[exdmd]

I have been enjoying my Eitr for a few weeks now but based on info from Puma Cat I decided to try upgrading cables. First the USB, then the S/PDIF then finally a high grade LPS. USB cables do make a difference and it can be significant. I have been using an AudioQuest Diamond for the past two days and it was well worth the cost! The Diamond made a huge difference in size of soundstage. Also imaging was improved with more air around voices and instruments. My chain is PC > Diamond USB > Eitr > Brooklyn DAC+ > Kenzie amp > HD800S phones. The Diamond probably is overkill on a mid-fi system that is less revealing but if you have a high end system it is worth considering.

 

[Puma Cat]

I have been enjoying my Eitr for a few weeks now but based on info from Puma Cat I decided to try upgrading cables. First the USB, then the S/PDIF then finally a high grade LPS. USB cables do make a difference and it can be significant. I have been using an AudioQuest Diamond for the past two days and it was well worth the cost! The Diamond made a huge difference in size of soundstage. Also imaging was improved with more air around voices and instruments. My chain is PC > Diamond USB > Eitr > Brooklyn DAC+ > Kenzie amp > HD800S phones. The Diamond probably is overkill on a mid-fi system that is less revealing but if you have a high end system it is worth considering.

I agree. The AQ Diamond made a significant improvement in sound quality when I added it to my system.

 

[ScareDe2]

I have the AQ Coffee and it has given me a solid 3 to 5% improvement. Cables are like antennas, you need shielded cables because they distort the audio signal. If you can not afford all the cables for now, try to move them (power cables, RCA and USB) with your hands, also try to move the Schiit devices DAC and AMP a bit by some inches to the left or right and see if the signal is a bit cleaner. I found by doing that the sound is better.

 

[pichu]

I have been enjoying my Eitr for a few weeks now but based on info from Puma Cat I decided to try upgrading cables. First the USB, then the S/PDIF then finally a high grade LPS. USB cables do make a difference and it can be significant. I have been using an AudioQuest Diamond for the past two days and it was well worth the cost! The Diamond made a huge difference in size of soundstage. Also imaging was improved with more air around voices and instruments. My chain is PC > Diamond USB > Eitr > Brooklyn DAC+ > Kenzie amp > HD800S phones. The Diamond probably is overkill on a mid-fi system that is less revealing but if you have a high end system it is worth considering.

Do you ever run headphones straight through the Brooklyn rather than the Kenzie? Maybe if you dont feel like using the tube amp?

 

[exdmd]

Do you ever run headphones straight through the Brooklyn rather than the Kenzie? Maybe if you dont feel like using the tube amp?

The SS head amp built into the Brooklyn DAC+ is about as good as a Magni 3 but not as good as a Vali 2. After experiencing a Kenzie it is hard to go back to anything less. I always listen through the Kenzie.

 

[pichu]

I have an extra iFi iPower 12v power supply. Im not familiar how voltages work. Would i be able to throw it in on the Shiit Eitr or am i going to have problems?

 

[bunkbail]

I have an extra iFi iPower 12v power supply. Im not familiar how voltages work. Would i be able to throw it in on the Shiit Eitr or am i going to have problems?

You can't. Eitr needs AC power supply, the iPower has DC output.

 

[pichu]

You can't. Eitr needs AC power supply, the iPower has DC output.

appreciate it boss! Would you be able to explain like im 5 what makes a power supply compatible/not-compatible with another device?

so i know we have Voltages such as 5v/9v/12v/15v.

Then we have the two currents. DC and AC

what determines the compatibility? could you use a 12v power supply with a 9v DAC?

Our DC and AC the only variables stopping compatibility?

 

[Ableza]

Use the power supplies that comes with a piece of gear is usually the best answer.

 

[Themordent]

appreciate it boss! Would you be able to explain like im 5 what makes a power supply compatible/not-compatible with another device?

so i know we have Voltages such as 5v/9v/12v/15v.

Then we have the two currents. DC and AC

what determines the compatibility? could you use a 12v power supply with a 9v DAC?

Our DC and AC the only variables stopping compatibility?

AC is what's in your walls. Most devices typically run on DC power and require an AC-to-DC wall wart to do the conversion (your iFi iPower is such a device).
However, the Eitr runs on AC 6V/1.5A and thus requires an AC-to-AC wall wart. Why not just use the one Schiit provides as suggested above?

 

[pichu]

AC is what's in your walls. Most devices typically run on DC power and require an AC-to-DC wall wart to do the conversion (your iFi iPower is such a device).
However, the Eitr runs on AC 6V/1.5A and thus requires an AC-to-AC wall wart. Why not just use the one Schiit provides as suggested above?

Yeah I'm going to. It was just laying around so I figured I'd try to use it. In regards to the STAX SRM-252s. It requires 12 VDC / 4a. The iFI power I have is 12VDC / 1.8a. Does this mean it won't work ?

 

[Themordent]

Yeah I'm going to. It was just laying around so I figured I'd try to use it. In regards to the STAX SRM-252s. It requires 12 VDC / 4a. The iFI power I have is 12VDC / 1.8a. Does this mean it won't work ?

Unfortunately that is correct. As a rough primer: Use a power supply that delivers the requisite voltage (otherwise unintended behavior/damage is possible) and at least as much current as the device draws (more is fine, less is... likely not fine). The iFi puts out the proper voltage but does not source enough current to run that amp.

Looks like you're stuck in stock wall-wart town. Welcome, by the way (it's nice here).

 

[winders]

....

 

[pichu]

Yeah I'm going to. It was just laying around so I figured I'd try to use it. In regards to the STAX SRM-252s. It requires 12 VDC / 4a. The iFI power I have is 12VDC / 1.8a. Does this mean it won't work ?

Unfortunately that is correct. As a rough primer: Use a power supply that delivers the requisite voltage (otherwise unintended behavior/damage is possible) and at least as much current as the device draws (more is fine, less is... likely not fine). The iFi puts out the proper voltage but does not source enough current to run that amp.

Looks like you're stuck in stock wall-wart town. Welcome, by the way (it's nice here).

so i can just use the polarity convertor that came with the iFi Power? Its a japanese version of the STAX amp, so i was told i would need to change some things up. Now im not sure what i need because someone advised me that the iFi power would work :/

 

[Themordent]

so i can just use the polarity convertor that came with the iFi Power? Its a japanese version of the STAX amp, so i was told i would need to change some things up. Now im not sure what i need because someone advised me that the iFi power would work :/

Apologies. I went and checked the STAX website because something seemed fishy about those specs, and I must correct the above.
Here's the new rub: The SRM-252S is rated at 12V/4W, NOT 4A! P = IV so 4W = ~0.33A * 12V (important not to get this stuff mixed up). The iFi should do just fine.