Schiit Happened: The Story of the World's Most Improbable Start-Up

[RickB]

There is a Modi 3 and there is a Modi Multibit; there is no Modi 3 Multibit
Sorry to be pedantic but reading "Modi 3 Multibit" makes my brain hurt

Actually, the codename for the Modi Multibit is Modi 3 Multiverse Double Plus Good.

 

[A Jedi]

... Jason, that matches my personal experience when I did A/B testing between the Magni 3/Modi 3 and Vali 2/Modi 3 Multibit. I also tested an intermediate setup where the only difference was the regular Modi 3 and the Modi 3 Multibit. There is a small difference between the two versions of the Modi 3, but there is a larger difference between the Magni 3 and Vali 2. I love the combination of the Vali 2 with the Magni 3 Multibit. I agree that the difference is in the sound stage. Depending on the source, it will matter a lot. For example, live Jazz recordings sound waaaaay different, but most modern just sounds very nice.

marc

When you guys say there's a difference in soundstage, can you elaborate a bit? I have my Modi MB and Bifrost MB and no interest or desire to change - I'm just curious.

 

[Rensek]

When you guys say there's a difference in soundstage, can you elaborate a bit? I have my Modi MB and Bifrost MB and no interest or desire to change - I'm just curious.

Yeah +1 on that. I was going to ask Jason what tracks he can easily tell a difference on.

If I'm A/B ing, and I know what DAC is what, I can easily tell the differences between dacs. But if you were to just plug a random DAC in, and ask me to say what DAC I was listening too, I couldn't do it. At least not without a sys and two dacs in the same system for a week or two.

 

[Cuckoo And Delusional]

ed[/QUOTE]

Have it matched with a PS Audio Stellar S300 (Class D, gasp!) using balanced input (and also feeding a REL subwoofer using one of the single-ended outputs as well.) The S300 is the stereo version of the M700 monoblock (Stereophile gave that an A recommendation if that matters).

I really like the combination - nice presence given by the Freya+ with good punch and linearity from the PS Audio.

[edit] I'm using a quad of gold-pin ElectroHarmonix 6SN7 in mine.

ed

Thanks, this is great information. You have it set up pretty much the way I would. I would love to experiment with some vintage tubes but before you know it you can spend as much as the Freya+ costs!

I am fan of the Tung Sol tubes and would probably stick with them in the long run.

 

[Cuckoo And Delusional]

Yep! Yggdrasil (A2, gen5) to Freya+ to Mjolnir 1 to LCD-3 (all balanced).

I have the stock Tung-Sols currently, but will be trying out some '63 Melz 1578's soon.

Personally I enjoy the tube flavor added by Freya, and it's quite fun to switch between the three output stages effortlessly.

Great set up. Curious as to how the vintage tubes will compare.

 

[marca56]

When you guys say there's a difference in soundstage, can you elaborate a bit? I have my Modi MB and Bifrost MB and no interest or desire to change - I'm just curious.

... so the way I can best describe the difference is that it almost feels like you are in the room, not just that it sounds great. Both are nice but it's wild when you can hear that night and day difference. I find it when the recording is not over produced or mic'd, like on a live jazz set. I was doing the A/B comparison using Miles Davis and Thelonious Monk sets. It was pretty easy to hear the difference between the two versions of the Modi and the Vali compared to the Magni.

 

[valiant66]

Thanks each corner adjusts up and down and I can change shelf heights by inserting different lengths of copper pipe. I used some round sliders under the bottom feet so I can move it around easily to get to the back of it. I can also change to shiny copper if the mood ever strikes me to do so. It is very sturdy and stable.

Is it a gravity stabilized design? I.e. Are the uprights pipes loose in the flanges for easy replacement, or affixed in some manner?

It's certainly beautiful looking, even though I was one of those voting for verdigris-free copper.
.

 

[Paladin79]

Is it a gravity stabilized design? I.e. Are the uprights pipes loose in the flanges for easy replacement, or affixed in some manner?

It's certainly beautiful looking, even though I was one of those voting for verdigris-free copper.
.

gravity but with the patina, they are pretty tight inside the flanges. A rubber mallet would get them apart.

it is very sturdy, no reason to solder or glue them and as I change equipment I can easily change shelf height. I have plenty of copper pipe so I may change to shiny copper on occasion.

The flanges are screwed down of course, as long as the shelves match and you are careful, it all lines up pretty well.

 

[Ableza]

I A/B’d between Yggdrasil and an Ayer QB9 and also with a Wavelength Crimson and in both cases preferred the Yggdrasil. Which is why the others are sold.

 

[yonson]

Congrats on the great review of the Asgard 3 by Steve Guttenberg. Sounds like one hell of a good deal on a headphone amp:

Yeah, I want that shirt...

 

[Rensek]

That sounds cool, important question though... Where are the pics!

Nice post, and really great info. Thanks for sharing!
But I have to agree with @Rowethren ....where's the pics? Voyeurism is rampant around here.

Thanks, ask and ye shall receive. Please ignore the cable management disaster.



It's nothing special, the wife asked for rustic/farmhouse, and it was not designed with audio as the primary function. Even so I'm happy with how it turned out. It's the first piece of furniture I've built. I spent over an hour combing through the cedar deck boards at Lowes just to find 10 pieces that were halfway straight. All told I probably have 10-12 hours of labor in it and about 160 bucks in lumber and hardware. Most of the screws and brackets are hidden from sight. I screwed and glued everything from the bottom. I added a couple of brass brackets to each shelf and leg out of an abundance of caution. It holds 300 pounds with ease. Felt and cork footers on the bottom.

It's not as classy as Tom's rack, but the wife was pleased. I was happy that it's square & level, and doesn't wobble.

It's unfinished, just sanded a couple of times, cleaned, and wiped really well with a tack cloth.

Tools used for those interested, are table saw, miter saw, oscillating and mouse sanders, hand files, cordless drill, jack plane, bar clamps, hand clamps.

I am interested in obtaining a good set of Japanese woodworking tools, so if anyone knows of a good place to acquire those in the US please let me know.

 

[Rowethren]

Thanks, ask and ye shall receive. Please ignore the cable management disaster.



It's nothing special, the wife asked for rustic/farmhouse, and it was not designed with audio as the primary function. Even so I'm happy with how it turned out. It's the first piece of furniture I've built. I spent over an hour combing through the cedar deck boards at Lowe's and to find 10 pieces that were halfway straight. All told I probably have 10-12 hours of labor in it and about 160 bucks in lumber and hardware. Most of the screws and brackets are hidden from sight. I screwed and glued everything from the bottom. I added a couple of brass brackets to each shelf and leg out of an abundance of caution. It holds 300 pounds with ease. Felt and cork footers on the bottom.

It's not as classy as Tom's rack, but the wife was pleased. I was happy that it's square & level, and doesn't wobble.

It's unfinished, just sanded a couple of times, cleaned, and wiped really well with a tack cloth.

Tools used for those interested, are table saw, miter saw, oscillating and mouse sanders, hand files, cordless drill, jack plane, bar clamps, hand clamps.

I am interested in obtaining a good set of Japanese woodworking tools, so if anyone knows of a good place to acquire those in the US please let me know.

Don't put yourself down that looks really nice! A damn site better than I could make that is for sure...

 

[Rensek]

Don't put yourself down that looks really nice! A damn site better than I could make that is for sure...

Thanks!

Its good to have help, my dad was a shop teacher for 20 years, and has remodeled the family home about three times.. I leaned on him alot and learned as I went. The top shelf had the worst wood, and it turned out better then the bottom shelf, which had the best wood. I made all my decisions on aesthetic appearance of the wood, not paying enough attention to cupping, twisting, warps and bends. Big box store lumber is good for improving your skill. Its relatively cheap, and presents lots of challenges to make furniture out of it.

It also helps to have a guy who likes to come and drink your beer while pointing out different ways to do things.

 

[tafens]

This is pretty straight forward, maybe I can direct you to the parts.

That would be great, thanks!

 

[Paladin79]

That would be great, thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/Type-Hard-length-ft/dp/B0078RHAYC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=1/4+inch+copper+pipe&qid=1570872855&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Bunting-Bearings-ECOF040608-Powdered-Thickness/dp/B01G8XBHTK/ref=sr_1_57?keywords=1/4+inch+flange&qid=1570872521&sr=8-57

I could not find the type of flange I used for a reasonable price but something like the above could work. I would use 1/2 inch wood and drill a small indentation in the top and bottom of each shelf to accommodate this type of flange. More than likely I would epoxy the end pieces in place on the copper pipe. The Lyr 3 and Bifrost 2 are about 9x6 inches so I would use stock that is at least 12x8x1/2 inch. If you have a drill press it would really help.

I used a clear Danish oil and wax on my shelves but finish and wood type are up to you. If you want to add patina to the copper, (the flanges shown are just painted) I can PM you how to do that.

You could also just flare the end of the copper pipe, there are tools made for doing that exact thing and it would eliminate the need for the flanges. By eliminating the flange, 1/2 inch copper pipe could work. Ok this just got easier, hang in there and I may have a working model in a week or less.