[jj94]

My C710's gave out yesterday; the right IEM won't produce anymore sound. The cable for the right IEM is probably disconnected where the miniplug is because if I position the cable JUST right and apply some pressure, sound returns to the IEM. So I was wondering if it's possible to recable C710's. The end of the IEM where the nozzle and tip are seems to be connected to the rest of the IEM through a hinge, almost like that of a lid. I would like to attempt to recable these as I would prefer to not drop a load of money on some new ones. Though...and upgrade would be nice at this time. Any advice? 

 

[jj94]

Anyone? If the C710's can't be recabled, then any suggestions for new IEM's are welcome! Before, I was settled on the SM3's for an upgrade, but I'm afraid that's out of my budget for the time being. I'd like to keep it in the low $200's at most. I loved the bass of the C710's, though the treble could have been much better and smoother, and the mids could have been more pronounced. All in all, I'd like to get a good all rounder that's slightly on the warm side.

 

[Baycode]

For sometime I have the same question. I have googled this question for many times but did not reach anything.
 
But my C710's are still fine so I dont want to risk it.
 
Since your C710's are useless now why dont you try to open it by the help of a knife or very thin headed screwdriver?
 
I beleive that the connection part of the plastic to the aluminum housing is the right place to start with...
 
You may share your valuable input then?

 

[jj94]

Hmm. So I went ahead and took it apart. I used the blade of a hobby knife to pry the case apart. Turns out that there is no hinge. The case was held together with some rubbery glue, and was relatively easy to pry apart.

 
The entire driver assembly lies in the smaller part of the case. The space in the larger part of the case is taken up by the cable and some protective foam, to keep things from shaking and getting loose.

 
 
I went ahead and pulled out the foam, revealing the back of the IEM. As expected, the end of the cable was knotted and wedged in the back of the case. 
 
Here you can see where the wires are connected to the back of the driver. All in all...pretty simple.
 
I clipped the twisted strands of wire to release the driver asembly from the rest of the case. This allowed me to take out the rest of the cable. Here's basically all of the parts of the IEM laid out. Looks like it's going to be a simple recabling job.

 
So now that I know that I can recable this thing...I'll need some help with choosing the cable to use. I'll need to buy a mini plug for it too. And should I consider new things for stress relief? The stock stress relievers kind of suck. They won't let larger diameter cables through either.

 

[migsev]

Did you have any luck recabling them?

 

[jj94]

No, unfortunately I've made no progress. I have no idea what cable to order. I was thinking of buying a replacement cable made for IEM's with cables that can be replaced like the SE535 and then modify that to my own needs so that the miniplug would already be there with the Y split.

 

[migsev]

Quote:

No, unfortunately I've made no progress. I have no idea what cable to order. I was thinking of buying a replacement cable made for IEM's with cables that can be replaced like the SE535 and then modify that to my own needs so that the miniplug would already be there with the Y split.

I was thinking of doing that too. I've got some Jaben ES8 cables that might become redundant soon. Can you just remove the connectors on top and use them to recable any IEM?

 

[jj94]

Those look like nice cables. But...man. Nice cables really come with a price. 

 

[migsev]

Quote:

Those look like nice cables. But...man. Nice cables really come with a price. 

I got mine for about $20 with shipping when there was a buy 2 for the price of 1 promo. Not bad if you ask me.

 

[Baycode]

Good success for opening these! I think this is the first on internet
 
Now I will have 2 suggestions for you.
 
One of them is really good quality cable but might be larger on diameter. Link is here:
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230550874022&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
 
The seller (Navships) told me that this is the softest silver coated copper cable in his store and can be suitable for iem and headphone applications. I have ordered one but my friend in USA has not shipped it to me yet. Navships is a good seller. Previously  I made 2 other purchases from him and they arrived safe.
 
But you need to see the cable yourself to consider if it is really suitable or not... Also you will need a mini stereo jack. Neutrik jacks are popular and they are small. You can buy them for 3-5 USD from online stores.
 
Other options are possible for recabling. You can purchase a cheap iem and use its cable with the jack attached so you dont need to worry about buying the jack separetly and soldering it.
 
This iem can be a good candidate:
 
http://focalprice.com/EP268X/Kanen_KM92_Wooden_Inear_Headphones.html
 
I bought one of these from focalprice. Surprisingly KM-92's cable seems to me very durable. It is thick, does not always tangle, and it is strong. It really seems better in quality than the C710,  Ai-M6 (older maun color version), EP-630 cables. But the jack is very small and the connection point seems filmsy but it is really durable. I have already tangled it two times very strongly to the obstacles while I was walking and it did not fell apart! One time the earphones fell out of my ears and the other time the jack came out of the player. So I beleive this cable and jack can last. Although microphonics are not great on these...
 
Its price is really cheap. Including shipping only 3.57 USD. So you will have nothing to loose
 
Please share your results with us
 
 
 
 
 

 

[Duffy1207]

I'm very interested to see the outcome of this, own a pair of C751's and C710's that have failed due to cable problems, the C710's have gone at the jack and the C751's seem to have gone by the y splitter, always intended to try fixing them but never got round to it. Anyone know of any basic re-cabling guides, never been able to find a good one?

 

[dweaver]

I say order a cable from a place like Fisher Audio or a replacement cable for the Triple-Fi 10, cut of it's connectors and solder away. I to am interested in how this turns out. You might get a nice suprise using a good cable as it may actually improve the SQ of the IEM.