[FallenAngel]

One post helps and even better, use the dedicated Beta22 build thread for this.

1) Balanced = 4 boards
2) I can send you my modified FPE files if you want, but remember, you'll still need to make sure you get the holes cut for the connectors YOU intend to use (unless you want to duplicate mine

)
3) Output uses Neutrik 1/4" / 3-pin XLR combo jacks, have fun wiring, no adapter needed.
4) Not too many balanced diy DACs (or DIY DACs in general), you can either buy commercial, look on ebay for kits or wait for next buffalo batch. If you want pre-built, I'll be selling my Buffalo24 DAC soon.

 

[rds]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoYouRight /img/forum/go_quote.gif I want this to be upgrade proof.

Not possible

 

[DoYouRight]

for me it is for atleast a few years RDS as most consider this the best solidstate

and overkill for my current cans.

Edit: Thanks FallenAngel

 

[El_Doug]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoYouRight /img/forum/go_quote.gif I have started collecting parts for my B22 I would like it to have BALANCED and SINGLEENDED. How many boards do I need. So far I have 3. -Evan

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoYouRight /img/forum/go_quote.gif If I follow FallenAngels/KRMATHIS's do I just need a adapter for the SINGLEENDED cable like the K1K to 1/4?

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoYouRight /img/forum/go_quote.gif I want this to be upgrade proof. So in case I get K1Ks, Balanced Phones, or 1/4 SE will all work without mods. Thanks!

I woulda sworn I answered these questions for you in the krmathis build thread...

 

[smeggy]

So I just had another beta board die.

It doesn't register zip, the mosfets seem fine, the input voltage is fine, the LEDs light fine but nothing is happening on the board.. which was working until today.

I was doing some minor pot readjustments, tester leads on R9 to get 4.5V and I heard a tiny little pop while adjusting VR1. Don't know what or from where on the board but now it is dead.

I really hate this damn thing.

 

[nattonrice]

Quote:

Originally Posted by smeggy /img/forum/go_quote.gif So I just had another beta board die. It doesn't register zip, the mosfets seem fine, the input voltage is fine, the LEDs light fine but nothing is happening on the board.. which was working until today. I was doing some minor pot readjustments, tester leads on R9 to get 4.5V and I heard a tiny little pop while adjusting VR1. Don't know what or from where on the board but now it is dead. I really hate this damn thing.

Ti may be able to guess who I am from this comment.... ^^

But I had a tiny (~0.2mm across, couldn't see it when I initially inspected the board before starting the soldering) circular hole (like a popped bubble) in the solder mask under the left of R9. When I used my micro grabbers to get ready to adjust vr1 it shorted to the ground plane and pop...

I'd check the voltage across D11 cause I blew Q25 because of this.

Now there are other problems but those I'm still working on! heheh 1 outta 4 boards ain't bad

 

[krmathis]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoYouRight /img/forum/go_quote.gif If I follow FallenAngels/KRMATHIS's do I just need a adapter for the SINGLEENDED cable like the K1K to 1/4?

No adapter needed at all.
My β22 have 1x 4-pin XLR, 2x 3-pin XLR and 2x 1/4' TRS. As shown here.

 

[smeggy]

Thank you, thank you!

I replaced them both and it's working again. I really have to file those points down. Did not realize they poked through the pcb so easy.


Quote:

Originally Posted by nattonrice /img/forum/go_quote.gif Ti may be able to guess who I am from this comment.... ^^ But I had a tiny (~0.2mm across, couldn't see it when I initially inspected the board before starting the soldering) circular hole (like a popped bubble) in the solder mask under the left of R9. When I used my micro grabbers to get ready to adjust vr1 it shorted to the ground plane and pop... I'd check the voltage across D11 cause I blew Q25 because of this. Now there are other problems but those I'm still working on! heheh 1 outta 4 boards ain't bad

 

[smeggy]

Ok, partial success. I can get the boards reading perfect. 4.5V, 65mV, 0 DC offset. When I plug the source in and attach the phones, one side is playing fine, the other is just hissing. Measuring mV at the plug I get a couple of mV on the working side and about 1200 on the hissing side. If I unplug everything it's back to normal.

Any clues?

 

[digger945]

I poked the tips of the probes through the solder mask about three times on the EHHA alone. After so many sparks I finally put those clip on leads on the ends to keep myself from damaging something.

 

[amb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by smeggy /img/forum/go_quote.gif Ok, partial success. I can get the boards reading perfect. 4.5V, 65mV, 0 DC offset. When I plug the source in and attach the phones, one side is playing fine, the other is just hissing. Measuring mV at the plug I get a couple of mV on the working side and about 1200 on the hissing side. If I unplug everything it's back to normal. Any clues?

Try reversing the left and right cable hookups from your source. Does the problem stay on the same side or does it switch sides too? If the latter than the source or cable is the problem. If it stays on the same side, then inspect your wiring very carefully to make sure it's all correct.

Is the hiss affected by the volume control? Does it hiss when the volume is turned full-off?

 

[zare]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif I was thinking of grabbing two of exactly those transformers for when I re-case my Buffalo, and a third one for my MMM. Could you possibly tell me the physical size of those, and how much they cost you? Also, what configuration did you get for the primaries? And the rated supply frequency? Cheers!

They are 30VA($40CAD). Encapsulation and shielding adds $ 20. Shipping was ok for me as they are local. As for the size, they are quite big, 11.5cm by 11cm, but I'll check that for you. I have dual primaries. The frequency does not matter in my case as it is eventually rectified.

 

[Beefy]

Thanks zare. Confirmation on size would be brilliant

It is my understanding that frequency is important for ensuring that transformer headroom is acceptable, and that you don't over/under volt. In particular, you can have problems with 60Hz transformers if you use them at 50Hz. I'll check with Richard when I go to order.

 

[zare]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks zare. Confirmation on size would be brilliant It is my understanding that frequency is important for ensuring that transformer headroom is acceptable, and that you don't over/under volt. In particular, you can have problems with 60Hz transformers if you use them at 50Hz. I'll check with Richard when I go to order.

That is true, but by also depends if you are using 50Hz equipment on 60Hz line or the other way. 60Hz transformer on 50Hz line will make 17-20% V increase. In some cases that can make transformer cores saturated in the no load scenario. Well, I'll check the papers that came with the transformers and get that clarified.

 

[DoYouRight]

So wait the Dual XLR center pin is just a 1/4?