[kejar31]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottieB /img/forum/go_quote.gif Well poo... I'm bummed. I don't know if I just have bad luck or am just REALLY bad with my hands or what (maybe both) but well... I went to put the Sun unit in and noticed one of the wires on the lead (on the Sun end) was not connected. It then dawned on me how fragile the whole lead seemed to be. So I figured oh well I still have the earth, so using the sun as practice I set up a little stage for it to sit on and everything. Grabbed the Earth and went to connect it, being as gentile as possible - and one of the wires popped off the connector end this time. I didn't even touch it! So anyway, the space is VERY tight and the lead is just barely long enough to fit - it seems it will need some pull to be able to work - which means the soldering needs to be stronger. How did you guys get these things in there. And, more importantly, can I fix this, and how difficult is it? I've never soldered anything.

Wow that sucks! sorry to hear that!! I would email Kingwa and see if he can replace them.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

It can be fixed Scottie...although I'm surprised the wiring came off to begin with. Do you have a pic to post of the problem areas. That would help quite a bit I think.

Learning to solder on something that small is a bugger. The trick to it is to be precise and quick. A 3rd hand tool or small pcb vice would be a valuable tool for working on these modules. You'll need to practice a little on a scrap pcb first until you get the hang of it (being precise and quick). The tip of the iron must be very small , a standard tip will be to big I would imagine. 25 or 35 watt iron should be good enough...you don't want too much heat either.

Email Kingwa and tell him what has happened so he can address the assembly issue and QA the finished product a little closer before it ships.

He may even send you another module as a replacement, you never know.

Peete.

 

[kejar31]

ScottieB:
I tell you what, if you are unable to get it replaced I will ship you my extra after I decide on which on I am going to use permanently. I will only ask that you pay for shipping.

 

[ScottieB]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kejar31 /img/forum/go_quote.gif ScottieB: I tell you what, if you are unable to get it replaced I will ship you my extra after I decide on which on I am going to use permanently. I will only ask that you pay for shipping.

Wow, thanks. I'm gonna see what I can do to replace/fix it, though... posting pics in a few...

 

[ScottieB]

Some photos of the damage...

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Man that's mighty cool of you kejar31 !!! That's what I love about this place so much...all the Zero nuts are great people !!!!

Peete.

 

[kejar31]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottieB /img/forum/go_quote.gif Some photos of the damage...

They can both be fixed quite easily. If you cant get them replaced you might be able to find someone locally that can fix it as well. Either way if you cant get them replaced my offer stands.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

That will be dead easy fix Scottie. Here's what you do. Strip an 1/8 inch off the ends that need to be reattached. Twist and pre solder the bare wire ends (tinning the leads it called) once you have them tinned just place the iron tip on the area where the break occurred making sure just to heat up the solder around that area. It takes only a second or two, make sure you have the tinned lead ready to go into the solder once it melts a little. Once they merge remove the heat source hold the wire in place until it solidifies and your done. Do that for both breaks. Make sure you don't melt or touch anything other than what needs to heated. Think about your method and practice it first with scrap wire and a scrap pcb that has wire soldered in. break the wire on the scrap pcb by twisting it. Then strip it, tin the end and use the method mentioned to reattach...you'll get the hang of it darn quick. The whole process should only take about 3 seconds to complete (once you have the iron pre-heated and the leads stripped and tinned ). Prep and practice are 90 % of the job.

If you need further explanation feel free to ask any questions...

Peete.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

One thing I've noticed of late with my HDAM, it's very touchy about being seated perfectly. If your getting odd drop outs and distortions, pops crackles and such, the HDAM may not be seated properly in the socket. Mine has done this when it was moved back and forth from the house to the cottage. My extension lead is acting funny so I have to repair it. Most likely have cold solder joint(s) somewhere under the heat shrink...which end I don't know.....just thought I'd mention that.

A bit quirky at times when moved around only. Once seated properly and then left alone it's fine ...

Peete.

 

[ScottieB]

Excellent thanks for that. So I need to get an iron - figure I should have one - this whole process has started something I think... heh. Anyway, I'm gonna try Radio Shack right by work tomorrow - what should I get? I know they have a few different ones - I've seen them there, just never looked very closely.

 

[alxwang]

PP, This is the info you want:

Earth: As long as the input volt > +=12V. there should not be any obvious difference. And this requirement is matched to regular OP. If the volt <+-12 the sound will be soft.

Sun: Best volt will be +-15 to +-18 and the difference compare to Earth is the Sun output sound will be changing with volt change.

Sorry about my English.

 

[alxwang]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottieB /img/forum/go_quote.gif Excellent thanks for that. So I need to get an iron - figure I should have one - this whole process has started something I think... heh. Anyway, I'm gonna try Radio Shack right by work tomorrow - what should I get? I know they have a few different ones - I've seen them there, just never looked very closely.

I bought my first iron from Radio Shack(19$) and it dead in 2 month. I end up to buy a good one with station and temperature adjustment from a local electric shop which cost me 69$ I think. It works fine for me for 3 years already. My suggestion will be do not go cheap because it will last longer and compare your equipment it just cost a little. The reason I got temperature adjustment is I need do some xbox solder job.

You also need some other stuff too. Just ask the stuff in shop.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by alxwang /img/forum/go_quote.gif PP, This is the info you want: Earth: As long as the input volt > +=12V. there should not be any obvious difference. And this requirement is matched to regular OP. If the volt <+-12 the sound will be soft. Sun: Best volt will be +-15 to +-18 and the difference compare to Earth is the Sun output sound will be changing with volt change. Sorry about my English.

Thanks Alex, interesting ...tweak the voicing slightly with the adjustable pots near the 2 regs on the audio out section

I think but I'm not 100% sure the analog section is at 12V or 15V. I'll check with the MM in a minute or two.Lid is off the Zero since my extension lead went pppffffft. It's 15.2 V DC on the left reg, right pin, 13.2 far left pin. can't measure the other one at the moment but imagine it be exactly the same numbers. The H/Amp regs are all 15.2 V DC on the center pins.

Hope that sheds a little more light on things.

Your English is good Alex, way better than my Chinese

Peete.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottieB /img/forum/go_quote.gif Excellent thanks for that. So I need to get an iron - figure I should have one - this whole process has started something I think... heh. Anyway, I'm gonna try Radio Shack right by work tomorrow - what should I get? I know they have a few different ones - I've seen them there, just never looked very closely.

Alex is right about the cheap irons...with the amount of soldering I do I should have bought a decent weller station years ago but keep buying the cheap Rat Shack pencil irons...I'm on my 4th one in 2 years.....anyway if you don't plan of doing much soldering other than repairs every once in a while when you have to...a 35 watt pencil iron will do just fine. Get yourself some good 60/40 solder. The silver stuff is more trouble than it's worth when using a cheap iron. You also need a good set of wire strippers, I use a multi-tool, it can strip,crimp, and cut. Another good thing to have on hand is heat shrink variety pack (different sizes). What else...... Side cutters are always good to have.

Can't think of anything else other than a good vice/3rd hand tool. It's a very handy device to have. It holds your part in place while leaving your hands free to do the job properly. Has a built in magnifying glass too...which is essential for me since my eyes aren't what they used to be

Good luck and feel free to ask for help any time !!!

Take some pics and post them when you've completed the repair and before you power up so I can scrutinize the solder joints.

Peete.

 

[Summer Jazz]

Hi all,
Isn’t it better to get the Sun or Earth without the extension lead? Lesser resistance. The only thing is to fabricate a new cover to accommodate the height of the OPA.
I have not order the OPA yet.
Just my thought.