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Post pics of your builds....
Jun 9, 2009 at 10:08 PM Post #5,131 of 9,811
Just finishing up my CKK3...

ckk3-1.jpg
 
Jun 9, 2009 at 10:41 PM Post #5,132 of 9,811
Sexy looking front panel, Rayko. FPE? Got some internals pics to share?
smily_headphones1.gif


The CK²-III is such a great amp, especially for its price.
 
Jun 10, 2009 at 12:06 AM Post #5,133 of 9,811
I did the front panel with an electric drill and a step bit.

The labels were done with a laser printer and bake on water slide decals. With shipping, tt was about $20 for ten 8.5x11 sheets. They come in clear or white background.

Water Slide Decal Papers ::...

Never used this stuff before but the results were quite good for the price.

Here's another pic with lighting to make the decal as visible as possible. Its not 100% transparent but, for my desktop its just fine.

Be sure you're satisfied with the placement before heating it. Once its baked, it becomes quite tough and adheres tightly.

ckk3-2.jpg
 
Jun 10, 2009 at 12:58 AM Post #5,135 of 9,811
Rayko - although a little wasteful, do you think it would look better if you covered the entire front panel? Or is it really as subtle as it is in the first pic you posted?
 
Jun 10, 2009 at 1:29 AM Post #5,137 of 9,811
I considered using FPE for the front panel, looks like they do some very nice work but, $20 only gets you to the front door.

The unique thing about this product is that you bake it after applying. As an experiment, I applied a decal to the back of my faceplate, baked it, then let it cool. Scraping with the edge of a screw driver, using moderate preasure didn't make it budge. I was able to scrape it off using more force, but that was also enough to scar the aluminum.

The decal material is fragile once its loose from the paper. Spend a couple more dollars and get a bottle of their decal mounting fluid. It helps avoid tears when manipulating the decal.

The techique that finally worked for me was to make a rectangular decal large enough for both the small knobs on the faceplate. The decal was placed over the holes, smoothed into place, heated in the oven, finally the holes were opened with razor knife.
 
Jun 10, 2009 at 3:18 AM Post #5,138 of 9,811
Don't think it was asked yet, who makes that enclosure Rayko?
 
Jun 10, 2009 at 4:20 AM Post #5,140 of 9,811
Quote:

Originally Posted by oneplustwo /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Rayko - although a little wasteful, do you think it would look better if you covered the entire front panel? Or is it really as subtle as it is in the first pic you posted?


Great idea. That would make it disappear, provided it didn't tear or wrinkle.

You can send it through the printer more than once to use the unprinted portion. I just trimmed it square and reused the same stock. It did seem to take more time to separate from the backing though.
 
Jun 10, 2009 at 5:13 PM Post #5,145 of 9,811
Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxworks /img/forum/go_quote.gif
in fact, one way to hide the 'film' is to have it cover the whole front and then put a thin layer of clear acrylic or p-glass over it as well.


I use crystal(?) clear or satin krylon or similar over faces that I put water slide decals on... Pins them down & sort of equalizes/blends the finish across the surface.
But you may give up a bit of the original brushed aluminum look doing this...
 
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