chinsettawong
Headphoneus Supremus
Have you already fixed it? I think the diaphragm doesn't have enough tension though. How do you like the sound?
Thanks to Muamp "and the crew". The link on his page is http://home.kpn.nl/verwa255/esl/ESL_English_2011.pdfAll this and MUCH more is in the free book, by Frank Verwaal, the URL has been mentioned many times in this thread, but I cannot remember what it is without looking back.....
Yes I fixed these some time ago. The result is very good. The tension is done with the ridge/rim clamping of the holder and that is what I wanted to tell before. The MS2 are very special to restore.Have you already fixed it? I think the diaphragm doesn't have enough tension though. How do you like the sound?
I don’t quite understand how you tension the diaphragm. Did you not tension it to the right tension before you glue it to the spacer ring?Yes I fixed these some time ago. The result is very good. The tension is done with the ridge/rim clamping of the holder and that is what I wanted to tell before. The MS2 are very special to restore.
Yes, no tensoin before mounting, just without wrinkles but without tension - the construction does the tensioning itself.I don’t quite understand how you tension the diaphragm. Did you not tension it to the right tension before you glue it to the spacer ring?
Hello gents, i planned to build some diy headphones for a long time, a couple of yeras ago i written some posts on this thread but other projects caused the heaphones to go in the backburner.
Some times ago i milled some stators but the lack of 0.5mm fr4 from my vendor put another halt to the project.
Today i decided to proceed and finish the headphones still lacking the fr4 and not having my cnc anymore how can i made the spacer?
I decided to redesign the driver assembly making it simple (pcb stators apart but fortunately for this pair i have the old ones) to be built with simpler tools.
My stators are 95mm diameter FR4 circles with an active area of 74mm.
The finished headphones will not have a beautiful but difficult to make wood case but a simpler wooden disk with a protective grill glued on the inside.
The earpads (i'll cut them on measure and sew them on the sewing machine) will have the double function of earpads and cover/protect the driver assembly.
They will be glued on the disk/case.
The headphone viewed from the back or the front will be a 6 mm wooden disk and a big chunky earpad.
For the spacer i decided to use signage vinyl: i glued togheter 7 vinyl layers (0,5mm) cutted them on an hobby vinyl cutter and glued them on the stators.
I did 8 layers for the dust protectors, ear side.
I cutted the vinyl on a vinyl cutter but because my stators are round is simple to cut circular shapes with a rotary cutter compass.
The mylar diapagram will be glued on the vinyl, i'll use some small and thin (0'1mm) copper tabs to connect them to the cable.
Tonight i tried to tension the mylar and glueing it to the stator but i used the wrong glue so i have to wait tomorrow to buy a neoprene contact one.
I'll also redo the spacers because the wrong glue left residues that are hard to remove.
I think the vinyl spacer ( IF that work) could reduce the barrier of entry in the realm of diy electrostatic headpones:
Order some FR4 stators from a PCB factory in China, cut the spacers with a compass cutter and if a simple enough case can be made you can have an headphone without all the CNC tools.
Now a photo of the work in progress:
Thanks Wachara, the vinyl is glued on this pair, next one i'll consider the FR4.
By the way some updates:
I used a different tensioning system than the ones used on the forum.
I work with sewing and embroidery machines by trade and embroidery machines uses tensioned frames of different shapes and measures so i used embroidery frames to tension the mylar.
That way the tensioning is really easy: i tensioned two diapagrams in a couple of minutes: once you find the right tension on the hoop screw you could repeat it with no problem. I also checked the free air resonance of the drivers (because i used two different frames) and the driver are matched (146hz).
I add photos of my tensioning jig.
First i position the inner hoop then the mylar, then a bigger inner hoop solely to help me keep the mylar wrinkle free, then i press the big outer hoop in place.
Check if there are wrinkles in the mylar. Check the "sound"/freeair resonance. Glue.
I hope to have some free time tomorrow to continue the building!
Thanks Wachara, the vinyl is glued on this pair, next one i'll consider the FR4.
By the way some updates:
I used a different tensioning system than the ones used on the forum.
I work with sewing and embroidery machines by trade and embroidery machines uses tensioned frames of different shapes and measures so i used embroidery frames to tension the mylar.
That way the tensioning is really easy: i tensioned two diapagrams in a couple of minutes: once you find the right tension on the hoop screw you could repeat it with no problem. I also checked the free air resonance of the drivers (because i used two different frames) and the driver are matched (146hz).
I add photos of my tensioning jig.
First i position the inner hoop then the mylar, then a bigger inner hoop solely to help me keep the mylar wrinkle free, then i press the big outer hoop in place.
Check if there are wrinkles in the mylar. Check the "sound"/freeair resonance. Glue.
I hope to have some free time tomorrow to continue the building!