By my posts - you can probably tell I have NO IDEA what I'm doing for the rolling process, but I'm still doing it anyway - and it's definitely worth the trouble.
Thanks for the browndog suggestion - off to butcher some soldering . . .
Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Well the nice thing about the stock D1 is that it is easy to upgrade it.
Who uses an iRiver?? I have one now but the optical out, though red and appearing to transmit, does not send a signal to lock onto. I wonder what else I need to do?
Yuheng had the same issue with his Z-something DAC and iRiver and he had old firmware. He updated the iRiver firmware and that fixed it.
I'm interested in this with my MS2i's but am concerned about the gain. My current source sounds wonderful but is lacking current for my choice of headphones. Can the gain easily be adjusted or will iBasso deliver them with a different gain setting - I'm guessing somewhere around 2 or 3? Also would adjusting the gain limit the opAmp rolling options? (I know fairly little about electronics.
)
I'm interested in the PICO as well, but it's more expensive and doesn't have optical inputs. I guess my ideal would be a Gilmore Lite with a DA and optical inputs. I don't care that much about portability as long as it's not overly large.
Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yuheng had the same issue with his Z-something DAC and iRiver and he had old firmware. He updated the iRiver firmware and that fixed it.
It worked! Thanks for the info. Ron has been helping to and I thank him. I do want to get a remote for this thing though.
Originally Posted by Capunk /img/forum/go_quote.gif Does this means,
AD823 + NE5532*2 is completely separate from AD8616?
AD8616 handle this part ?
(Digital Connection) -> (DAC) -> (D1 Line Out)
or
(Digital Connection) -> (DAC) -> (D1 headphone amp) -> (D1 headphone out)?
So I upgrade the AD823 + NE5532*2 for something like OPA2111 + LM4562,
and in this case I still using the default AD8616, Will it improve the SQ if I'm using this combination?
I think, what he meant was: if you're using D1 as a standalone DAC, outputting its signal to another, higher quality amp, then you don't have to worry about its amp section and the op-amps within it. Otherwise, you'll still get an improvement from 'OPA2111 + LM4562' without rolling DAC's op-amp in your:
(Digital input, USB) -> (D1 DAC) -> (D1 amp) -> (D1 HP out)
Originally Posted by rnd /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm interested in this with my MS2i's but am concerned about the gain. My current source sounds wonderful but is lacking current for my choice of headphones. Can the gain easily be adjusted or will iBasso deliver them with a different gain setting - I'm guessing somewhere around 2 or 3? Also would adjusting the gain limit the opAmp rolling options? (I know fairly little about electronics.
)
I'm interested in the PICO as well, but it's more expensive and doesn't have optical inputs. I guess my ideal would be a Gilmore Lite with a DA and optical inputs. I don't care that much about portability as long as it's not overly large.
IM using the D1 with SR225s and I think it sounds great. My vintage RS2s should be here this afternoon and Ill report back again.
Originally Posted by Capunk /img/forum/go_quote.gif Does this means,
AD823 + NE5532*2 is completely separate from AD8616?
AD8616 handle this part ?
(Digital Connection) -> (DAC) -> (D1 Line Out)
or
(Digital Connection) -> (DAC) -> (D1 headphone amp) -> (D1 headphone out)?
So I upgrade the AD823 + NE5532*2 for something like OPA2111 + LM4562,
and in this case I still using the default AD8616, Will it improve the SQ if I'm using this combination?
I may be totally off on this. This is just my educated guess. If I am then please Hiflight or Jamato8 speak up.
Basically the signal from the Optical, Coax or USB goes through the 8616 to provide line signal for the line out and input signal for the D1 amp stage. If you are using the internal headphone amp and DAC it goes through all 4 chips but if you are just using the headphone amp and the analog line in then it just uses the 3 chips in the amp stage. If you are using just the dac and outputting via the aux in/out port then just the 8616 is used. This is my understanding.
Originally Posted by zer010gic /img/forum/go_quote.gif I may be totally off on this. This is just my educated guess. If I am then please Hiflight or Jamato8 speak up.
Basically the signal from the Optical, Coax or USB goes through the 8616 to provide line signal for the line out and input signal for the D1 amp stage. If you are using the internal headphone amp and DAC it goes through all 4 chips but if you are just using the headphone amp and the analog line in then it just uses the 3 chips in the amp stage. If you are using just the dac and outputting via the aux in/out port then just the 8616 is used. This is my understanding.
Corey
Corey....
You are correct in your analysis of the D1 signal path.
There are a couple of opamps that, IMO, improve the DAC section. They AD8656 is a good choice. I am currently using the AD746 as a DAC opamp replacement.
Several different opamps sound good as buffers. The AD8397 remains my choice for all-around performance with a wide variety of phones of differing impedances and efficiencies. The AD8599 is a very clean, low-noise opamp that also works well. Some prefer the detail of the LM4562.
Surprisingly, the AD8616 which was originally used by iBasso as the DAC amplifier functions very well as a buffer. In combination with the ADA4841-2 L&R opamp, the sound is excellent while current draw is very low.
I would also suggest that the inexpensive Radio Shack DIP socket, part number 276-1995 which I use for mounting the DAC replacement opamp, be used with the buffers to simplify installation and removal. They only cost 69 cents per pair.
Again, I would like to restate that there is NO "best" combination of opamps that will please all ears. The ones previously mentioned all sound good to most people but picking a favorite really depends on personal preferences. For example, Mrarroyo and I prefer different L&R and buffers opamp combinations, although each of us consider our preference to be the "best" for our individual ears.
Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif It worked! Thanks for the info. Ron has been helping to and I thank him. I do want to get a remote for this thing though.
no pro dude, i was accidently updated the firmware by installing rockbox, and it suddenly work, i was shocked as well...
and i do spend quite some times to look for the optical out in rockbox, finally found that in playback settings, how noob i m
I see that we have black gate caps in 15000,22000 and 47000(n series).So some one tell me does it mena the huigher we go the better the amp performance(for portable)Is 47000uf to high for a portable set up.
All those who done black gate upgrades on their d1s which one sdid you guys choose?
***I know tho those who are electronic whiz kids my question might sound like a joke but then I am blank when it coems to these stuff so learnign through the trail and error method
Black Gates are big and too big in the larger uf's. I use 47uf HiQ as seen in the first page images and some much smaller ones as a bypass.
Has anyone been able to load Rockbox on their iRiver with a Mac computer? I have a Mac but it doesn't recognize the patch needed for the firmware to use the Rockbox.
Originally Posted by HiFlight /img/forum/go_quote.gif Corey....
You are correct in your analysis of the D1 signal path.
There are a couple of opamps that, IMO, improve the DAC section. They AD8656 is a good choice. I am currently using the AD746 as a DAC opamp replacement.
Several different opamps sound good as buffers. The AD8397 remains my choice for all-around performance with a wide variety of phones of differing impedances and efficiencies. The AD8599 is a very clean, low-noise opamp that also works well. Some prefer the detail of the LM4562.
Surprisingly, the AD8616 which was originally used by iBasso as the DAC amplifier functions very well as a buffer. In combination with the ADA4841-2 L&R opamp, the sound is excellent while current draw is very low.
I would also suggest that the inexpensive Radio Shack DIP socket, part number 276-1995 which I use for mounting the DAC replacement opamp, be used with the buffers to simplify installation and removal. They only cost 69 cents per pair.
Again, I would like to restate that there is NO "best" combination of opamps that will please all ears. The ones previously mentioned all sound good to most people but picking a favorite really depends on personal preferences. For example, Mrarroyo and I prefer different L&R and buffers opamp combinations, although each of us consider our preference to be the "best" for our individual ears.
This may be a shot in the dark cause I'm still new to this, but could it be thought of that the more current draw there is the more bass would be, but less battery life? If so, which opamps draw the most current, since I'm not using this as a portable, and I'm looking for the punchiest bass combo of opamps.
Originally Posted by rnd /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm interested in this with my MS2i's but am concerned about the gain. My current source sounds wonderful but is lacking current for my choice of headphones. Can the gain easily be adjusted or will iBasso deliver them with a different gain setting - I'm guessing somewhere around 2 or 3? Also would adjusting the gain limit the opAmp rolling options? (I know fairly little about electronics.
)
I'm interested in the PICO as well, but it's more expensive and doesn't have optical inputs. I guess my ideal would be a Gilmore Lite with a DA and optical inputs. I don't care that much about portability as long as it's not overly large.
I would not be at all concerned with the gain of the D1.
I have found the factory gain setting to be perfectly adequate for all the phones I have tried, from the very efficient to very inefficient, from high-impedance to low-impedance.
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