wppk
100+ Head-Fier
ok
it will take some time because I will have to take pictures and son on. but I will do
it will take some time because I will have to take pictures and son on. but I will do
My DIY electrostatic headphones
- Thread starter chinsettawong
- Start date
wppk
100+ Head-Fier
do you know if other people are repairing lambdas ?
- graphite powder (rubbed in, buffed) => [ risk of dust, crackling, reports of not too long lived...]
- soap => [ sensitive to humidity, reports of short live]
- elvamide => [apparently a mess to work with, never read a detailed report about problems, just things like "ït's troublesome"]
- nylon (dissolved) => any comments?
- antistatic cleaning gel => recommended by many in this thread, seams to be working fine
- (antistatic?) floor cleaner => seems to me like something between the cleaning gel and soap
- antistatic vinyl record cleane => read about this somwhere else, long ago, but sounds intriguing.
should be quite wear resistant. I am just a little worried, it might be conductive. Any comments on this?
Hi GvTT,
Elvamide and Nylon (disolved) are one and the same. Elvamide is nylon crystal(s).
The method to disolve the crystals is complex and dangerous if you do not have a fume extraction cubical.
You need to disolve the crystals by heating them in Methanol or Ethanol, which produces fumes that you do not want to inhale!
If you breathe the the Methanol fumes (for prolonged time) it can cause blindness or death.
Best avoid this method!
I use RS Anti-Static Spray (RS 514-486). I have been using it successfully for a year. Panels that I sprayed a year ago are still working fine.
It is also cheap!
In USA they commonly use Licron Crystal spray. There are a couple of suppliers in the UK that sell it, but it costs about £34.
Because it is expensive, I have not tried it....
Muamp.
- soap => [ sensitive to humidity, reports of short live]
- elvamide => [apparently a mess to work with, never read a detailed report about problems, just things like "ït's troublesome"]
- nylon (dissolved) => any comments?
- antistatic cleaning gel => recommended by many in this thread, seams to be working fine
- (antistatic?) floor cleaner => seems to me like something between the cleaning gel and soap
- antistatic vinyl record cleane => read about this somwhere else, long ago, but sounds intriguing.
should be quite wear resistant. I am just a little worried, it might be conductive. Any comments on this?
Hi GvTT,
Elvamide and Nylon (disolved) are one and the same. Elvamide is nylon crystal(s).
The method to disolve the crystals is complex and dangerous if you do not have a fume extraction cubical.
You need to disolve the crystals by heating them in Methanol or Ethanol, which produces fumes that you do not want to inhale!
If you breathe the the Methanol fumes (for prolonged time) it can cause blindness or death.
Best avoid this method!
I use RS Anti-Static Spray (RS 514-486). I have been using it successfully for a year. Panels that I sprayed a year ago are still working fine.
It is also cheap!
In USA they commonly use Licron Crystal spray. There are a couple of suppliers in the UK that sell it, but it costs about £34.
Because it is expensive, I have not tried it....
Muamp.
GvTT
New Head-Fier
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Hello Muamp,
thank you very much fo you input on the coatings. I will see that I can actually measure the resistance when I coat. There has been an interesting article in www.hackaday.com not long ago on measuring very small currents (https://dannyelectronics.wordpress.com/2016/01/28/the-nano-ammeter-you-already-have/) what might be usefull to measure the resistance of a coating.
Thanks as well for correcting me on Elvamide, I was not aware that this is actually Nylon.
====================================
The link to the RS Antistatic spray is highly appreciated, I will put it on the order lift for the next batch.
====================================
@Wppk: please give us more detail on your fail with the UHU Contact.
I recently bought UHU Contact Gel. Tonight I tried it on Mylar.
I cleaned a plate of copper (ScotchBright),
Applied UHU Contact Gel to a ca. 6mm wide section. (Clear)
To another ca. 6mm wide section I applied Pattex Contact Gel (yellow)
I applied it as thin as I could (was quite difficult as it dried before I could distribute it the way I wanted)
About 2 minutes later I pressed some 3ym Mylar (DuPont Terfphane) into it, rubbed it flat with my fingers.
I could not smell strong dissolvent fumes any more, so I did not wait the time given on the glue canisters.
About 1h later I tried to pull of the Mylar, with the following result:
- when pulling in plane, both (UHU and Pattex) sides tore, the Mylar plastified first. I could not notice an creeping or peeling.
- when peeling the remains off (pulling in normal direction to the gluing plane, no shear force in the glue), the Pattex was quite a bit stronger than the UHU.
- The UHU gave the thinner film, the more flat joint.
I will repeat this with a longer curing period.
Both UHU and Pattex require both surfaces to be coated with glue (contact glue). Since I think this is not feasible for membranes I did not wait the recommended 10 to 25 min for the glue to dry. I wanted some dissolvent left active in the glue.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
@Wachara and others: how long do you let the glue dry before you cut the membrane out of the stretched Mylar?
Greetings
Georg
thank you very much fo you input on the coatings. I will see that I can actually measure the resistance when I coat. There has been an interesting article in www.hackaday.com not long ago on measuring very small currents (https://dannyelectronics.wordpress.com/2016/01/28/the-nano-ammeter-you-already-have/) what might be usefull to measure the resistance of a coating.
Thanks as well for correcting me on Elvamide, I was not aware that this is actually Nylon.
====================================
The link to the RS Antistatic spray is highly appreciated, I will put it on the order lift for the next batch.
====================================
@Wppk: please give us more detail on your fail with the UHU Contact.
I recently bought UHU Contact Gel. Tonight I tried it on Mylar.
I cleaned a plate of copper (ScotchBright),
Applied UHU Contact Gel to a ca. 6mm wide section. (Clear)
To another ca. 6mm wide section I applied Pattex Contact Gel (yellow)
I applied it as thin as I could (was quite difficult as it dried before I could distribute it the way I wanted)
About 2 minutes later I pressed some 3ym Mylar (DuPont Terfphane) into it, rubbed it flat with my fingers.
I could not smell strong dissolvent fumes any more, so I did not wait the time given on the glue canisters.
About 1h later I tried to pull of the Mylar, with the following result:
- when pulling in plane, both (UHU and Pattex) sides tore, the Mylar plastified first. I could not notice an creeping or peeling.
- when peeling the remains off (pulling in normal direction to the gluing plane, no shear force in the glue), the Pattex was quite a bit stronger than the UHU.
- The UHU gave the thinner film, the more flat joint.
I will repeat this with a longer curing period.
Both UHU and Pattex require both surfaces to be coated with glue (contact glue). Since I think this is not feasible for membranes I did not wait the recommended 10 to 25 min for the glue to dry. I wanted some dissolvent left active in the glue.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
@Wachara and others: how long do you let the glue dry before you cut the membrane out of the stretched Mylar?
Greetings
Georg
wppk
100+ Head-Fier
Hi Georg
I respected the terms of the notice for the uhu, and, simply, it didn't glue , or very unefficiently.. The point is, in my opinion, that the uhu contact glue one can find in france ( hard to find) is not the same as the one you use, and here, we have several models of uhu contact glue, under the same name.
I respected the terms of the notice for the uhu, and, simply, it didn't glue , or very unefficiently.. The point is, in my opinion, that the uhu contact glue one can find in france ( hard to find) is not the same as the one you use, and here, we have several models of uhu contact glue, under the same name.
wppk
100+ Head-Fier
also, the mylar I use may not be the same as the one all of you use ?
The only ggod mylar I found here (good because of the thikness and the lenght in time) was in a DIY store, and its purpose is to cover the furniture in a house when one leaves it for a long while.
even if I doubt that its properties are very different from other mylars, it may not be unuseful to say that.
The only ggod mylar I found here (good because of the thikness and the lenght in time) was in a DIY store, and its purpose is to cover the furniture in a house when one leaves it for a long while.
even if I doubt that its properties are very different from other mylars, it may not be unuseful to say that.
GvTT
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Hi,
how are you getting a thing uniform glue film?
I can apply a thin layer, but I do not get it uniformly think. In my tries it was drying so fast, that I could not really spread it as evenly as I would like.
Do you dillute the contact glue?
Checking on the internet I found that ethyl acetate can be used to dissolve Pattex and similar glues, what would include UHU Contact
UHU contact gel: Polychloropren based
Pattex contact: Polychlorbutadien (what seems to be the same - please correct me if I am wrong)
I was thinking of mixing some glue with ethyl acetate to make it easier to apply it to the surface in a thin film.
Greetings
Georg
how are you getting a thing uniform glue film?
I can apply a thin layer, but I do not get it uniformly think. In my tries it was drying so fast, that I could not really spread it as evenly as I would like.
Do you dillute the contact glue?
Checking on the internet I found that ethyl acetate can be used to dissolve Pattex and similar glues, what would include UHU Contact
UHU contact gel: Polychloropren based
Pattex contact: Polychlorbutadien (what seems to be the same - please correct me if I am wrong)
I was thinking of mixing some glue with ethyl acetate to make it easier to apply it to the surface in a thin film.
Greetings
Georg
chinsettawong
Headphoneus Supremus
Don't worry too much about the uniformity of the glue film. This kind of glue is quite flexible and if you clamp your driver well, it shouldn't matter much.
I don't worry too much about it.
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
I don't worry too much about it.
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
Just (kind of) finished my valve energiser.
All four PCBs are fixed to an MDF base with front and back panels. I use insulating hard foam to mount the boards. It enables me to have a very firm fix, but also allows for easy removal for future work.....
Power socket on back panel and recessed phono sockets on front. I will also put a Stax pro socket on the front. (Waiting for the pins to arrive from Taiwan, which I read about in an earlier post).
The top will be matt black, as will be the front and back panels, with four sets of circlular vent holes, one above each of the valves and a series of three rows of vent holes at the back for the PSU.
I can now spend some time on panel building!
Muamp (David).
All four PCBs are fixed to an MDF base with front and back panels. I use insulating hard foam to mount the boards. It enables me to have a very firm fix, but also allows for easy removal for future work.....
Power socket on back panel and recessed phono sockets on front. I will also put a Stax pro socket on the front. (Waiting for the pins to arrive from Taiwan, which I read about in an earlier post).
The top will be matt black, as will be the front and back panels, with four sets of circlular vent holes, one above each of the valves and a series of three rows of vent holes at the back for the PSU.
I can now spend some time on panel building!
Muamp (David).
chinsettawong
Headphoneus Supremus
Hi David,
That's a nice looking amp. What tubes are you using?
Can't wait to see your finished amp.
Wachara C.
That's a nice looking amp. What tubes are you using?
Can't wait to see your finished amp.
Wachara C.
@ Wachara C.
I am still using the ECC83's and 5965's, a modified version on the TubeCAD design, November 1999.
I will, oneday build a similar cct with EL84's for the O/P tubes, but since this cct is so good, I don't see the need at the moment.
I will now spend some time on panel building, I have only had my CNC since last December, so now I want to do many FR4 PCB stators and spacers.
Are you using a T2...? can you tell me about it, what tubes and how it compares to to TubeCAD cct...
David (Muamp).
I am still using the ECC83's and 5965's, a modified version on the TubeCAD design, November 1999.
I will, oneday build a similar cct with EL84's for the O/P tubes, but since this cct is so good, I don't see the need at the moment.
I will now spend some time on panel building, I have only had my CNC since last December, so now I want to do many FR4 PCB stators and spacers.
Are you using a T2...? can you tell me about it, what tubes and how it compares to to TubeCAD cct...
David (Muamp).
GvTT
New Head-Fier
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Hello,
neat! I really like the idea of the hard foam!
Seams easier than bolting the board down, probably even the better support.
Tubecad is always a good source for information, curcuits, etc. John is also very helpful! If you do modifications/improvemtents to his circuits, please let him und us know!
Greetings
Georg
neat! I really like the idea of the hard foam!
Seams easier than bolting the board down, probably even the better support.
Tubecad is always a good source for information, curcuits, etc. John is also very helpful! If you do modifications/improvemtents to his circuits, please let him und us know!
Greetings
Georg
GvTT
New Head-Fier
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Hello,
I spent this weekend with my family and the workshop, milling my first set of stators.
The stators are drilled, they need the final trimming on the outside, but this will have to wait:
The stators are cut by hand from a 1mm FR4 plate.
Now on the machine. Starting the pattern with 1.6mm (progressing to 2.9mm)
The result: 4 drilled stators and 4 cut spacers. You can clearly see the regions with different whole sizes.
A nightmare to deburr. Does someone have a trick here? How do you clean up the edges?
Today I did just the drilling 1.6mm / 2.2mm / 2.6mm / 2.8mm and the hole for mounting (3.05mm).
Next step is the milling of the outer shape and the stators.
Greetings
Georg
I spent this weekend with my family and the workshop, milling my first set of stators.
The stators are drilled, they need the final trimming on the outside, but this will have to wait:
The stators are cut by hand from a 1mm FR4 plate.
Now on the machine. Starting the pattern with 1.6mm (progressing to 2.9mm)
The result: 4 drilled stators and 4 cut spacers. You can clearly see the regions with different whole sizes.
A nightmare to deburr. Does someone have a trick here? How do you clean up the edges?
Today I did just the drilling 1.6mm / 2.2mm / 2.6mm / 2.8mm and the hole for mounting (3.05mm).
Next step is the milling of the outer shape and the stators.
Greetings
Georg
chinsettawong
Headphoneus Supremus
Hi Georg,
Nice looking stator!
About deburring, I use sand paper. No special technique required.
Nice looking stator!
About deburring, I use sand paper. No special technique required.
chinsettawong
Headphoneus Supremus
Hi David,
That's interesting. What voltage are you running the amp at? How do you like its sound?
I don't use DIY T2 that often. But DIY T2 is so far the best among all the amps that I have - DIY T2, KGSSHV, KGST, eXStatA, TubeCAD amp, and SR007t. DIY T2 uses 4 of EL34 and 4 of 6DJ8. It has so much power that can drive all my headphones with ease. There is no comparison between TubeCAD amp and DIY T2. DIY T2 is way more supeior.
Wachara C.
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