I like the plain white, looks cool!
Can I ask where you purchased the comfort strap, and also your cable?
"Open Alpha" T50 3D printed headphone project from MrSpeakers
- Thread starter mrspeakers
- Start date
Can I ask where you purchased the comfort strap, and also your cable?
Yeah sure. I'm a believer in supporting the original creator so the comfort strap was from Dan Clark himself off amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Comfort-Head-Strap-Fostex-Headphones/dp/B00851Z99S/
The cable is from Hart Audio Cables. Default "Touch of Gray" color. I forgot to mention my Alphas use dual 3.5mm, not the Dan Clark Hirose connectors because I don't have any parts or cables for those.
https://hartaudiocables.com/collections/headphone-cables?page=1
Thats excellent thanks, mine use the same connectors so that's perfect, those ones you linked to aren't ridiculously priced either.
Typically the comfort strap is unavailable for me, so if anyone can link to something similar that would great.
I mean, I'm not gonna lie when I say I was tempted to buy this:
https://understatedmontreal.com/product/comfort-strap-for-fostex-rp-series/
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man those are beautiful!
white looks sexy
JaquesGelee
500+ Head-Fier
Hey,
what about the vent holes on the back?
Let them closed, Drill them or make a cut like above?
Thank you
what about the vent holes on the back?
Let them closed, Drill them or make a cut like above?
Thank you
omegaorgun
Previously known as FireLion
The pic above went to a YouTuber, I still have to finish mine lol! Sounded great!
Well its on to #3 for me on these. Doing it a bit differently each time. 1st set were dont essentially as stock, 2nd were on a pair of mk2 with alpha prime cup internals, and this time its going to be powder coating the cups with the same alpha prime internals and 3.5 connectors instead of my previous 2.5. Good times! Wonder why I'm so addicted to building these?
It would be great if you could post some pictures from the alpha prime cup internals. What materials you have used.
I‘ve build the open alphas but i am not 100% satisfied with the sound. Sometimes the highs gets very piercing and hurt my ears.
Would like to see this coated cups
JaquesGelee
500+ Head-Fier
Hey sweeties,
I was finally able to finish my first Open Alpha build. It was much harder than i thought to realize my preferences.
I have to thank all the people out there, who supported me during the process, especially Dan Clark, who answered every of my dumb monk questions...
If i can help in anyway, how not to do some steps here for example, feel free to ask.
Audiophile Greetings
I was finally able to finish my first Open Alpha build. It was much harder than i thought to realize my preferences.
I have to thank all the people out there, who supported me during the process, especially Dan Clark, who answered every of my dumb monk questions...
If i can help in anyway, how not to do some steps here for example, feel free to ask.
Audiophile Greetings
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Those are nothing short of majestic!Hey sweeties,
I was finally able to finish my first Open Alpha build. It was much harder than i thought to realize my preferences.
I have to thank all the people out there, who supported me during the process, especially Dan Clark, who answered every of my dumb monk questions...
If i can help in anyway, how not to do some steps here for example, feel free to ask.
Audiophile Greetings
Waiting for my prints to get some sand paper love and a few coats of lacquer. Then i just need to soruce some 3,5mm connectors are we are good to go. So much looking forward to taking this step in the T50rp modding journey.
Mine will be blue/green from the plastic it was printed with. Kinda looks like tropic ocean when turned in different angels with a light source. Really really cool
3Ktone
New Head-Fier
Hi everyone,
I've been a lurker on this thread for a while, but I finally got to put this together after a long wait. My old headphones were... all mid and nothing else. I had to do some nasty things to the equalizer to get them to sound halfway decent.
Compared to those, the T50RP were a huge upgrade. I could actually hear an enormous amount of detail in my music. However, the lows were a bit lackluster and the high end was more overbearing than my dog. Changing pads (I went with the Brainwavz Hybrid) helped a lot with the lower end and a little bit on the higher end, though it was still fairly shrill.
I ended up printing the parts in PLA or two different brands because I ran out of the first (this is explained more below). I used 3.5mm female jacks (PJ-392) instead of the HiRose connectors, however I do plan on upgrading to the HiRose connectors in the future. I got my cable from Hart Audio Cables and got a 3.5mm Interconnect as well as a 2.5mm balanced interconnect for when I eventually get a better DAC than what's on my motherboard, though that's not a big priority at the moment. All I was missing was the foam sheet.
Cut to today when my foam sheets finally arrive. I put it together and oh man, the left ear sounded amazing.
But the right ear... I don't know exactly why, but the sub-bass on the right ear was just overpowering and the other frequencies were faded. My best guess is that this might be due in part to bad assembly but more likely due to a failed print.
Mini rant about my terrible replacement filament ahead: I was originally on one brand of PLA (Creality) for the baffles/ear pieces. Never have had any issues with it and it was a surprisingly forgiving filament. But I just ran out of it and I switched to a different brand (JAYO) for the ear cups. I don't know where in the depths of hell this filament was pulled from, but it hates being extruded. The print quality itself is not bad, but nothing to write home about. But pushing it through the extruder is like trying to get a child to go to the dentist. It doesn't matter how high I raise the temperature (I was pushing 230C) or how slowly I print, the extruder ALWAYS starts skipping. Most of the time it isn't too bad, but other times it just locks up completely and the print fails. It's fine with smaller prints, but if you look away for more than 15 minutes it will go awry. I don't know how the left cup managed to print successfully.
What happened with the right cup is that the print failed midway, but I tried to salvage it by modifying the GCODE file and starting the print at the last good layer. And I actually managed to salvage the print... or so I thought. During assembly, I put a bit too much pressure on the seam where the print originally failed and the cup cracked. I tried to fix it with super glue, but that didn't end up working. I don't know if this is the exact or only cause of the excessive sub-base, but it seems to be the most likely one.
Anyway, I'm now waiting for some PETG to arrive. Hopefully it'll print ok and won't require all my love and attention (especially when these prints are pushing 9 hours). I'm going to print the ear cups in green and the ear pieces/baffles in black. At some point I might chemical polish them, but methylene chloride is not something I plan to get in the near future.
I've been a lurker on this thread for a while, but I finally got to put this together after a long wait. My old headphones were... all mid and nothing else. I had to do some nasty things to the equalizer to get them to sound halfway decent.
Compared to those, the T50RP were a huge upgrade. I could actually hear an enormous amount of detail in my music. However, the lows were a bit lackluster and the high end was more overbearing than my dog. Changing pads (I went with the Brainwavz Hybrid) helped a lot with the lower end and a little bit on the higher end, though it was still fairly shrill.
I ended up printing the parts in PLA or two different brands because I ran out of the first (this is explained more below). I used 3.5mm female jacks (PJ-392) instead of the HiRose connectors, however I do plan on upgrading to the HiRose connectors in the future. I got my cable from Hart Audio Cables and got a 3.5mm Interconnect as well as a 2.5mm balanced interconnect for when I eventually get a better DAC than what's on my motherboard, though that's not a big priority at the moment. All I was missing was the foam sheet.
Cut to today when my foam sheets finally arrive. I put it together and oh man, the left ear sounded amazing.
But the right ear... I don't know exactly why, but the sub-bass on the right ear was just overpowering and the other frequencies were faded. My best guess is that this might be due in part to bad assembly but more likely due to a failed print.
Mini rant about my terrible replacement filament ahead: I was originally on one brand of PLA (Creality) for the baffles/ear pieces. Never have had any issues with it and it was a surprisingly forgiving filament. But I just ran out of it and I switched to a different brand (JAYO) for the ear cups. I don't know where in the depths of hell this filament was pulled from, but it hates being extruded. The print quality itself is not bad, but nothing to write home about. But pushing it through the extruder is like trying to get a child to go to the dentist. It doesn't matter how high I raise the temperature (I was pushing 230C) or how slowly I print, the extruder ALWAYS starts skipping. Most of the time it isn't too bad, but other times it just locks up completely and the print fails. It's fine with smaller prints, but if you look away for more than 15 minutes it will go awry. I don't know how the left cup managed to print successfully.
What happened with the right cup is that the print failed midway, but I tried to salvage it by modifying the GCODE file and starting the print at the last good layer. And I actually managed to salvage the print... or so I thought. During assembly, I put a bit too much pressure on the seam where the print originally failed and the cup cracked. I tried to fix it with super glue, but that didn't end up working. I don't know if this is the exact or only cause of the excessive sub-base, but it seems to be the most likely one.
Anyway, I'm now waiting for some PETG to arrive. Hopefully it'll print ok and won't require all my love and attention (especially when these prints are pushing 9 hours). I'm going to print the ear cups in green and the ear pieces/baffles in black. At some point I might chemical polish them, but methylene chloride is not something I plan to get in the near future.
JCRG
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2011
- Posts
- 128
- Likes
- 30
I cannot find Paxmate in my country, would dynamat and acoustic foam work as replacement?
I can get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10415-Self-Adhesive-Deadener-Speaker/dp/B00020CATC/
https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B01KZ5X7KO/
Thanks and best regards.
I can get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10415-Self-Adhesive-Deadener-Speaker/dp/B00020CATC/
https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B01KZ5X7KO/
Thanks and best regards.
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