[VRacer-111]

Now, I'm not going to listen to it at the levels you were, but this is my take away from listening at above normal level for the TH-X00PH and Campfire Cascade (a little over 1/4 amp volume [9:00] with DAC output, windows slider, and Foobar slider @ 100%), and a little more above and beyond that for the M1060 which always requires more on the gain knob. Normally I'm at about 8:30 position on amp with Foobar slider @ -6dB or below 8:00 with Foobar slider @ 100%.

My amp is rated at a little over 1.5W with 25ohm load, a little over 2W with a 38ohm load (Cascades), and 2.7W with a 50ohm load.

Intensity/impact:
Modded TH-X00PH (by quite a bit, absolute head pounding, and rattling feeling like the space the music was in was tearing itself apart - insane] > Campfire Cascade > modded M1060

Clarity/detail:
Campfire Cascade > modded M1060 > modded TH-X00PH

They all sounded pretty much the same to me at the 'silent' 3:40 point... with the M1060 being the weakest sounding in subbass overall. Overall though, the Cascades are the best tuned to me - great intensity and fullness of sound with absolute clarity and detail.

The three amigos...

 

[NEXTLEVEL5]

The jotunheim pairs very well with the m1060 headphones.

 

[jj69]

Just got my first pair of m1060 last week during the $212 sale. I realize I'm a bit late to the party with these, so I've read the last 100 pages or so of this thread. I still have a few questions, however, so please bear with me.

My first impression of these with no mods and no burn in is rather disappointing. These have nowhere near the performance of the HE-400i, which now cost roughly the same, if not less. The m1060 are very warm and dark sounding - veiled as well, with really congested bass and mid-bass. The comparisons to the HD650 are certainly justified. However, I realize there may be plenty of potential for mods. I'm just wondering if modding these will make them sound less warm and veiled, or will this general sound signature remain even after extensive mods?

As for the mods, I'm a bit confused about which of the various mods discussed in this thread are still considered worth doing. For example, is the 3D modeled "fazor" mod considered an improvement on the "fuzzor" mod, or do some people prefer the fuzzor mod?

In fact, I'll list all the mods I'm aware of below with my questions:

[1] pad replacement - I'm fairly happy with the stock pads for comfort. I don't see any reason to invest $75 in new pads unless they would result significantly improved performance.

[2] fazor mod - I'm really confused about this. There are at least 8 different fazor design files available in the thread. Are some of these outdated? Which is considered the final design? It also appears that some people are adding fazors to both the front of the driver and the back of the driver. Are both fazors recommended, or are fazors on the inside only sufficient?

[3] fuzzor mod - Is this even worth doing or is the fazor mod the way to go?

[4] replace outer grill covers - Many posts here claim this mod makes the single biggest improvement. Exactly what improvement can I expect? Is a wider soundstage the only benefit of this mod, or will they also sound less warm?

Lastly, is significant disassembly of the headphones required to do any of these mods? Is disassembly complicated, or is it relatively simple? Is there a tutorial somewhere?

TIA

 

[theangelboy]

Just got my first pair of m1060 last week during the $212 sale. I realize I'm a bit late to the party with these, so I've read the last 100 pages or so of this thread. I still have a few questions, however, so please bear with me.

My first impression of these with no mods and no burn in is rather disappointing. These have nowhere near the performance of the HE-400i, which now cost roughly the same, if not less. The m1060 are very warm and dark sounding - veiled as well, with really congested bass and mid-bass. The comparisons to the HD650 are certainly justified. However, I realize there may be plenty of potential for mods. I'm just wondering if modding these will make them sound less warm and veiled, or will this general sound signature remain even after extensive mods?

As for the mods, I'm a bit confused about which of the various mods discussed in this thread are still considered worth doing. For example, is the 3D modeled "fazor" mod considered an improvement on the "fuzzor" mod, or do some people prefer the fuzzor mod?

In fact, I'll list all the mods I'm aware of below with my questions:

[1] pad replacement - I'm fairly happy with the stock pads for comfort. I don't see any reason to invest $75 in new pads unless they would result significantly improved performance.

[2] fazor mod - I'm really confused about this. There are at least 8 different fazor design files available in the thread. Are some of these outdated? Which is considered the final design? It also appears that some people are adding fazors to both the front of the driver and the back of the driver. Are both fazors recommended, or are fazors on the inside only sufficient?

[3] fuzzor mod - Is this even worth doing or is the fazor mod the way to go?

[4] replace outer grill covers - Many posts here claim this mod makes the single biggest improvement. Exactly what improvement can I expect? Is a wider soundstage the only benefit of this mod, or will they also sound less warm?

Lastly, is significant disassembly of the headphones required to do any of these mods? Is disassembly complicated, or is it relatively simple? Is there a tutorial somewhere?

TIA

I haven't done either fazzor or fuzzer mods to I can't comment on those but I will say that replacing the grills helped with clarity for me. That's one of the reasons for the paper towel mod was to bring up the treble a bit. But after I got the honeycomb grills I removed my paper towel circles. So I would suggest replacing the grill for sure. It should cost less than $10 and I didn't find that it did anything bad to the sound.

One other thing, what are you using to drive them? I found the easy to drive but rather amp picky with some sources sounding much worse than others.

A little burn in also couldn't hurt. I can't say for certain whether it will fix your issues or not since I got my set a long time ago and I don't remember how they changed but it's worth trying, I think. I hope that helps a bit.

P.S. Swapping grills is very easy and 100% reversable. It's just 4 little screws on each side. As long as you are careful and have right screwdriver it's a snap.

 

[jj69]

I haven't done either fazzor or fuzzer mods to I can't comment on those but I will say that replacing the grills helped with clarity for me...

So far, I've been driving them with a Fiio E07K desktop amp/dock with E17 DAC, and for portable a Rockboxed iBasso DX90 with a Breeze Audio E11 amp (1,000 mW @ 32 ohms).

I like that the grill mods are easily reversible. From whom can I order them, and what version should I get?

 

[theangelboy]

So far, I've been driving them with a Fiio E07K desktop amp/dock with E17 DAC, and for portable a Rockboxed iBasso DX90 with a Breeze Audio E11 amp (1,000 mW @ 32 ohms).

I like that the grill mods are easily reversible. From whom can I order them, and what version should I get?

I got mine done by @SomeTechNoob although I think @PockyG was also making them at one point. I loved the look of Vracer's honeycomb grill (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2492054) but PockyG also made a version with the Monolith M in it. https://makerware.thingiverse.com/thing:2501314
I doubt they sound very different so I would just go with whatever design you prefer.

 

[IBJamon]

The most guaranteed way to bring up the treble and get rid of the veil sound is to remove the felt from the back of the pads. This felt is directly in between the ear and the driver, so it's a pretty drastic change. But if you do this, realize that you will have to find a better way to make the pads stay in place, and you may want to darken them a bit - they are pretty bright that way. I did the fuzzor to tame them a bit afterwards, and that did help, but I still wouldn't mind a bit more bass after doing that mod. It's closer to what I wanted then stock, though. I did paper towel at first, but found them to sound too 'closed in' after doing that. If you don't mind the change being irreversible, the perfect sound may be attainable by poking a hole (maybe dime sized, maybe smaller?) in that thick felt, and making it larger as needed, but be careful - too large and you can't undo it, and it will be too bright and that's pretty much it then. I've thought about trying to find the 'just right' material to go in its place, but haven't found anything yet.

Good luck! I hope that helps.

Edit: Do not disassemble the driver. Several have destroyed their headphones in the attempt.

 

[PockyG]

Just got my first pair of m1060 last week during the $212 sale. I realize I'm a bit late to the party with these, so I've read the last 100 pages or so of this thread. I still have a few questions, however, so please bear with me.

My first impression of these with no mods and no burn in is rather disappointing. These have nowhere near the performance of the HE-400i, which now cost roughly the same, if not less. The m1060 are very warm and dark sounding - veiled as well, with really congested bass and mid-bass. The comparisons to the HD650 are certainly justified. However, I realize there may be plenty of potential for mods. I'm just wondering if modding these will make them sound less warm and veiled, or will this general sound signature remain even after extensive mods?

As for the mods, I'm a bit confused about which of the various mods discussed in this thread are still considered worth doing. For example, is the 3D modeled "fazor" mod considered an improvement on the "fuzzor" mod, or do some people prefer the fuzzor mod?

In fact, I'll list all the mods I'm aware of below with my questions:

[1] pad replacement - I'm fairly happy with the stock pads for comfort. I don't see any reason to invest $75 in new pads unless they would result significantly improved performance.

[2] fazor mod - I'm really confused about this. There are at least 8 different fazor design files available in the thread. Are some of these outdated? Which is considered the final design? It also appears that some people are adding fazors to both the front of the driver and the back of the driver. Are both fazors recommended, or are fazors on the inside only sufficient?

[3] fuzzor mod - Is this even worth doing or is the fazor mod the way to go?

[4] replace outer grill covers - Many posts here claim this mod makes the single biggest improvement. Exactly what improvement can I expect? Is a wider soundstage the only benefit of this mod, or will they also sound less warm?

Lastly, is significant disassembly of the headphones required to do any of these mods? Is disassembly complicated, or is it relatively simple? Is there a tutorial somewhere?

TIA

1. I'm still using stock pads as well. I like them a lot. Very plush. Tried the ZMF universe suedes. Not a big fan, at least on these headphones. Tried a bunch of other pads just for fun but I always end up back to stock pads.

2. Fazor mod is a little weird to me personally, they do "something" but I have a hard time describing it. It seems to clean up the sound a bit? I'd just skip the rear fazors as they don't seem to do anything for me. Personally I like the RF1060 Mk3 the best. You can mount pads on them like ZMF Eikon, Brainwavz XL round and if you can find them, Audeze.

3. Personally, I found that the fuzzor mod on the rear of the driver helped with some of the treble harshness. My personal preference is that I wouldn't want more treble than stock but I'm kind of a wimp when it comes to elevated treble.

4. The grill swap is the best and easiest mod to do. Massive soundstage and seems to clean up the treble. Pick any of them, as long as it's not stock. You'll get the idea of what they'll do if you temporarily take off the stock grill, just leave on the foam to protect your drivers.

These headphones are all about experimentation so have fun Just don't go disassembling the driver as @IBJamon said.

 

[NEXTLEVEL5]

I have the honeycomb mod and it is a worthwhile upgrade for cheap. Just opens things up a little plus they look great.

 

[ranterbach]

-snip-

Apologies if I missed it, can I get some info on that headband mod? That's my number one complaint with 1060, I'd love to fix it somehow.

 

[IBJamon]

I got this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B012MAO7WW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not a perfect fit, but it does work and it's massively more comfortable.

 

[DavidA]

Just got my first pair of m1060 last week during the $212 sale. I realize I'm a bit late to the party with these, so I've read the last 100 pages or so of this thread. I still have a few questions, however, so please bear with me.

My first impression of these with no mods and no burn in is rather disappointing. These have nowhere near the performance of the HE-400i, which now cost roughly the same, if not less. The m1060 are very warm and dark sounding - veiled as well, with really congested bass and mid-bass. The comparisons to the HD650 are certainly justified. However, I realize there may be plenty of potential for mods. I'm just wondering if modding these will make them sound less warm and veiled, or will this general sound signature remain even after extensive mods?

As for the mods, I'm a bit confused about which of the various mods discussed in this thread are still considered worth doing. For example, is the 3D modeled "fazor" mod considered an improvement on the "fuzzor" mod, or do some people prefer the fuzzor mod?

In fact, I'll list all the mods I'm aware of below with my questions:

[1] pad replacement - I'm fairly happy with the stock pads for comfort. I don't see any reason to invest $75 in new pads unless they would result significantly improved performance.

[2] fazor mod - I'm really confused about this. There are at least 8 different fazor design files available in the thread. Are some of these outdated? Which is considered the final design? It also appears that some people are adding fazors to both the front of the driver and the back of the driver. Are both fazors recommended, or are fazors on the inside only sufficient?

[3] fuzzor mod - Is this even worth doing or is the fazor mod the way to go?

[4] replace outer grill covers - Many posts here claim this mod makes the single biggest improvement. Exactly what improvement can I expect? Is a wider soundstage the only benefit of this mod, or will they also sound less warm?

Lastly, is significant disassembly of the headphones required to do any of these mods? Is disassembly complicated, or is it relatively simple? Is there a tutorial somewhere?

TIA

I was like you and felt that the M1060 was a bit boring and veiled but both of the ones that I heard were stock so YMMV with doing mods. How the HD650 sounds is a bit more amp dependent that the M1060 IMO and I'd never consider my HD650 to sound even close to that of the stock M1060 but as others on this thread have pointed out it might be due to my lower listening levels and something which the M1060 is not good at. For a slight bit more ($300 IIRC) the HE560 are available and even with the QC issue of broken headbands (which is replaced for free) I think they are a much better deal since you will not have to do any mods

 

[Kulgrinda]

Just got my first pair of m1060 last week during the $212 sale. I realize I'm a bit late to the party with these, so I've read the last 100 pages or so of this thread. I still have a few questions, however, so please bear with me.

My first impression of these with no mods and no burn in is rather disappointing. These have nowhere near the performance of the HE-400i, which now cost roughly the same, if not less. The m1060 are very warm and dark sounding - veiled as well, with really congested bass and mid-bass. The comparisons to the HD650 are certainly justified. However, I realize there may be plenty of potential for mods. I'm just wondering if modding these will make them sound less warm and veiled, or will this general sound signature remain even after extensive mods?

As for the mods, I'm a bit confused about which of the various mods discussed in this thread are still considered worth doing. For example, is the 3D modeled "fazor" mod considered an improvement on the "fuzzor" mod, or do some people prefer the fuzzor mod?

In fact, I'll list all the mods I'm aware of below with my questions:

[1] pad replacement - I'm fairly happy with the stock pads for comfort. I don't see any reason to invest $75 in new pads unless they would result significantly improved performance.

[2] fazor mod - I'm really confused about this. There are at least 8 different fazor design files available in the thread. Are some of these outdated? Which is considered the final design? It also appears that some people are adding fazors to both the front of the driver and the back of the driver. Are both fazors recommended, or are fazors on the inside only sufficient?

[3] fuzzor mod - Is this even worth doing or is the fazor mod the way to go?

[4] replace outer grill covers - Many posts here claim this mod makes the single biggest improvement. Exactly what improvement can I expect? Is a wider soundstage the only benefit of this mod, or will they also sound less warm?

Lastly, is significant disassembly of the headphones required to do any of these mods? Is disassembly complicated, or is it relatively simple? Is there a tutorial somewhere?

TIA

Hi,
I can list mods that I've reversed and the ones that remain. So I reversed:
- rear driver 3D printer fazzor - made highs a bit too much pronounced
- driver side fuzzor (felt strips) mod - I did not manage to cut peaces in identical sizes and It made sound a bit off.

Mods I've left:
- rear driver fuzzor mod - seems to tame annoying highs a bit
- driver side 3D printed fazzor - made sound much cleaner and "correct"
- rear grills (honeycomb) with foam disc removed and some acoustic material stuck to keep away dust - as mentioned before this mod made the most significant improvement in the sound quality - sound stage, instrument separation. However some people claimed removing foam inserts made headphones "ring" more. Might be true, might be hearing problems - there sounds best when listening aloud and it could easily damage hearing.
- 3 felt strips inside the pad ear cavity - this also helped with cleaning sound, less reflections from the inner walls (pads are quite deep). Later I ordered custom made pads, but mainly because I wanted to, not that there was something wrong with the stock ones. Well, except the fact they are not real leather.
- upgraded cable - again one of the most significant improvements. Latest cable I made was 22 awg SPC / OCC litz hybrid.

That must be it. I like the huge, fast and articulate sound of these headphones. However as noted before they sound best when playing loud and I do not like to listen loud, so these are not my everyday headphones. Just a side project

Ps. do not judge sound before you have played at least 100 hours.

 

[fpantalone]

I owned one of the very first 1060's to be released. I loved them, but they virtually fell apart on me and sent them back for replacement. That set sounded quite different (same amp) and I started modding as I loved the amount of planar bass impact. First planars for me. They had the dreaded 'ringing' which I treated with the DMS3 TV ear side fuzzor mod. Didn't seem quite enough, so I played with putting the creatology strips on the cup walls. It worked for me, I put it out there, and it seems some others like it as well. I've replaced the pads with sheepskin and kept the strips. I can't remember the brand but I 'think' it was off of Alibaba, and around 35-40 euro. The felt on these work better for me than the thick felt on the stock pads. I was early in, and before I settled on the sheepskin, I had tried the Vegans. I sold them off as they sucked out too much of the high end for my liking. After adding the 'some tech noob' honeycomb grills, and many hours on them, I use them a fair amount. Best cans I own for hard hitting funk. I don't find them all that fussy, but I use a mojo pretty well exclusively with them. Works nicely. Better than the Asgard 2 for me. Not sure if any of this helps, as it is such a personal thing because we all hear so differently. That said, if there ARE certain attributes that a majority can find in common, it's the best we can hope for

 

[omegaorgun]

Dekoni Audeze pads $39.99 for a vegan alternative.

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/dekoni-pads-for-audeze-lcd-series#description