[seroxatmad]

Hi

Thanks for the advice. I have 3 and 4mm but will try 6-32 (I cant get 3.5mm) with a tap.

I cant use longer as I have a grill type top (off a magazine rack) and hence it won't be fully suported.

John

 

[bhjazz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by vixr /img/forum/go_quote.gif go with longer screws... the area that could be tapped runs the whole length of the case

Also, certain screws (ok, the ones I used, anyway) are just large enough that they also threaded into the removable top of a Hammond. In my case, this meant that I had to undo four rear screws and the top two in the front to just get the lid off. A few minutes grinding away 1 mm or two of the lid in this area will keep this from happening.

 

[bhjazz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjkdivin /img/forum/go_quote.gif These are DAC/Headamps designed by Gary Marsh:

Hey Bob, nice work! I especially like your trademark fish on the rear side. Neat!

 

[Joshatdot]

CMoy v1.01 PCB:

- Panasonic ECQ Poly Film 1.0uF 50V Input Caps
- Panasonic FM 220uF 25v Power Caps
- Yageo MFR 1% 1/4w Resistors
- OPA2107 w/o R5 Resistors (but I might add 50ohm's)
- Alps RK097
- CUI 3.5mm Jacks
- euromint peppermint Mint Tin (from Fry's Electronics)



----------

I know the Dremel'ing looks horrible, I ran out of Sanding Drums & had to use grinding/honing bits. I need some kind of metal punch/press to cut the top lid part. An office/school Single Paper Hole Punch would be awkward with the rolled lip, I think.

 

[funch]

I just finished this little gem today. It's a tube buffer in a Hammond case. The assembled board came from DIYclub.biz. It's the model LS-29, and although mine came with tubes (Sovtek), I see that they now come w/o tubes. It runs off a 24VAC/2A wallwart. The only mod's I did to it were raising the tube sockets up .75 inch and installing the blue LEDs. It's connected to my modified Sony PS-1 playstation (model SCPH-1001) and it's sounding great. Very detailed and dynamic w/o being harsh, which is what I was looking for.

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/100_0481.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/100_0479.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/100_0478.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/100_0477.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/100_0476.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/100_0475.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/100_0474.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/100_0473.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/100_0472.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/100_0469.jpg

 

[bhjazz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by funch /img/forum/go_quote.gif I just finished this little gem today. It's a tube buffer in a Hammond case.

Lookin good.

I'll have to check that item out as it looks quite interesting. Thanks for posting!

 

[funch]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhjazz /img/forum/go_quote.gif Lookin good. I'll have to check that item out as it looks quite interesting. Thanks for posting!

Thanks. I think if I had it to do over, I would get just the board from the ebay store DIYGene (which looks identical to mine), and choose my own components. It's supposed to come with the schematic, which mine did not. Mine has Sanyo electrolytic caps, some kind of blue film caps made to look like Wima's, and the resistors look like Vishay-Dale RN series, but I don't think they are. My board seems well built, and only cost me $40 plus $16 shipping, so it's pretty cheap. According to the DIYGene store, it's based off the Musical Fidelity circuit, though I'm not sure which generation.

 

[Mazuki]

It's based on the V2 tube buffer. If you look at Pink Floyd's Rock Groto, you'll find the layout is essentially the same.

 

[funch]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mazuki /img/forum/go_quote.gif It's based on the V2 tube buffer. If you look at Pink Floyd's Rock Groto, you'll find the layout is essentially the same.

Yah, I think you're right. I couldn't find the V2 buffer, but the layout does look like the X-Cans V2.

 

[thebob]

Quote:

Originally Posted by seroxatmad /img/forum/go_quote.gif Ello Looks beautiful. This is the front panel express finished article for my kumisa III from headwize. The front screws will have to be glued in unless anyone has any ideas...the 3mm are to smalll and 4mm to large. And no i can't get 3.5mm. John

Just buy a M4X1 spiral tap and go very slow with a flat tap handle. About an eighth of a turn in each time and a sixteenth of a turn out.

Or they do those threaded inserts you install with a pop riviter, but I dont think you will have enough to drill out.

Here it recomends " You may use the self-tapping flat-head screws provided with the Hammond case, or tap the case and use imperial #6-32 or metric M3.5 flat-head machine screws. A minimum screw length of 0.375" (9.5mm) is recommended. "

http://www.amb.org/audio/mini3/

Near the bottom!

 

[MusicallySilent]

Quote:

Originally Posted by digitalmind /img/forum/go_quote.gif Very nice stuff all! Love seeing those sexy, sexy amps and dac's. I spent some time with sandpaper tonight, and pretty much prepped my Buschhorn's for veneering. I finally have them playing in their final shape. Though the drivers aren't broken in yet they sound quite promising. http://www.iamrik.com/buschhorn/buschhorn3.jpg[/img And here they are next to my earlier build, the Cyburg Sticks. As you can see, I hate the actual finishing stage, the Sticks are also still veneer-less. [img]http://www.head-fi.org/forums/images/smilies/http://hfimage.head-fi.org/smilies/biggrin.gif http://www.iamrik.com/buschhorn/buschhorn1.jpg[/img And oh, excuse the huge mess. [img]http://www.head-fi.org/forums/images/smilies/http://hfimage.head-fi.org/smilies/wink.gif

I am highly tempted to build a pair of these... but first a few questions.

A: About how much did it cost for all the parts
B: What wood did you use
C: Do they cover all the frequencies well that they would be a good replacement for some 3 way (short floor standers like 2ft or 60cm tall)

 

[applevalleyjoe]

Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher /img/forum/go_quote.gif bper, I like the visual style. I think some of the images of the DAC could use a bit more indirect light but that could just be my monitor. And your pictures of the mini³ got me motivated when I got home from work... Sounds great so far and all of amb's measurement tests check, wuhoo! Start to finish was under two hours, not bad at all.

Where do you buy the kit and parts? are the directions posted anywhere? Appreciate some info.

 

[MusicallySilent]

Quote:

Originally Posted by applevalleyjoe /img/forum/go_quote.gif Where do you buy the kit and parts? are the directions posted anywhere? Appreciate some info.

Its the mini^3 v2 amplifier

Check out http://www.amb.org/audio/mini3/

Also check out headwize.com

 

[Captain ?degard]

Been using the PSP for a media center at home (yes i dont need anything better ) so I made this to holde it whil ethe TV cable is connected (you can see it stick out on the right)

 

[digitalmind]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MusicallySilent /img/forum/go_quote.gif I am highly tempted to build a pair of these... but first a few questions. A: About how much did it cost for all the parts B: What wood did you use C: Do they cover all the frequencies well that they would be a good replacement for some 3 way (short floor standers like 2ft or 60cm tall)

A: About €100. €35 times two for the drivers, €20 for wood, rest for internal wiring and connectors.

B: 15mm MDF. Very easy to work with, cheap, and solid.

C: That depends. Do you like a full bass, both in volume and in pressure? If so, skip the 4" fullrange speakers. However, the size you're talking about is rather small, and in terms of frequency plot, I think the W4-655SA will go along way in competing with them in the lower frequency. These speakers however are really all about midrange, and they do it very well. If you want a full-ish bass out of them, don't build the Buschhorns, but rather go with the Cyburg Sticks. Still though, don't expect something that shakes the house...

These speakers however are great in midrange and highs. They are not a speaker that I'll be having for a very long time though... I'm looking for more slam and some actual bass pressure. It's a very fun and cheap build and if you can ignore their bass shortcomings (though mind you, their only shortcoming is the actual feeling of the bass, sound wise they are pretty good in the lows), you'll have plenty fun listening to them.

Also something to note: I'm running these speakers with well into €2k of electronics powering them, and I don't think that's out of proportion with these speakers. Very fun stuff!