[linuxworks]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baltozar /img/forum/go_quote.gif But it seems to me that people use their amps without crossfeed? Maybe I'm wrong.

I'm hooked, fwiw. I tried one of tangent's easy to use kits and after I switched it ena/dis for a while, I liked having the option.

I also discovered I would NOT lock it on or off (perm hardwire). some material benefits from it and some does not, so it really does need to be ena/dis selectable. I even like having it be remotely selectable.

if you use a high-z version it can sit right between the source and the phones amp. but it does have insertion loss (dB wise) so you do need more gain in your amp than otherwise needed.

but I would not build another amp without a xfeed board or option. I like it (at least having the option to switch it in).

 

[randomasdf]

I replaced the chips in my headphone section, and silly me, I accidentally put them in the wrong way. This resulted in a rather undesirable loud popping noise, followed with small amounts of smoke in the headphone section. It seems to work fine now, but can someone tell me what that was from, and if it damaged my zero?
-edit-
seems like one of the blue capactiator caps blew, should this be of major concern?

 

[ooeric]

snap crackly pop.. smells like nice burnt toast dont it? lol

 

[StratCat]

Re: Multicomp ElectricalMechanical|MC21025|Switch Knob | Newark Canada

Just a quickie update:

I got mine from Newark USA, and it's a pretty good fit aesthetically and physically. It fits the Zero's front panel knob recess indentation diameter just about perfectly. Depth offeset is pretty close, tho could use maybe 1/16th" (~1-2mm) more depth to fit deeper into the front panel recess in a perfect world. But that's really a very minor quibble most ppl wouldn't even notice. It fits and looks pretty darn close to OEM, IMHO. Aesthetically, it's a perfect match.

There's a recessed set screw hole that may be visible dependant on the knob's rotation position, and the set screw needs to be really snugged down for a tight fit, since the Vpot's shaft is scored for a press-fit knob, not a slide on knob with a set screw like this one, and the knob can move few degrees perpendicular to the front panel unless fully tightened.

But I am really being very highly critical and detailed here (since I didn't post pics). It looks pretty much OEM spec'd and OEM quality, TBH. I'm happy with it.

I'll try to get some pics up soon.

 

[StratCat]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DuClare /img/forum/go_quote.gif Ordering from the shop in Canada would've been rather costly, as they charge an additional handling fee for small orders, and shipping a knob overseas would be overkill anyway. Google fails, and it took quite a while to find a good shop nearby. Finally I found something decent though — a shop called ELFA. http://akari.serveftp.org/elfa1.jpg (diameter 25mm, height 16mm) http://akari.serveftp.org/elfa2.jpg (22mm, 14mm) What do you think? The plain appearance of #2 seems to match the front panel, but on the other hand, perhaps the other knob would spice it up a little (the volume knob is THE thing you finger after all!) without being unreasonably odd.

I'll let you decide aesthtics, but I can say the original knob (28mm dia.) and the front panel's recessed indentation fits a 28mm diameter knob perfectly. Also, the original knob is 16mm deep, and that seems to be the perfect depth as well, since my 14mm replacement knob leaves a very slight gap; It fits flush with the front panel, but doesn't countersink fully into the front panel's recess, which would be ideal.

Also, I swear that second knob you linked looks exactly like the one I ordered, and is also the same depth (14mm).

Check It Out

You may want to see if that same knob is available in a 28mm diameter as well as the 22mm (although a large purposeful gap between the front panel recess diameter and knob diameter might look good, I suppose). Most knob models come in a wide variety of diameters, and sometimes several depths, too, as well as several color choices.

Just some random thoughts...

 

[No Smoking]

Recently I havent been keeping up to date with this thread so I was just wondering if the Lawrence "head-fi" deal was still available.

 

[StratCat]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baltozar /img/forum/go_quote.gif Today I bought two pieces of NE5532 for cheap and installed them in headamp. I still need to resolder a cap near DAC. I'm new in headphone's world and Hi-Fi. I used HD650. Is it normal that I have a feeling that most of instruments and a singer are inside my head? Maybe it is little soundstage? Will it be much better after burn-in or buying better amp?

Well, that inside-your-head stuff is one of the componenets of soundstage. O.K., I guess more accurately, some may refer to it as "headstage", when it extends outside one's head.

It's a function of both your cans AND your electronics, though more can dependant, IMHO. I'm not familiar with your HD650's, but some cans like my K701's have a large soundstage that seems to extend outside the phones and outside my head. I did not feel that outside-and-around-my-head feeling with some other phones, say my HD280Pro's, for instance. I don't recall that either with my HD595's, but my memory may not be perfectly accurate as I no longer own the HD595's.

As for me, I had an amp (Total_Bithead) with acrossfeed option, and didn't particuliarly care for it. Like so much here, I'm sure it's a YMMV thing, and the only way to find out is to try it.

FWIW, my LT1364's seemed to give a bit larger soundstage than the NE5532's once they were burned in. My LD 1+ amp gives a wider soundstage yet, than my LT1364 Zero. So electronics does matter too, tho I believe the soundstage inherent in a specific model of phones is more determinant of soundstage, given reasonable quality electronics; But yes, electronics do matter, too.

I suggest giving the LT1364's a try when you get a chance. They have a slightly larger soundstage than the NE5532's (to my ear). They are a bit brighter with a more extended freq response than the NE5332's, too, which may work well to perk up the Senns. The LT1364's also have a deeper bass, but very controlled and articulate.

Give them some time to burn in.

 

[StratCat]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tubes /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hello all, just how good is the headphone section on the zero. I'm putting together a budget system for my brother so I gave him an old NAD receiver to use with his Goldring 150's and a DVD player, the NAD is horrible, thick as mud. I was thinking of getting him a Little Dot 1+ amp, would this be better than using the zero as both a dac and head amp? Thanks. Phill

I have both an LD 1+ and a Zero. The LD 1+ amp is superior to the Zero's HPA, IMO. BUT...don't underestimate the positive impact a decent DAC can have on SQ vs driving an amp off an analog source.

I'd prefer the Zero's DAC and it's LT1364 amp, to my LD 1+ coming off an analog soundcard, for instance. The Zero's DAC is pretty decent, again IMO, and the headphone's sensitvity and ease of drive will also come into play. Easily drivable cans will sound reasonably decent for a tight budget amp with easy to drive cans. I was very happy (for the money) with the Zero's HPA with my AT's, Grados, and Denons. It was when I got the K701's that I really felt the need for more amp (but was getting there none-the-less, even w/o the K701's).

I guess I'm trying to say there's more than one variable here, with the DAC being an important consideration besides soley the amp capabilities.

 

[DuClare]

Quote:

Originally Posted by StratCat /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'll let you decide aesthtics, but I can say the original knob (28mm dia.) and the front panel's recessed indentation fits a 28mm diameter knob perfectly. Also, the original knob is 16mm deep, and that seems to be the perfect depth as well, since my 14mm replacement knob leaves a very slight gap; It fits flush with the front panel, but doesn't countersink fully into the front panel's recess, which would be ideal. Also, I swear that second knob you linked looks exactly like the one I ordered, and is also the same depth (14mm). Check It Out You may want to see if that same knob is available in a 28mm diameter as well as the 22mm (although a large purposeful gap between the front panel recess diameter and knob diameter might look good, I suppose). Most knob models come in a wide variety of diameters, and sometimes several depths, too, as well as several color choices. Just some random thoughts...

In fact, I too would prefer 26—28mm, but the two I mentioned are the only adequate looking aluminium knobs they offer at ELFA (and they come in one size only). I played around with a caliper and yes, 22mm is probably going to look too small. It's a shame that kind of stores still don't know the web; not in Finland anyway. Glancing through a phonebook or wandering around a city like in the old days isn't my thing. :|

 

[Currawong]

Quote:

Originally Posted by No Smoking /img/forum/go_quote.gif Recently I havent been keeping up to date with this thread so I was just wondering if the Lawrence "head-fi" deal was still available.

Last I looked he was still selling them on eBay. Check the link in my sig for all the info.

Quote:

Originally Posted by StratCat /img/forum/go_quote.gif I have both an LD 1+ and a Zero. The LD 1+ amp is superior to the Zero's HPA, IMO. BUT...don't underestimate the positive impact a decent DAC can have on SQ vs driving an amp off an analog source. I'd prefer the Zero's DAC and it's LT1364 amp, to my LD 1+ coming off an analog soundcard, for instance. The Zero's DAC is pretty decent, again IMO, and the headphone's sensitvity and ease of drive will also come into play. Easily drivable cans will sound reasonably decent for a tight budget amp with easy to drive cans. I was very happy (for the money) with the Zero's HPA with my AT's, Grados, and Denons. It was when I got the K701's that I really felt the need for more amp (but was getting there none-the-less, even w/o the K701's). I guess I'm trying to say there's more than one variable here, with the DAC being an important consideration besides soley the amp capabilities.

X2 this. Alone, the Zero does ok driving headphones. Alone the amps I've used do well too when connected directly to my computer. However, the combination of a good DAC and good amp are needed together to get the best soundstage and separation, which neither by itself will provide. Even my latest piece of kit, a Lavry DAC is the same despite it having a decent HP amp built in.

 

[DuClare]

Quote:

Originally Posted by No Smoking /img/forum/go_quote.gif Recently I havent been keeping up to date with this thread so I was just wondering if the Lawrence "head-fi" deal was still available.

Just send him an email. I got my Zero from him about a week ago.

 

[bundee1]

only order through ebay with lawrence. that way if anything goes wrong you can file a dispute with ebay or paypal and have a public record of it.

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bundee1 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Can anyone give me basic temperatures to use when soldering and desoldering. I tried soldering and desoldering yesterday and nothing would come loose or stick. BTW Radio Shack desoldering braid sucks. It kept removing the tinning on my iron instead of the solder on the joints.

Hello,
Cruising thru here and saw your post. I have a Weller WD1001 65W Pencil Station. I use 700 degrees. You can work fast with it. Don't dwell long on a point. Just paint it with heat. Will do very delicate work very well. Invest in some nice tips and take car of them. Hope that helps...

Les

 

[sennsay]

Originally Posted by bundee1
Can anyone give me basic temperatures to use when soldering and desoldering. I tried soldering and desoldering yesterday and nothing would come loose or stick.

BTW Radio Shack desoldering braid sucks. It kept removing the tinning on my iron instead of the solder on the joints.


Hi bundee1, I have just completed four projects, (Frankie, plus two amps and a power supply) with a fairly standard 25W iron and there have been no problems at all, plenty of heat. Don't know the temperature, but I've used an iron like this for many years. It costs about $10-$15NZD to buy.
Technique after thousands of joins may count for something.

Good desoldering braid is invaluable! The cheap stuff sure is crap, the good braid having a thin diameter, say 1.5mm, works best for most joins IMO from experience. Particularly with jobs like turning the Zero into Frankie.
S-Man

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sennsay /img/forum/go_quote.gif Originally Posted by bundee1 Can anyone give me basic temperatures to use when soldering and desoldering. I tried soldering and desoldering yesterday and nothing would come loose or stick. BTW Radio Shack desoldering braid sucks. It kept removing the tinning on my iron instead of the solder on the joints. Hi bundee1, I have just completed four projects, (Frankie, plus two amps and a power supply) with a fairly standard 25W iron and there have been no problems at all, plenty of heat. Don't know the temperature, but I've used an iron like this for many years. It costs about $10-$15NZD to buy. Technique after thousands of joins may count for something. Good desoldering braid is invaluable! The cheap stuff sure is crap, the good braid having a thin diameter, say 1.5mm, works best for most joins IMO from experience. Particularly with jobs like turning the Zero into Frankie. S-Man

He has a soldering station that he needs to set the temp on. You can go from 680-750 with no issues. Like I posted above, my Weller 1001 is a 65w Pencil station made to do pretty fine work. I set it at 700 degrees for board work like you are doing here.