[Currawong]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadMan007 /img/forum/go_quote.gif You should email them and see if their Toslink cables are glass fiber. Whlie it's implied that's all they make it's not clearly stated for the cables and you can never be sure or too careful.

If you read their site, they are plastic of a kind that is supposedly better than glass. Since they are cheap, if they ship outside the USA, I'll order a mini->Toslink and compare it to the Optocoupler. At least I wont have to worry about burn-in to confirm. I don't expect any difference though.

Quote:

I'll get some of the LT's on the way. Are they generally regarded as the best HA opamps? I prefer neutral with little to no coloration, maybe a little bit of taking off any digital edge at most. The whole super-indepth opamp section of this thread starts where I trailed off reading.

They seem to be the most neutral. I'd place them on the analytical side of things, having just stuck mine in my LD MKV experimentally.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mz5 /img/forum/go_quote.gif hi all, i am new here i have some questions about the Zero. which of the cables are sound signal ? i found 8 of them connecting the pre-amp and the HP-amp and i would like to replace with better cables. has any of you been doing that ? any good ?

Personally, I wouldn't bother. The HP amp isn't good enough to be worth it. But if you want to experiment, the 3-pin connector is power. The other two connectors are the left and right channels. Replacing the 3 RCA sockets would be more effective probably. If you do replace the cables, let us know what the result is.

 

[mz5]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Currawong /img/forum/go_quote.gif Personally, I wouldn't bother. The HP amp isn't good enough to be worth it. But if you want to experiment, the 3-pin connector is power. The other two connectors are the left and right channels. Replacing the 3 RCA sockets would be more effective probably. If you do replace the cables, let us know what the result is.

hi Currawong

i have replaced the internal power supply for HP-amp with Precision Regulator found at Precision +/-15V regulator for pre-amp or headphone amp and i can feel the power

but for the signal part, i see 4 pins each on the other 2 connectors and not sure which is which. if all 4 pins are use then kimber hero would do the job.

Thanks

ps: most of the caps and diodes have been replace as well, recable would be my last mod for the Zero

 

[MadMan007]

That's not even a Zero any more, you need to call it a Zero.1

I must be missing out on how you're using that regulator board in the alst two pictures though.

Besides the LT1364 what other sample opamps should I try for different sound signatures? Either for the HA or DAC section...please specifiy which though.

 

[Currawong]

Holy crap, that is definitely a franken-zero. You should post about it in the Zero mod thread in DIY.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Currawong /img/forum/go_quote.gif Holy crap, that is definitely a franken-zero. You should post about it in the Zero mod thread in DIY.

He's out Franken'd my Franken

Slightly more insane level of modding than mine

......right on MZ5....what caps are under the wrap/tape around the dac chip ( 4 x 100uf 25V stock caps for ?).

Peete.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

MZ5 since you've gone to this far you need to upgrade the jacks (R/L analog outs and wire, Coax in and wire) Grab a decent mains cable too....those mods really help the overall refinement level.

Really nice job on the parts selection. What diodes are those ?

Peete.

EDIT : I'm so tired I'm typing my name twice.....

 

[mz5]

madman : for the PSU, i disconnect the stock power cable then solder my under the board and wire it to the back of the case, drill the case and install the connector. check my 1st photo on the top right conner you will see a yellow connector.

Peete : that 4 caps are SilmicII 220u. nothing under the tape. and i bypass all the caps with tantalum 0.1u. RCA and Coax will replace after i've got the part. right now i'm not using it. the diode are Ultra fast type and bypass with 0.1u wima

still wanna replace the signal cables. who know which is which. Thanks

may be i should go and start posting in DIY. sound like i'm off topic here.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Thanks for that info MZ5.........I would think just marking the pairs of four and making up your new wire bundles would be fairly easy...follow a similar color scheme of have one of your own just make note of how each 4 lead con is laid out...and copy it one 4 lead section at a time.

Parts are always either a click away or in the mail with me too.....

Interesting you went with Silmic II's...in the Frankie kit I went with 100uf 25V Silmic II's as well (smaller uf size, even at 100uf they are fairly big) bypassed with the K42Y-2 PIO's.

How does it sound to you so far ?

You should do a write up of the sound quality in the Zero mod thread MZ5...I'm sure lots of people would be interested in your thoughts on that. Me included.

Peete.

 

[mz5]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks for that info MZ5.........I would think just marking the pairs of four and making up your new wire bundles would be fairly easy...follow a similar color scheme of have one of your own just make note of how each 4 lead con is laid out...and copy it one 4 lead section at a time. Parts are always either a click away or in the mail with me too..... Interesting you went with Silmic II's...in the Frankie kit I went with 100uf 25V Silmic II's as well (smaller uf size, even at 100uf they are fairly big) bypassed with the K42Y-2 PIO's. How does it sound to you so far ? You should do a write up of the sound quality in the Zero mod thread MZ5...I'm sure lots of people would be interested in your thoughts on that. Me included. Peete.

Yah Peete, most of my caps are SilmicII except for the one i can not find with SilmicII. that russian PIO are hardly found here (in Thailand) and VitaminQ too expensive for this job.

for the sound ? ....... it's good and i like it.

i don't remember how stock Zero sounded any more so can not compare. the sound getting wider and wider. hi start shining ,low are real good and deep and attact

b4 that i replace 47u stock silmicII with VitaminQ 0.47u ,the bass was reduce so i have to bi-cap them 2.

This Sat we will have some meeting and i will bring my Zero to the meeting. we might have some battle for it. and i will report to all of you AZAP.

Thanks

 

[syg]

I just received my Zero and am getting some noise issues (everything's stock). There is a buzzing sound on both channels from 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock on the volume dial. I tried using an adapter that I bought in Japan that takes a 3-pronged grounded connection and turns it into a 2-pronged one to get rid of the ground, but the noise remains. What might be causing this, how do I diagnose it? Oddly the noise gets SOFTER if I crank the knob all the way to the right. It is loudest at 12 o'clock.

Edit: Unrelated question, coaxial doesn't work for 24bit/192KHz, yet optical does. I have no idea why, maybe something's wrong with my sound card?

 

[nor_spoon]

Impressive dedication and modding of the Zero! Wow.

 

[ScottieB]

Just got my OPA Moon and am about to pop it in the DAC section (I don't use the HeadAmp much) - will let you know my impressions after some burn-in.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by syg /img/forum/go_quote.gif I just received my Zero and am getting some noise issues (everything's stock). There is a buzzing sound on both channels from 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock on the volume dial. I tried using an adapter that I bought in Japan that takes a 3-pronged grounded connection and turns it into a 2-pronged one to get rid of the ground, but the noise remains. What might be causing this, how do I diagnose it? Oddly the noise gets SOFTER if I crank the knob all the way to the right. It is loudest at 12 o'clock.

Check the pot ground wire on the side of the pot casing...it may have come off during shipment....

Here's a pic showing it (the pot in the pic is the upgraded ALPS) attached to the ALps pot. The stock pot also needs this wire connected to it's casing.

You may have to reheat the solder on it to "reflow" the joint with your soldering iron (if you have one).

There are other possibilities, look at the underside of the pcb. Is there any leads not trimmed that may be in contact with the metal chassis ?




Hopefully this solves the issue. Make sure your opamps are fully seated and oriented in the correct direction.



Peete.

 

[syg]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif Check the pot ground wire on the side of the pot casing...it may have come off during shipment.... Here's a pic showing it (the pot in the pic is the upgraded ALPS) attached to the ALps pot. The stock pot also needs this wire connected to it's casing. You may have to reheat the solder on it to "reflow" the joint with your soldering iron (if you have one). There are other possibilities, look at the underside of the pcb. Is there any leads not trimmed that may be in contact with the metal chassis ? Hopefully this solves the issue. Make sure your opamps are fully seated and oriented in the correct direction. Peete.

Thanks for the reply. I am looking at the left side of the pot right now, and there is *no wire* at all, it doesn't look like something broke off during shipment. Guess I need to go get a wire and solder a ground myself?

Edit: If I just use a coax cable, the buzzing disappears, so it IS a grounding issue. I'm guessing the coax shield grounds the Zero as well. I was using optical before.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

double post