My DIY electrostatic headphones
Jan 5, 2019 at 12:40 PM Post #3,181 of 4,058
Driving diaphragms with audio signal has been done, but it requires a low resistance membranes (aluminium foil) and high resistance stator. It's called inverted ESL. I'm using fully inverted ESL - one stator and 2 diaphragms, which are high resistance coated. Diaphragms are biased +360 and -360 V. Stator is a double sided copper, at 0V DC and is driven both sides with audio signal 220V AC. This is completely equal to 2 stators/1 diaphragm, except that you need double audio voltage in order to get 600V p2p. Linearity is the same, since both diaphragms are driven at the same time and mathematically they can be replaced with one driven from both sides. Actually they help each other to move in unison, since the air is trapped between them. Cons here are:
1. Double audio voltage - can't use and normal ESH amplifier without modding it or listen to a low level.
2. 4 equally tension-ed diaphragms - for me it's a big problem since I tension all separately.
3. Shielded cables for biases (it's a long and complicated story, remember my issue with channel separation?)
4. Need for thinner mylar - 3um are effectively around 4-5um - considering they move in unison and air is trapped between them (this is why I didn't want to use 11um kitchen foil :))

Advantages - as I see them in my personal opinion.
1. Extremely low drivers capacitance (in fact only cable capacitance is in the game). I think this is a good point to experiment with big ESL pannels
2. No need for dust/sweat covers (diaphragms are coated against the stator and air between them is sealed). But protective grills are very desirable.
3. Spacers on which the myler is glued can be as thick as you wish - I use 1.6mm FR4
4. Just 1 stator to drill per cup
5. Most people say that single output amp is easier to build.
Not sure I mentioned all, some of the pros and cons can be justified either way, according to person preferences. For example - membranes are always attracted to each other and to the stator - for me they are relatively more stable, but need a bit more tension. On the other hand they can be pressurized in advance with some inert gas so they are flat, or even a bit swollen, but I don't think this can be done DIY.
I like how they sound, can't really tell a difference between both designs, may be a bit bassier (because of the effectively thicker membrane), which for me is great - I love bass. And yet again, I can't compare them to any high quality headphones, I just know they sound far better than anything else I own.
 
Jan 5, 2019 at 1:18 PM Post #3,184 of 4,058
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing your design. About the bass, you should try different diaphragm tensions. It's not that easy to get a spot on tension. But, once you can achieve it, you can hear very, very deep bass.
Oh yes, I have tried so many tensions (I read almost the whole threat :L3000:). I have wasted may be 30 membranes already until I reached around 140 Hrz free air resonance and +- 360V bias (only for these 84mm drivers). Any lower than 140 or higher than 360 slaps the membrane to the stator. With these setting I have measured the FR and it's amazingly flat from 30 up to about 700 Hrz. I'm still using toroidal transformers, which can't go lower than 30 - they saturate and the output signal is almost a square wave. Even so, the bass is very deep - I can feel the pressure in my ears without actually hearing it.
 
Jan 5, 2019 at 1:57 PM Post #3,185 of 4,058
By the way, what spacer thickness between the stator and the diaphragm do you use? Why do you bias the diaphragm to only +/-350V? Have you tried a higher bias voltage?

How do you tension your diaphragm?
Well +-360 is actually 720 (between the 2 membranes) - way above 580V that you use. Yes it's only 360 /per membrane -stator, but unfortunately is not attracted only by the stator, but also by the other membrane. With normal design the membrane is attracted from both stators, so it's in kind of equilibrium. So we can say the membrane is at 0.5 mm from both stators. With me both membranes are actually closer - may be 0.45?, so the electrostatic force is higher.
I have tried with +-600V in the beginning, with no success, unless I increase the spacer to 0.8mm and apply more tension. The voltage between membranes became 1200V! with only 1+ 2 x 0.8 - 2.6 mm distance. You have to increase the tension a lot to make it stable, but then my precious bass is gone and all sort of sparking noises are there. With such high voltage there are many problems - resistors in the bias supply, cable (flat ribbon cable is rated to 300V btw), wooden housing, etc. I had sparks between membrane and wooden frame in many occasions, a 10 Mohm resistor in the bias supply was leaking current, etc. Once I lower it to 360, everything was back to normal.
I explained once my tension method, I don't want to bother everyone again, simply put I put the film (thermal printer ribbon film about 4um) on a flat glass and remove bubbles, then I glue the spacers and then adjust the tension with hair dryer, by measuring the free resonance frequency until I reach about 140 Hrz.
 
Jan 5, 2019 at 8:10 PM Post #3,186 of 4,058
Thanks for the explanation. About how you tension your diaphragm, I think you can have a much better tensioning result using a mechanical tension - either using weights or inner tire method like I do. Hot air can’t give enough tension to the diaphragm.

Anyway, that’s just my opinion. Your driver is interesting and I know that it must sound excellent. Keep us posted with your progress.
 
Jan 6, 2019 at 3:06 AM Post #3,189 of 4,058
@chinsettawong Thank you. I must find some time (and proper elements) to build my amp at last, then I can post some FR plots. As for the tension, my mylar is only 100mm wide, so it's impossible to stretch it mechanically. I agree, heating is not very good - it stretches uneven and is very difficult to make all of them equal, but it's the only option I have, until I get my ordered 2um mylar.
@bui501-tech Thank you. I went for this design, because I wanted to make something different and because of the 2 main advantages (IMHO) - low capacitance and "the no need" for dust cover. And the main reason of course - doing something with your own hands - so much fun.
@legopart Thanks for the nice words. I cut all parts, including housing on my DIY CNC router. It can be made by hand as well, but it's will be extremely difficult, and time consuming. Accuracy is also very important, that can't be done by hand. So to answer your question - 3D printer or CNC, but I think all will agree the shape is not so important, may be just for aesthetic point of view. You can see in this thread a lot of people doing their phones with rectangular shape.
I got the idea long time ago, but the real inspiration came from this thread, Chinsettawong, great thread indeed.
 
Jan 6, 2019 at 11:07 AM Post #3,190 of 4,058
I bought a Chinese 100W laser cutter for my own New Year gift. It's so easy to cut acrylics. This is going to be a lot of fun. :)

8-ABAD420-976-C-409-C-B80-D-7-E8-F9158-AFD2.jpg


CA670-A82-CD70-491-F-B190-E4694-BA6-A2-FC.jpg
 
Jan 7, 2019 at 2:25 AM Post #3,192 of 4,058
Unfortunately, I can't find any 0.5 mm acrylic yet. I'm just testing to see how well it cuts.

Actually, I'm planning to build a pair of electrostatic loudspeakers using the acrylic as the stators. I've bought some conductive paint which I will paint it on the stators to make them conductive. With this laser cutter, this task becomes so easy. :)
 
Jan 10, 2019 at 1:48 AM Post #3,195 of 4,058
Hi VandyMan,
I'm not sure you can find such thing for download. And it depends on the design itself. Mine for example, doesn't have through holes for holding everything together. And I have only a gcode for CNC.
A limited edition of Eagle software is free and relatively easy to use and can export gerber.
 

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