[Pars]

@Pars yeah they don't look too bad. fdm 3d prints are never going to look great straight from the printer. Get yourself some primer, some paint, and a range of different grit sandpapers.
The main problem with PLA is it is a nightmare to sand...it takes ages.
My first set were PLA, then for the second set I used PETG which is much more forgiving.

Supports are an absolute nuisance, but a neccessity unfortunately.

Got a set of the baffles and pad rings cleaned up. It looks like the support settings used were a bit aggressive, as there was a solid layer of material that I could tell shouldn't be there, but was not latticed or whatever you call if for normal support material. After some prying, I was able to get it up and following around the part, get it all off.

However, on the cups, there is a layer of this at the bottom of each cup which shouldn't be there. This would reduce the cup volume and probably effect the sound. I'm not sure how (or if) I can get this out of there.

 

[Reinhold]

use a small screwdriver and try to get under the supportlayer.

 

[Pars]

After getting the baffles and pad rings cleaned up, and figuring out how much force, best tools, etc., I got em. I used a small chisel and once I got a corner up, I just went around them and they popped right out. Surprising.
I'm not in a big hurry on these, so will start sanding. Might use some body filler too. Need to figure out a good glue for PLA. I did put a small crack in one of the Hirose jack housings which I'll need to seal up.

 

[gb160]

Got a set of the baffles and pad rings cleaned up. It looks like the support settings used were a bit aggressive, as there was a solid layer of material that I could tell shouldn't be there, but was not latticed or whatever you call if for normal support material. After some prying, I was able to get it up and following around the part, get it all off.

However, on the cups, there is a layer of this at the bottom of each cup which shouldn't be there. This would reduce the cup volume and probably effect the sound. I'm not sure how (or if) I can get this out of there.

The default settings for my Prusa, set in the slicer, were far too difficult to remove at first. I just went on their forums and someone a lot smarter than me had posted his support settings and now they're much easier to remove...with PETG they tend to stay on the steel sheet when I pull the print off.

 

[camride]

Does anyone know where to get a replacement part for the slider holder? This site is the only place I've been able to find it so far but it's out of stock.

https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/551831-fostex-1412000402-front-slider-holder-for-t40rp

I finished my open alpha build on my old T50rp but one of those pieces broke a long time ago and I glued it back together. I was trying to clean it up and repaint it but that didn't go very well and it doesn't look as nice as I wanted. I was hoping to order some replacements but it appears to be a difficult to locate them.

 

[IvanDrago]

Does anyone know where to get a replacement part for the slider holder? This site is the only place I've been able to find it so far but it's out of stock.

https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/551831-fostex-1412000402-front-slider-holder-for-t40rp

I finished my open alpha build on my old T50rp but one of those pieces broke a long time ago and I glued it back together. I was trying to clean it up and repaint it but that didn't go very well and it doesn't look as nice as I wanted. I was hoping to order some replacements but it appears to be a difficult to locate

look at thingiverse

 

[JaquesGelee]

Hey there,

what do you all think? Clear varnish or Alpha Dog red?

*it is 3D printed nylon with a percentage of wood.

Thank you

 

[socks2sound]

Sadly, I couldn't get the same finish as the th900, probably put the lacquer on too thick over the silver leaf. It definitely looks pretty good though

 

[IvanDrago]

Clear varnish or Alpha Dog red?

blue

It definitely looks pretty good though

Looks good. Maybe some clear coat?

What about the soundquality, how did you dampen the drivers and the inner cups?

 

[VanHai]

Sadly, I couldn't get the same finish as the th900, probably put the lacquer on too thick over the silver leaf. It definitely looks pretty good though

They look very nice, but you need to invest in a headphones hanger. Ha ha, but that is a fruit basket and banana hanger

 

[socks2sound]

blue


Looks good. Maybe some clear coat?

What about the soundquality, how did you dampen the drivers and the inner cups?

Actually the last layer of urushi lacquer is supposed to be the clear coat, but my stupid butt thought to try to make it a transparent red by mixing a little too much iron oxide. If the last layer of lacquer had a bit less iron oxide mixed in, I probably would have gotten what I wanted. After that, it gets polished by camphor oil and migakiko powder. If you've seen urushi works or pens, the gloss that comes from them is pretty nice.

About the sound quality, it's definitely an upgrade over the stock T50RP and while the instrument separation is far better than what I've heard on my Akg k702's and much warmer than my Grado SR200s, the bass is a bit...bloated? Maybe my ears are too used to my Akg K702's... anyway, I've got the bass screw all the way closed which tames it quite a bit. I did nothing to dampen the drivers and only used akasa paxmate and some cotton balls from cvs for the inner cups. I probably should dampen the drivers but a couple screw posts have already snapped so....yeah LOL

They look very nice, but you need to invest in a headphones hanger. Ha ha, but that is a fruit basket and banana hanger

ok

 

[JaquesGelee]

Yes I did.

Do you have pictures of the finished build?

 

[IvanDrago]

Awesome color. Galaxy blue?

 

[JaquesGelee]

Awesome color. Galaxy blue?

I don´t know. We have to ask u/FireLion.

 

[krack]

Hello folks.
I made an album on my own alphas. It was a decent first attempt. Skipped a lot of steps because I didn't have the pics and I plan to revise this in the future anyway.
https://imgur.com/a/2SyQtwP