver & 1% Gold chassis wire in a clear PE jacket.

The reason for this wire, and at that gauge mentioned, is that it was the perfect size, and it preserved a similar original qualities of sparkling clarity and resolve, while keeping the main advantage that most re-wiring does, which is a more powerful low end.

Also, the choice of solder.
I used to use normal solder.
I noticed a much better flow and work with Cardas solder.
It was superior.
But now I have switched to
The "Mundorf MSolder SUPREME Solder Silver/Gold"
It was to match the consistency of the silver/gold wire.

I am sure there are other choices, but I will only recommend what I know works.
Better than stock wire, and better than the silver plated wire tried, and better than larger guage wire tried.


Ok ,
so now the problem lies in soldering on the connector side.

It is a fragile piece on inside soldering points, and is a sonic "choke point".

YOU MUST have the steady hands of a surgeon to complete this task,
Or you could be out of commission with a broken socket! (On wiring end).

It's like Sennheiser just put a tiny connector to show off and say,
"look at me, I can make a super slick super tiny iem guage connector!" Lol.

It really is that fragile inside...
Pic*later of broken internal pin.
Lucky I had extra stock connector.

I found the best way was to UNsolder wires from the driver post first,
Then remove the connector,
Then cut the wire close to the inside connector tips,
But leaving some wire as it is inserted microscopically and deeply inside.
Then tinning(solder) and reinsert into housing to solder the wires on top.


********************************************


7- MINI XLR MOD:

As stated before, the ideal solution would be to totally discard the stock connector...
It is a POS stupidly designed garbage stock connector.

The bottom line is,
those dam forsaken garbage HD800 connectors, WILL "add" to your sound.

So take out, and boldly drill away a larger hole! !
For a mini XLR connector!
The mini XLR I consider easily MORE transparent .

Ok,
So It was not an easy thing to do either,
as it had to be drilled a bigger hole,
at a slightly forward angle to fit in.

BE VERY CAREFUL,
to get that drill bit in THERE,
As it is so close to the driver soldering posts!

Pic*

This was a silver plated wire which is NOT recommend.


The end result of mini XLR socket is very slick:
Pic*

And it actually makes it better when using the hd800,
Because the cable is now very Slightly angled forward and away from you.
Plus the shiny connectors are cool.

Here is an updated guide on this mini XLR mod, with specific tools, posted later in thread here:
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/senn-hd800-ultimate-maxx-mod.879024/post-17098858




*****
Enjoy your Ult mod.

 

[Maxx134]

Clarification on the importance of the:
ANTI-RESONANCE MOD ( BOTH STEPS 3&4)

Edit**
From further investigation, Senheiser applied an anti-vibration "compression damping" scheme, yet it was only partially done inside bottom of the driver, while top used the metal ring with foam.
There is a substitute sorbothane type padding under, which was very thin, according to the design of thr pressure that was placed with screws.

Sorbothane type compression works in two scenarios.
Compression, or expansion. Both require a very specific set amount to be effective.
This is why I did not choose this method.

The metal ring was specifically used to apply a very even circular compression onto the driver for the rubber/sorbothane to work under it, but the problem was that over time, the foam relaxes on the metal ring takes shape to groove, and flattens. Once that happens, you loose the initial torque setting of the screws. The screws don't budge regardless, because they are in plastic.


So Unfortunately, this did not "sandwich" the driver enough for that sorbothane derivative to be effective. So what you have is a partially dampened driver.

To complete the original design of the hd800 using compression, another circular layer of sorbothane should have been added in place of the foam on metal ring.
But that would complicate design as it would necessitate machine screws with exact torque

This, to me, was a design compromise, and the reason why my usage of dynamat fully resolves this issue.

So instead of using specific compression with sorbothane, I just use dynamat which does work by compression. The only issue is that it is a bit sloppier alternate, but depends how exact you can cut your rings.

The dynamat method does not involve additional pressure, so the original screws and grill can be retained..

Onto the dynamat method:

I cannot stress enough to use Dynamat Extreme in the perscribed specific location.

Location of dynamat placement is not guesswork,
So I must give some theory and details now...


Only "Dynamat Extreme" is used, in what is essentially two circle shapes...
Use the metal ring as templates to replace them.

So we have in front driver
One in circular mass in front, and then at back of driver at specific points.

The idea is to stop the vibrational source area (where driver meets structure) in a specific way...

In order to do so, we place an almost equal and opposing mass in front and behind the driver(!) in the specific locations...

It will clasp the vibrating source, similar to when a drummer pinches a cymbal to stop it.

TWO opposing SIDES having dynamat damping.

What is needed, is vibration attenuation, not spot mass loading (metal ring), and random diffusion (bouncing vibrations),
which also introduce more complex vibration patterns to the basket structure..

Think of a bell ringing and only touching one side. That is what stock does with one side of sorbothane-like material, then mass loading heavy metal ring on front.
It still rings but with different ripples of sound.

This is also why we do not apply to "rear only" half done job with regular Dynamat or other cheaper damping material...

Ok,
So what is done to the front, we need to do similarly to the rear,
To achieve equal "vibration attenuation".

There is more to this. The basket is not flat, but a 3D cone shape.
So We are addressing physical vibration damping, in both the" horizontal plane", and the angled-plane" of the basket...

How?
If you take notice, the rear application is in a smaller circle.

So there is a "line-of-sight "angle" between the inner and outer dynamat rings. This "angle" is a necessary parallel with the basket trajectory.


So, three things are at play:
not only is the dynamat on both sides, but it is also in necessary angles of vibration trajectory of the basket.

Why?.
Because the basket structure, is essentially shaped like a "cone" megaphone, so it would naturally amplify or extend out vibrations from the center (including the driver)..

We want the driver sound but NOT the driver vibration that is transmitted to the basket structure, which is the cause of the 6k resonance.

Elimination of this resonance thru damping, instead of trying to fix it thru material absorption (thru other tunning methods) is the key to cleaner sound. The "diffused" soundfield presence is cleared up.

Past solutions only relied on materials to "absorb" the resulting sound, which is like covering a wound with a bandage, instead of sewing it up.

Its like taking medicine for a cold to stop the symptoms, but adds its own drowsy effects(like transient muting), and is not the actual cure.

Only the Dynamat Extreme, "Anti-resonance Mod" will control the root of the Problem.

It "sandwiches" the driver in both the "horizontal & basket-angled planes",
to attenuate the driver initial vibrations wich would then transmitted along the basket, in a similar way a horn speaker amplify.

This is where we get the diffused exaggerated soundstage.

No other part of this mod is more important than this one.

No other solution out there, are as effective "Vibration control".

No vibration damping method has taken into consideration both on the horizontal and angled planes..

 

[omniweltall]

Pse carry on, mate. We're listening....

 

[Maxx134]

Pse carry on, mate. We're listening....

ok I updated second reserved post.

 

[johnjen]

I look forward to seeing what you have come up with.

JJ

 

[Maxx134]

I look forward to seeing what you have come up with.

JJ

DONE..
Check posts..

 

[Maxx134]

Redacted

 

[Maxx134]

I have updated second post on the importance of the "Anti-resonance" damping mod.

 

[omniweltall]

I have updated second post on the importance of the "Anti-resonance" damping mod.

It must be applied specifically or you can be wasting your time.
So some theory and explanations are given.

That part is the most important for achieving focused, lazer pinpoint accuracy and clarity.
It is what makes other HD800 or HD800 sound blurry and dirty in comparison.

If you think your HD800 already sounds clean, and cant possibly get more resolving...

You will be very surprised and awed,
by jaw-dropping focus and clarity.
Actually, if possible, just Imagine the same sound, minus the diffused soundfield.

This is the most extensive mod I've ever seen. You are really sumthin', man.

 

[Thenewguy007]

Can you elaborate on the rubber tape part? Any specific brand you bought?

Also why does it look wavy in your pictures?

 

[Maxx134]

Can you elaborate on the rubber tape part? Any specific brand you bought?

Also why does it look wavy in your pictures?

It is a rubber tape that had NO adhesive.
Rubber tape is easily found in the hardware store next to the electrical tape.
It is made to be used by electricians, over electrical tape to create a water tight seal for wiring connections that will get wet.

Anyways, it is a tape that only sticks to itself, which is what we want.
The reason you see a bit of it wavy, is because it had to bend inside.
No big deal.

The tape was folded in two, to match the with of interior pad flap.
It tucked nicely inside and gives a gentle lift to the pads.

It prevents the older pads collapse and keeps the "new pad" feel and lift, for better soundStage as well.

Once settled they feel normal.
It gives a more solid coupling to face so less bass impact is lost out the cloth pads.
I updated a bit info in post.

 

[superfluke]

Don't think I'm brave enough to try this but it looks really good. Great work.

out of curiosity, have you tested those ear-tips vs the SD resonator? without the other mods would you rather the eartips or SD?

 

[Maxx134]

Don't think I'm brave enough to try this but it looks really good. Great work.

out of curiosity, have you tested those ear-tips vs the SD resonator? without the other mods would you rather the eartips or SD?

Yes they both perform same function.

The SDR gives the HD800 sound with bit less, balanced trebles,

And the "S" mod gives you closest to 800S signature.

You can do those and be happy with reduced ringing.

The Dynamat mods are for elimination of the diffused aspect in the soundstage, giving you more transients focus.

So yeah the inserts are easiest to do.
Also the subbass mod is easy.