[ThurstonX]

   
Full Siemens code looks to be... first line: GA 0 & second line: vertical line thru = sign 9 L
 
iPhone pic is the closest I can get.
 
Thanks, Robert

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

 

 
I'll correct myself.  GA0 sounds like it'd be 1959.  SInce 'L' is December, I reckon they'd already moved away from 'D' getters, if Siemens ever used them.

 

[ThurstonX]

  Just wanted to do small update,
 
as far as my tubes goes, I guess I won't even try anything else.
 
Yesterday I rolled in NOS E188CC CV5354 7308 Siemens Halske 1960´s gold pins  , let them in "burning" for about 2 hours. I know I'am supposed to wait for 20 - 100h before doing "critical" listening, but I did it right away (So maybe it will get even better in future)
 
I just laid down on bed, turned lights off and listened for about 5-6 hours with small breaks. I was going from 6N1P Voskhod Rockets 1981's and there is "Hell lot of difference" it's no subtle change. I was hoping to hit a jackpot with one pair of "expensive" tubes and I believe I did. Money well spend in my opinion. It feels like completely different amp.
 
Some changes were very apparent immediately, soundstage got huge, sound become very "3d/holographic/immersive" and treble harshness was gone even at loud levels. Everything kind of smoothed out, feels likes uncomfortable peaks I heard in some recordings are just gone. Other changes I'am noticing so far are : better resolution, transparency and even more "refined/controlled" bass. 
 
These tubes are trully superb from my experience. Hope they will last me long.
 
Now basically every piece of music I listen to sounds very immersive, dynamic and enjoyable so I'am done for now Found what I was looking for.
 
Btw, I was thinking what to do about Lyr high temperature, which probably isn't ideal for longevity of Lyr/tubes and got little solution ->

 

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

 
 
Seems it helped a lot, Lyr is now much cooler by touch.
 
edit: Oh and microphonics, floor noise , what is that ?

 
Glad they worked out for you!  I know how much you were agonizing over which tubes to get.  Is that a K712 I see plugged in?
 
re: Lyr and heat, while I did something similar in raising the Lyr above the Bifrost, according to Jason all their schiit is designed to take the heat.  Still, can't hurt to have a little extra air flow.  Socket savers cool the volume knob down a bit, but I think it's the MOSFETs generating most of the heat.  The savers can help if you're rolling different tubes with some regularity, but it sounds like you're set.
 
Congrats, and enjoy the music 

 

[rb2013]

   
I've not had hum problems at all before these tubes.  Disappears with others.
 
Funny you mention phono setups.  I just got a Mani from Schiit so I could move my dust-gathering turntable upstairs.  Now I'm getting intermittent - but often enough - static-y electrical pops and crackling.  Moved it back downstairs to rule out the Mani and turntable, and the setup played fine.  The only suspect I have left are a couple of WiFi adapters in PCs in that room.  The WiFi router is in the same downstairs room where the turntable used to be, and it didn't affect it in my troubleshooting today.  I'm really hoping it's the WiFi, as I can disable those devices when I want to listen to vinyl.  It's definitely not a GLH problem.
 
Any thoughts on that?

Staticy pops?  Yeah GLH is a just that a hum.  But just to be sure the ground wire is not tarnished (DeoXit Gold works good here as well) from the table/arm and well connected to the phono pre.  And same for the RCAs - especially if you haven't used it in awhile.  I doubt a WiFi router would cause this kind of RFI.

 

[rb2013]

  Just wanted to do small update,
 
as far as my tubes goes, I guess I won't even try anything else.
 
Yesterday I rolled in NOS E188CC CV5354 7308 Siemens Halske 1960´s gold pins  , let them in "burning" for about 2 hours. I know I'am supposed to wait for 20 - 100h before doing "critical" listening, but I did it right away (So maybe it will get even better in future)
 
I just laid down on bed, turned lights off and listened for about 5-6 hours with small breaks. I was going from 6N1P Voskhod Rockets 1981's and there is "Hell lot of difference" it's no subtle change. I was hoping to hit a jackpot with one pair of "expensive" tubes and I believe I did. Money well spend in my opinion. It feels like completely different amp.
 
Some changes were very apparent immediately, soundstage got huge, sound become very "3d/holographic/immersive" and treble harshness was gone even at loud levels. Everything kind of smoothed out, feels likes uncomfortable peaks I heard in some recordings are just gone. Other changes I'am noticing so far are : better resolution, transparency and even more "refined/controlled" bass. 
 
These tubes are trully superb from my experience. Hope they will last me long.
 
Now basically every piece of music I listen to sounds very immersive, dynamic and enjoyable so I'am done for now Found what I was looking for.
 
Btw, I was thinking what to do about Lyr high temperature, which probably isn't ideal for longevity of Lyr/tubes and got little solution ->
 
 
 
 
Seems it helped a lot, Lyr is now much cooler by touch.
 
edit: Oh and microphonics, floor noise , what is that ?

Those 81 6N1p Rockets are at the bottom of the heap - you should try the much better '70s SWGP 6n23ps.  I found the 6N1Ps very etchy and closed in.  You should read this - a ranking of the best Voskhod 6n23p's.  You're comparing $20 throw aways to $150 Siemens.  http://www.head-fi.org/t/549508/schiit-lyr-the-tube-rolling-thread/8595
 
Like saying 'damn this 911 GT2 handles better then my old Yugo'
 
It's been mentioned here repeatedly the 6N1Ps run very hot due to twice the heater current then the 6n23p or 6922 - that's why they're incompatible in the Lyr2.  I had thermal readings with my Klein meter over 138 degrees on the 6N1P's- with the 6n23p or 6922 108 degrees.

 

[Flisker]

   
Glad they worked out for you!  I know how much you were agonizing over which tubes to get.  Is that a K712 I see plugged in?
 
re: Lyr and heat, while I did something similar in raising the Lyr above the Bifrost, according to Jason all their schiit is designed to take the heat.  Still, can't hurt to have a little extra air flow.  Socket savers cool the volume knob down a bit, but I think it's the MOSFETs generating most of the heat.  The savers can help if you're rolling different tubes with some regularity, but it sounds like you're set.
 
Congrats, and enjoy the music 

 
Thanks, actually I would like to thank all of you guys you helped me a lot with my decision
 
And right you are about K712's
 

 
I believe they're great complementary to LCD2's , bigger soundstage, more treble, but still very enjoyable for me And oh boy they they sound so much better with these tubes
 

  Those 81 6N1p Rockets are at the bottom of the heap - you should try the much better '70s SWGP 6n23ps.  I found the 6N1Ps very etchy and closed in.  You should read this - a ranking of Voskhod 6n23p's.  You're comparing $20 throw aways to $150 Siemens.  http://www.head-fi.org/t/549508/schiit-lyr-the-tube-rolling-thread/8595
 
Like saying -'damn this 911 GT2 handles better then my Yugo'

 
Have same feelings about them as you do. Will check out the link.

 

[ThurstonX]

  Staticy pops?  Yeah GLH is a just that a hum.  But just to be sure the ground wire is not tarnished (DeoXit Gold works good here as well) from the table/arm and well connected to the phono pre.  And same for the RCAs - especially if you haven't used it in awhile.  I doubt a WiFi router would cause this kind of RFI.

 
Seems it really is WiFi interference.  I tested this way: turn off one PC completely; problem still there.  Disable WiFi adapter in main PC; problem still there.  Re-enable that adapter: major noise as it's establishing its connection.  Static-y pops/crackle become a screech briefly.  100% repeatable.
 
I cleaned the relevant RCAs and then applied the same DeoxIT Gold I use on tubes (came in the Survival Kit).
 
re: grounding, this is my next task.  The TT has no ground wire, and the plug isn't even polarized, just straight blades.  Not sure if that matters.  The manual I snagged from Vinyl Engine shows a ground wire associated with the RCAs coming out.  Just not there, and can't recall it ever being there.  There is a single small brass looking screw where the power cord comes out.  There is no matching screw on the other side of the back of the TT.  Do you think I could rig a ground wire using a crimp-on U-shaped connector on that screw and whatever the Mani phono stage takes (looks like RCA or U-connector).
 
Also going to try and isolate the TT or Mani (wall wart, I'd guess), but not sure about procedure.  With TT, I guess I can plug it straight into an amp (Lyr or C5).  Don't care about music, as the problem happens with the platter not even spinning, much less needle to vinyl.  With the Mani, I'm hesitant to plug in anything but a TT.  As with the TT, I don't think the non-TT source would have to be outputting a signal in order to replicate the problem.  If I can isolate it, then I can decide whether or not to return the Mani and try a different phono preamp, or get a cheap TT to replace the JVC (Audio-Technica at $100 is doable).  Don't want to invest too much in another TT at this point.  Maybe something vintage in the future.
 
Sorry for the major OT, folks, but maybe this will help someone else.

 

[rb2013]

   
Seems it really is WiFi interference.  I tested this way: turn off one PC completely; problem still there.  Disable WiFi adapter in main PC; problem still there.  Re-enable that adapter: major noise as it's establishing its connection.  Static-y pops/crackle become a screech briefly.  100% repeatable.
 
I cleaned the relevant RCAs and then applied the same DeoxIT Gold I use on tubes (came in the Survival Kit).
 
re: grounding, this is my next task.  The TT has no ground wire, and the plug isn't even polarized, just straight blades.  Not sure if that matters.  The manual I snagged from Vinyl Engine shows a ground wire associated with the RCAs coming out.  Just not there, and can't recall it ever being there.  There is a single small brass looking screw where the power cord comes out.  There is no matching screw on the other side of the back of the TT.  Do you think I could rig a ground wire using a crimp-on U-shaped connector on that screw and whatever the Mani phono stage takes (looks like RCA or U-connector).
 
Also going to try and isolate the TT or Mani (wall wart, I'd guess), but not sure about procedure.  With TT, I guess I can plug it straight into an amp (Lyr or C5).  Don't care about music, as the problem happens with the platter not even spinning, much less needle to vinyl.  With the Mani, I'm hesitant to plug in anything but a TT.  As with the TT, I don't think the non-TT source would have to be outputting a signal in order to replicate the problem.  If I can isolate it, then I can decide whether or not to return the Mani and try a different phono preamp, or get a cheap TT to replace the JVC (Audio-Technica at $100 is doable).  Don't want to invest too much in another TT at this point.  Maybe something vintage in the future.
 
Sorry for the major OT, folks, but maybe this will help someone else.

Yes it appears that is a ground connection.  On these vintage turntables it isn't uncommon to have no ground wire.  You could wrap your wifi router in ERS paper - but I guess that would defeat the purpose - but you could wrap the rca cables out from the tt in ERS wrap.  I just ordered this to line the inside of the Gustard. http://www.partsconnexion.com/spoints-66632img.html It's cheap enough at $3.95 a foot.
 
If you decide to replace your table - I would highly recommend the vintage Dual 721 - it's an amazing table for the money (I've had many sota tables like the Rega P9 and VPI SSM).
 

 

[ThurstonX]

  Yes it appears that is a ground connection.  On these vintage turntables it isn't uncommon to have no ground wire.  You could wrap your wifi router in ERS paper - but I guess that would defeat the purpose - but you could wrap the rca cables out from the tt in ERS wrap.  I just ordered this to line the inside of the Gustard. http://www.partsconnexion.com/spoints-66632img.html It's cheap enough at $3.95 a foot.
 
If you decide to replace your table - I would highly recommend the vintage Dual 721 - it's an amazing table for the money (I've had many sota tables like the Rega P9 and VPI SSM).
 

 
Router isn't the problem.  It's downstairs, and when I tested the TT with the Mani both through my Kenwood AVR and C5 portable, it was all quiet.  Used speakers and cans respectively to test, and jacked up the volume to dangerous levels with no music playing.
 
Thanks for the link.  I was looking for something like that.  Depending on how further tests go, I might give that a shot.
 
Even on Goodwill that Dual went for $202.  Too much atm, but I'll keep it in mind.  I'm a sucker for wood.  Bet it would sound swell through the Lyr with some fine glass.  There, on-topic 

 
 

---

 
Quick update and last post on this.
 
TT into Lyr = no static.  Add Mani to the chain, static.  Verdict, adios, Mani.  That's good, as I get the refund and don't have to buy a new TT.  Now, what to do...

 

[Oskari]

  I'll correct myself.  GA0 sounds like it'd be 1959.  SInce 'L' is December, I reckon they'd already moved away from 'D' getters, if Siemens ever used them.

 
Agreed.

 

[ThurstonX]

  Agreed.

 
Do you know if Siemens ever used a 'D' getter?  I'd assume they did, but...

 

[Oskari]

  Do you know if Siemens ever used a 'D' getter?  I'd assume they did, but...

 
Don't know about ECC88s but they did in early E88CCs.

 

[jaywillin]

just got a pair of these , 
 

 

[gibosi]

  just got a pair of these , 

 
Would you tell us the production codes?

 

[jaywillin]

   
Would you tell us the production codes?

haven't received them yet, got them from mercedesman
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221587017482?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

[Oskari]

I think I see VR5 *5D and 65-43.