Post pics of your builds....
May 6, 2010 at 1:21 AM Post #6,886 of 9,811
Thanks for the kind words gents!
Here is a shot of the underside. I’m clearly not good as some experienced perf-boarders here (Fitz, Seaside…) but I’m quite happy with the results. (The in/outputs are going through teflon cable from/to the connectors at the front side).
I was sitting back with a pencil and paper to make a raw sketch in less than an hour, but it takes almost 8 hours hard work to solder the thing together. Followed by an half hour testing… the job was done and the amp working.
 
 

 
 
 
… and the little perf-board amp in action.
L3000.gif

 

 
May 6, 2010 at 7:15 AM Post #6,890 of 9,811
Ferrari - Excellent work.
 
Do you think you could do a post or a thread about how you go about getting the work so clean?  Like how you go from the schematic to such a clean layout?
 
I really appreciate clean work like this, but I can never quite manage it so I give up and always design myself a PCB.
tongue.gif

 
May 6, 2010 at 12:16 PM Post #6,891 of 9,811


Quote:
Ferrari - Excellent work.
 
Do you think you could do a post or a thread about how you go about getting the work so clean?  Like how you go from the schematic to such a clean layout?
 
I really appreciate clean work like this, but I can never quite manage it so I give up and always design myself a PCB.
tongue.gif

 
I'm pretty sure the way he does it is sketch up on paper roughly where the components go and basically draw up all connections.  Saves putting it together to find it doesn't work/look too good and redo it.  Just keep optimising it on paper, then when you're happy build it.  I actually use that method and it works flawlessly.
 
 
May 6, 2010 at 3:41 PM Post #6,893 of 9,811
What Pageygeeza said is indeed roughly what I have done. Actually there is no secret in doing perf-board.
I will try to write down what (how) I have done (it).
 
Layout:
The power supply is quite simple, but the amp part is more complicated and requires some more attention. With a pencil, I started to sketch one channel of the amp up on paper, all components and the associated connections while keep the signal path as short-and-logic as possible.
Important here is understanding the components and circuits properly and how they are connected.
Then copy this optimized channel of the amp to the other 2 channels (3-channel amp in my case).
 
Stuffing parst:
Start with stuffing all the part on the perf-board, as you sketched but don’t solder them completely yet.
The resistors can be semi-fixed on the perf-board by bending the resistor leads. Other components like transistors, IC-sockets, trimpots… can be semi-fixed on the perf-board by soldering only 1 pin of the component (easier to change or replace). Double-check the (number of the) parts against the schematics.

Soldering:
Try to work structurally, first the power supply traces since you will need them, no matter how many channels the amp has. Then the amp part, try to complete 1 channel first. Check and re-check everything to be sure that all components are correctly mounted and soldered. When this is done, simply copy it to the other channels of the amp.
 
I’m not sure if this is a success formula for everyone, but it is in short how I did it.
 
 
May 6, 2010 at 5:34 PM Post #6,895 of 9,811
 
So Ferrari- you and Sijosae were separated at birth, right? That is beautiful board work! I don't think I could ever manage that with my fingers.
 
This is a weak follower, but I finished this amp a couple weeks ago, but am just now getting to some pictures. It's a derivation of the mapletree design, with somewhat different operating points and a very different power supply.


And another shot of it burning away:

 
May 6, 2010 at 8:31 PM Post #6,896 of 9,811
A question for Ferrari.
 
What are you using to make your traces on the underside of the board. Many of the connections seem too long and or too perfect to simply be device leads.
 
May 8, 2010 at 5:39 PM Post #6,898 of 9,811
I have some suggestions...
You have some imbalances in there.
For the L/R channels, R1 should be 15K to match R3.
R2 should be 50K or 10X your volume pot (if you are using one...).
For the ground channel, R1 and R2 should be the same value.
 
Hope this helps...
 
Quote:
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pageygeeza /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Though I would love to see the schematics for it so I could see how it could be better arranged, I have a few prototyping ideas that might be beneficial to your project.


I am interested

Left and right:

nfgpox.jpg



ground channel:

35k02mp.jpg



 
May 9, 2010 at 10:56 AM Post #6,899 of 9,811


Quote:
A question for Ferrari.
 
What are you using to make your traces on the underside of the board. Many of the connections seem too long and or too perfect to simply be device leads.


The short traces are made from resistors leads, while the long (power and ground) traces are 0.4mm or 1mm solid copper leads, depends on location.
 
 

 
 
May 9, 2010 at 12:06 PM Post #6,900 of 9,811
Here are some of my "works in progress" and builds...
 
The first one is a dual voltage power supply.
 

 
The next is a CMoy I design and built last year...it is being run from +/- 15 volt supply right now...
It usually runs on one or two 9 volt batteries. Op Amp is a OPA2132.
 

 
The next one here is a Bravo Hybrid amp...it has several mods on it and is waiting for upgraded electrolytic caps.
 

 
And lastly is a 1793 DAC that is going under the knife today to replace the badly designed virtual ground with a tle2426.
The kit was sourced from a Chinese DIY website
 

 

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