[chinsettawong]

Have you already fixed it? I think the diaphragm doesn't have enough tension though. How do you like the sound?

 

[statfi]

All this and MUCH more is in the free book, by Frank Verwaal, the URL has been mentioned many times in this thread, but I cannot remember what it is without looking back.....

Thanks to Muamp "and the crew". The link on his page is http://home.kpn.nl/verwa255/esl/ESL_English_2011.pdf

 

[bruma]

Have you already fixed it? I think the diaphragm doesn't have enough tension though. How do you like the sound?

Yes I fixed these some time ago. The result is very good. The tension is done with the ridge/rim clamping of the holder and that is what I wanted to tell before. The MS2 are very special to restore.

 

[chinsettawong]

Yes I fixed these some time ago. The result is very good. The tension is done with the ridge/rim clamping of the holder and that is what I wanted to tell before. The MS2 are very special to restore.

I don’t quite understand how you tension the diaphragm. Did you not tension it to the right tension before you glue it to the spacer ring?

 

[bruma]

I don’t quite understand how you tension the diaphragm. Did you not tension it to the right tension before you glue it to the spacer ring?

Yes, no tensoin before mounting, just without wrinkles but without tension - the construction does the tensioning itself.

 

[federicopol]

Hello gents, i planned to build some diy headphones for a long time, a couple of yeras ago i written some posts on this thread but other projects caused the heaphones to go in the backburner.

Some times ago i milled some stators but the lack of 0.5mm fr4 from my vendor put another halt to the project.

Today i decided to proceed and finish the headphones still lacking the fr4 and not having my cnc anymore how can i made the spacer?

I decided to redesign the driver assembly making it simple (pcb stators apart but fortunately for this pair i have the old ones) to be built with simpler tools.

My stators are 95mm diameter FR4 circles with an active area of 74mm.

The finished headphones will not have a beautiful but difficult to make wood case but a simpler wooden disk with a protective grill glued on the inside.

The earpads (i'll cut them on measure and sew them on the sewing machine) will have the double function of earpads and cover/protect the driver assembly.
They will be glued on the disk/case.

The headphone viewed from the back or the front will be a 6 mm wooden disk and a big chunky earpad.

For the spacer i decided to use signage vinyl: i glued togheter 7 vinyl layers (0,5mm) cutted them on an hobby vinyl cutter and glued them on the stators.

I did 8 layers for the dust protectors, ear side.

I cutted the vinyl on a vinyl cutter but because my stators are round is simple to cut circular shapes with a rotary cutter compass.

The mylar diapagram will be glued on the vinyl, i'll use some small and thin (0'1mm) copper tabs to connect them to the cable.

Tonight i tried to tension the mylar and glueing it to the stator but i used the wrong glue so i have to wait tomorrow to buy a neoprene contact one.

I'll also redo the spacers because the wrong glue left residues that are hard to remove.

I think the vinyl spacer ( IF that work) could reduce the barrier of entry in the realm of diy electrostatic headpones:
Order some FR4 stators from a PCB factory in China, cut the spacers with a compass cutter and if a simple enough case can be made you can have an headphone without all the CNC tools.

Now a photo of the work in progress:

 

[Phthalo]

This thread is incredible, I created a head-fi account just to be a part of it. Wachara and everyone else who contributes here, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with the world, and for 8 years no less.

Anyway, I'm planning on building my own electrostatic headphones and am currently designing the stators using inkscape as suggested by Azrael3000 (thank you for the how-to guide, it's wonderful for a beginner like me). But I have no prior experience with inkscape and I'm having problems. I want to put holes in concentric circles, but when I try to use the "scatter" function to do this, I get two sets of holes going around the circular path like this:

Does anyone know how to fix this? I can't find an answer online.

Thank you for your help

 

[chinsettawong]

Hello gents, i planned to build some diy headphones for a long time, a couple of yeras ago i written some posts on this thread but other projects caused the heaphones to go in the backburner.

Some times ago i milled some stators but the lack of 0.5mm fr4 from my vendor put another halt to the project.

Today i decided to proceed and finish the headphones still lacking the fr4 and not having my cnc anymore how can i made the spacer?

I decided to redesign the driver assembly making it simple (pcb stators apart but fortunately for this pair i have the old ones) to be built with simpler tools.

My stators are 95mm diameter FR4 circles with an active area of 74mm.

The finished headphones will not have a beautiful but difficult to make wood case but a simpler wooden disk with a protective grill glued on the inside.

The earpads (i'll cut them on measure and sew them on the sewing machine) will have the double function of earpads and cover/protect the driver assembly.
They will be glued on the disk/case.

The headphone viewed from the back or the front will be a 6 mm wooden disk and a big chunky earpad.

For the spacer i decided to use signage vinyl: i glued togheter 7 vinyl layers (0,5mm) cutted them on an hobby vinyl cutter and glued them on the stators.

I did 8 layers for the dust protectors, ear side.

I cutted the vinyl on a vinyl cutter but because my stators are round is simple to cut circular shapes with a rotary cutter compass.

The mylar diapagram will be glued on the vinyl, i'll use some small and thin (0'1mm) copper tabs to connect them to the cable.

Tonight i tried to tension the mylar and glueing it to the stator but i used the wrong glue so i have to wait tomorrow to buy a neoprene contact one.

I'll also redo the spacers because the wrong glue left residues that are hard to remove.

I think the vinyl spacer ( IF that work) could reduce the barrier of entry in the realm of diy electrostatic headpones:
Order some FR4 stators from a PCB factory in China, cut the spacers with a compass cutter and if a simple enough case can be made you can have an headphone without all the CNC tools.

Now a photo of the work in progress:

Your stators look really good. By the way, you can buy the 0.5 mm FR4 on ebay easily. Please try.

Vinyl spacers should work too, but you need to glue it on the stator becasue it’s not rigid enough. I personally don’t like it.

Wachara C.

 

[federicopol]

Thanks Wachara, the vinyl is glued on this pair, next one i'll consider the FR4.

By the way some updates:

I used a different tensioning system than the ones used on the forum.

I work with sewing and embroidery machines by trade and embroidery machines uses tensioned frames of different shapes and measures so i used embroidery frames to tension the mylar.
That way the tensioning is really easy: i tensioned two diapagrams in a couple of minutes: once you find the right tension on the hoop screw you could repeat it with no problem. I also checked the free air resonance of the drivers (because i used two different frames) and the driver are matched (146hz).

I add photos of my tensioning jig.

First i position the inner hoop then the mylar, then a bigger inner hoop solely to help me keep the mylar wrinkle free, then i press the big outer hoop in place.

Check if there are wrinkles in the mylar. Check the "sound"/freeair resonance. Glue.

I hope to have some free time tomorrow to continue the building!

 

[quintile]

i use embroidery rings too, though i use home diy ones made of bamboo.

i also use the resonant frequency to set the tension. i suggest you record the resonance of the mylar in the ring, and in the headphone support rings ince you have glued them in place. this means you have very repeatable results so when you change things you can understand what is happening

-Steve

 

[Torac]

Thanks Wachara, the vinyl is glued on this pair, next one i'll consider the FR4.

By the way some updates:

I used a different tensioning system than the ones used on the forum.

I work with sewing and embroidery machines by trade and embroidery machines uses tensioned frames of different shapes and measures so i used embroidery frames to tension the mylar.
That way the tensioning is really easy: i tensioned two diapagrams in a couple of minutes: once you find the right tension on the hoop screw you could repeat it with no problem. I also checked the free air resonance of the drivers (because i used two different frames) and the driver are matched (146hz).

I add photos of my tensioning jig.

First i position the inner hoop then the mylar, then a bigger inner hoop solely to help me keep the mylar wrinkle free, then i press the big outer hoop in place.



Check if there are wrinkles in the mylar. Check the "sound"/freeair resonance. Glue.

I hope to have some free time tomorrow to continue the building!

Do you think you could make a video showing how this is done? Still slightly confused on all the steps but it looks like it would be really easy to repeat.

 

[federicopol]

Steve, thank you for the suggestion on double measuring.

I'll do that for sure.

What frequency do you usually aim?

I can do the video tomorrow.

The method is pretty easy. Basically you close the mylar between the two frame parts. If you search on youtube "industrial embroidery machine hooping" you can find the same tecnique but with fabric instead of mylar between the hoop parts.

For measure i hold the framed mylar in front of my speaker while they play different frequencies. (I use a bass test youtube video that shows the frequency on screen).

 

[quintile]

our frequencies will probably be different as my diaphrams are small (about 30mm) and i use 2 micron mylar - i am repairing old 1970s micro seiki headphones.

i will dig out the numbers.

i measure the frequency using an iPhone app “spectrum” from black cat. if you play with its settings you can get it to integrate energy in the spectrum. i use the phone close to the diaphram and rap the outer ring which makes it resonate and i can read off the frequency.
no more accurate as your method, but good fir lazy people like me.

 

[chinsettawong]

Thanks Wachara, the vinyl is glued on this pair, next one i'll consider the FR4.

By the way some updates:

I used a different tensioning system than the ones used on the forum.

I work with sewing and embroidery machines by trade and embroidery machines uses tensioned frames of different shapes and measures so i used embroidery frames to tension the mylar.
That way the tensioning is really easy: i tensioned two diapagrams in a couple of minutes: once you find the right tension on the hoop screw you could repeat it with no problem. I also checked the free air resonance of the drivers (because i used two different frames) and the driver are matched (146hz).

I add photos of my tensioning jig.

First i position the inner hoop then the mylar, then a bigger inner hoop solely to help me keep the mylar wrinkle free, then i press the big outer hoop in place.



Check if there are wrinkles in the mylar. Check the "sound"/freeair resonance. Glue.

I hope to have some free time tomorrow to continue the building!

That's interesting stretching technic. Thanks for sharing the idea.

 

[statfi]

I use 009. Can someone give me a detailed explanation of what happens when they fart? Is that the diaphragm, or the protective envelope, or what?
Am I correct that farts are not bad for the cans.
Do the various DIY cans also do this?