Post pics of your builds....
Dec 18, 2008 at 3:02 PM Post #3,961 of 9,811
Quote:

Originally Posted by sandbasser /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Is the "green bat handle" is VERY COOL!!! Is it part of the std BOM or something you added - if you added it, would you care to share a PN etc.

Most excellent!



thanks. yes, pure BOM. I often deviate from the bom but in this case I went pretty much by the book
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on a very very tight board, you really want to try to get the right parts.

and when the 'right parts' are SO classy like this one is.... JUST GO BY THE BOM.

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you will LOVE that green/red switch. its the cutest thing (LOL). not cheap but you aren't buying lots of them so splurge a little
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...and if you time your spdif sources right, you can make the switch blink red and green just in time for st. nick!
 
Dec 18, 2008 at 10:19 PM Post #3,962 of 9,811
Colbalt - you're a real put down merchant arn't you, the "master" is brilliant but if you take the time to compare my board is smaller. by a good margin
 
Dec 18, 2008 at 11:03 PM Post #3,963 of 9,811
Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred_fred2004 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Colbalt - you're a real put down merchant arn't you, the "master" is brilliant but if you take the time to compare my board is smaller. by a good margin


It was not meant as a put down on your work - it is a very nice board. However, when you make small boards it will inspire comparisons to Sijosae's work as small through-hole work was something he seems to have done a lot of.
 
Dec 19, 2008 at 12:02 AM Post #3,964 of 9,811
My second YAHA using recycled/leftover parts, and intended to be a portable

yaha_portable_1.jpg


I still have to finish casing it in the tin cigarette box you see in the background, and the LED is still missing (the white wire that goes towards the batteries is for the LED, nothing to do with the batteries).

I don't have a clear idea yet how to fix the batteries so they don't bounce inside, space is really really tight and the box opens only from the top. Any suggestions?
 
Dec 19, 2008 at 6:18 AM Post #3,966 of 9,811
I find it's handy to have an adjustable DC power supply around. So I made this Tread with socketed R1 and R2. With this setup I can easily get any voltage between 12V and 35V using tangents resistor table (taped to the top of the case with the extra resistors.
I also added a header so I can connect wires directly if that is more convenient.
IMG_1913.jpg

IMG_1916.jpg
 
Dec 19, 2008 at 9:35 AM Post #3,967 of 9,811
Quote:

Originally Posted by rds /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I find it's handy to have an adjustable DC power supply around. So I made this Tread with socketed R1 and R2. With this setup I can easily get any voltage between 12V and 35V using tangents resistor table (taped to the top of the case with the extra resistors.
I also added a header so I can connect wires directly if that is more convenient.
IMG_1913.jpg



That is a top idea.
 
Dec 19, 2008 at 11:50 PM Post #3,969 of 9,811
...now for the dreaded case work

Here she is naked
_MBK6231.jpg


Mundorf ZN bypassers for Blackgate Standards. I know many will disagree with that combo but it sounds very very nice with 12AE6A's (12FK6's sounded a lot better on the classic Millett)
 
Dec 21, 2008 at 2:37 AM Post #3,974 of 9,811
Quote:

Originally Posted by lordvader /img/forum/go_quote.gif
What sort of case is that ?

Can it handle the weight of all that iron ?



It's a Hammond steel chassis and yes, it can handle the weight. You'll notice that all of the iron is located on the perimeter where the chassis has the most stiffness, it would have been a very bad idea to locate any of it out in the middle. That said it is a boat anchor and probably weighs the better part of 40 to 50lbs, just the way I like it.
 

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