[ccschua]

What it says there

"Remove 2 adjustable resistor,add 2 nos of 4.32k resistor as per diagram. Increase the capacitor to 33P, increase 4 resistor value at the back from 100 ohm to 220 ohm"

this is the new Sun V2

 

[Pricklely Peete]

What it says there

"Remove 2 adjustable resistor,add 2 6.8k resistor as per diagram. Increase the capacitor to 33P, increase 4 resistor at the back from 100 ohm to 220 ohm"

this is the new Sun V2

Thanks CC,

I'll do just that when it comes time for another parts order from Welborne Labs.....

Do you have a SUN V2 for SQ comparison to V1 by any chance ?

Keep up the good work !!!!

Peete.

 

[Currawong]

Does anyone want to buy my Sun V1 then?

 

[ccschua]

If u notice on the ZERO PCB, they are 2 blue pot at the lower right. I tried adjusting the blue pot to give +/- 18V DC to my OPA Earth, but I cant tell the difference in SQ.

But if u face power drain issue, adjusting the V+/- helps or not ? [dunno why only 1 nichicon is installed on this mod]

 

[ccschua]

Hi PP,

The resistor value should be 4.32 k and not 6.8k. Really sorry about that and appreciate u can change it to avoid confusion. What u need to bring back Sun to Sun V2 is

1, 2 nos of 4K3 Resistor [high accuracy, 0.1],
2,2 nos of 33P cap,
3, 4 nos of SMD 220 ohm resistor,

[considering the accuracy, might as well buy from or get it free from audio-gd to post it]

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Thanks for the update CC I appreciate it !!!

I too was wondering about the single cap .......One note about the mod I did, the 2 analog regs that were getting very hot before adding the PS1 kit are now barely even warm...so the kit took 75% of the load (best guess) off that section of the Zero.

The difference in temp is dramatic. I wonder if upping the voltage via the adjustable trimmers would yield a better result with the H/Amp load out of the picture ?

I can do that on Sunday to test it out if you want. My only concern is the voltage rating of the 4 - stock 47uf 10V caps (Elna Silmics) Would it be prudent to swap those out for 25V or 35V rated Silmic II's ? I have 4 left (47uf 35V) on hand for the job.

Peete.

 

[ccschua]

Hi PP,

U are right about it. Printed on PCB is 25V330uF but the cap used is 16V330uF. Looking at it, on the headphone amp all of them uses 16V. So it is prudent to remain the voltage at 15V.

Regarding power the headphone amp, did u connect using the 3 pin (V+ Gnd V- ) or direct to the OPA Sun?

Furthermore if u are using Burson HDAM, any voltage beyond 15V is not recommended.

 

[ccschua]

Hi PP, AP, S-Man

Sorry to bombard you with more ZERO mods. If u are loaded with too much mod, let me know.

Pls see another mod on this and what u think of its merits. {Dont you think it is fun looking at this}

1. Diode Bypass (reduce noise)
2. Stability and Noise killing mod for digital section (PS bypass replaced with Silver Mica)
3. Ground loop breaker mod (better caps)
4. More capacitance for the main analog stage, from 4400uF to 6600uF
5. More capacitance for the digital stage with Silmic II parallel, from 2000uF to 2330uF and bypass.
6. Cap replacement on analog output stage
7. Film cap replacement with german Wimas near the clock, DAC and supply lines

 

[sennsay]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccschua /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hi PP, AP, S-Man Sorry to bombard you with more ZERO mods. If u are loaded with too much mod, let me know. Pls see another mod on this and what u think of its merits. {Dont you think it is fun looking at this} 1. Diode Bypass (reduce noise) 2. Stability and Noise killing mod for digital section (PS bypass replaced with Silver Mica) 3. Ground loop breaker mod (better caps) 4. More capacitance for the main analog stage, from 4400uF to 6600uF 5. More capacitance for the digital stage with Silmic II parallel, from 2000uF to 2330uF and bypass. 6. Cap replacement on analog output stage 7. Film cap replacement with german Wimas near the clock, DAC and supply lines

Crikey cc, you wanna go all out, huh?

My eyes are a bit tired so I may not give MHO on all of these in order. Quality caps around the DAC are ALWAYS beneficial. My old POOGE modded CDP a few(!) years back had stacked film caps for that purpose. My Yam CDP has them already. Wima MKPs a good idea for starters, IMO.
Why is there only one Nichicon? I would hazzard a guess that you need two of them for both channels. Change 'em for Cerafines, I reckon. Or at least Silmics.
Yes, you could change all those yellow MKT caps for MKPs - Wimas if you want.
Oh, just thought, FrankenZero will cover most if not all of those changes anyway, cc.
Bypassing diodes is often done to keep 'em quiet, I understand. Using Shottkey diodes is a good upgrade if they're not already in there.
In my experience going overboard on capacitance is not always a good thing. Yes, there could often be more, but the quality counts for more than value. For instance, a 1000uF Black Gate is more efficient and far better sounding than a 2200/3300uF cap of lesser quality. It's been proven a number of times by various people. My Plinius pre-amp has many smaller value caps in parallel in preference to less caps of much larger value. They simply respond faster to requirements, in general. Some power amp manufacturers use the same approach. In saying all of that, yes, you could upgrade the cap sizes somewhat. I'm wary of the blanket 'bigger is better' approach, it ain't necessarily so.
Everything else you have suggested looks fine to me, mate.

Hope I haven't waffled on. Cheers, S-Man

BTW, it does look strange seeing so much space in your Zero where an HDAM is in mine!

The 627s are tiny in comparison. I had to laugh.

They're great aren't they!

 

[Doorknob]

Today as I was comparing my Cowon A2 to my Zero I noticed one very different factor.

Bass on the Zero is LEAN. Very small amount of bass is actually heard and felt. Also the bass detail is just not there at all compared to my portable source.

My Zero is modded with lt1364 in the headphone amp and earth in the DAC with two 22p caps removed. Headphone is ATH A-900.

Might it have to do anything with the earth opamp killing most of the bass or is this how neutral sound sounds like?

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Hi CC,

Here's are pics of the latest version of my FrankenZero .....the caps on the H/Amp board have been swapped to 1500uf 25V Nichicon PW's + pio bypass with 47uf 10V pair being swapped out for a pair of same value 35V Silmic II's and then bypassed with 2 more pios.


The power tap in point for the PS1 kit's +15 0 - 15V outputs are the three pads underneath the H/Amp where the black 3 wire connector from the main pcb is routed to the H/amp is located. Unhooked the black power connection from the H/amp pcb soldering the output wires of the Reg supply to those 3 spots. When I get my chassis, the connectors will be taken out and the wires soldered in properly. The cheap 2 x 4 wiring harness will be upgraded to 4 runs of (2 wire plus double shielded Gotham Silver plated OFC)




What I was referring to in my previous post was the 4 caps just above the analog board regs...on my zero they are 47uf 10V which I find rather odd since that section is being run at 15V.....

The Wima caps are a great fit IMO. The silver mica dipped caps are always preferred over their ceramic counterparts IMO. I'm not sure how the diode bypass works....could you explain that one further please.


That's all I can think of for now when looking at the pics you've posted.

Here is 2 shots of my current Rev FrankenZero (Earth modules in all positions).

In this shot you can see where the -15 0 + 15V DC lines are soldered in and all the bypass PIO caps.

Up and running...

Peete.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doorknob /img/forum/go_quote.gif Today as I was comparing my Cowon A2 to my Zero I noticed one very different factor. Bass on the Zero is LEAN. Very small amount of bass is actually heard and felt. Also the bass detail is just not there at all compared to my portable source. My Zero is modded with lt1364 in the headphone amp and earth in the DAC with two 22p caps removed. Headphone is ATH A-900. Might it have to do anything with the earth opamp killing most of the bass or is this how neutral sound sounds like?

How many hours do you have on both the Zero and HDAM module ?

Mine has loads of bass.

Peete.

 

[Doorknob]

About two good weeks.

Used a bit of pink noise here and there also.

I had 220-55hz frequencies raised in the foobar by about 5-7 levels. The highest being the 220hz. Nothing else in the EQ is touched.

 

[LeBuLLeT]

Weird that you have no bass from the Zero, with my HD650s I have tons of bass. On my speakers the bass became a looooooooot better that I thought I bought new speakers. Even my friend was impressed that he was wondering what did I do to my speakers.

 

[sennsay]

Yeah, ditto on the above, doorknob, plenty of great and clean, tight bass. transparent too with KHA. My Zero's had well over 200 hours now and sounds just great with FrankenZero to come.

Actually LeBuLLeT, that's really cool about your speakers! Don't ya just love it when that happens, a friend pops by and goes "woah, dude, what have you done?" Gotta be happy with that!