Schiit Happened: The Story of the World's Most Improbable Start-Up
Mar 21, 2018 at 7:34 PM Post #30,571 of 149,631
My goal is to be the last remaining person, in the US at least, without a Facebook account. Still sticking to my guns... and Facebook can stick it.

...sounds like you may be in a similar boat...

And I'll be the last one in Canada

JC
 
Mar 21, 2018 at 7:49 PM Post #30,572 of 149,631
My goal is to be the last remaining person, in the US at least, without a Facebook account. Still sticking to my guns... and Facebook can stick it.

...sounds like you may be in a similar boat...
I have an account but don't use it, so don't have the password memorized and would've had to go look for it.

A few years back, I had an different account, that I made to give props to an off road vendor who's products I used on my truck. I then made the mistake of friending/adding my high school class on it. Within a couple of weeks I had quite a few ladies requesting friend status. Next thing I know, my wall is covered with stories about their grand children, and other cutesy old lady stuff. Had to shut it down, because I didn't want to unfriend all of them. :grimacing:
 
Mar 21, 2018 at 8:11 PM Post #30,573 of 149,631
It is becoming more and more evident to more and more, that 'social media' is a data mining and manipulation operation.

Not just no thank you, but,
HEL* NO!.

YMMV
JJ
 
Mar 21, 2018 at 8:28 PM Post #30,574 of 149,631
I don't know if someone else answered in the meantime, many posts between then and now,
They would plug in just as you see them, the difference being the multibit sits to the outside of the amp pcb's 10 pin connector instead of the inside like the DS DAC.
You can see six of the ten soldered ends of the connector in the bottom left of the multibit photo, between the "VR1" printing by the voltage reg. and the black and gold capacitor.



From looking at the board. Those in the yellow might be the pin outs and the board install horizontally. It might be too wide vertically. This is just my guess. However, in the blue, I'm wondering what it is for. For Opamp? A board within a board which upgradable, crazy huh :D
Thank you for the replies! It seems pretty simple now how they're installed.
 
Mar 21, 2018 at 8:39 PM Post #30,575 of 149,631
Mar 21, 2018 at 8:47 PM Post #30,576 of 149,631
It is becoming more and more evident to more and more, that 'social media' is a data mining and manipulation operation.

Not just no thank you, but,
HEL* NO!.

YMMV
JJ
1757.gif
 
Mar 21, 2018 at 9:01 PM Post #30,577 of 149,631
I've seen a couple of people post something along the lines of 'and the DAC should be left on all the time because mumble'. Can someone explain why DAC's should be left on all the time, and if this is subjective or objective (or both)?
 
Mar 21, 2018 at 9:04 PM Post #30,578 of 149,631
I wondered that too,
obviously not too tactfully
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/hap...ng-modi-multibit.815368/page-35#post-12782965

Baldr wasn't charmed.
I'm impressed you managed to penetrate his infamously thick skin :wink:

I thought about it some more. The guts of Mimby seem be around $200, $50 less than the full price by losing the case, the optical and coax inputs, and the wall wart, but Bimby still has the two inputs, so make that maybe $220. Eitr is $179, but we don't need the case and its wall wart, so make that $150 or something. So $370 for a naked Bimby without a power supply and without upgradeability. Asgard 2 has the case, and presumably a good power supply as well, but also a volume knob which Bimby doesn't need and, well, the whole amp thing. So maybe $150 for the parts we need? Makes $520 for a fully dressed Bimby, but without upgradeability. $80 more for that, and we're at $600. Obviously my numbers are probably off here and there, but we're in the same ballpark.
Alright. Not that surprising, actually. A shame, but it does make sense now. Let's hope Schiit's custom USB implementation is not just smaller than gen 5 USB, but also cheaper.
 
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Mar 21, 2018 at 9:18 PM Post #30,579 of 149,631
I've seen a couple of people post something along the lines of 'and the DAC should be left on all the time because mumble'. Can someone explain why DAC's should be left on all the time, and if this is subjective or objective (or both)?

Multibit DACs should be left on all the time. The resistive ladder network takes a long time to achieve temperature stability and doesn't achieve its optimum SQ until it does so. You don't have to leave it on but it won't sound its best if you don't.

FWIW, my Gumby has been on 24/7 since I bought it a couple of years ago.

JC
 
Mar 21, 2018 at 9:26 PM Post #30,580 of 149,631
I've seen a couple of people post something along the lines of 'and the DAC should be left on all the time because mumble'. Can someone explain why DAC's should be left on all the time, and if this is subjective or objective (or both)?
Both.
And Schiit does recommend leaving the Jggy on, all the time, for a reason, one that can be heard by those who wish to hear what this is all about.

Some attribute these changes to simply thermal effects, others (myself included) see a more complex picture which involves much more than just heat.
But spending the time to explain, and subsequently dealing with some of the face palm reactions from those 'who supposedly know better' (ie the measure it crowd) usually means it just isn't worth the effort to even try.

Others may step up and provide their grasp of this situation as is their desire.

Fortunately you can decide for yourself, or not, your choice.

JJ
 
Mar 21, 2018 at 9:29 PM Post #30,582 of 149,631
So there’s no Valhalla 3 option

For me, I wouldn't necessarily want a Valhalla 3 with DAC capability, but what I would love to see is the next gen of Valhalla with the lessons learned from Saga and Lyr 3 i.e. single tube design with improved architecture. I have a Jotty with the phono card, with single ended input coming from my Fulla 2's line out. Single ended output goes to my power amp. I'm not using the balanced design (though I did when I first purchased the Jotunheim). But I digress - TLDR: Love my Jotunheim, want some new tube action somewhere between Vali 2 and Valhalla 2.

No idea how much adding additional tubes costs in terms of the BOM and if reducing that to 1 tube would lead to significant enough savings, but there might be even be an argument to be made for merging Vali 3 and Valhalla 3 into a single line at the $180-$240 price point. I'd be all over that.
 
Mar 21, 2018 at 9:41 PM Post #30,583 of 149,631
I'm impressed you managed to penetrate his infamously thick skin :wink:

I thought about it some more. The guts of Mimby seem be around $200, $50 less than the full price by losing the case, the optical and coax inputs, and the wall wart, but Bimby still has the two inputs, so make that maybe $220. Eitr is $179, but we don't need the case and its wall wart, so make that $150 or something. So $370 for a naked Bimby without a power supply and without upgradeability. Asgard 2 has the case, and presumably a good power supply as well, but also a volume knob which Bimby doesn't need and, well, the whole amp thing. So maybe $150 for the parts we need? Makes $520 for a fully dressed Bimby, but without upgradeability. $80 more for that, and we're at $600. Obviously my numbers are probably off here and there, but we're in the same ballpark.
Alright. Not that surprising, actually. A shame, but it does make sense now. Let's hope Schiit's custom USB implementation is not just smaller than gen 5 USB, but also cheaper.
When I looked at it it was pre gen5 USB so that would be another $150 gap wrt your estimates, I don't think Gen 5 would cost an awful lot more than previous gen, same cm6631a and like 2 pulse transformers @ $3 a pop, better analog?, + + +, not $150 extra I would think.
However, it is what it is.
You pay your money you make your choice.

I have early Bimby, no gen5, but I use coax anyhoo so I'm happy with what I've got because it stacks with my Jot :),
 
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