[Novik tube]

After my post about 6N6P, a forum member wrote to me with a clarifying question!

And I decided to answer for everyone who may be interested in the evolution of this tube!

When collecting information, I realized that it is better to have a photo of the original tubes, and not someone else's photo

As I pointed out in the first post, Foton (Tashkent) started making this type of tube around 60 (box anode) In 1961-62, there were two upgrades and the final one was produced until 65! Distinctive detail - square getter

The next version 6N6P is a different factory - a dark rhombus with paint and not etching, presumably the old trademark of the Reflector (PUL (Saratov) (respectively, another tube with the same name)
With a round cup-shaped getter and a very similar, but still different rhombus
I have samples from 66 to 69 years! I found a statement from specialists that they changed the material of the anode and the sound changed a lot, not for the better (?)



In parallel, this type of tube began to be produced in Novosibirsk by NEVZ. This version was produced in large quantities until the 90s!
Pay attention to the fastening of the upper mesh! After 69 he was removed!
Sometimes the getter is mounted on two legs, sometimes on one, maybe there is a 6N23P HOLY GRAIL Silver Shield `75 Rare Reflector (?)

Warning!! Version 6N6P-I - has a higher filament current of 0.9 against the standard 0.75 and in Valhalla it can overheat the transformer - although in other respects it is 99% analogue in a smaller glass bologna!

And at the end, a very rare version 6N6P-Ir (NEVZ) with a box-shaped anode! Some rate it higher than 6N30P-Dr (but also the filament current is 0.9A)

When I was preparing this post, my colleague sent a photo for which I could not find an explanation! (last photo attached)

Soviet rebus - maybe someone will have more information - I will be grateful for receiving it!

 

[TBBZ8X8]

Hey all!

I have had my Valhalla 2 for about 7 years now and decided I wanted to try a little tube rolling. Needless to say I am a bit overwhelmed but an earlier post on this thread convinced me I should buy some brimmer 4033's.

I purchased these (https://www.ebay.com/itm/392963494776) and when they arrived I was immediately aware that they wouldn't fit. I am told I can purchase an adapter but am a bit overwhelmed by the choices. Especially considering I don't want to damage anything, I figured I should get some expertise advice first!

Would this be a good adapter for the tubes I bought? (https://www.tubedepot.com/products/6sn7-to-6922-adapter)

Ideally I would get something off of eBay or Amazon but I need to take what I can get!

Also open to recommendations for the converter as well as recommendations for something called a "pin saver". I have never heard of it before but it seems useful for protecting pins (lol) as well as lifting the rear tubes so they are taller than the front tubes.

Thanks all and have a wonderful day!

 

[Ripper2860]

The adapters you linked will not work. That is 6SN7 to 6922 adapter. You need a 12AT7 or 12AU7 (top) to 6922/ECC88 (bottom).

Wait a minute!!! You bought flying leads versions of the tubes!!?? Yeah -- not gonna work. You really need to buy the terminated versions at TubeMonger or search out the Brimar CV455 at Langrex or eBay. CV455 is the finished version of a flying lead CV4033 and is really a tad better (and cheaper than Tubemonger's offering).

TubeMonger: https://www.tubemonger.com/searchresults.asp?Search=cv4033&Submit=

eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2741288080...4fkmsDfX/GJYpQObCzIvPMfA==|tkp:Bk9SR-S34YORYg

You will still need an adapter with either of the above: https://www.amazon.com/JEMOSA-Conve...ts&sprefix=ecc82+to+6922+adapter,mi,88&sr=1-2

 

[bcowen]

Hey all!

I have had my Valhalla 2 for about 7 years now and decided I wanted to try a little tube rolling. Needless to say I am a bit overwhelmed but an earlier post on this thread convinced me I should buy some brimmer 4033's.

I purchased these (https://www.ebay.com/itm/392963494776) and when they arrived I was immediately aware that they wouldn't fit. I am told I can purchase an adapter but am a bit overwhelmed by the choices. Especially considering I don't want to damage anything, I figured I should get some expertise advice first!

Would this be a good adapter for the tubes I bought? (https://www.tubedepot.com/products/6sn7-to-6922-adapter)

Ideally I would get something off of eBay or Amazon but I need to take what I can get!

Also open to recommendations for the converter as well as recommendations for something called a "pin saver". I have never heard of it before but it seems useful for protecting pins (lol) as well as lifting the rear tubes so they are taller than the front tubes.

Thanks all and have a wonderful day!

What @Ripper2860 said, exactly.

Only thing I might add is to go with the tubes in the second link he posted for the Ebay listing from seller 'yitry' (Langrex). They are the Footscray plant production that everyone around here (including myself) find to be exceptional.

There's no real need to get socket savers (not pin savers) for this application unless you just want them, but these are what you'd be looking for:

https://www.amazon.com/Yibuy-2-7x2-...675&sprefix=9+pin+socket+saver,aps,103&sr=8-2

 

[Shane D]

It was a nice week of rolling tubes. I got another three pairs in and they are all clean and quiet.

 

[Ripper2860]

The Brimar CV2492 are nice and require no adapters.

 

[TBBZ8X8]

The adapters you linked will not work. That is 6SN7 to 6922 adapter. You need a 12AT7 or 12AU7 (top) to 6922/ECC88 (bottom).

Wait a minute!!! You bought flying leads versions of the tubes!!?? Yeah -- not gonna work. You really need to buy the terminated versions at TubeMonger or search out the Brimar CV455 at Langrex or eBay. CV455 is the finished version of a flying lead CV4033 and is really a tad better (and cheaper than Tubemonger's offering).

TubeMonger: https://www.tubemonger.com/searchresults.asp?Search=cv4033&Submit=

eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/274128808004?epid=1434110315&hash=item3fd359a844:g:5AgAAOSwBbhg7ZkR&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAAwOtATw6Gb2oLfpzPb/30/Ja/CU98IREdR23yPdolA3A+Nt1QmneYwHI9tbaMEeJpJcOVaxwvoDazg5ayrk6wA0wz2pAyOG27u8eS9LbHbHsu4wCh84cwUO2i7/Kwjf3KyqySstTJSZoCSPaSy2JoD1TqssuC94vPLXZRAlOGmubajQdaSh4GenEmhFyUK8mvqMFG4rjBta4pJ8vaJh5JLWNHkiIYJqiVMa//hPAUDJ4fkmsDfX/GJYpQObCzIvPMfA==|tkp:Bk9SR-S34YORYg

You will still need an adapter with either of the above: https://www.amazon.com/JEMOSA-Convert-Amplifier-Adapter-Bakelite/dp/B091ZD3TNG/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2800L4BYV89M5&keywords=ecc82+to+6922+adapter&qid=1685912980&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=ecc82+to+6922+adapter,mi,88&sr=1-2

Would you mind elaborating on what flying lead tubes are?

I mean obviously they have those super long thin pins but why can I not terminate them myself? What is the purpose of flying lead tubes if they need to be terminated to be useful?

I did find this thread that seemed to describe soldering fly lead tubes to adapters working. Do you think it would be worth a shot? (https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...e-9-pin-tubes-from-their-storage-base.749439/)

 

[LobalWarming]

Would you mind elaborating on what flying lead tubes are?

I mean obviously they have those super long thin pins but why can I not terminate them myself? What is the purpose of flying lead tubes if they need to be terminated to be useful?

Flying lead tubes were meant to be soldered in place on the circuit board. You could do that with your amp. However, will make tube rolling a much slower thing.

But you can do what the tubemonger charges a fortune for. Simply solder the flying leads into a socket saver. However, spelling pinning counts. Need to ensure the correct arrangement. There isn't an undo button included. Ask @bcowen for the diagram and how-to. Or even better, just have him solder the tubes up for you - for free!

 

[bcowen]

Flying lead tubes were meant to be soldered in place on the circuit board. You could do that with your amp. However, will make tube rolling a much slower thing.

But you can do what the tubemonger charges a fortune for. Simply solder the flying leads into a socket saver. However, spelling pinning counts. Need to ensure the correct arrangement. There isn't an undo button included. Ask @bcowen for the diagram and how-to. Or even better, just have him solder the tubes up for you - for free!

I've never done a noval-sized tube with flying leads. But one thing I can guarantee positively and absolutely is that it won't look anywhere near as good as TubeMongers. As for doing them for free, I'd be most happy to. Just be aware that the shipping will be $50. Per tube.

Here's a Mullard Mini-Me. Wasn't hard, but lots of extra maneuvering room with the tiny bottle.

I made it look better not as bad:

And a Melz 6N16B-I (6SN7 variant) that I didn't make look better not as bad 'cause it kinda sucked:

 

[Ripper2860]

Would you mind elaborating on what flying lead tubes are?

I mean obviously they have those super long thin pins but why can I not terminate them myself? What is the purpose of flying lead tubes if they need to be terminated to be useful?

I did find this thread that seemed to describe soldering fly lead tubes to adapters working. Do you think it would be worth a shot? (https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...e-9-pin-tubes-from-their-storage-base.749439/)

Sure it can be done. If you wish to take that on then you have more skill or patience than I do. You asked for assistance with adapters. What you are proposing falls outside of pre-built adapter recommendations.

Best of luck and be sure to keep us updated on your efforts. I'm sure there are others that are able to provide greater assistance in termination of flying lead tubes.

 

[Novik tube]

Hey all!

I have had my Valhalla 2 for about 7 years now and decided I wanted to try a little tube rolling. Needless to say I am a bit overwhelmed but an earlier post on this thread convinced me I should buy some brimmer 4033's.

I purchased these (https://www.ebay.com/itm/392963494776) and when they arrived I was immediately aware that they wouldn't fit. I am told I can purchase an adapter but am a bit overwhelmed by the choices. Especially considering I don't want to damage anything, I figured I should get some expertise advice first!

Would this be a good adapter for the tubes I bought? (https://www.tubedepot.com/products/6sn7-to-6922-adapter)

Ideally I would get something off of eBay or Amazon but I need to take what I can get!

Also open to recommendations for the converter as well as recommendations for something called a "pin saver". I have never heard of it before but it seems useful for protecting pins (lol) as well as lifting the rear tubes so they are taller than the front tubes.

Thanks all and have a wonderful day!

Hello!
You decided to play tube replacement! You may or may not like this game!
I strongly do not recommend that you do anything with this tube yourself!
Even an experienced technician can make a mistake in installing it directly into your amplifier!
Moreover, there is a high voltage that is life-threatening, as well as the ability to damage your favorite amplifier and more!
A few pages ago, when replacing a tube (as he thinks), a one of the user lost more than one thousand dollars by damaging the equipment connected to the amplifier.

Given the low cost of the tube, you can simply hold it it for a while or try to return the tube to the seller on ebay!
In the description , he incorrectly stated the analogues of tube!
12AT7 (ECS81) is similar only in electrical parameters and cannot be used without a complex and very expensive converter! (A warning or note about this should be made in the description if the tube is stated as an analogue)
Such a discrepancy may be regarded as "Item does not match the description" and is returned through the ebay money back guarantee.


The converter that you bought is also not suitable for your amplifier - but this is no longer a seller's mistake, the product description is completely correct.

In any case, I think it's better to try something else and start without a converter!
There are many different types of tubes and different prices that you can buy for a reasonable price!
There are many more options than those discussed in the 174 pages of this thread!

It would be very nice if many real owners of Valhalla would share their experience in replacing tubes, and not recommendations to buy a certain type of tube or the best type of converter from them!

 

[Runrunsmithfly]

I'm a real Vahalla 2 owner and love it. My experience replacing tubes are all positive. Stuck with the 6922 "family" of tubes. I did buy risers and taller feet to put on the bottom of it. It doesn't run any hotter than my Asgard 3 now and cooler than my Asgard 2 did.

 

[Shane D]

I'm a real Vahalla 2 owner and love it. My experience replacing tubes are all positive. Stuck with the 6922 "family" of tubes. I did buy risers and taller feet to put on the bottom of it. It doesn't run any hotter than my Asgard 3 now and cooler than my Asgard 2 did.

The risers definitely make a difference in unit heat. It is now Much cooler than my Little Dot. I also stuck with the 6922 family and now have about seven pairs.

 

[jonathan c]

With the Pulse Tube Store 12A**—>E88CC adapters, on can have great results in Valhalla II with tubes such as ‘triple mica’ Sylvania 12AT7. I have .

 

[TBBZ8X8]

I've never done a noval-sized tube with flying leads. But one thing I can guarantee positively and absolutely is that it won't look anywhere near as good as TubeMongers. As for doing them for free, I'd be most happy to. Just be aware that the shipping will be $50. Per tube.

Here's a Mullard Mini-Me. Wasn't hard, but lots of extra maneuvering room with the tiny bottle.



I made it look better not as bad:




And a Melz 6N16B-I (6SN7 variant) that I didn't make look better not as bad 'cause it kinda sucked:

Thanks for the awesome advice! Given the suggestion of @Novik tube would I really be at risk of damaging my equipment? This is starting to intrigue me as a fun project and less as a way to save money. I'd love to try it out of curiosity but if there's a chance of destroying my amp then maybe it would be better to just get some properly terminated tubes.

If I do end up buying new tubes are the Brimmer CV455's worth the money at the moment? Or am I going to be better off in the long run with a 6922 pinout tube?