[ArmchairPhilosopher]

@ArmchairPhilosopher what speakers are you using?

KEF Q950

Yes; while they're advertised as 8ohm, I know that they can drop down to as low 3 at lower frequencies.
And yes, that's absolutely pushing it with the Aegirs in mono.

My issue isn't so much with the fact that one of them is tripping into fault mode, it's that ONLY one of them is.
If both of them would trip over the Q950's, I'd simply concede that it's tough luck on my end, and I'd just eat the loss and move on to a different amp that would be better suited for the speakers. Or keep just one and run it in stereo. Or replace the speakers with something that's easier to drive. You get the point.

But the fact that just one of them keeps tripping and the other one never has done so even just once under the same circumstances is what's so odd. Either one of them trips for no good reason, or the other one SHOULD trip but doesn't, and I have a fire hazard on my hands that's just waiting to happen.

Schiit seems to agree that something's off. I just got word that they'd like to take another look at both units, the Aegir, as well as the Lokius.

 

[Mike-WI]

KEF Q950

Yes; while they're advertised as 8ohm, I know that they can drop down to as low 3 at lower frequencies.
And yes, that's absolutely pushing it with the Aegirs in mono.

My issue isn't so much with the fact that one of them is tripping into fault mode, it's that ONLY one of them is.
If both of them would trip over the Q950's, I'd simply concede that it's tough luck on my end, and I'd just eat the loss and move on to a different amp that would be better suited for the speakers. Or keep just one and run it in stereo. Or replace the speakers with something that's easier to drive. You get the point.

But the fact that just one of them keeps tripping and the other one never has done so even just once under the same circumstances is what's so odd. Either one of them trips for no good reason, or the other one SHOULD trip but doesn't, and I have a fire hazard on my hands that's just waiting to happen.

Schiit seems to agree that something's off. I just got word that they'd like to take another look at both units, the Aegir, as well as the Lokius.

I thought this concept from Stereophile measurements was of interest...

Equivalent peak dissipation resistance (EPDR)

Footnote 1: EPDR is the resistive load that gives rise to the same peak dissipation in an amplifier's output devices as the loudspeaker. See "Audio Power Amplifiers for Loudspeaker Loads," JAES, Vol.42 No.9, September 1994, and stereophile.com/reference/707heavy/index.html

Permalink: http://www.aes.org/e-lib/browse.cfm?elib=19097

 

[Kyyul]

Recently i purchased a second hand Vali2 and a collection of tubes. I am very new to the tube game and mostly satisfying curiosity with the purchase. Already had a Vali2+ but the allure of more tubes drove the purchase. I don’t mind collecting Schiit. The stack must grow!

Anyway, is there a reliable way to test tubes other than just plugging them into an amp and giving it a listen? Most have labeled that are faded or gone completely. One of the tubes was marked from the seller as “best tube” and that’s what I’ve been using since the purchase because I’ve been unable to really tell a difference between any of the tubes.

 

[Paladin79]

Recently i purchased a second hand Vali2 and a collection of tubes. I am very new to the tube game and mostly satisfying curiosity with the purchase. Already had a Vali2+ but the allure of more tubes drove the purchase. I don’t mind collecting Schiit. The stack must grow!

Anyway, is there a reliable way to test tubes other than just plugging them into an amp and giving it a listen? Most have labeled that are faded or gone completely. One of the tubes was marked from the seller as “best tube” and that’s what I’ve been using since the purchase because I’ve been unable to really tell a difference between any of the tubes.

You can buy a tube tester but they are not cheap, I was fortunate to get one from a college for around $250 in immaculate condition but many can run $500 to $1,000 depending on brand and features. PM me and I will pass along a friend here who sells refurbished models if you are interested in going that route. Hopefully whoever had the tubes before you had matched up the tubes to the Vali.

It can take time, experience, and very good headphones or speakers to be able to differentiate between tube sound and IMHO it varies a lot with the amp you are using. Oh and I got to a point where I only ran 6sn7's with proper adapter in the Vali 2, just a personal preference.

 

[33na3rd]

Recently i purchased a second hand Vali2 and a collection of tubes. I am very new to the tube game and mostly satisfying curiosity with the purchase. Already had a Vali2+ but the allure of more tubes drove the purchase. I don’t mind collecting Schiit. The stack must grow!

Anyway, is there a reliable way to test tubes other than just plugging them into an amp and giving it a listen? Most have labeled that are faded or gone completely. One of the tubes was marked from the seller as “best tube” and that’s what I’ve been using since the purchase because I’ve been unable to really tell a difference between any of the tubes.

I've thought about tube testers in the past, but decided that was more than I really needed. I only buy tubes from trusted sellers who test their tubes and offer exchanges if there is a problem. I've had to send a couple of tubes back for exchange, but I've never been stuck with a bad tube without recourse.

When I sell a used component, I put the cheapest working tubes that I have into it and save the good ones for myself. Maybe other sellers are nicer than me?

That's a very nice stack that you've put together, and I love your avatar!

 

[Paladin79]

I've thought about tube testers in the past, but decided that was more than I really needed. I only buy tubes from trusted sellers who test their tubes and offer exchanges if there is a problem. I've had to send a couple of tubes back for exchange, but I've never been stuck with a bad tube without recourse.

When I sell a used component, I put the cheapest working tubes that I have into it and save the good ones for myself. Maybe other sellers are nicer than me?

That's a very nice stack that you've put together, and I love your avatar!

The last production amp I sold was a Lyr 3 with multibit card and I honestly do not recall what tubes I included. I rarely sell tubes but have given away a lot of 6sn7's. I sent some to a gentleman in Beirut just so he would have an idea of RCA sound, compared to Sylvania or Tung Sol or GE (cough) or National Union or Ken-Rad. I gifted my son a Freya + so I keep matched pairs for his as well as my Freya since we will most likely hang onto those for many years.

 

[33na3rd]

The last production amp I sold was a Lyr 3 with multibit card and I honestly do not recall what tubes I included. I rarely sell tubes but have given away a lot of 6sn7's. I sent some to a gentleman in Beirut just so he would have an idea of RCA sound, compared to Sylvania or Tung Sol or GE (cough) or National Union or Ken-Rad. I gifted my son a Freya + so I keep matched pairs for his as well as my Freya since we will most likely hang onto those for many years.

You are very generous, and it has not escaped my notice that there are many generous members here.

I did once give away a very nice Telefunken 6922, but it was an accident. I didn't realize it was still installed!

 

[FLTWS]

LOL!

 

[Mofomamy]

Do we have any info/estimates on how much power Folkvangr will have on tap?

 

[A Jedi]

KEF Q950

Yes; while they're advertised as 8ohm, I know that they can drop down to as low 3 at lower frequencies.
And yes, that's absolutely pushing it with the Aegirs in mono.

My issue isn't so much with the fact that one of them is tripping into fault mode, it's that ONLY one of them is.
If both of them would trip over the Q950's, I'd simply concede that it's tough luck on my end, and I'd just eat the loss and move on to a different amp that would be better suited for the speakers. Or keep just one and run it in stereo. Or replace the speakers with something that's easier to drive. You get the point.

But the fact that just one of them keeps tripping and the other one never has done so even just once under the same circumstances is what's so odd. Either one of them trips for no good reason, or the other one SHOULD trip but doesn't, and I have a fire hazard on my hands that's just waiting to happen.

Schiit seems to agree that something's off. I just got word that they'd like to take another look at both units, the Aegir, as well as the Lokius.

So they drop to 3 ohm which means your bridged (mono) Aegirs are effectively seeing a 1.5 ohm load. They are rated and designed for 8 ohms in bridged/mono mode or 4 ohms stereo. I'm surprised they aren't both having problems. I don't think what's happening here is a "problem with one of the amps". I think what's happening is the other amp lucked out on parts tolerances and is handling a load it wasn't designed for. Run your "bad" amp stereo to your speakers. If it doesn't have issues, the problem is the load (that they're not designed for) you're subjecting them to.

 

[Mike-WI]

Do we have any info/estimates on how much power Folkvangr will have on tap?

Not sure that spec is out.

Info/speculation...

2021 Oct 16 - Jason Stoddard
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/sch...bable-start-up.701900/page-5526#post-16615446

On the detail work notes, this includes the final tweaking for Folkvangr, which has a chassis that is now acceptable thermally, but will still run very warm. This shouldn't surprise anyone who's had a tube amp before, but it may surprise a lot of first-time users. Now it's just down to the wait for the chassis parts.

2021 Jul 7 - Jason Stoddard
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/sch...bable-start-up.701900/page-5273#post-16444025
Audio is changing, too. Our ongoing efforts to make our entire product line better is one thing, but we’re also experimenting with new stuff (maybe Folkvangr is our solar-powered toaster), going back to old stuff, and designing to the new realities, like the increasing unavailability of tubes.

2021 Jun 14 - tincanear
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/sch...bable-start-up.701900/page-5220#post-16406948

IIRC, the Folkvangr is designed with 4x 6N6P output tubes for each channel, and a single triode section (half of 6N1P / 6DJ8 etc.) for the voltage gain stage. If the topology is similar to Valhalla 2, expect about 4x the output power (4x300mW = 1200mW) into a 75 ohm load. For Abyss 1266 which is 42 ohms, I would expect a bit more power (perhaps 1.5W to 2.0W) along with higher distortion.also remember that the Abyss is moderately efficient for a planar (88 dB/mW) and that dB are logarithmic, so 1.0W should still yield an SPL of 118 dB (over twice as loud as a smoke detector). presumably, when Folkvangr is released it will have a money-back return period (less re-stock fees) if it doesn't work out for you. Perhaps you could become a beta tester since you have a 1266.

2021 Apr 24 - tafens
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/sch...bable-start-up.701900/page-5045#post-16315305

I thought the same thing myself at first, but after Jason’s “Folkvangst”-relief post with the tube types and info that is screened on the tube tray I’m quite interested in getting one!

There are a few reasons for this:

1. Both 6N6P (like in Valhalla) and 6N1P (like in Valhalla and Vali2) tubes are still readily available, and
2. Although Folkvangr requires no less than 8 (eight!) 6N6P’s (and 6N6P only) they do not need to be matched,
3. The 6N1P’s do need to be matched, but it only requires two of them, and
4. Unlike the 6N6P’s the 6N1P’s can be rolled to a lot of different compatible types, and even more with adapters (possibly also our old pal 6SN7 like in Lyr3 as Vali2 can handle them nicely with a riser/socket saver and an adapter)
5. Further, looking at eBay, both 6N6P and 6N1P tubes can be had for about $25-$30 for a lot of ten (!),
6. Which means you possibly have a complete tube replacement set with spares for $50 or so (NOS)

At least unless some of the more notorious tube hoa.. I mean collectors grab them all now that the word is out

All in all, sounds like a great amp, without any reason or need for tube-angst!

2021 Apr 17 - Jason Stoddard
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/sch...bable-start-up.701900/page-5018#post-16302515

To help clear up some Folkvangst, here's what's screened on the tube tray:

No need for output matching--there's individual servo control of each output tube.

Also, there are no real alternatives to 6N6P--the JJ ECC99 is a different pinout. You need tube adapters to make those work correctly.

6CG7 will work without adapters, but will also run about 1/4 the output current of the 6N6P, so it'll be a wayyyyyy weaker amp.

 

[Pondoro]

Recently i purchased a second hand Vali2 and a collection of tubes. I am very new to the tube game and mostly satisfying curiosity with the purchase. Already had a Vali2+ but the allure of more tubes drove the purchase. I don’t mind collecting Schiit. The stack must grow!

Anyway, is there a reliable way to test tubes other than just plugging them into an amp and giving it a listen? Most have labeled that are faded or gone completely. One of the tubes was marked from the seller as “best tube” and that’s what I’ve been using since the purchase because I’ve been unable to really tell a difference between any of the tubes.

Any tube marked, “best tube” is obviously not in need of testing!

 

[Paladin79]

@Jason Stoddard I would certainly be interested in beta testing a Folkvangr if that is feasible, I would be curious to see how it does with 80 ohm Focal Utopias. I have owned most all of your tube gear.

Tom

 

[fugimax]

@Jason Stoddard I would certainly be interested in beta testing a Folkvangr if that is feasible, I would be curious to see how it does with 80 ohm Focal Utopias. I have owned most all of your tube gear.

Tom

For someone less well-versed with the Folkvangr proposition ... how should I think about it vis-a-vis something like the Mjolnir 2?

I was rocking original LCD-2's, but am now on LCD-5's, which (I think?) require less to drive. I am not an EE.

 

[valiant66]

Quod erat demonstrandum.

Indeed.

Or magic.

Probably magic.

Clearly magic.
.