[forge457]

hope this or the other works

 

[forge457]

as of now iv had my m565 for two 1/2 months an i can say im definitely pleased , after my initial buy that failed then was rma'ed my
replacement set has been great ,iv upgraded the cable to a shorter an more durable one from periapt which is very nice an some zmf

universal pads that are oval an bigger an far more comfortable then the original ones (they were ok just not for me) which did

actually help smooth out the treble an bring focus to the bass so much so to the point that i no longer use my eq for anything except

youtube videos just because of the variable quality of the content thats saying a lot about pads oh the pad dims

Outer Dimensions: 4.25" Diamater (108mm)

Ear cavity: 2.79 x 2.2 in (71 x 56 mm)

Thick angled side: 1" (25mm) Thin Angled Side: .79" (20mm)


____________________________________________________________________

my current equipment stack is

the
source - jds ol dac

eq - subjective 3 (almost never use now thanks to the pad upgrades)

amp - the jds atom (rarely turned past 12:00 on the dail)

 

[zoenphlux]

So I have been looking for an upgrade to my m50xs. I ordered he4xx, x2HRs, m1060c, and found a like new set of 565c for $128 on eBay. I had high expectations for all these from the reviews I read all over.

I’m still waiting for the HE4xx ($140 shipped), but so far I’m not that impressed with any of them but the m565c. I’ve done a lot of AB testing and the m1060c is cleaner and has a little more treble that I want, but it hurts to listen to it. Same for the x2s. They are clear but not what I was expecting. The m1060cs are way too big and heavy. After a lot of testing, I think the m565cs will be my pick. Once I get the he4xx in I’ll try some more.

I don’t have a proper amp I guess. I have a creative Omni 5.1, and a Fiio Mont Blonk. It seems to adjust the sound a bit and even causes distortion at higher volumes on a couple of these. I plan to get a Fiio K5 pro this Christmas. Either way, I wish the 565cs were a little clearer in the top end, but they don’t hurt me to listen to even loud. They don’t have the treble thrash the X2s and the 1060cs have on some music and I literally cringe. These 565cs are great, even off my iPhone 11.

 

[forge457]

id suggest based on my own experience an advice for others get a better amp depending on weither you want to go for balanced or unbalanced is up to you but id a starting point to be the jds atom & ol dac which i started with an is pretty good for most but not all depending on the ohms of your cans iv resently swaped my ol dac that just wasn't enough for me to a Topping D10 Desktop USB DAC Interface for under a 100$ on parts express thats with shipping which now i was id gone with first but thats just me you may differ ,plus i guess it depends on your bugdet ,iv got the m565 which i think are very good an after some zmf earpad upgrades (over an inch thick) with a more durable cable from periaptcables its now great my cousin got the m565c an after a listen i like them to he also let me try my m565 on his amp the

DROP + THX AAA™ 789 LINEAR AMPLIFIER for 400$ just a 100 over my bugdet but maybe not yours i now can say based on my own experience more

power is better ,im planing to get the SMSL SP200 THX Headphone Amp which accourding to audiosciencereview.com ther neck an neck but with the

SMSL SP200 a 100$ less ill update my profile to my experience with it when its in hand

my planed build an upgrade

SMSL SU-8 Version 2 DAC (Digital-to-Analog Converter
Peavey PV 215EQ Graphic Equalizer
SMSL SP200 THX Headphone Amp

an the monoprice m570



heres some amp an dac alternatives

Monolith 133304 Liquid Spark Headphone Amplifier-by Alex Cavalli with RCA Input, Single 1/4 Output 1.3Watt@50R, 108dB

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JW7NSX...olid=2MF33URKXBPVO&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it


____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________



MAGNI
HEADPHONE AMP AND PREAMP

https://www.schiit.com/products/magni-1

_________________________________________________________________


ASGARD
CONTINUITY™ MODULAR HEADPHONE AMP & PREAMP

https://www.schiit.com/products/asgard-1

_________________________________________________________


MODI
AFFORDABLE DO-ALL DACS

https://www.schiit.com/products/mod...epjPh7noP2SA7UsU_rTH7mXL4Idf9Wd4aAl4XEALw_wcB


______________________________________________________________________________________


xDuoo TA-20 Tube Amp

https://apos.audio/collections/brand-spotlight-xduoo/products/xduoo-ta-20-tube-amp

______________________________________________________________________________________


TOPPING D10 DAC (Digital-to-Analog Converter)


https://apos.audio/collections/dac-digital-to-analog-converter/products/topping-d10-dac

_____________________________________________________________________________________


just some picks based on some listenig to from friends gear

 

[forge457]

So I have been looking for an upgrade to my m50xs. I ordered he4xx, x2HRs, m1060c, and found a like new set of 565c for $128 on eBay. I had high expectations for all these from the reviews I read all over.

I’m still waiting for the HE4xx ($140 shipped), but so far I’m not that impressed with any of them but the m565c. I’ve done a lot of AB testing and the m1060c is cleaner and has a little more treble that I want, but it hurts to listen to it. Same for the x2s. They are clear but not what I was expecting. The m1060cs are way too big and heavy. After a lot of testing, I think the m565cs will be my pick. Once I get the he4xx in I’ll try some more.

I don’t have a proper amp I guess. I have a creative Omni 5.1, and a Fiio Mont Blonk. It seems to adjust the sound a bit and even causes distortion at higher volumes on a couple of these. I plan to get a Fiio K5 pro this Christmas. Either way, I wish the 565cs were a little clearer in the top end, but they don’t hurt me to listen to even loud. They don’t have the treble thrash the X2s and the 1060cs have on some music and I literally cringe. These 565cs are great, even off my iPhone 11.

id suggest based on my own experience an advice for others get a better amp depending on weither you want to go for balanced or unbalanced is up to you but id a starting point to be the jds atom & ol dac which i started with an is pretty good for most but not all depending on the ohms of your cans iv resently swaped my ol dac that just wasn't enough for me to a Topping D10 Desktop USB DAC Interface for under a 100$ on parts express thats with shipping which now i was id gone with first but thats just me you may differ ,plus i guess it depends on your bugdet ,iv got the m565 which i think are very good an after some zmf earpad upgrades (over an inch thick) with a more durable cable from periaptcables its now great my cousin got the m565c an after a listen i like them to he also let me try my m565 on his amp the

DROP + THX AAA™ 789 LINEAR AMPLIFIER for 400$ just a 100 over my bugdet but maybe not yours i now can say based on my own experience more

power is better ,im planing to get the SMSL SP200 THX Headphone Amp which accourding to audiosciencereview.com ther neck an neck but with the

SMSL SP200 a 100$ less ill update my profile to my experience with it when its in hand

my planed build an upgrade

SMSL SU-8 Version 2 DAC (Digital-to-Analog Converter
Peavey PV 215EQ Graphic Equalizer
SMSL SP200 THX Headphone Amp

an the monoprice m570



heres some amp an dac alternatives

Monolith 133304 Liquid Spark Headphone Amplifier-by Alex Cavalli with RCA Input, Single 1/4 Output 1.3Watt@50R, 108dB

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JW7NSX...olid=2MF33URKXBPVO&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it


____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________



MAGNI
HEADPHONE AMP AND PREAMP

https://www.schiit.com/products/magni-1

_________________________________________________________________


ASGARD
CONTINUITY™ MODULAR HEADPHONE AMP & PREAMP

https://www.schiit.com/products/asgard-1

_________________________________________________________


MODI
AFFORDABLE DO-ALL DACS

https://www.schiit.com/products/mod...epjPh7noP2SA7UsU_rTH7mXL4Idf9Wd4aAl4XEALw_wcB


______________________________________________________________________________________


xDuoo TA-20 Tube Amp

https://apos.audio/collections/brand-spotlight-xduoo/products/xduoo-ta-20-tube-amp

______________________________________________________________________________________


TOPPING D10 DAC (Digital-to-Analog Converter)


https://apos.audio/collections/dac-digital-to-analog-converter/products/topping-d10-dac

_____________________________________________________________________________________


just some picks based on some listenig to from friends gear

 

[Dawnrazor]

I put my modded 565s into my main rig and damn they rock. As modded super clear and open. Except for the small cup size and a bit less slam these give the modded m1060 a good run for the money. At 189 its best to step up the m1060 at $229 if you can but outside of the small cups on my ears, soundwise I could be very happy with these. They even sound great when listening to the grill side....

 

[germanium]

interesting....soundstage seems to get bigger, it gets brighter, of course...
but...the bass seems to dig deeper. I can FEEL the cups vibrating on certain tracks...it's a good thing, it's more visceral, it might be going down into Argon bass territory...very nice mod.

Removing the foam reduces the damping & this affects mostly the drum resonance that is usually around 200-300Hz depending on planar driver/. All planar drivers have this resonance to varying degrees, which is the heart of where much of the natural reverb occurs. You may also hear more of the bass overtones that can be present in deep bass but deep bass fundamentals will not be increased, in fact they will be reduced relative to midbass which may actually be increased due to the loss of damping. The reverb sound may be a little brighter but cymbals sound will be reduced relative to midrange with foam removed. Also brighter sound may be a result of reflections off of the flat metal piece behind driver even though perforated. This will likely affect the upper midrange sound I.E. upper overtones of female voices but not cymbals. Cymbal sound will be slightly reduced when foam is removed.

On my cheap Gold Planar GL400 I increases the damping as there was too much reverb & too little high frequencies. Increasing damping corrected this. Sound is a little dry now but much better balanced. Reverb in recordings are still there but in more correct balance. I will be receiving the GL600 headphones here soon. Hopefully these will even be better with excellent high frequencies to start with & require less damping to achieve best sound. Deep bass actually did improve slightly as damping reduces frequencies in the lower midrange down to the midbass region. Of coarse more Volume is required to reach same volume in the affected frequencies & deep bass is less affected by damping than midbass due to volume of air moved verses time at a given pressure. Lower frequency gives the driver more time to move a given amount of air which it can do at a lower pressure because of having more time to move a given amount of air. As such the driver is less restricted by damping at very low frequencies & since volume needs to be raised due to the damping effects on the lower midrange deep bass volume is raised as well.

 

[forge457]

Removing the foam reduces the damping & this affects mostly the drum resonance that is usually around 200-300Hz depending on planar driver/. All planar drivers have this resonance to varying degrees, which is the heart of where much of the natural reverb occurs. You may also hear more of the bass overtones that can be present in deep bass but deep bass fundamentals will not be increased, in fact they will be reduced relative to midbass which may actually be increased due to the loss of damping. The reverb sound may be a little brighter but cymbals sound will be reduced relative to midrange with foam removed. Also brighter sound may be a result of reflections off of the flat metal piece behind driver even though perforated. This will likely affect the upper midrange sound I.E. upper overtones of female voices but not cymbals. Cymbal sound will be slightly reduced when foam is removed.

On my cheap Gold Planar GL400 I increases the damping as there was too much reverb & too little high frequencies. Increasing damping corrected this. Sound is a little dry now but much better balanced. Reverb in recordings are still there but in more correct balance. I will be receiving the GL600 headphones here soon. Hopefully these will even be better with excellent high frequencies to start with & require less damping to achieve best sound. Deep bass actually did improve slightly as damping reduces frequencies in the lower midrange down to the midbass region. Of coarse more Volume is required to reach same volume in the affected frequencies & deep bass is less affected by damping than midbass due to volume of air moved verses time at a given pressure. Lower frequency gives the driver more time to move a given amount of air which it can do at a lower pressure because of having more time to move a given amount of air. As such the driver is less restricted by damping at very low frequencies & since volume needs to be raised due to the damping effects on the lower midrange deep bass volume is raised as well.

That sounds worth a try i might want to try that how did you mod the m570

do you have an steo by step instructions on how you did the modding

i dont want to screw up my set of m570

 

[germanium]

That sounds worth a try i might want to try that how did you mod the m570

do you have an steo by step instructions on how you did the modding

i dont want to screw up my set of m570

Unfortunately no I don't have the m570 nor the m565. They are a little out of my price range. These were just general observations that should apply to the m565 or many other magnetic planar headphones if they were to exhibit similar problems.

 

[forge457]

Unfortunately no I don't have the m570 nor the m565. They are a little out of my price range. These were just general observations that should apply to the m565 or many other magnetic planar headphones if they were to exhibit similar problems.

OH

 

[Dolamite]

@Cruelhand Luke Thank you for all the work you've done contributing to this thread! Very much appreciated. I'm getting ready to update the pads on my M565's and add some Blu-Tack. Now that you've done it all and lived with it a bit, how would you suggest I get started? Specifically, do you have recommendations on specific pads? Also, would you go heavy on the Blu-Tack like you did or lighten up a bit on the first pass? Thanks again!

 

[Cruelhand Luke]

@Cruelhand Luke Thank you for all the work you've done contributing to this thread! Very much appreciated. I'm getting ready to update the pads on my M565's and add some Blu-Tack. Now that you've done it all and lived with it a bit, how would you suggest I get started? Specifically, do you have recommendations on specific pads? Also, would you go heavy on the Blu-Tack like you did or lighten up a bit on the first pass? Thanks again!

Thanks for the question. Unfortunately I wound up selling these about a year ago. I decided to live on my boat full time and for a bunch of reasons I sold them to a friend...I regret it, I liked them, and I feel like they still had tuning potential (I would have liked to try other damping materials, in different positions and different pads as well)
I had the Monoprice velour pads on, and I really liked them, they were comfortable and I liked the way they sounded. I think there are other pads that would sound as good or better...I would go with a velour or microfiber, nothing too deep. You want something more open than leather, but not as open as a cloth pad or something fenestrated. So something like the Dekoni Elite Velour or Brainwavz microfiber would also work. You want a pad that moves the drivers away from your ears compared to stock, but not too far, like deeply angled pad will, for example,
As for damping....on the one hand you can damp the whole thing and see how you like it. Maybe you love the sound and you seal them back up and enjoy your awesome cans....or, you notice some things you don't like and you start paring back to tune it to your taste. On the other hand you can start with a little bit at a time and note how the sound changes.
I would normally say start small and tune it to your tastes, that's ALWAYS the path I take......
However 1) I already damped the hell out of it, and liked how it sounded, so you know that's probably a safe path to take. 2) the wires are very thin and easily detach, so every time you open them up and perform surgery you run the risk of breaking that connection and having to re-solder.
In this case I'd say go fairly liberal with the damping and hope you like the results the first time out and you don't have to go back in and adjust things. Also, consider using Silly Putty I used it recently in place of blu tac and it sounded better and molded better for that application...I never tried it on the M565, so I don't know how it would work, but it's worth considering as well.
I hope this helps, I look forward to seeing how yours turn out.

 

[theangelboy]

@Cruelhand Luke Thank you for all the work you've done contributing to this thread! Very much appreciated. I'm getting ready to update the pads on my M565's and add some Blu-Tack. Now that you've done it all and lived with it a bit, how would you suggest I get started? Specifically, do you have recommendations on specific pads? Also, would you go heavy on the Blu-Tack like you did or lighten up a bit on the first pass? Thanks again!

I would agree with mister Luke, the M565 definitely needs velour pads since it sounds pretty dark to begin with. Pleather and leather will hold too much bass in. I'm using velour ATH-M50 pads (not deep, oversized M50 aftermarket pads, but a velour version of their stock pad) on mine and they sound great. I found that when I used deeper pads and got really bad channel imbalance on the bass. Not sure why, and I've never had another headphone exhibit that behavior so that's probably some flaw on my set. But with shallower pads they sound great with good driver matching across the spectrum.

Besides the pads and removing the back foam, the only other thing I've done is add padding to the headband strap. I have been meaning to mass load the drivers with blue tack or modeling clay but I just can't be bothered since I really enjoy how they sound. Super smooth, warm, and relaxing.

So my general advice would be pick your pads first since those have the biggest impact on the sound and go from there. And only change one variable at a time. Otherwise, you won't know if the change is for the better or not. Happy modding!

 

[Dolamite]

@theangelboy @Cruelhand Luke

Thank you for your responses. I have some 30 MM velour pads on order from amazon (LTYIVABHTTW) and some blu tack as well. I don't want to open them up too many times as I haven't had the soldering iron out in a while. I may try some strategic application on one headset and more generous application on the other so that way I'm hopefully only opening one of them up a 2nd time to get the sound I like. Anyhow, I appreciate your responses and everything you both put into the threads. Thanks!

 

[germanium]

deleted