shotgunshane
Headphoneus Supremus
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2010
- Posts
- 6,062
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- 1,809
Depends on what you use them with. iPhone does not need an adapter for the mh1 but a nano 6g does.
If you're going to tell someone to get the MH1 instead of the MH1c at least have the courtesy to mention that they'll need an adapter.
wait what , so will i need an adapter to use the earphone on my sansa fuze .. ? i thought it was the same plug as everything else. I dont need pause play stop functionality i just want to listen to music lol
DEEEeeeeeeeeUUUMMMMM! Check this out!
Came off PERFECTLY! Thanks to ZMF for the tip.
I've received the ZMF-modded MH1, although it's little late. Love that build quality because it looks like a home-made IEM with lovely sound. Because the vents are closed, I have to agree that it's less boomy and overall sound became very bright. It reminds me of that horrifying XBA-30's piercing and peaky treble; but it's not like that. The upper treble is pleasant like Yamaha EPH-100. However, the MH1 lacks of L and R marking so I painted them with red and blue, making 'em look sexier. Clipper were put because the cable slightly heavy for my taste.
DEEEeeeeeeeeUUUMMMMM! Check this out!
Came off PERFECTLY! Thanks to ZMF for the tip.
You going to share that tip?
ZMF headphones hand-crafts wood headphones in Chicago, USA with special attention to exceptional sound and craftsmanship.
Stay updated on ZMFheadphones at their sponsor profile on Head-Fi.
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+1
Sure thing. Just been busy...
I used a pair of flat nose pliers that had a bit of teeth like these:
for grip to hold the housing and then a pair of end cutter type pliers like these:
I place the fine edge of the end cutter inside the groove that separates the housing and stress relief material as much as possible right in the groove. I then held the housing tightly in my left hand and pulled them apart using my right hand end cutters to pull. I turned it back and forth very gently as I pulled them apart to try and loosen things. It seemed like it was never going to come off, but I just kept doing it and it finally came off.
On another note. Just finished another recable joining the wire style for someone. Use the right angle neutrik, custom cord lock slider and wire colors per his preferene. All coper below the split. Grounds joined in the middle to reduce the cable size/thickness/weight and increase flexibility.
I'm not sure if I sealed the strain relief extra well or what, but I put tape on the vents and these sound the best I've heard so far stock... I'm not sure I want to give them to the buyer. hahaha
Sure thing. Just been busy...
I used a pair of flat nose pliers that had a bit of teeth like these:
for grip to hold the housing and then a pair of end cutter type pliers like these:
I place the fine edge of the end cutter inside the groove that separates the housing and stress relief material as much as possible right in the groove. I then held the housing tightly in my left hand and pulled them apart using my right hand end cutters to pull. I turned it back and forth very gently as I pulled them apart to try and loosen things. It seemed like it was never going to come off, but I just kept doing it and it finally came off.